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Okay, I'll give that a try. I'm hearing a noise, not sure how to describe it. Not sure if it's like a caliper making contact with the disc, or if it might be the wheel bearing. If it's the wheel bearing hopefully those aren't too expensive, I'm not sure how the hybrid braking system works.
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Jun 6, 2020 22:19
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:What kind of info are you looking for? If you just have a couple questions, throw them in here too. Ok, a little back story. In high school I bought a 66 Plymouth Valiant for 400$. Not because I loved old cars or anything, it was just a cheap car. Long story short, I ended up getting rid of it. This is a decision that I kick myself for myself on a weekly basis. I mean this car was not modified at all. Factory engine, seats,etc. I'm getting angry just trying this. So, I have the means to rectify this error. But I didn't find many prospects on the internet. Is this something I'm going to have to haunt car clubs and stuff to find? Would love to have this as a first project car.
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Jun 7, 2020 02:38
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vulturesrow posted:Ok, a little back story. In high school I bought a 66 Plymouth Valiant for 400$. Not because I loved old cars or anything, it was just a cheap car. Long story short, I ended up getting rid of it. This is a decision that I kick myself for myself on a weekly basis. I mean this car was not modified at all. Factory engine, seats,etc. I'm getting angry just trying this. Are you looking specifically for your old car or just a '66 Valiant? If you're willing to sacrifice a bit, you might have some better luck finding a Dart of the same era as they shared a platform and the Darts may have a bit of a better survival rate. They made about a zillion A bodies so if you're dead-set on getting one, do some research first. Check out Wikipedia for general info and then head over to allpar.com because they most likely have a great article on them. Good luck dude.
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Jun 7, 2020 02:56
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Are you looking specifically for your old car or just a '66 Valiant? If you're willing to sacrifice a bit, you might have some better luck finding a Dart of the same era as they shared a platform and the Darts may have a bit of a better survival rate. They made about a zillion A bodies so if you're dead-set on getting one, do some research first. Check out Wikipedia for general info and then head over to allpar.com because they most likely have a great article on them. Good luck dude. Definitely first choice is a 66 Valiant. I don't think there is any chance I find my old one unfortunately.  Not sure what #2 is yet.
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Jun 7, 2020 03:29
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vulturesrow posted:Definitely first choice is a 66 Valiant. I don't think there is any chance I find my old one unfortunately. There's definitely some for sale out there. It will be mostly a matter of price and location. You'll have to decide how much you're willing to pay and how far you'll go to get it.
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Jun 7, 2020 03:43
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vulturesrow posted:Definitely first choice is a 66 Valiant. I don't think there is any chance I find my old one unfortunately. If you're that determined to snag that car, you better be willing to travel. If this is gonna be that project you keep forever, you better cast a wide-rear end net. Start setting up Craigslist alerts nationwide and poo poo. I know a thing or two about second chances.
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Jun 7, 2020 03:49
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Deteriorata posted:There's definitely some for sale out there. It will be mostly a matter of price and location. You'll have to decide how much you're willing to pay and how far you'll go to get it. Willing to go pretty far, or at least to have it delivered. Price I haven't decided on yet. Not sure what's reasonable for a given condition. Boaz MacPhereson posted:If you're that determined to snag that car, you better be willing to travel. If this is gonna be that project you keep forever, you better cast a wide-rear end net. Start setting up Craigslist alerts nationwide and poo poo. I know a thing or two about second chances. Guesss I need to learn to how to do that on Craigslist. I have to assume there is some enthusiast group out there that could help, right?
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Jun 7, 2020 04:47
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vulturesrow posted:Willing to go pretty far, or at least to have it delivered. Price I haven't decided on yet. Not sure what's reasonable for a given condition. Here's a few on Autotrader to get you started: https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1966/plymouth/valiant/101227799 https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1966/plymouth/valiant/101129463 https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1966/plymouth/valiant/101184900 There's a couple others that are ex-drag car or otherwise highly modified that I don't think you're after. Good luck, chase that dream.
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Jun 7, 2020 04:56
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Deteriorata posted:Here's a few on Autotrader to get you started: I did at least find the ones on autotrader. 😁 But thank you. In a way, I want that actually needs some work
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Jun 7, 2020 05:02
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Definitely qualifies as stupid question, so it goes here. If there's an engine that someone says needs head gaskets, is there any way to verify that the head gaskets didn't ruin the block itself without tearing down the engine and getting out one of those fancy gauges that checks for warping? I guess you could do a compression test to see how bad the head gaskets are and if it's just marginal rather than "lol, what head gasket?" you would be safe? In this context the engine is already pulled.
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Jun 7, 2020 19:58
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Definitely qualifies as stupid question, so it goes here. If there's an engine that someone says needs head gaskets, is there any way to verify that the head gaskets didn't ruin the block itself without tearing down the engine and getting out one of those fancy gauges that checks for warping? I guess you could do a compression test to see how bad the head gaskets are and if it's just marginal rather than "lol, what head gasket?" you would be safe? In this context the engine is already pulled. I think you are overestimating the amount of labor it takes to remove the heads on an engine that's already pulled. There is no need to come up with another way to do this because it's just not all that much work to pull the heads, spend some time scraping the remainder of the gasket off and throwing a straightedge on the deck and the heads to see what you've got. Also, bad head gaskets don't ruin a block. Overheating does. It feels like you have a specific thing you're asking about but not giving all the details.
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Jun 7, 2020 21:24
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Kind of, yes, but because it won't actually ever matter. I've been windowshopping upgrades for my car because I'm broke as hell and dreaming about being able to afford stuff is nice. There's someone selling a EJ22T long block for $600 that supposedly has bad head gaskets, which made me curious as to what's involved in making sure that an engine with bad head gaskets isn't a lost cause.
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Jun 7, 2020 22:15
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I mean, you can pressure test the cooling passages as well (once the head is off, if you have blocker plates, etc) but that's basically not worth it for an already out of the car $600 long block. Unless you already had all that poo poo, which is worth a lot more than $600 and engine specific it's gonna cost that much or more to get it checked out by someone who does. You get a story, you take a look at the oil, you can check crank runout and the general condition and then you take a chance. Hell, I've had aluminum heads that I thought were fine until they were already at the machine shop getting decked and the first few passes showed cracks. No matter what I did before that to inspect turned up anything. It's always going to be a gamble. And with an entire longblock? Just count on a full rebuild and all the machine work for everything unless you are getting a working pull. This isn't something you do with a $600 + head gaskets budget unless you are willing to take the chance that it amounts to $20 in scrap. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jun 7, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2020 23:57
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Fair enough. The EJ22T is actually pretty scarce and valuable, which is surprising at first until you realize it was only made for like 4 or 5 years in one trim of one car and since it's a closed deck engine compatible with EJ20s, WRX people buy them just for the bottom end.
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Jun 8, 2020 00:02
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If it's scarce and valuable why is one with a seemingly simple (and totally common suby problem) being sold for $600?
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Jun 8, 2020 00:10
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It's in a pile with a bunch of other first-generation Legacy parts, the story the seller has is that it hasn't been used for over a decade so it could have been pulled from a rusted-out car as "possibly worth something" and then shoved in a shed I did a searchtempest search for EJ22T and there were three results in the entire country, so it's not like there's a lot of other things to price it against. I had to do a good bit of digging to even find out that people were using them for that, and one of the places I found it was one of the two other search results about 1500 miles away. If I had known they were desirable I probably wouldn't even have looked. Again, I'm not actually going to buy this, I don't have the money right now. I apparently need to replace a wheel bearing on the car I was going to be selling soon because I can't in good conscience sell it with a bad wheel bearing even if a buyer didn't notice. And then I need to live somewhere that has a garage because I'm not doing an engine swap in the driveway.
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Jun 8, 2020 01:45
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I accidentally spilled some nasty old brake fluid in my yard, spilled about a cup and half or so before I caught it. How big of an environmental disaster have I caused?
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Jun 8, 2020 16:47
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Squashy Nipples posted:I accidentally spilled some nasty old brake fluid in my yard, spilled about a cup and half or so before I caught it. Not very much. If you're really concerned about it, shovel it up, toss it in the garbage and let Michigan deal with it.
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Jun 8, 2020 16:54
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Hypothetically speaking, how feasible would it be to buy a car in Canada (BC) for a move to the US (WI)? Has anybody here done something similar? I need to make this move at the end of summer, and I have so little stuff that renting a shipping container or U-Haul would be a waste. Since I'll be needing a car at my destination anyway, I'm trying to figure out if it would make sense to buy something reliable like an Accord or Camry in Vancouver and just drive it cross country. So far, I know that to be imported / registered in the US, the Canadian vehicle would need to meet US safety and emissions standards. Is there an easy way to check if a vehicle meets these standards apart from the stickers on the car itself? To save time and reduce coronavirus exposure risks for everyone, I'd like to narrow down my search to models / years that would be easier to import, if possible. What else do I need to consider? If it's a terrible idea, the alternative plan is to ship a few boxes of things, fly back, and buy a car there. TBH none of the options seem great with the pandemic running wild in the US, but at least the long drive seems like it would be enjoyable. The land borders remain closed but as a returning US citizen I'm pretty sure I could pass, and just self-isolate at the final destination (which I would do whether driving or flying).
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Jun 8, 2020 19:25
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2007 Corolla LE I need to buy flare nuts for my new KYB strut tower. Struts arrived in mail, but are missing the flare nuts. KYB said they're all out of the flare nuts and I'll have to buy my own (lmao). According to the KYB rep the thread size for the nuts are M8x1.25. What kind of material should these nuts be made out of? Is stainless steel enough for a vehicle that's driven in a salt country (Southeast Ontario)? I'm just leery of buying this sort of hardware separate from the manufacturer. There's stainless steel, titanium ones. melon cat fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 19:56
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gloom posted:Hypothetically speaking, how feasible would it be to buy a car in Canada (BC) for a move to the US (WI)? Has anybody here done something similar? I need to make this move at the end of summer, and I have so little stuff that renting a shipping container or U-Haul would be a waste. Since I'll be needing a car at my destination anyway, I'm trying to figure out if it would make sense to buy something reliable like an Accord or Camry in Vancouver and just drive it cross country. I don't know the answer, but I know it gets complicated when you are (presumably) a US citizen living abroad wanting to bring a car back with you. Normally it's basically 99% the car has to be over 25 years old unless a very specific and difficult set of criteria are met, but there's some exceptions for a case like yours. This thread is more about importing JDM cars for personal use or resale, but I'd say it would still be a good place to ask: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3829078
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Jun 8, 2020 20:23
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It's nowhere near that complicated for a Canadian car that's also sold here. I will try and dig up some resources to get you started in a few minutes. Edit: I didn't read fully. Hang on Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Jun 8, 2020 |
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Jun 8, 2020 20:38
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This article breaks it down. https://www.snowbirdadvisor.ca/how-permanently-import-your-car-us-canada Not sure if somebody in this thread has done it? Would be good to get some personal experience. I can tell you: We don't have the Nissan Qashqai or Micra We don't have the B-class Mercedes in anything other than electric Not sure what other models are Canadian exclusive -- those are the ones I remember seeing when driving up last. Also some engine choices like the 2.0L Mazda 3 in the 2019+ generation aren't here. So it'd be best to be sure it's both a model and drivetrain choice available here. I used to see those Acuras that were Honda Civics with different taillights often enough, so I know people do it. I've seen a Canadian trim Mazda 3 too. Also the I♥Linux guy is sitting on a Canadian spec Mazda Protege :P That would have been a doozy to do because it would mean installing the motorized seatbelts.
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Jun 8, 2020 20:51
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Do many manufacturers actually provide those certification letters? My friend who imported a 40-series Land Cruiser said that companies won't do that (hence the 40, which is well over 25 years old) but maybe it depends more on the company. I would think it would be too much hassle for the company since unless you're buying new, like that extra-special deal from Volvo where you buy it and pick it up at the factory and get a paid vacation in Sweden with the package they wouldn't be making any money off it. I know very little about the whole process, which was why I pointed to the thread full of people that have actually done it. At this point it's just a daydream for me of getting a Gravel Express or a Pulsar/Sunny GTI-R or a Cefiro or something.
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Jun 8, 2020 21:51
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So I have this old 2 stroke scooter from the 1960's it ended up sitting for like 5+ years with mixed fuel in the tank. I got a scooter guy his SOP is to pull the tank and take it to a radiator shop. I am alittle gun shy because I broke a fuel gage on one of these bikes before. Odly enough I picked up the cutest little tool from a air mechanie its a box with car batter and a fuel pump hooked up to a toggle switch so I was able to drain the tank. you guys got any tipes on cleaning the tank? like would seafoam be good? I was thinking of using my little pump to cycle clean fuel through the take a couple of times.
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Jun 9, 2020 06:54
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My dad has an 04 Ford Ranger (one of the last precious and good ones) Ever since he bought it a couple years ago, the passenger door has a weird tick. The door doesn't "pop" open when you use the handle. Instead, you have to gently unlatch the handle and open the door by grabbing the top of the door frame and pulling that to pull the door's weight. Any idea what part that would be to replace? I'm thinking maybe the whole door latch assembly. 2 door, 3 liter V6 if that matters.
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Jun 9, 2020 07:46
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The hinges might be worn a bit too much.
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Jun 9, 2020 11:30
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Charles posted:Also the I♥Linux guy is sitting on a Canadian spec Mazda Protege :P That would have been a doozy to do because it would mean installing the motorized seatbelts. Motorized seat belts basically died after about 1993 in the US (even 93 was only a handful of cars that hadn't yet seen a refresh, like the Integra), which is a bit beyond the 25 year rule. Depending on year model and when he did it, he could have just used the 25 year exemption. Otherwise the parts are easy enough to get (plenty of people ditch the motorized belts for CDM parts on USDM cars that had those stupid things, finding a model-specific forum and finding someone unloading all that stuff isn't that hard). canyoneer posted:My dad has an 04 Ford Ranger (one of the last precious and good ones) wesleywillis nailed it. Probably needs new hinges, or at least needs the hinges adjusted. Betting the driver's side has been done already, OR it's been hit on the passenger side and was put back together in a hurry (or even hit on the driver's side and put back together properly). Sometimes you can adjust the striker (the loop on the B pillar that the latch grabs) a bit to compensate, but you need to take a look at how the door sits relative to the body while it's unlatched and pulled out just enough to fall off of the striker. The latches generally don't adjust much, if at all. You probably have to slam it shut too, right? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:47 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 12:44
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wesleywillis posted:The hinges might be worn a bit too much. STR posted:wesleywillis nailed it. Probably needs new hinges, or at least needs the hinges adjusted. OK, that makes sense. I'll get some hinge pins and also a replacement plastic outside handle (because someone didn't get the memo on how to open the door and tore it off) Thanks folks
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Jun 9, 2020 17:41
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2000 Toyota Avalon -- my son's car, he's dragging rear end on getting his license, so it's sitting a lot. To keep up the battery, I got a 15W solar charger. Plugged it in and looks to be charging. However, now the car won't lock/arm the alarm. I can unplug the charger from the cigarette lighter and it'll lock and activate from the keyfob no problem. Plug it back in... no response to the "lock" button on the fob. I manually locked it and it's fine, but wtf?
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Jun 9, 2020 18:38
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EVERYWHERE 
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Some kind of interference from pushing power thru the cigarette lighter vs. drawing power? If you clamp the charger to the battery does it have the same effects?
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Jun 9, 2020 18:41
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StormDrain posted:Some kind of interference from pushing power thru the cigarette lighter vs. drawing power? If you clamp the charger to the battery does it have the same effects? I dunno, let me go see! Edit: With the solar cell spring clipped to the battery, everything functions as normal. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 18:47
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meatpimp posted:I dunno, let me go see! It's haunted. Or something explainable by an electrical engineer, which is haunted adjacent anyway.
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Jun 9, 2020 19:23
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Yeah, there's a lot of weird possibilities that could be causing that, but I'd say it's somewhere along the lines of (I think) PainterofCrap's 300M or Intrepid or whatever, and the backward window switch which was causing the car to run without the key in. If leaving it clamped on isn't an option, I'd wire up a new cigarette plug under the dash - if you don't run through the existing wiring, it won't cause the same problem. You can probably try different existing lines inside if you want to try narrow it down. I'd guess there's going to be something weird, like the lock control module gets power through the cigarette lighter, something like that.
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Jun 9, 2020 19:43
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE Wouldn't overthink it much. Stainless is fine. Myself, I'd walk into the hardware store with the strut (to verify threads) and find black oxide ones.
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Jun 9, 2020 20:07
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C-Bangin' it 
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE Flange nuts, just so you're aware. I get mine at Ace, Home Depot, and Lowes. Did KYB give any specifications for material?
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Jun 9, 2020 20:14
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STR posted:Motorized seat belts basically died after about 1993 in the US (even 93 was only a handful of cars that hadn't yet seen a refresh, like the Integra), which is a bit beyond the 25 year rule. Depending on year model and when he did it, he could have just used the 25 year exemption. The Protege had them through 94. This is a 1990 model. The pic was taken in 2000 or so (yellow sticker is 2000). Meaning it probably would have been imported through a registered importer. 
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Jun 9, 2020 20:18
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Can you take non OEM parts (rotors and brake pads) and have a dealer (VW) install them?
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Jun 9, 2020 20:22
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Krime posted:Can you take non OEM parts (rotors and brake pads) and have a dealer (VW) install them? Dealers are gonna be hard to convince. In my experience they don't like people horning in on their markups. I would find an indy shop, they're usually more flexible. Make sure you bring in everything in the packaging so they're sure the parts are what you're representing them to be.
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Jun 9, 2020 20:23
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Charles posted:The Protege had them through 94. This is a 1990 model. The pic was taken in 2000 or so (yellow sticker is 2000). Meaning it probably would have been imported through a registered importer. Nice fanny-pack utility belt, Batman.
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Jun 9, 2020 20:25
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