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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have it, it works fine. I have no experience with other dust collectors so I don't really know what if anything I'm missing out on. I remember the assembly being a bit frustrating; I think there were some very similarly-shaped bolts/screws, and some kind of fiddly bits that were tricky to hold in place while getting the connectors connected. But it's held up well through a few years of intermittent use. Groovy. Anticipating making it a 2-stage and having it live on the 2-car side of the garage with the piping coming through the wall to my shop, where space is a premium. Getting tired of emptying the shop vac after each hour of routing/dadoing. I should investigate how big a pain in the rear end it would be to make fireplace “logs” from the chips/dust.
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# ? May 26, 2020 15:42 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 07:28 |
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Can you use an old engine block and hydraulic press to make large wood pellets?
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# ? May 26, 2020 15:52 |
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Hasselblad posted:Speaking of dust collectors, has anyone experience with the harbor freight 2hp model? The only thing I can tell you about this one is it's a white labelled chinese import; I saw it show up under half a dozen different brands when I went looking recently. So it's absolute bargain basement, but with an advantage that you can just buy whichever version is cheaper near you.
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# ? May 26, 2020 15:57 |
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I finally moved into a house with a garage and get to spread my tools out - for a long time I've been using a shop vac hooked up to a dust deputy and running a hose from that from tool to tool which works fine, but I also have a table saw connected to a 3/4" hp harbor freight single bag collector and it doesn't really seem to collect very well - when I'm ripping something there's plenty of saw dust getting thrown off the blade and it doesn't seem to pull much down through the plate. Do I need to look into getting some rubber to seal the cabinet up a bit more? Or look at a blade guard that has a collector in it?
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# ? May 26, 2020 16:35 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:The only thing I can tell you about this one is it's a white labelled chinese import; I saw it show up under half a dozen different brands when I went looking recently. So it's absolute bargain basement, but with an advantage that you can just buy whichever version is cheaper near you. Well, the reviews seem to indicate that it is identical to a comparable Jet and Shop Fox. Who manufactures those ones?
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# ? May 26, 2020 17:38 |
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Hasselblad posted:Well, the reviews seem to indicate that it is identical to a comparable Jet and Shop Fox. Who manufactures those ones? Not sure, I was looking in the UK, I just recognise the machine.
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# ? May 26, 2020 21:25 |
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Shenzen Dust Collective Factory “Red October” I have 2 of the HF ones. They’re fine but nothing stellar. Good for the money, IMO.
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# ? May 26, 2020 21:36 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Shenzen Dust Collective Factory “Red October” I mean, there are not many variations on the design that would be "better" (beyond one of those tornado 2-stage thingies). At the end of the day it is just a vacuum fan and separator. That said, I will ultimately do a 2-stage mod on it. As long as it has the suck and the HP, and doesn't fall on me and crush me, should be good I suppose.
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# ? May 26, 2020 22:21 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Holy moly I finally finished my Bill Pentz dust collector cyclone build. It only took three years (I kept loosing interest and did other things). fwiw, my Grizzly cyclone does this (to some degree) as welll. Everything tends to drop out once I close a blast gate on my way to the next tool. If it's more than about 80% full, it'll pick up some heavier stuff off the top and swirl it around as soon as I open the next blast gate.
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# ? May 26, 2020 22:33 |
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The money in dust collection is the filter. All the cheapos don't have one and just use a cotton bag as the "filter" which works well enough for most applications. The price difference is just in the name IMO, I doubt one motor is better than another. Nice thing is the bags are easily found as they all use the same size. While we are talking dust collection. I have finally gotten around to start running mine. I have open rafters in my garage so I ran PVC above with drops down on two walls and in the center for table saw. Planer (and planned jointer) are flex run along garage door floor. This is all a work in progress and just duct tape sealed while I decide if I like where things are. The wall with the bandsaw and floor sweep I am still building out, I have since changed one of the lovely flex hose connectors for a printed coupling. I am currently building a miter station along back wall and will continue the run from above the lathe to it. Still a lot more to do on it and will probably change it to a 2 stage eventually but its a start. Quick RF relay powering an outlet for the dust collector, this is a must have upgrade if you ask me.
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# ? May 26, 2020 22:39 |
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Are those boards in the background starting to sag? JEEVES420 posted:Quick RF relay powering an outlet for the dust collector, this is a must have upgrade if you ask me.
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# ? May 26, 2020 22:54 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:Are those boards in the background starting to sag? Those 4/4 rough cut birch boards were delivered that way with a bunch of birch plywood. They flattened back out for the most part and then running them through the planer took care of the rest. Made these shaker doors with some.
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# ? May 26, 2020 23:52 |
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JEEVES420 posted:Those 4/4 rough cut birch boards were delivered that way with a bunch of birch plywood. They flattened back out for the most part and then running them through the planer took care of the rest. Made these shaker doors with some. I like that color a lot. Is there any way to work with laminate and contact cement that isn't unpleasant and messy?
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# ? May 27, 2020 01:20 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I like that color a lot. Big open workspace is a must. Warm weather is a must. Water based has gotten pretty respectable. If you're doing a big flat surface, use slats to position. Or even a wall piece, <aside> gently caress you, Lonnie, you know-it-all idiot, you should have listened to me! I kinda hate that I know a lot about plastic laminate, but back in the day before granite tops were a thing....
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# ? May 27, 2020 19:01 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:Big open workspace is a must. Warm weather is a must. Water based has gotten pretty respectable. If you're doing a big flat surface, use slats to position. I have warm weather, I have a big workspace. I still hate it How do you get nice clean straight cuts without it chipping out everywhere?
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# ? May 27, 2020 19:13 |
Score the surfaces before you cut.
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# ? May 27, 2020 19:59 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I have warm weather, I have a big workspace. I still hate it How do you get nice clean straight cuts without it chipping out everywhere? Que? Fine tooth blade on table saw with a special fence that it won't slip under and push slow. You do cut oversize to rout finished, yes? This is the key. Cut an inch oversize all round. And this is especially an area where router trimmer bits get glue and gunk in the bearing and want to burn and gently caress up an edge. nielsm posted:Score the surfaces before you cut. No.
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# ? May 27, 2020 20:05 |
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Is there any reason I can't or shouldn't build my bar top out of plywood like this (cutaways shown for clarity): This would limit my cost to just one nice sheet of 3/4 ply and one cheap one, plus some hardwood for the trim. Since it's more than 8' long that leaves me with a butt joint (in addition to the miter joint). Is there a better way? The only connection point to the frame is the 3.5" of horizontal stud, and most of the top would be hanging over the one side, so I'm assuming I'll also need some counter supports so it doesn't sag or break off? Or would the 1.5" of plywood plus the fact that it's an L on one side be enough?
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# ? May 27, 2020 21:50 |
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Mr. Mambold posted:Big open workspace is a must. Warm weather is a must. Water based has gotten pretty respectable. If you're doing a big flat surface, use slats to position. We used a lot of Formica at Sunseeker and I get very familiar with sticking that poo poo to curved panels. Wooden batons and going slowly is the only way to do it right.
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# ? May 28, 2020 21:10 |
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Neat idea for remembering about wood movement and humidity http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/05/30/watch-the-wood-move/
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# ? May 31, 2020 14:46 |
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coathat posted:Neat idea for remembering about wood movement and humidity http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/05/30/watch-the-wood-move/ I'm so into this, definitely going to make something like it. Is this a kinetic sculpture?
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# ? May 31, 2020 16:40 |
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Something totally different than the normal content in this thread, but I've stumbled across this Youtube channel of a guy called Leo and he's restoring a 110 year old sailboat. And by restoring I mean practically rebuilding. He started in 2017 and is still working on it. He does most of the work himself and the video's are super interesting. I don't know a thing about boats, but he explains what he's doing, the editing an music are pretty good and the dude really knows his stuff. Since it's a wooden boat, there's a ton of woodworking in the videos obviously. There was also a video (number 20 in the playlist I believe) where he went to a sawmill in the deep South and got a ton of live oak milled on probably the sketchiest mill in the world. It was great, the owner of that sawmill is treasure. Oh, and the boat's name is Tally Ho! Check it out!
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# ? May 31, 2020 21:37 |
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Been watching the Tally Ho build for quite awhile he has a cool parrot that hangs around sometimes too I liked the parts where he was scarf jointing that gently caress-off huge piece of purple heart for the keel. There's another channel like the Tally Ho build if you're interested in that sort of thing. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAiDWnTP0WB1xCp6uuUo0VA It's 2 guys building a similar large wooden sailing boat from the ground up. They end up buying another boat part way into it but that's mostly just to recycle the metal bits. The later videos they have a huge old vintage planer being run by an old Buick motor or something. Thumposaurus fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jun 1, 2020 |
# ? Jun 1, 2020 14:26 |
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coathat posted:Neat idea for remembering about wood movement and humidity http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/05/30/watch-the-wood-move/ In that book Understanding Wood, I believe he has instructions for making one that actually curls up/down to show the movement. It's pretty neat
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 15:48 |
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Just got a new Stanley Bailey low-angle block plane and I'm trying to set it up. The iron wasn't aligned laterally, so I tried to fix that -- turns out the top of the base isn't flat at the mouth, like it's ~.5 mm thicker on one side than the other: Without iron: With iron: Should I just return it? I don't see how I could get this aligned flat without grinding out the base, which I don't want to do
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 17:52 |
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shut up blegum posted:
Yeah, thanks for ruining my afternoon. Also, I later realized that I'm already semi following his new Youtube channel. Took me a while to recognize the boat! It was only when he decided to replace the keel that it dawned on me.
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 18:27 |
more falafel please posted:Just got a new Stanley Bailey low-angle block plane and I'm trying to set it up. The iron wasn't aligned laterally, so I tried to fix that -- turns out the top of the base isn't flat at the mouth, like it's ~.5 mm thicker on one side than the other: That's awful, ask for refund ASAP and maybe look into buying a much older Stanley or spend more $ for a Veritas or Lee Nielsen etc.
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 19:45 |
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more falafel please posted:Just got a new Stanley Bailey low-angle block plane and I'm trying to set it up. The iron wasn't aligned laterally, so I tried to fix that -- turns out the top of the base isn't flat at the mouth, like it's ~.5 mm thicker on one side than the other: You could probably use a file to flatten/even out the frog area, but don't waste your time, return it! The Veritas DX60 is a nice block plane that makes me smile every time I use it.
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 19:53 |
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Been watching the Tally Ho build from the start, I think SV seeker maybe mentioned it. Leo should make keyfobs or something out of scraps of the live oak as merch.
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 19:56 |
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I'm glad you guys like the Tally Ho stuff. I've been bingewatching it the past few days, I'm on episode 29 now I think? It was great to watch the first new frame get installed. And watching him scale up to plans to 1:1 scale was also crazy, the dude must have the patience of a saint.
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 21:40 |
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The amount of hard physical labour that he does on his own is amazing. I've done manual labour before, but nothing on that scale.
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 21:45 |
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There's that other boat hand-building show, the one where the guy has some side gig with the navy or something, I think it's called NCIS?
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 22:30 |
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I assumed everyone here watched Acorn to Arabella and tally ho as a matter of course. Leo is a trained shipwright and my kids love watching him and Poncho.
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# ? Jun 1, 2020 22:39 |
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shut up blegum posted:Something totally different than the normal content in this thread, but I've stumbled across this Youtube channel of a guy called Leo and he's restoring a 110 year old sailboat. And by restoring I mean practically rebuilding. Thanks for sharing this-I didn't know about it! That sawyer reminds me of the guy I used to get sinker cypress from right down to the accent. Live oak is wonderful/terrible wood and I live under a live oak tree-they are very dear to my heart. It is incredibly dense, and in many ways is almost more like a tropical hardwood than most oaks-interlocked grain, super strong and dense and rot resistant and heavy af. It often has a really pretty, ropy/curly figure too it (again, like a tropical hardwood), but also sometimes has a funny greenish tint to the wood, but it can really be pretty and I'd love to do more with it: It's hard to dry, has tons of difficult reaction wood and the same interlocked grain that gives it such strength and resistance to splitting makes it tear out like crazy when planed. It grows short and wide instead of tall and straight, and is basically a lumberman's nightmare and shipwright's dream, and I've enjoyed making a few odd little things out of it. We used alot for firewood at my old shop and it just....doesn't....split. The maul literally bounces off, but it turns nicely into mallets. ImplicitAssembler posted:The amount of hard physical labour that he does on his own is amazing.
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# ? Jun 2, 2020 02:25 |
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Any free or cheap programs it there that helps you draw out woodworking plans?
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# ? Jun 2, 2020 03:15 |
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Any free or cheap programs it there that helps you draw out woodworking plans? Sketchup is pretty good for woodworking And Steve Ramsey just did a tutorial on it sometime between the beginning of the quarantine and now
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# ? Jun 2, 2020 04:21 |
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I haven't done diddly squat with that Chinese elm slab in months, but I did finally do some scribbling in Inkscape to try to come up with a leg form I liked. The green lines are the proposed shape: four legs in an X shape, connected to a central "pillar" that slots into the underside of the slab. The rectangles with white outlines are what that shape would be cut out of (probably built up out of two 4/4 boards each). The turquoise line is 24" below the top of the slab. What's bugging me is figuring out how to do the joinery connecting the central pillar to the four legs. The legs are splayed at an angle, with different angles for the left side than for the right side. Meanwhile the central pillar's grain runs straight up and down. Does that angle mean that just gluing them is out of the question? It's not a particularly sharp angle, but it still feels like it'd be an end grain to long grain glue-up, which isn't exactly great. Very roughly I'm talking about a setup like this, looking top-down: Bolts would probably work well, at the cost of being visible. I guess I could hide the bolt heads / nuts with removable panels, but I feel like that would screw with the lines of the piece. Captive nuts in the legs, which are used by long bolts that go up through the bottom of the pillar, might be a possibility, but I'm not sure how I'd line things up so each leg fits into the pillar with enough overlap for a bolt without interfering with any of the other legs. As for the actual shaping, I figure that I'll get the thing made solid out of rectangular boards, then mark the shape I want, rough it in with the bandsaw, and then use a Shinto rasp to round things off and get the shape right. Then a fuckton of sanding.
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# ? Jun 2, 2020 04:55 |
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more falafel please posted:Just got a new Stanley Bailey low-angle block plane and I'm trying to set it up. The iron wasn't aligned laterally, so I tried to fix that -- turns out the top of the base isn't flat at the mouth, like it's ~.5 mm thicker on one side than the other: Your mistake was buying a new Stanley. They're just badly designed anchors.
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# ? Jun 2, 2020 08:26 |
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Dowels instead of bolts?
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# ? Jun 2, 2020 08:47 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 07:28 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:Your mistake was buying a new Stanley. They're just badly designed anchors. This is the thing, the reviews I read of the new sweetheart and Bailey line suggested that they were Pretty Good for mid/entry level, respectively. This is like, egregiously bad though, right? I'm not making up that this is a pile of iron that's literally unusable unless you're willing to file cast iron down to appropriate tolerances?
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# ? Jun 2, 2020 09:04 |