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FogHelmut posted:I've noticed the absurd $1500 truck listings lately. And they're all $1500. I don't know why they choose that p[rice point, but I think it costs money now to list a car on CL, so all the scammers fled to FB Marketplace. Not to say they're all scams (as opposed to just trying a bait and switch or upsell,) but they look it to me. And yeah, even in my low population area, I notice a lot of them, though they all seem to be posted by a Dealership, my guess is because it's a lot easier to make a face FB profile for as business than a personal one.
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May 28, 2020 21:58
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Likely getting a house pretty soon, and will want to get some tools together pretty soon after to get a few outdoor projects done while it's nice out. The first things I'll want need to make are some planter boxes and a new fence gate, but after that will likely be eventually replacing most of the fence and maybe making bits of random furniture (starting with stuff like garage tables). Aside from the basics (hammer/drill/impact driver/etc), what is the most important big tool I'd need? It looks like it might be a table saw, and the Dewalt one seems regarded pretty highly?
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May 29, 2020 06:00
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You probably want to start with a miter saw first, you don't need to spend much money for a decent non-sliding 12'' model and it'd be perfect for the projects you mentioned. I'd recommend starting with that and a circular saw before jumping to a table saw.
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May 29, 2020 06:55
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Agreed, for what you're talking about (planter boxes, fence stuff) you're probably going to be fine with a miter saw and maybe a circular saw. Miter saws are great at making crosscuts (across a long board) and, well, miter cuts. Circular saws are useful for cutting down plywood or other sheet goods, and with proper support and an edge guide can make acceptable rip cuts in solid lumber. There's all sorts of other stuff you can do with a circular saw if you're comfortable with it and willing to do some cleanup by hand. I've made a lot of planter boxes with just a miter saw and a drill for screwing it together. An impact driver helps it go faster, but it's not strictly necessary. I've never built a fence or a gate, but you shouldn't need a table saw for that. If you can get what you need to get done with lumber from HD/Lowe's/etc crosscut to length/cut at a miter, you don't need a table saw. edit: get clamps, at least one square (probably a speed square or a 12" combination square) and something you can use a long straight edge, like a good level
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May 29, 2020 07:08
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Bob Mundon posted:Currently don't have a bandsaw but the flexibility it has interests me. Saw this posted on CL for $275, that sounds really high for what a used 14in bandsaw should run. Worth picking up and if so what should I offer? No fence and no quick tensioner so I assume it should be a lot less than the $275 listed right? Boards are expensive where I'm at so being able to resaw 2x material sounds good, this would be way better than buying a similarly priced 10in right? Where around Waco are you(I see that is in Blum)? $275 is great price for a solid 14" around North Texas as you normally see beat to poo poo Deltas for $450+. There are also a ton of mills around but take some searching to find, a lot of farm boys with trailer mills. edit: Your profile says Richardson, I am in Carrollton. Dakota Hardwood, Central Hardwoods, Hardwood Lumber Company, and McKinney Hardwoods all have no problem with walk ins/small orders and most will let you pick through the stack too. My go to is Dakota usually best price and anything over $300 has free delivery. There is Loyd up in Plano planomill.com if your looking for slabs. JEEVES420 fucked around with this message at 08:46 on May 29, 2020 |
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May 29, 2020 08:34
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more falafel please posted:Agreed, for what you're talking about (planter boxes, fence stuff) you're probably going to be fine with a miter saw and maybe a circular saw. Miter saws are great at making crosscuts (across a long board) and, well, miter cuts. I might even go so far as to suggest starting with just a regular everyday handsaw, and then buying machines for more speed and precision later. They're so cheap that there's very little buyer's remorse and with a bit of practice you can get quite good freehand crosscuts. Buy the mitre when you're sick of handsawing and buy the table saw when you stare blankly at a piece of wood with no idea how to safely cut it on the mitre.
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May 29, 2020 14:43
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Hand saws are great, I use mine all the time when I don't feel like getting the big saw out. As far as power tools, a good drill and a circular saw are top two. Then you can branch out to impact drivers and miter saws and jigsaws and table saws. But you can do 90% with a circular saw and a speed square. Some sawhorses, clamps, and straight edge cutting guide (a big level) will help, and have other uses.
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May 29, 2020 16:20
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A speed square and a C-clamp are all you need for crosscuts at 90°. Two C-clamps and a 2x4 for ripping. The fancier tools just have clamps and edges built-in for speed. With the possible exception of mitres and bevels bigger saws don't let you do more, they just let you do what you already could faster.
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May 29, 2020 19:12
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DreadLlama posted:The fancier tools just have clamps and edges built-in for speed. With the possible exception of mitres and bevels bigger saws don't let you do more, they just let you do what you already could faster. Another way I think of it is some tools are designed for you to take the tool to the work, while others are designed for taking the work to the tool. The former is better for large stock since that's awkward to move, and OK for situations where you only have to do one or two because you have to repeat any set up each time (in your example the speed square and clamp). The latter is better for small stock, and things where you need to do a bunch, since you only need to do the set up once.
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May 29, 2020 19:18
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JEEVES420 posted:Where around Waco are you(I see that is in Blum)? $275 is great price for a solid 14" around North Texas as you normally see beat to poo poo Deltas for $450+. There are also a ton of mills around but take some searching to find, a lot of farm boys with trailer mills. Friend, you only go to Plano if you want plano lumber. 
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May 29, 2020 19:27
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Thanks for the input. I was kinda thinking for future growth but it sounds like I don't have a need for a table saw yet, so I'll start with that miter saw and drill (maybe driver), and my dad has offered his excess small stuff, so that should cover squares/clamps/levels. I'm certain that I'll be cutting hardwood at some point, does that affect anything, or should I just go for a well reviewed miter saw and switch blades if needed?
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May 29, 2020 22:11
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Lhet posted:my dad has offered his excess small stuff, so that should cover squares/clamps/levels. Not a true statement.
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May 29, 2020 23:07
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darkspider42 posted:Not a true statement. Ok sure, but they're pretty cheap and it's not a big deal to get more every time I go to the store.
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May 29, 2020 23:37
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Lhet posted:Ok sure, but they're pretty cheap and it's not a big deal to get more every time I go to the store. That's the spirit. Every trip to Lowe's I grab a kobalt $7 folding utility knife and every time I go to harbor freight I grab some clamps. I also have 2 boxes of #2 pencils that I spread around my work bags.
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May 29, 2020 23:49
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Lhet posted:Ok sure, but they're pretty cheap and it's not a big deal to get more every time I go to the store. When you get spoiled on Bessey K bars its hard to buy a lovely/cheap F bar (bow bar)  my middle ground is 1/2" pipe clamps but even those run you about $25 once you buy the pipe to go with it.
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May 30, 2020 00:14
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JEEVES420 posted:When you get spoiled on Bessey K bars its hard to buy a lovely/cheap F bar (bow bar) Yeah (good) clamps ain’t cheap. Good C-clamps especially, and I’m always shocked how much iron pipe costs. I’ve never felt very confident using f-clamps for glue ups-there’s just not enough leverage to really squeeze the juice out.
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May 30, 2020 00:18
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JEEVES420 posted:When you get spoiled on Bessey K bars its hard to buy a lovely/cheap F bar (bow bar) I got a shitload of black 1/2" and 3/4" pipe from remodels that were redoing the gas. 
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May 30, 2020 01:15
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Lhet posted:Thanks for the input. I was kinda thinking for future growth but it sounds like I don't have a need for a table saw yet, so I'll start with that miter saw and drill (maybe driver), and my dad has offered his excess small stuff, so that should cover squares/clamps/levels. I'm certain that I'll be cutting hardwood at some point, does that affect anything, or should I just go for a well reviewed miter saw and switch blades if needed? Definitely get the driver if you're getting a cordless drill. Impact drivers are like magic. 'Hardwoods' aren't necessarily harder than softwoods, it's a confusing naming convention. Most decent quality blades will give good results on all but the hardest wood as long as you don't abuse them (cut metal, glass composites, etc.) And agreed you can never have too many clamps.
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May 30, 2020 01:20
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The $3 6" harbor freight F clamps are what I use 90% of the time and they are absolutely worth the price Any of the other harbor freight F clamps are straight trash, though
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May 30, 2020 01:56
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Sockser posted:The $3 6" harbor freight F clamps are what I use 90% of the time and they are absolutely worth the price I will agree they are worth it but 6" is about the limit on HF F clamps. On the other hand if they are quality made then 12".
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May 30, 2020 02:07
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JEEVES420 posted:Where around Waco are you(I see that is in Blum)? $275 is great price for a solid 14" around North Texas as you normally see beat to poo poo Deltas for $450+. There are also a ton of mills around but take some searching to find, a lot of farm boys with trailer mills. That's about a decade old at this point, down in Hewitt (Waco suburb) now. There is a mill in Valley Mills which I need to stop by at some point, but sticking with Southern Yellow Pine until I get better at this and can start dropping hardwood money.
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May 30, 2020 15:09
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I'm in Dallas, grew up in hewitt though. Feels like every time I check craigslist the best deals on tools are in the waco area. Keep watching.
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May 30, 2020 16:56
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Bob Mundon posted:That's about a decade old at this point, down in Hewitt (Waco suburb) now. There is a mill in Valley Mills which I need to stop by at some point, but sticking with Southern Yellow Pine until I get better at this and can start dropping hardwood money. This really ought to be in woodworking thread, but Yellow Pine is primo stuff and should not be dissed- we had an evangelist for it a few years back in that thread. Workbench, furniture, it's quite alright.
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May 30, 2020 17:46
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Mr. Mambold posted:This really ought to be in woodworking thread, but Yellow Pine is primo stuff and should not be dissed- we had an evangelist for it a few years back in that thread. Workbench, furniture, it's quite alright. Reminder that people are spending hundreds of thousands dredging up sunken logs across the southeast to harvest the "old growth" SYP
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May 30, 2020 19:02
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Hubis posted:Reminder that people are spending hundreds of thousands dredging up sunken logs across the southeast to harvest the "old growth" SYP is "old growth" the new "reclaimed"?
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May 30, 2020 21:58
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Does anyone have a good recommendation for a good gutter cleaning attachment for a pressure washer? I finally picked up my pressure washer today (Honda/Simpson 3200psi) and I the store did not have many accessories at all. Also, any other attachments that I will find out are super useful?
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May 30, 2020 22:19
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JEEVES420 posted:is "old growth" the new "reclaimed"? It’s really sort of the other way around. Old heart pine had its real heyday 20-30 years ago before ‘reclaimed’ got cool. The supply used to pretty plentiful as many places still thought tearing down old parts of town to build interstates was a good idea, but as we’ve realized that’s not a great plan and old warehouses get turned into condo’s instead of having their timbers salvaged, the supply has shrunk a lot more and so folks are digging around underwater more. Heart pine is night and day different from plantation grown 2x4s. It’s hard as hell and a bit of a nightmare to work with (the usual ‘reclaimed’ problems of nails but pitch pitch pitch pitch pitch) but it sure is pretty when you’re done. It ha a warm orange color with reddish brown growth rings that I have never been able to replicate in new pine (and god have I tried). New pine still has the same impressive strength values that make it such an ideal framing lumber and can be pretty like Mambold alluded to. It is one of the strongest and stiffest woods per pound out there. Nice clear stuff is available it just isn’t at a big box and is a bit more expensive.
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May 31, 2020 00:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Heart pine is night and day different from plantation grown 2x4s. It’s hard as hell and a bit of a nightmare to work with (the usual ‘reclaimed’ problems of nails but pitch pitch pitch pitch pitch) but it sure is pretty when you’re done. It ha a warm orange color with reddish brown growth rings that I have never been able to replicate in new pine (and god have I tried). I'm pretty sure that's what I used for a Bluetooth stereo a while back and you're right on all counts: Trabant posted:Made a Bluetooth/3.5mm line-in speaker: Although the smell while working that stuff is just 
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May 31, 2020 00:53
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Trabant posted:I'm pretty sure that's what I used for a Bluetooth stereo a while back and you're right on all counts: That is just gorgeous
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May 31, 2020 01:46
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Along with tools don't forget about a place to work. Ideally a proper workbench, but if you don't have the space or money a folding table, a set of folding saw horses, or WorkMate is really handy. The WorkMate is always useful to keep around when you upgrade. Mine is on its second top and should probably get a new one again soon. On clamps, the formula for # of clamps needed for a glue-up = N + 3, where N = the number of clamps available within a fifteen minute drive of your worksite. My wife makes fun of my clamp collection but the formula continues to hold.
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May 31, 2020 05:49
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Air Framing nailer question, there's a cheap Bostitch N80 available near me, assuming it works is it any good? I can't decipher a million contradictory reviews and want to build a timber framed structure.
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May 31, 2020 14:40
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My personal take on nailers for framing is that firing a 16d nail (1/8" thick, 3.5" long steel spike) with air pressure is loving scary, I'll use a hammer thank you very much. I still use nailers for stuff like sheathing, and a palm nailer is invaluable for nailing in tight confines ( ) but for attaching studs to plates and so on, a hammer won't really slow you down noticeably.I don't know anything about that particular nailer, just trying to make the point that if you think you need to be able to fire 16d nails with your nailer, I suggest giving that some more consideration.
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May 31, 2020 14:46
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cakesmith handyman posted:Air Framing nailer question, there's a cheap Bostitch N80 available near me, assuming it works is it any good? I can't decipher a million contradictory reviews and want to build a timber framed structure. Timber frame to me implies 4" x minimum- literal timbers that take railroad size spikes, so idk how useful a framing nailer would be. Edit: if you're thinking stick framing with 2 x 4's typically, have at it.
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May 31, 2020 17:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My personal take on nailers for framing is that firing a 16d nail (1/8" thick, 3.5" long steel spike) with air pressure is loving scary, I'll use a hammer thank you very much. I still use nailers for stuff like sheathing, and a palm nailer is invaluable for nailing in tight confines (
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May 31, 2020 18:15
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gently caress it I'll use a hammer.
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May 31, 2020 18:33
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I don't have a framing nailer but the Bostitch nail guns that I do have are sequential fire. That is the nailer must be firmly pressed against the wood before you can pull the trigger. You can't just hold down the trigger and jab it at things. The thing that confuses me about the framing nailers is all of the different angle versions that they come in.
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May 31, 2020 18:44
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Probably not the best thread for this question but since we're on the subject of framing. Cost aside, can you use the appropriate sized screws rather than nails for framing a house? Like I understand different jurisdictions = different building codes, but is the reason people don't use screws for framing a function of "nails are cheaper, and faster and we don't have the budget", or is there some other reason like screws bend/break easier?
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May 31, 2020 19:03
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nails are designed for shear loads, screws are better in tension. most building codes are written under the assumption you are framing with nails.
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May 31, 2020 19:11
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From everything I've been reading recently it's a little from column "code", a little from column "2000 nails are cheaper than 2000 screws" and a little from column "screws tend to break when nails bend"
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May 31, 2020 19:12
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The other advantage of screws is easy removal. Why are you removing your house frame?
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May 31, 2020 19:21
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