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MrOnBicycle posted:How's the hardtop availability / options for the Miata? I'm not a convertible kind of guy, and not a fan of soft tops. Some googling give some pretty cool stuff, but hard to find good quality stuff when the "bad" stuff seems super expensive. Have you considered a BRZ? It seems like you don't like the fundamentals of what a miata is, so why not just get the spiritual miata coupe? No, not the one miata coupe ever made.
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Jun 6, 2020 11:21
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BloodBag posted:Have you considered a BRZ? It seems like you don't like the fundamentals of what a miata is, so why not just get the spiritual miata coupe? No, not the one miata coupe ever made. Yeah I've looked at it, but the big difference is the price. An NA or NB is 5-6x cheaper than a BRZ.
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Jun 6, 2020 11:35
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What about a BMW Z3 coupe or a Porsche 944? Or even a Toyota MR2? I've thrown the Z3 and the 944 around a track and I feel that both could probably give you what you're looking for. The Z3 coupe is closer to what the NB would bring you and the 944 is between the NA and NB in my opinion. I haven't had a chance to drive the MR2 but I have driven against them and they seem to be pretty capable little cars.
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Jun 6, 2020 15:17
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FreelanceSocialist posted:What about a BMW Z3 coupe or a Porsche 944? Or even a Toyota MR2? I've thrown the Z3 and the 944 around a track and I feel that both could probably give you what you're looking for. The Z3 coupe is closer to what the NB would bring you and the 944 is between the NA and NB in my opinion. I haven't had a chance to drive the MR2 but I have driven against them and they seem to be pretty capable little cars. I was close to buying (or going to see with the expectation to buy) and MR2, but it sold before I had time. I've read that MR2s are not optimal for tall people (6'4" long legged) though. A 944 has also crossed my mind, but the maintenance costs seem pretty high. Z3 coupes are pretty expensive here, on par with BRZs.
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Jun 6, 2020 15:46
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The maintenance isn't bad. I've known a few people who autocrossed them and didn't really have many complaints. Only one was a turbo, though. How much are E36 M3's near you, then? It's kind of towards the GT end of things but maybe the prices are decent.
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Jun 6, 2020 15:53
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FreelanceSocialist posted:The maintenance isn't bad. I've known a few people who autocrossed them and didn't really have many complaints. Only one was a turbo, though. How much are E36 M3's near you, then? It's kind of towards the GT end of things but maybe the prices are decent. I'll give 944's another look. They are pretty decently priced, and being in Europe parts shouldn't be too hard to get. E36 M3s are probably ~$20k for a good one. Edit: Or at least the lower performance ones are decently priced.
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Jun 6, 2020 15:58
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BloodBag posted:Have you considered a BRZ? It seems like you don't like the fundamentals of what a miata is, so why not just get the spiritual miata coupe? No, not the one miata coupe ever made. Engine too far forward in chassis so weight balance is kinda carp, you give up double wishbones for struts and a multilink in the rear, and lose hydraulic power steering for electric, although from what I hear the 86 twins have some of the best electric steering feel out there. BRZ's do swallow v8's like no one's business. Oh and ~500 more lbs from the NA/NB Miatas. Edit: with all that said if I see a good deal on a blue BRZ with no wrecks Imma get it. Coredump fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Jun 6, 2020 |
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Jun 6, 2020 18:51
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MrOnBicycle posted:I was close to buying (or going to see with the expectation to buy) and MR2, but it sold before I had time. I've read that MR2s are not optimal for tall people (6'4" long legged) though. A 944 has also crossed my mind, but the maintenance costs seem pretty high. Z3 coupes are pretty expensive here, on par with BRZs. I'm 6' 3 and mostly legs. SW20 MR2s should be fine. I have not had the chance to play in an AW11 or the MRS so I can't say much about those.
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Jun 6, 2020 21:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:"poo poo, we're all gonna die soon, better get that convertible I've been promising myself for decades." Don't neglect the "well, we're not going anywhere fun this summer, may as well have fun here somehow" factor (it's what got me into my NC).
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Jun 7, 2020 19:29
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2020 23:48
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About to pull the trigger on some 14" RPF1's and the new Falken AZENIS RT660 for my NA. Is there any real reason to go 15? I have heavy 16" on it now and I miss the way my old miata with 14's felt.
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Jun 8, 2020 00:10
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Better tire selection. AFAIK, only 195/60R14s are available, in 15” you get to pick between 195, 205, 225, and 245.
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Jun 8, 2020 00:11
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MrOnBicycle posted:(6'4" long legged) This is a critical piece of information. I'm 6', long torso. The NA is the only 'roomy' miata. The NB puts the seats too high and you'll look right at the top of the windshield frame. The NC(owned 2) had my head right up against one of the top bows, never got a chance to drive a PRHT, but legroom was scarce as gently caress in them. BRZ was a hugely roomy position and honestly I wish I could afford one because it's so comfortable. As far as legroom is concerned, the miata really isn't where you want to be.
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Jun 8, 2020 14:01
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I find the 14” tire options good enough for my purposes of spirited driving. You might not win autoX, but they are good.
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Jun 8, 2020 16:05
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BloodBag posted:This is a critical piece of information. I'm 6', long torso. The NA is the only 'roomy' miata. The NB puts the seats too high and you'll look right at the top of the windshield frame. The NC(owned 2) had my head right up against one of the top bows, never got a chance to drive a PRHT, but legroom was scarce as gently caress in them. BRZ was a hugely roomy position and honestly I wish I could afford one because it's so comfortable. Good to know. I test drove an Italian classic recently and well, the results were pretty hilarious.
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Jun 8, 2020 16:06
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I'm very happy with my Federal 595RS-R 205/50-15 tires on my stock 15"s, but they're not an allround tire by any stretch of imagination... Not like the stock 15" rims are that heavy anyways, but I might be biased since my daily has heavy as gently caress 19"s.
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Jun 9, 2020 05:45
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 13:03
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It begins, again...again.
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Jun 11, 2020 01:24
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Double postin' cause y'all slowpokes.   She's dickered boys. Now the question is do I rebuild it because it has a fresh hone and lots of new parts, get a used motor, or just say gently caress it and commit to a K24Z3?
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Jun 11, 2020 20:06
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Swap time.
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Jun 11, 2020 20:07
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K all the things.
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Jun 11, 2020 21:18
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You have the space and know how, the only unanswered questions are how deep is your wallet and is your hate of the BP05 [now] pure?
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Jun 11, 2020 22:38
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A k swap is a multi year thing for me and my budget. Another BP would go in and run in less than 3 hours, having done this so many times now. So I guess the answer is do....both? BP is the short term and the K24 is long term, assuming another BP doesnt blow up.
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Jun 11, 2020 23:02
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 17:35
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 14, 2020 20:07
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Having some issues with my 2001 6 speed and hoping people smarter than me can help me diagnose. Pulled into my garage after a long-ish drive on a hot day and noticed some bad noises when the clutch pedal was pressed in. Sounded like a bearing was going out, but what was strange is there was about a 2 second delay from when I pressed the pedal in to when the noise started. Went outside the next day to look at it and noticed the clutch fluid was on the "min" line, so I topped it off. Started the car, and no more noise when the clutch was pressed in- however my dumb rear end did not check before topping off the fluid to see if it was making the noise cold, so I don't know if the noise went away because of adding fluid or just because the car cooled down. So no more noise with the clutch held in- but now it's making brief grinding noises when I first push the clutch in and put it into gear. Once it's in gear I can sit still and usually get into other gears fine (except one occurance in the below video when it wouldn't go into first after initially shifting into second), but when you let the clutch out in neutral and then clutch-in and shift into any gear, it grinds or chirps going into that gear. Once moving, it's generally ok but about one out of every 20 shifts will chirp a bit going into gear. I've recorded an overly long video of this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ufh6kwKB8I Car info: 2001 SE 6 speed with 62,000 miles. Trans fluid last changed 3 years ago at ~36,000 mi, using that expensive Motorcraft fluid that a lot of the Miata sites recommend. It's doing the same thing even when I double or triple pump the clutch. Could this just be clutch hydraulics going bad, or is a bearing going out? Or could it be something in the transmission?
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Jun 14, 2020 21:17
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I HATE PINK BIKES posted:Fitted my new Whiteline ARB and the bushes look, stressed is the word I'd use. The end links are adjusted to the minimum at the moment, do I just wait until I get it back on the ground — which is a few weeks away yet — and start playing around with the adjustment then or have I somehow hosed up? Cars down south usually aren't that bad...... But it looks better than my pals NC which we went up and bought it around the inverness area. He just said gently caress it and bought the running gear from a written off 2015 nc rather than deal with snapping every loving bolt on the standard suspension. Did you load the suspension up when putting the arb on?
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Jun 15, 2020 01:34
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z16bitsega posted:Having some issues with my 2001 6 speed and hoping people smarter than me can help me diagnose. How is the clutch slave cylinder? Squeeze the boot and see if any fluid leaks out.
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Jun 15, 2020 01:38
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I don't know if it's the current market or just having a 25 year old car, but it's come to me asking everywhere I can for a used BP (NA8) motor. So if you have a used one, or even just a crankshaft in decent shape, let me know.
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Jun 15, 2020 01:55
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z16bitsega posted:Pulled into my garage after a long-ish drive on a hot day and noticed some bad noises when the clutch pedal was pressed in. Sounded like a bearing was going out, but what was strange is there was about a 2 second delay from when I pressed the pedal in to when the noise started. Sounds like a lunched pilot bearing. As the transmission input shaft slows the bearing starts to work. Shifting problems are caused by it binding up and not letting the input shaft change speeds easily when the syncros engage.
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Jun 15, 2020 05:35
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2020 10:42
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track day bro! fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Jun 16, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2020 13:11
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track day bro! posted:shitcunt Yeah, we're not doing this in AI anymore. Please read the rules, thanks. 
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Jun 15, 2020 13:21
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What should I be looking for in an NC2 besides a manual transmission? I understand that getting an NC1 and modding it up is the move right now but initially it'll be a street-first car, and I would like some seat time before I do any modding. I've done some research and the appearance packages are the most desirable, but I am fine eschewing these to get a better deal. I know I should be looking for the Sport Suspension package to get the factory LSD. Asking the chat thread has led me to believe that I'm fine with a soft-top. I should lock the doors like on a normal car, lock anything worth a drat like even a 3.5 to Bluetooth adapter in the trunk when parked at home, and get comp to make a slashed top insurance's problem. I also don't care for the lines of the PRHT with the roof up, and most PRHT cars are autos. A quick look at the market makes it looks like I can get a nice NC2 for $12K or under. $15K can buy me the absolute nicest NC2, but NDs are not much more.
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Jun 15, 2020 19:36
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2020 22:03
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Godzilla07 posted:What should I be looking for in an NC2 besides a manual transmission? I understand that getting an NC1 and modding it up is the move right now but initially it'll be a street-first car, and I would like some seat time before I do any modding. I've done some research and the appearance packages are the most desirable, but I am fine eschewing these to get a better deal. I know I should be looking for the Sport Suspension package to get the factory LSD. I don't know about your area, but I'm seeing NDs 15-17k around my parts.
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Jun 16, 2020 17:38
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Not much more to look for in an NC2. They all have the newer forged internals so it's really just down to getting the LSD and whatever trim options you wanted.
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Jun 16, 2020 17:41
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Does the ND abs automatically adjust front / rear bias? Looking to upgrade my front rotors to larger diameter and more autox style pad.
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Jun 17, 2020 08:56
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Has anyone used 16" wheels on their NB (or NA I suppose)? Do they look too large IRL? From some of the photos I could find online, it seems like they might be, but I just had these pop up on a local craigslist thing for cheap and I kind of want them.
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Jun 23, 2020 09:13
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16"s are fine on NA/NB, 17" is too big. I'd get those in a heartbeat.
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Jun 23, 2020 10:27
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