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I spend a lot of time looking at this guy https://instagram.com/flameonminiatures?igshid=18v0whvlo5itt He seems to lay down big chunks of the darkest and lightest colours and blend toward the middle? He’s been painting minis for 13 years, so don’t let his utter mastery get you down.
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May 26, 2020 23:08
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Torquemada posted:I spend a lot of time looking at this guy https://instagram.com/flameonminiatures?igshid=18v0whvlo5itt That's how I've seen it done, yeah. This guy shows it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFJCNr0CxpI
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May 26, 2020 23:12
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painting chaos knights after fully assembling them because you're a dumbass who doesn't think is rough
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May 26, 2020 23:18
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No. 1 Apartheid Fan posted:painting chaos knights after fully assembling them because you're a dumbass who doesn't think is rough if it's the AOS slaves to darkness ones, i don't think there's actually any way to paint them other than fully assembled, they are broken up in the literal worst possible way
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May 26, 2020 23:36
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Meeple posted:
Your transitions are too gradual if you're trying to do polished metal. Long transitions indicate burnished or beaten metal, but then reflect light differently. Try this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbcwG6wUuQc
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May 26, 2020 23:39
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cross post from the Hams for Hunger ThreadWerix posted:Okay, I'll get in on this. Here are 12 Rubric marines, so basically two five man squads. Why 12? I got two ten man squads for xmas/birthday, painted eight for kill team early this year, and finished the remaining 12 over the holiday weekend
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May 27, 2020 01:54
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Meeple posted:I've been working on my first real attempt at NMM gold, and would appreciate some critique - not sure if I'm not quite getting it, or if I've just been staring at the drat thing until my eyes go funny. If you want shiny gold, then I dont think you have enough brighter yellow in there and needs some areas of pure white.
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May 27, 2020 02:11
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Meeple posted:I've been working on my first real attempt at NMM gold, and would appreciate some critique - not sure if I'm not quite getting it, or if I've just been staring at the drat thing until my eyes go funny. You mainly need some brighter brights. They don't have to take up a lot of space but they have to be present. You also need some brighter, sharper edge highlights on areas like the ridges and eyeholes of the helmet or that "necklace" detail. For small details like the eyeholes you can just highlight the bottom edge, where they'd be catching the light. I don't know if it's an intentional choice or just a wip thing but the left pec being darker than the right isn't really working for me, I'd suggest painting them the same and working on more complex NMM schemes once you've got some more experience with it. IMO it looks good so far, just incomplete.
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May 27, 2020 02:41
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Thanks for the advice all, there's some really useful videos in there and much better colour palettes. I will report back with version 2 when I get some more painting time (and this time I won't use the GW stock photo for a lighting reference).
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May 27, 2020 10:32
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It's safe to assume that I need to wash Victoria Miniatures models right? The fact they don't feel as glossy as FW resin models is throwing me off a bit and I can't seem to find any mentions on the website that I do need to clean any residue off them.
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May 27, 2020 11:04
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Cooked Auto posted:It's safe to assume that I need to wash Victoria Miniatures models right? The fact they don't feel as glossy as FW resin models is throwing me off a bit and I can't seem to find any mentions on the website that I do need to clean any residue off them. A dip in soapy water should be fine. I might have given the batch I got a quick once over with a sudsy toothbrush too, but can't remember.
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May 27, 2020 11:58
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Cooked Auto posted:It's safe to assume that I need to wash Victoria Miniatures models right? The fact they don't feel as glossy as FW resin models is throwing me off a bit and I can't seem to find any mentions on the website that I do need to clean any residue off them. Look at it this way; If they dont need washed, a quick wash still wouldnt hurt them, and better than not doing it and it turns out they need it.
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May 27, 2020 12:11
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SiKboy posted:Look at it this way; If they dont need washed, a quick wash still wouldnt hurt them, and better than not doing it and it turns out they need it. This is very true yes. 
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May 27, 2020 12:58
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This isn't paint related, per say, but has anyone used any of the larger online 3D printing services, like Protolabs, MakeXYZ, or 3D Hubs before? I'm looking for someone or a company to print some 75mm figures in SLA, but afraid to take the plunge. I'm not really interested in building my own setup, but worry about company pricing and quality from one of these services.I've purchased bits from Shapeways before and been disappointed in the quality to cost. They usually work out fine in the end, but at 75mm scale, I don't think their standard quality is going to cut it.
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May 27, 2020 16:13
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Necron lumpy boy. 
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May 27, 2020 16:26
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Crossposting from the Hams for Hunger thread FInished 1x Ogre Butcher, 3x Ogre Gluttons and 2x Leadbelchers. Just got a light box and am looking forward to actually taking decent photos but even just a quick cell phone pic is much better with this light. The Leadbelchers I did the other week and posted but I finally got the basing done. Its really fun trying new skin tones. The Butcher was a miserable kit. Finecast with huge gaps. The slab of meat on the hip is because on the front it looks like the pants dont match up on the front and back of the model. The official photos put something over it to cover it up.
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May 27, 2020 16:45
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Painted some more Infinity stuff. Tried a bunch of new stuff that didn't work, Really struggled with the skin and leather. Wanted this to turn out better, but they can't all be winners.      
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May 27, 2020 22:34
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Those still look pretty awesome to me!
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May 28, 2020 00:03
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Mugaaz posted:Painted some more Infinity stuff. Tried a bunch of new stuff that didn't work, Really struggled with the skin and leather. Wanted this to turn out better, but they can't all be winners. These look incredible, my friend! What components of the model are you not happy with and what tutorials/techniques can you use to do better next time?
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May 28, 2020 14:20
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I think they look great too - I love the aesthetic. Idk what you would call it. “comic book style”? It looks really good to me though
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May 28, 2020 14:40
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:These look incredible, my friend! I'm pretty happy with the weapons and armor sections. The leather and the skin drove me nuts. I found some guides on leather, but it never came out looking right. The red skin was tough because a lot of the normal ways to shade and highlight red ended up making it look like not skin. I think I learned a method that works by highlighting up light pink and then white, then reglazing the area in red after. Didn't figure that out until very late though and didn't have the stomach to redo the skin. I think there is a better way to do the hair, but I didn't discover it until after I was finished.
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May 28, 2020 16:40
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I need a little basing advice, and I hope this is the right place for it. I'm working on a Deep Cuts Gargantuan White Dragon, and I need to come up with something for the base to help hide the hideous flight stand mounting point.  I could do some rocks with green stuff and then cover over some of it near the flight stand with Woodland Scenics water effects to make an ice effect and blend the flight stand into the base a little better, but I'm not sure a white dragon on a white base is especially visually interesting. This is complicated because this jerk is really badly centered on his own base. He's so badly centered that I'm tempted to make a magnetized mounting point for one or more reaper cultists so they can "chill" on the dragon's base and make it a little less stupid. That would let me splash on a little color, but I'm not sure it's necessarily a good idea.  What do you think?
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May 28, 2020 23:12
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First off, some more terrain on the base would help with the balance issues. Some nice heavy rocks, or even some lead weights hidden under terrain stuff, would probably work even better than the relatively light-weight Bones cultists. Second, a wintry base doesn't just have to be ice and snow. Some, sure, but you can also have bits of evergreen vegetation. Some needly shrubs with maybe a little snow would go a long way to selling the effect. Obsidian rocks or colorful sand breaking out of the snow could also give some visual interest. For something a little higher effort, a hot spring surrounded by snow could look really rad, though you want to be careful not to take the focus off the dragon. Finally, can you take the flight base out entirely? I take it that the dragon's tail can't hold its weight? If it's possible, you may be able to reinforce that with a wire, though that likely requires more tearing apart and repairing the mini than you want to do. Alternately, you may be able to rig up a less distracting flight base. This could be as simple as a tree that rises up next to the dragon (with a strong wire hidden in the branches) or something really high-effort like something the dragon is lifting off the ground with its feet.
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May 29, 2020 00:08
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A small hoard, carcass/skeleton, or nest could all fit in the center, balance the composition a bit, and be thematically appropriate.
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May 29, 2020 00:47
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Dienes posted:A small hoard, carcass/skeleton, or nest could all fit in the center, balance the composition a bit, and be thematically appropriate. I've got a looted hoard under my red dragon, and my in-progress green dragon's got the skeleton (and water feature covered). I'm probably getting too caught up in trying to make the white dragon's base unique when I just need to make sure it looks good. The dragons in the setting I'm working on aren't necessarily hostile, and since this is the only one that isn't obviously angry (or yelling at some kids to get off his lawn) I wanted to add a magical element. I'd already rejected books because the setting is pre-paper and since I had the cultists on hand, that jumped out at me as an option. If JackMann hadn't mentioned rocks I never would've thought about doing magical stone tablets, so now I'm thinking a magic circle carved into the floor would let me use a nice contrasting color or even a ground-sourced light effect and it'd be pretty easy to attach some floating stone tablets to the flight stand. Thank you for letting me bounce a few ideas off of you!
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May 29, 2020 01:26
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I think if you want to do anything cool basing that guy, then you're going to need to drill into him to get some rods deep going through the tail and into his chassis. Then you can mount him on some scenic base that is built up vertically. If you build it up vertically you can put some real weights in there to prevent him from be as badly balanced.
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May 29, 2020 02:54
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Honestly, I feel like he'd almost look better not flying. Build some terrain for his feet to be resting on and it looks like he's climbing over it to yell at you.
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May 29, 2020 06:36
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 Been a while since painting again. Decided to start up on Mythic Battles figures I never got around to actually working on. The eyes were a bit too small for me to get detail, so I tried going with that “glowing eye” look. Edit: and now I see the eyebrows are unpainted... Desfore fucked around with this message at 07:29 on May 29, 2020 |
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May 29, 2020 07:27
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In an attempt to spread the joys of Blood Bowl in my local club I convinced a mate to get a blood bowl team. He doesnt want to paint though so asked me to do them for him. Here is the result 😁        
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May 29, 2020 14:51
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More stripping talk... The Purple Power is amazing and I currently have a batch of minis soaking for scrubbing. I did a 12 hour soak on some goopy guardsmen I painted starting out and the paint brushed off effortlessly. The primer stained the fluid but didnt yield. Anything I can do about models turned gummy from denatured alcohol? The details don't look ruined so there is that... luckily it was only 2 models and their bases that this happened to.
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May 29, 2020 16:19
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JackMann posted:Honestly, I feel like he'd almost look better not flying. Build some terrain for his feet to be resting on and it looks like he's climbing over it to yell at you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7XZEcMVds0
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May 29, 2020 23:01
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Finished some translucent spookies! Translucent models have certain problems to work with. You can't prime them for obvious reasons, and matte varnish will ruin the shine. So you end up having to paint the matte varnish on after you do a gloss varnish, and keep the translucent parts glossy.  Translucent purple, painted directly on top. Starting with black is the easiest way to block in your colors when doing translucent models, as it's the easiest to see through and also covers the most. Everything else just goes on top of the black.  Simple black airbrushing on the top and sides, no additional colors. Translucent smoke doesn't really need much else to make it look good.  And everything I painted in May!
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May 30, 2020 00:07
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Scandalous posted:I haven’t painted properly in years and haven’t ever finished a model. I’m trying to get back into the hobby with Salamanders but I’m having a lot of trouble with layering Warpstone Glow. warpstone glow has atrocious layering and the only way I found to do it well was with an airbrush. Your skills may be fine, it's just a finnicky paint. e: i'd add those pictures look fine, some edge highlighting and recess shading will make the irregularities less noticable. whiteshark12 fucked around with this message at 10:22 on May 30, 2020 |
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May 30, 2020 00:19
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whiteshark12 posted:warpstone glow has atrocious layering and the only way I found to do it well was with an airbrush. Your skills may be fine, it's just a finnicky paint. Is it like ushabti bone where it needs at least three coats and has to be thinned down as much as possible?
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May 30, 2020 00:34
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Brainstorming some good color schemes etc for a vampire counts army for ninth age. Any ideas? I'm really lacking creativity with them at the moment and in not sure what direction I want to take things in. Also I bought them used and am stripping the poo poo out of them. Is there a solid route to stripping big whispy models like the coven throne? Anything I need to worry about when stripping finecast? Looking at using super clean as it's worked well before
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May 30, 2020 01:09
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JackMann posted:Honestly, I feel like he'd almost look better not flying. Build some terrain for his feet to be resting on and it looks like he's climbing over it to yell at you. I could see him sitting on a tree branch with his tail hanging down.
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May 30, 2020 01:34
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Torquemada posted:I spend a lot of time looking at this guy https://instagram.com/flameonminiatures?igshid=18v0whvlo5itt Yeah I've been painting longer and I still can't do that. Gawd-daymn.
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May 30, 2020 05:25
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Spanish Manlove posted:Is it like ushabti bone where it needs at least three coats and has to be thinned down as much as possible? I've never used Ushabti Bone but probably, it's somehow simultaneously transparent yet quite thick. Having a good base green to paint over is essential, painting straight over black will end in tears. Lovely colour though at the end.
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May 30, 2020 10:20
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JackMann posted:Honestly, I feel like he'd almost look better not flying. Build some terrain for his feet to be resting on and it looks like he's climbing over it to yell at you. I have issues with all three of the Deep Cuts dragons. The red dragon's the worst because it's actively hostile to being painted, the green dragon has a sculpting flaw (which is weird since I know all the models were designed in 3D), and the white dragon's pose is really dumb. I'm still not sure what it's actually doing. If it's landing, it's about to break its own tail. If it's taking off, it's doing so in a room with a low ceiling and probably shouldn't have bothered. I think it's meant to be hovering but if it is, all it's managed to accomplish is to put itself into a position where the players can attack it and it can't claw or bite them.
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May 30, 2020 11:23
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I finished up some Poxwalkers! I am also messing around with a black background for photos!
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May 30, 2020 12:02
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