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Done! I am going to base them now with a material called WOODLAND SCENICS B76 Ballast Fine Cinder WOOU1476. I am happy with how they turned out. You can tell where I started to adopt the paint scheme of "I am getting tired of painting these, no one will notice this on the table top, and I have a few dozen other models to paint from other games ooh god."
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Jun 3, 2020 20:52
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I said come in! posted:Done! I am going to base them now with a material called WOODLAND SCENICS B76 Ballast Fine Cinder WOOU1476. I am happy with how they turned out. You can tell where I started to adopt the paint scheme of "I am getting tired of painting these, no one will notice this on the table top, and I have a few dozen other models to paint from other games ooh god." I like to use the Woodland Senics ballast, but it can look a bit gravelly, not terrible though, especially for how cheap it is. I like to get a few sizes in different colors so I can see what I'm doing. I also generally paint it with the rest of the model. I had an idea or epiphany recently, and bought a set of gold panning sifters (yes they exist), so I can sort different sizes of fossils from an ancient seabed for the minis I have arriving in July.
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Jun 3, 2020 21:04
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Furism posted:Finally done with the Maw-Krusha. Sorry for the crappy overexposed pictures. It's not going to win any contests but I'm pretty happy how it turned out and to have finally completed my 2000pts of Orruks! I should have applied a wash to Gordrakk's head I think. But I'm pretty happy how the blood splatters turned out! The paintjob's great. You're right though that the pictures are coming out overexposed, and that's not doing you any favors. I'd try for a set-up with less direct lighting. That will help your highlights and shadows to pop better in photographs.
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Jun 4, 2020 00:48
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I started on my Black Knights tonight while I wait for Primaris bitz to come in... drat these guys are big compared to my usual skeletons lol I'm going for a variety of colors that are semi based on real coat-of-arms I remember and ones I created for fun
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Jun 4, 2020 00:53
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Furism posted:Finally done with the Maw-Krusha. Sorry for the crappy overexposed pictures. It's not going to win any contests but I'm pretty happy how it turned out and to have finally completed my 2000pts of Orruks! I should have applied a wash to Gordrakk's head I think. But I'm pretty happy how the blood splatters turned out! Skull Suggestion: Go back and put a nice dab of Agrax into each eye socket and hold/ rest it eyes-up for a bit
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Jun 4, 2020 00:55
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Disclaimer: I'm a yuge dumbass. The last time I had to paint something, I was quickly banned from ever painting again I bought some Deathwatch minis, so I watched the GW Deathwatch painting vid. Duncan started out by priming the entire mini in black, a base layer in a different shade of black, than any actual colors. After reading the OP, priming is important, but I'm still not sure how primer is any different than normal paint. Since Deathwatch is mostly black anyway, the base layer makes sense, but even the silver shoulder pads were painted in black first before the silver was added. Why? Laying silver on black looks like a good way for the colors to mix. Using silver as a base itself seem simpler Is painting parts while they're still on the sprue a good idea? For something like Deathwatch shoulder pads, where you have a whole bunch of the same part, it seems easier to just bang out the pads while they're all in a row.
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Jun 4, 2020 04:21
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You could always glue a paper clip to the back of each shoulderpad and then stick a bunch of them on the same wine cork like a weird space marine bouquet
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Jun 4, 2020 04:40
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1 - despite both being plastic, acrylic paint doesn't stick to model polystyrene super well. Paint does stick to paint really well though. Primer has extra chemicals in it so it will stick to plastic very well, and then all your other paint can stick to it. 2 - unless you are blending on purpose, an important step is to wait for every layer to completely dry before you do the next one. Once the layers are dry, color will not mix at all, and metallics usually don't show a whole lot of what's under them. But honestly, he probably primed it all black because he was using a spray can on the whole thing at once. 3 - the problem with painting on the sprue is, once you have to remove it from the sprue, if the connection point was on the visible part of the model now you have a bit of bare plastic to repaint.
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Jun 4, 2020 04:53
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Adding to point 3 above, snipping something already painted *can* crack and deform the paint beside where you snip it. if you have good snips this is less of a risk, but it’s always possible
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Jun 4, 2020 08:38
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I'd also like to point out that acrylic paint is translucent, and it's affected by the color underneath. Grey metallics (steel, silver, etc.) look better over black. Warmer metals (gold, copper, etc.) tend to look better over brown.
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Jun 4, 2020 09:15
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Some guy posted this on Reddit and I'm so jealous. JackMann posted:The paintjob's great. You're right though that the pictures are coming out overexposed, and that's not doing you any favors. I'd try for a set-up with less direct lighting. That will help your highlights and shadows to pop better in photographs. Thanks! Yes I think I'll finally invest in one of those cheap light boxes! This is lit with the desk lamp I paint with (which is probably already too bright and direct to paint in the first place, I'm upgrading my workspace as I go). Professor Shark posted:Skull Suggestion: Go back and put a nice dab of Agrax into each eye socket and hold/ rest it eyes-up for a bit I did that but I'll do a second pass to reinforce it some more, thanks.
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Jun 4, 2020 09:49
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I'm painting on some Pledge Floor Gloss to areas I want shiny or wet on my models after applying dullcote, and after 2 very thin layers the areas are not looking too shiny yet. What's the secret? Should I be using more very thin coats and just keep building it up, or is it better to apply just one thicker coat for this effect?
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Jun 4, 2020 14:42
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Quick question: I've been mixing 'ardcoat with a little water for a smoother finish. Is this going to bite me in the rear end later?
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Jun 4, 2020 14:50
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Okay, really weird question: I've been experimenting with coloring flocking and static grass. I'd like to add a tiny bit to a mini to look like hair - something like Gaston's thick chest hair on a barbarian.  I'm still fine-tuning color, but what do you think is more 'dense hair' texture, the straight static grass on the left, or the more 'woolly' flock on the right? Right now I'm leaning right.
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Jun 4, 2020 17:24
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Finished Lady Aiyana and Master Holt.  
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Jun 4, 2020 23:27
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Dienes posted:Okay, really weird question: I've been experimenting with coloring flocking and static grass. I'd like to add a tiny bit to a mini to look like hair - something like Gaston's thick chest hair on a barbarian. At 28mm scale, probably the right one
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Jun 5, 2020 09:06
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A couple of WIP shots of the blightspawn I'm currently working on (apologies for the terrible photos):   The biggest thing I'm unhappy with and have no idea how to improve is the liquid in the backpack.
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Jun 5, 2020 15:52
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Bark! A Vagrant posted:The biggest thing I'm unhappy with and have no idea how to improve is the liquid in the backpack. Liquids are darkest where they're 'thickest' so I'd paint the center of the bulge a darker green that gets lighter towards the edges and suddenly dark again where you can "see" the other side of the containment chamber (unless you want the liquid to be glowing, then it's going to glow more where it's thickest but you'll want to use object-sourced lighting to make that look good). I'd personally use a much grayer blue (like space wolves) for the glass and color it the opposite, darkening it where you can 'see' the other inside walls of the fluid chamber and lightening it where you can see 'through' the space. It looks like there's some sort of machinery on the other side, I'd do a dark outline of that too in a very gray blue, like you're seeing the back side of it. In between your greens and gray/blues I'd paint a bright white oval separating the colors and on the inside of that oval paint a line (or smaller oval) of your brightest green color to be the 'top' of your liquid.  Please forgive the rough MSPaint mock-up. 
PoptartsNinja fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jun 5, 2020 |
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Jun 5, 2020 17:05
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working mom posted:At 28mm scale, probably the right one Thank you! PoptartsNinja posted:
Your "rough mock-ups" are always so helpful!
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Jun 5, 2020 18:44
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PoptartsNinja posted:incredibly helpful stuff Forgive? This is amazing! I will try this and report back
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Jun 5, 2020 21:10
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Recently I got into "building mode"... meaning I started to paint buildings. Painting terrain is a welcome change from mini painting, I enjoy the change of... scenery.. Group shot of all the stuff I done past few weeks:  This thing is too big to take decent pictures of, and didnt want to post a lot of tiny ones.  And this supposed to be my Chapel of Morr  Next: The Garden of Morr!
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Jun 5, 2020 21:34
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Holy hell 
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Jun 5, 2020 22:40
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Those are astounding.
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Jun 5, 2020 22:51
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 I had some major troubles with the big pizza slice sword on the Reaper Bones "Solar" angel. It was a big lump of triangular PVC that came bent and no amount of boiling water, straightening, and cold water could fix. I tried, I really did. About six times. But there was just too much material to heat up and cool down so it'd always develop an 's' curve afterwards. So, since I've been doing Mesopotamian-themed minis I chopped the big stupid sword off, molded a two-headed lion mace (badly) out of green stuff and a toothpick, and turned the Solar into Nergal, the Lion, the King of Sunset, god of war, of high summer, of the sun, of battle and bloodshed, of showdowns at high noon, of courage, of pestilence, and eventual husband of the Queen of the Underworld who was forced to His skin is a departure from my comfort zones, I tried to paint him in the same tones I'd use to paint a lion. It helped that Reaper's Solar is very leonine already.
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Jun 6, 2020 02:02
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Hell I wouldn't have known the mace wasn't the original sculpt if you hadn't said so
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Jun 6, 2020 02:10
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Recently I got into "building mode"... meaning I started to paint buildings. Painting terrain is a welcome change from mini painting, I enjoy the change of... scenery.. Looks great. Love the variation in the roof tile colour/stone colour (sounds dumb, but really does help sell the terrain as "real" as opposed to having all the tiles the same uniform colour with the same shade and the same highlight). Nice highlighting too! I'm assuming thats resin or possibly 3d printed rather than scratch built? Love it either way.
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Jun 6, 2020 02:54
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Iron Crowned posted:Hell I wouldn't have known the mace wasn't the original sculpt if you hadn't said so I cheated a little. When I did the initial mace, one of the lion heads wound up about 20% bigger than the other. So I made a two-part mold with oyumaru, duplicated the mace head in its entirety, and use the smaller (and more appropriately sized) lion head from the duplicate.
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Jun 6, 2020 03:11
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PoptartsNinja posted:I cheated a little. When I did the initial mace, one of the lion heads wound up about 20% bigger than the other. So I made a two-part mold with oyumaru, duplicated the mace head in its entirety, and use the smaller (and more appropriately sized) lion head from the duplicate. Thats not cheating, its improvising and adapting! Unless you were married to the wrong sized lion head, in which case it may technically be cheating...
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Jun 6, 2020 03:36
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Anyone tried much airbrushing with metallics? I've used the vallejo air metallics and those have worked well, but you can run through it quickly doing vehicles and terrain. I'd like to mix up some of my own. Are the metal flakes fine enough for an airbrush with standard vallejo or games workshop metallics?
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Jun 6, 2020 04:29
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Gameko posted:Anyone tried much airbrushing with metallics? Yes, if you have a sufficiently large needle. They're definitely not as fine as proper airbrush paint.
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Jun 6, 2020 04:59
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I had a go at making some custom chapter markings for my as yet unnamed primaris chapter. Used my laser cutter to engrave the markings out of a piece of 3mm MDF to create a flat master. Another way might be to cut some symbols out of thick card or sculpt it, but when you have a hammer...  I made a press mould using oyumaru (blue stuff). Next time I might try using acrylic instead of MDF to create the master, the symbols might come out a little sharper. You only need the tiniest amount of green stuff to fill the mould. I tried to make the castings as thin as possible so it would be slightly flexible even when cured and conform to the shape of the armour.  Then I trimmed off the greenstuff flashing and glued it to the shoulderpads with normal superglue. Maybe I should have trimmed inside the cross symbol too but I ruined the first attempt and I thought it wouldn't be noticeable at tabletop range when painted.  The chapter badge is meant to be a falling star or meteorite. Looks kind of like a middle finger the more I look at it though.  Close up you can see the grainy texture left by the laser inside the cross.  
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Jun 6, 2020 05:45
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Psyber Spine posted:Awesome Yeah the inside of the cross is a bit grainy but I don’t care because that’s a rad project and you should be proud of yourself!
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Jun 6, 2020 06:53
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Gameko posted:Anyone tried much airbrushing with metallics? Yep, totally fine. few drops of Vallejo flow improver in your mix and you can push through just about anything. Citadel, P3, all the thicc bois.
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Jun 6, 2020 07:42
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KozmoNaut posted:Holy hell TotalHell posted:Those are astounding. SiKboy posted:Looks great. Love the variation in the roof tile colour/stone colour (sounds dumb, but really does help sell the terrain as "real" as opposed to having all the tiles the same uniform colour with the same shade and the same highlight). Nice highlighting too! I'm assuming thats resin or possibly 3d printed rather than scratch built? Love it either way. Thanks guys! The colour variation on the roof tiles was not initially planned. I knew I need to put some variation in the stones, but somehow didnt think about it on the roof. So when I painted them, it looked really flat and... yeah "unnnatural" so went back and added some random colour and sure it helped! All the terrain on the photos are actually official GW plastic kits, altho out of production save the "Walls & Fences". I'm not really good at scratch building, but soon I will give it a try, once I run out of the plastic stuff to paint.
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Jun 6, 2020 09:27
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with a rebel yell she QQd posted:Thanks guys! The colour variation on the roof tiles was not initially planned. I knew I need to put some variation in the stones, but somehow didnt think about it on the roof. So when I painted them, it looked really flat and... yeah "unnnatural" so went back and added some random colour and sure it helped! Your paint jobs are really good, lots of character and depth. They hit a nice balance between cartoonish punch and realism. If you're not already watching Black Magic Crafts on YT, you should. He makes lots of interesting terrain from scratch.
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Jun 6, 2020 10:05
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Here's a model I recently finished that I really like. Heinrich Kemmler (nice job on the name, GeeDubs), the original lichemaster.  And here are some models I hate. These are plastic lumps of sadness. The face sculpts are expressionless in the extreme and everything else about them makes me not want to paint them. I was like Vincent Van Gogh violently stabbing color onto them all the while screaming profanities at this hobby I love so much. Sadly, this is the second set of these shits I've had to paint. The first set I did as a commission for the local game stores' set and I did them much better than these. I wanted my personal set to look like they have had their equipment stretched thin, a mix of personal and provided items, hence the blue shirts and gray gloves. I've got 9 more of these minis to go. Courage. 
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Jun 6, 2020 13:39
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Yeast posted:Yep, totally fine. few drops of Vallejo flow improver in your mix and you can push through just about anything. Nice. I’ll give it a go. I read somewhere that you can really gum up your airbrush with metallics and wanted to check before losing a hobbytime block to cleaning the drat thing up.
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Jun 6, 2020 14:47
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Does anyone have any recommendations for a paint on wet look? Usually I testors dullcote everything but I'm looking to have a xenomorph style shiny/wet look for my tyranid skin bit.
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Jun 6, 2020 17:44
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Thanks to all for the supportive feedback on my first timid steps into edge highlighting. Encouraged and emboldened I’ve continued inexpertly on.   Some edges have proven easier than others; some I can just angle the side of the brush against which works nicely, but some I have to paint a freehand line and nicely is not the word. Some of these parts I don’t know how I’ll reach now I’ve glued the damned legs on. Still, I’m almost done with the green, and quite pleased particularly with how the cowl has turned out: 
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Jun 6, 2020 17:45
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lenoon posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for a paint on wet look? Usually I testors dullcote everything but I'm looking to have a xenomorph style shiny/wet look for my tyranid skin bit. Pledge Floor Care Wood Floor Finish with Future Shine Also called Future Floor Wax. Even if you don't end up using it for this purpose, you should have some on hand because it's useful for creating a base for decals and making washes. It's got a pleasant scent, too.
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Jun 6, 2020 19:45
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