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Oh btw while we're on the subject. My Hawk has developed a strange click that feels like it's coming from somewhere in the front. It happens when braking relatively hard; as the weight transfers to the front there is sometimes this distinct *click* that I am not sure if I can feel but I can definitely hear it. It only happens once in the course of braking. I can't make it happen repeatedly by rocking back and forth, but it may happen again a few minutes later. If I had to guess, whatever makes the sound somehow gets un-set when I accelerate and then clicks back into place when braking. It sounds like it might be coming from the head, but there's no notchiness or grittyness. What could this sound be?
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May 30, 2020 03:55
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| # ? May 15, 2024 22:22 |
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Rotor buttons, pads moving in the calipers, showa forks being showa forks. But also check the head bearings for play, they behave differently when there's no weight on.
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May 30, 2020 04:09
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Also check your caliper bolts. I had one pop and it did exactly what you describe. OH! are you pulling in the clutch when you brake? Could be your throwout bearing or fork. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 04:38 on May 30, 2020 |
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May 30, 2020 04:34
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I can't remember has the hawk got sliding calipers? Worn slider pins will do it.
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May 30, 2020 04:39
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Slavvy posted:I can't remember has the hawk got sliding calipers? Worn slider pins will do it. yeah totally. If it's clicking you should be able to see a ring where it's worn too. You might even be able to make the noise when you're stopped.
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May 30, 2020 04:42
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Are there any good resources on setting up the bike controls? Looking to change all the positions to optimal, but I have no idea where to put the handlebar.
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May 30, 2020 20:49
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For normal riding, you just want the controls to be set up so you're not stretching forwards or backwards to reach them, your wrists are straight and lined up with your forearms, and nothing binds up at either end of the steering travel. Also adjust your clutch and brake levers so you don't have to bend your wrists to reach them. This might mean rotating them down lower than you think. A ton of RSIs are caused by using your hands while your wrists are bent. Just avoid anything that requires that sort of behavior as much as possible.
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May 30, 2020 21:00
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Sagebrush posted:For normal riding, you just want the controls to be set up so you're not stretching forwards or backwards to reach them, your wrists are straight and lined up with your forearms, and nothing binds up at either end of the steering travel. This seems like good advice, but is it really good advice given all bike shapes, body shapes, posture habits, etc? One thing I think we agree on is line up the handlebar levers with your lower forearm in its natural angle so you don't have to grip up or down.
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May 30, 2020 21:27
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Sagebrush posted:For normal riding, you just want the controls to be set up so you're not stretching forwards or backwards to reach them, your wrists are straight and lined up with your forearms, and nothing binds up at either end of the steering travel. Also adjust your clutch and brake levers so you don't have to bend your wrists to reach them. This might mean rotating them down lower than you think. Alright, that's what I was gonna do anyway, the clutch and brake levers I already understood, but I wasn't sure where to put the handlebar.
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May 30, 2020 21:43
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Sagebrush posted:Oh btw while we're on the subject. My Hawk has developed a strange click that feels like it's coming from somewhere in the front. It happens when braking relatively hard; as the weight transfers to the front there is sometimes this distinct *click* that I am not sure if I can feel but I can definitely hear it. It only happens once in the course of braking. I can't make it happen repeatedly by rocking back and forth, but it may happen again a few minutes later. If I had to guess, whatever makes the sound somehow gets un-set when I accelerate and then clicks back into place when braking. Check your steering head bearing to see if there is any slack. Get the front wheel off ground, rock it sideways and back and forth. Try tightening the steering head nut if there is slack, worst case replace the bearing (3+ hours job, as you might find Other Stuff(tm) while doing that.).
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May 30, 2020 22:34
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helstein posted:Check your steering head bearing to see if there is any slack. Get the front wheel off ground, rock it sideways and back and forth. Try tightening the steering head nut if there is slack, worst case replace the bearing (3+ hours job, as you might find Other Stuff(tm) while doing that.). Yup every time I've felt that click it's slop in the steering head bearings. Either they were adjusted or replaced at one point and settled in or there's a problem. "Hardest" part of the job is the races the rest is just breaking it down, which on a hawk is about an hour.
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May 30, 2020 22:49
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Followup question about my Ninja 250 long term storage. My petcock doesn’t have an “off” position, only on and prime. If I just shut the bike down, fill the tank, and drain the carbs, will the carbs re-fill only once the engine turns on and produces enough vacuum to assist? Or do I need to physically clamp the hose line to prevent additional fuel from making it to the carbs.
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May 30, 2020 23:33
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Prime is gravity feed, the other settings are off unless there's vacuum generated by the engine turning.
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May 30, 2020 23:34
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So I literally do nothing, just avoid turning on the bike after I drain the bowls? Thanks, I’ll dry ‘er out tomorrow then.
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May 30, 2020 23:36
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In normal operation (on). Your petcock only provides fuel when there is a vacuum from a running engine yes.
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May 30, 2020 23:36
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I developed a tiny hole in the hose coming from my water pump at the end of my ride yesterday. I have a new part ordered from Bike Bandit, but it's going to take 1 to 2 weeks to arrive. Is there any temporary repair that's reliable enough for me to do 90 miles of canyons in the heat every Saturday until the correct part arrives? I have a baby coming in at most 4 weeks so I was trying to get my last Saturday morning rides in with my friends while I can. I didn't notice the leak until I was pulling into my buddy's house, I think I would have noticed if the bike was too hot in the end but hopefully it didn't overheat and cause more serious damage. *edit* Now that I think about it, I probably should have ordered all new hoses MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 16:19 on May 31, 2020 |
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May 31, 2020 16:16
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No idea about bikes specifically, but some self sealing tape would be what I would try.
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May 31, 2020 16:36
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Self-fusing silicone tape should do the trick. https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/specialty-adhesives/permatex-self-fusing-silicone-tape/ don't forget to stretch it like the instructions say before sticking it on. Wrap it good well above and below the leak and keep an eye on it, but it should last much longer than you need it to. e: 
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May 31, 2020 16:41
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Thanks, they even have that in stock at my local auto parts store. I'll give it a shot then do some shakedown runs before I venture up into the mountains. I've had to get towed home from there before and it takes forever and isn't cheap.
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May 31, 2020 18:33
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Just in case I'd also stick a couple of bottles of water in a tail bag along with whatever tools you need to get to the radiator filler.
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May 31, 2020 18:38
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Martytoof posted:So I literally do nothing, just avoid turning on the bike after I drain the bowls? Thanks, I’ll dry ‘er out tomorrow then. You could also disconnect the vacuum line from the petcock and run the engine. That way when the engine starts, the vacuum doesn't reach the diaphragm and the fuel doesn't flow. I'm too lazy to drain carbs but not too lazy to pull the vacuum line and let the engine run until the carbs are empty.
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May 31, 2020 18:39
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Sagebrush posted:Just in case I'd also stick a couple of bottles of water in a tail bag along with whatever tools you need to get to the radiator filler. That's a good idea, but I'm currently stuck because I can't undo the top worm drive clamp. The bottom one had the part you unscrew facing the side of the bike, super easy to loosen the clamp. The top one is facing the headers and radiator, so without removing the radiator I can't get a screwdriver in there. Even my tiny Wera toolcheck ratchet + 6mm socket can't fit back there, and all my wrenches end at 8mm. A pair of pliers would probably work but I don't have any long enough, and even the auto parts store was out of 6mm wrenches today, so I'm stuck waiting until Tuesday for my amazon purchase. From this angle it looks like the hose has a big slit in it, but from watching it leak water yesterday I don't think that is the case. I guess I'll find out when I manage to get the hose off completely. Definitely looks old and in need of replacing anyway 
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May 31, 2020 20:09
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Wait till the water pump seal fails and your only indication is the oil turning white.
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May 31, 2020 20:17
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I got a nice new Li battery thanks to the thread helping me find the right size. I charged it up, and now my bike cranks and cranks forever with no ignition. I’ve run this thing flat, charged it and run it flat three times but I can’t get it to start. For reference, bike is a 2014 BMW G650GS It is EFI, ECM controlled, push button start. No kick starter. So far I have pulled the many plastics and checked the air box, air filter, control cables and connections. Fuses look good, but manual suggests all EFI is run through one fuse, so fuel pump and injectors should be on that circuit. Unless there is another hidden one. I think I can hear the fuel pump for a half second when turning the key, but hard to really say. Pulled plugs, they look ok, but might not be getting wet? No fuel? Maybe injectors deliver so little I can’t trust that. Not sure what else to check on this thing. I refueled with fresh gas. Still just cranks. Sprayed some starter fluid, but don’t want to mess up the sensors or anything so when it didn’t even sputter I stopped with that.
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May 31, 2020 21:54
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Take the spark plug out, connect it to the ht lead, place the threaded part in contact with the metal of the cylinder head and crank the bike. You should see a nice fat spark jump the plug gap. If you don't, you have a spark problem. If you do, you probably have a fuel problem. By now the plug would be drenched in petrol if the fuel system is working properly so you may as well get a new one. If you have no spark, the problems in order of decreasing likelihood: crank position sensor, ignition coil, wiring, ecu. If you have no fuel: fuel pump, wiring, fuel injectors, ecu. There are ways to test all this stuff individually but you need to narrow it down further.
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May 31, 2020 22:18
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I have a dumb question about the clutch. With the clutch pulled in, is there ANY friction between the plates, no matter how inconsequential? I’m trying to figure out why, with the clutch pulled in all the way, when I shift out of neutral into first I feel the bike clunk forward an imperceptible amount for a split second. Just trying to figure out what is imparting rotation onto what to make the engine or bike twitch like that.
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Jun 2, 2020 23:24
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When you pull the clutch in you separate the plates by like a millimeter each, they are covered in thick sticky engine oil that easily fills the gap and create a sort of viscous coupling. And even on dry clutch bikes the drag from the plates rubbing past one another is perceptible. So when you clunk into first, the drag is enough to impart some small amount of torque onto the whole driveline (so the gearbox shafts, chain/shaft final drive and the cush drive in the back wheel), which is immediately stopped at the back wheel because moving the entire bike takes a lot more than that even if you aren't on the brakes.
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Jun 2, 2020 23:39
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Yes, when you pull the clutch lever, you relieve the spring tension holding the clutch plates together, but nothing positively forces them apart, so they slide across each other with very little - but not zero - friction/force transfer.
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Jun 2, 2020 23:39
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I guess that explains the question I meant to ask regarding my bike running on stands in neutral but the sprocket turning ever so slowly (just tiny movements every few seconds). In other question news, I inherited a GSX-R750 from my buddy who died a month ago. I went to help the family move it today and I could not get it started. I had a lot of issues turning the key, then eventually the cylinder spun all the way around but I also broke off half the key in the ignition. The cut off switch had been left on, and as far as I can tell the battery is completely dead. The front tire is also low so I'll probably need to tow it home anyway. My question is how easy it going to be to diagnose any lock cylinder fuckery at home? I don't even mind bypassing it with no lock for a while if that's easy enough to do. I need to bring it to the shop for new tires at some point, but I would like to be able to ride it around (after airing up the front) and see how it feels, what work it may need, etc, before bringing it to my shop for new Q3+ tires and whatever else it needs. Also, anyone know what year it is? I think 1999, but not 100% on that. I was surprised to see that cage thing in the front is stock, although I think a PO painted it red. 
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Jun 3, 2020 00:10
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That is an SRAD, if you find the build plate all Suzukis seem to have it'll tell you the year and month of production. The red frame is standard but the paint isn't, it looks like none of the paint or bodywork is original. The forks and triples being painted over all black is a glaring red flag, that one picture alone screams 'not remotely worth it' unless your goal is to have a track hack. If you want to bypass the ignition switch it should be a matter of just joining 3 wires together for 'on', however it may have an anti-hotwire device in the form of a fourth wire that passes through a resistor in the barrel. The ECU looks for a drastically reduced voltage on that wire, so if you just join it to the others it assumes you've hotwired the bike and won't start. Ignition barrels for bikes from that era are usually easy to disassemble and repair, you might just need to drill out some shear head bolts.
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Jun 3, 2020 00:23
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I decided to not be an idiot and just look at the pink slip and it's a 1999. It's a free bike so if nothing else I'll get it running, so how it feels, then it can be a spare bike for my friends and I to mess around on. It's kind of fun to have a project bike that isn't my main bike anyway, so I'll try to un-bro it as much as possible. Ironically I've been meaning to make a post about wanting a bike with better ergonomics than the Daytona because by the time I get to the end of my ride, the last part is downhill on lovely roads and my wrists are just killing me because I'm getting tired and putting too much weight on my wrists, which also makes it hard to turn. I didn't sit on it, but this bike looks like the ergonomics may be as bad if not worse than the Daytona. Actually just checked cycle-ergo and it looks like it has even more lean angle, great. If nothing else it may just become a full track bike. *edit* None of the fairings being original makes sense, I was looking at it in person and was thinking "this is a weird looking bike," but then you google 1999 gsx-r750 and they look great. MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Jun 3, 2020 |
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Jun 3, 2020 00:55
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Slavvy posted:When you pull the clutch in you separate the plates by like a millimeter each, they are covered in thick sticky engine oil that easily fills the gap and create a sort of viscous coupling. And even on dry clutch bikes the drag from the plates rubbing past one another is perceptible. So when you clunk into first, the drag is enough to impart some small amount of torque onto the whole driveline (so the gearbox shafts, chain/shaft final drive and the cush drive in the back wheel), which is immediately stopped at the back wheel because moving the entire bike takes a lot more than that even if you aren't on the brakes. RadioPassive posted:Yes, when you pull the clutch lever, you relieve the spring tension holding the clutch plates together, but nothing positively forces them apart, so they slide across each other with very little - but not zero - friction/force transfer. Makes perfect sense, thank you!
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Jun 3, 2020 01:49
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MomJeans420 posted:I guess that explains the question I meant to ask regarding my bike running on stands in neutral but the sprocket turning ever so slowly (just tiny movements every few seconds). That bike has lived a very hard life. I get it if it was your friends and there is a connection there, however. I'd take a peek at a wiring diagram to see how to hotwire it, then order a new ignition cylinder, you kind of want to verify that other important parts of the bike work before you spend money on a new ignition cylinder
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Jun 3, 2020 16:47
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I like the caboose on the SRAD 
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Jun 3, 2020 18:16
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Won't mounting your license plate like that result in getting pulled over a ton? My plate is slightly illegal (angle not steep enough) but something like that which would probably result in traffic cameras not catching you seems to be asking for trouble.
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Jun 3, 2020 18:28
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mewse posted:I like the caboose on the SRAD SRADS are T H I C C
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Jun 3, 2020 18:35
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High Protein posted:Won't mounting your license plate like that result in getting pulled over a ton? My plate is slightly illegal (angle not steep enough) but something like that which would probably result in traffic cameras not catching you seems to be asking for trouble. Mounting it sideways is pretty ridiculous, but based on the number of wacky plate positions I've seen around, I don't think it really matters. It is at least more visible there than when it's crammed up underneath the fender like the stuntaz with flat tires and huge tank dents like to do. I certainly don't have noncompliant license plate mounts on my motorcycles, no siree. I definitely do not have the plate mounted underneath a luggage rack so that it's visible from directly behind but not overhead -- that would prevent toll cameras from seeing the numbers. Wouldn't dare. Also I dunno if you've noticed what's been going on for the last week but the police don't exactly need to have a reason to do, well, anything they like, anymore, so worrying about your plate position is probably counterproductive.
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Jun 3, 2020 19:04
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Sagebrush posted:Also I dunno if you've noticed what's been going on for the last week but the police don't exactly need to have a reason to do, well, anything they like, anymore, so worrying about your plate position is probably counterproductive. Well sure that's been in the news here too, but over here a hot topic is actually is nuisance caused by motorcyclists and them being scrutinized more. More and more roads closed especially to motorcyclists, certain popular areas cracking down on loud exhausts, angry letters from people to newspapers, etc. However as I'm getting older and moved to a busier area I am getting quite sick of squids on unmuffled I4s hitting the rev limiter for fun down the street.
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Jun 3, 2020 19:17
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:SRADS are T H I C C You jest but when you see one next to a Hayabusa and realise they're the same volume it's quite starling. Those 90's bikes had a tremendous amount of wasted space and it is awesome.
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Jun 3, 2020 19:31
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| # ? May 15, 2024 22:22 |
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You see wasted space I see actual underseat storage.
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Jun 3, 2020 19:50
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