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High Protein posted:My dad just bought an Enfield Himalayan, who was it here who had endless trouble with his? HenryJLittlefinger posted:Tim Raines IRL but different name now. It's Cabbages and Kings now, here's a link to one of his himalayan posts.
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Jun 6, 2020 15:16
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| # ? May 16, 2024 13:49 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Tim Raines IRL but different name now. Renaissance Robot posted:It's Cabbages and Kings now, here's a link to one of his himalayan posts. Much appreciated.
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Jun 6, 2020 16:07
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Is asking about motorcycle oil brands going to start a holy war I’m just stocking up the garage shelf while I have it forefront in my head. Have a two pack of FRAM filters in my Amazon basket and probably just going to get a jug of Motul 5100 unless the thread waves me off for some reason.
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Jun 6, 2020 20:21
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Martytoof posted:Is asking about motorcycle oil brands going to start a holy war Just get whatever the OEM recommendation is.
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Jun 6, 2020 20:30
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Yep, use what it says in the manual. If you can't find that, get anything with a JASO-MA rating in the correct weight, or Rotella T. End.
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Jun 6, 2020 20:47
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How does flushing and bleeding a clutch slave bring the engagement point on lever release closer to the bars? I thought the 690 maybe had weak springs or something because the engagement point was way out regardless of lever adjustment but after flushing and bleeding I can now set it right where I want it. In my smooth brain it would seem that air in the system would just get compressed and make it not disengage fully on when the lever is pulled and the clutch would just grab immediately on lever release but it was actually the opposite.
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Jun 6, 2020 22:02
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Yerok posted:How does flushing and bleeding a clutch slave bring the engagement point on lever release closer to the bars? Short answer: It's what you are thinking but with the opposite effect. Longer answer: Air compresses more (meaning less pushback) than oil. When you pressurize the system with the clutch lever you are effectively giving it 80% (for example) the pressure that your hand is giving it. This is why these clutch systems are filled with oil not air. edit: I'm not even sure I've made sense there I'm sorry.
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Jun 7, 2020 01:14
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I get what you're saying, incompressible fluids are used for doing work with a hydraulic system because they just get displaced by the pump/master cylinder/whatever as opposed to the behavior of compressible fluids like air. Maybe my diagnosis is wrong and instead there wasn't that much air in there as opposed to water sitting in the slave under the non hygroscopic clutch fluid/tiny particles of clutch slave seal and the master was doing more work with less travel because water is totally incompressible as opposed to the synthetic atf I replaced it with which is slightly compressible? Anyways I have more important ktm questions to worry about, such as, how long will it take the exhaust melt the fuel tank?
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Jun 7, 2020 02:07
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It won't melt the fuel tank, but chances are you'll go through a few turn signals
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Jun 7, 2020 03:27
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Martytoof posted:My Ninja 250 was 50% self-sealing tape, by weight when I bought it. Does that actually hold up for brake lines? Seems like a really bad idea...
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Jun 7, 2020 04:25
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Yerok posted:Anyways I have more important ktm questions to worry about, such as, how long will it take the exhaust melt the fuel tank? Jazzzzz posted:It won't melt the fuel tank, but chances are you'll go through a few turn signals It will melt any plastic based fabrics on contact, as well as plastic. It will melt a motorcycle cover after a ride. It's a shame, because it's a great looking and sounding exhaust.
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Jun 7, 2020 06:55
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Coydog posted:It will melt any plastic based fabrics on contact, as well as plastic. It will melt a motorcycle cover after a ride. For this you can carry a little spray bottle of water in a pocket or bag. I've found less than 100ml is usually enough to get the system below liedenfrost temperature (where any water that hits it is hissing and spitting off), at which point it's safe for most synthetic fabrics and motorcycle covers to touch. I do this pretty much any time I'm going to be parked up in the city for a while, lets me throw the cover straight on when I stop instead of having to wait 15 minutes for the headers to cool off by themselves. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Jun 7, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2020 10:22
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MomJeans420 posted:Does that actually hold up for brake lines? Seems like a really bad idea... Brake lines were literally the first thing I replaced once I noticed. Someone new to motorcycles shopping for used bikes with no one to assist can lead to ... unwelcome discoveries after the fact.
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Jun 7, 2020 12:17
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Renaissance Robot posted:For this you can carry a little spray bottle of water in a pocket or bag. I've found less than 100ml is usually enough to get the system below liedenfrost temperature (where any water that hits it is hissing and spitting off), at which point it's safe for most synthetic fabrics and motorcycle covers to touch. That's and excellent suggestion, which I'll remember. In the case of the 690, the CAT is in the exhaust, so a spriz of water isn't doing anything.
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Jun 7, 2020 15:43
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I was bopping around on the DRZ last night when all of a sudden the throttle started acting very weird. It was 'dead' for 90% of its range and only at the very WOT position does it actually open up the the carb. I had to keep it all the way open and putter home at like 30mph in third. Broken cable? Throttle assembly? I guess I could just tear it down and look for broken stuff.
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Jun 7, 2020 19:06
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Loose screws on the throttle butterfly although that’s probably pretty rare as I believe they are put in with loctite from the factory. Cable fraying is probably the more likely answer. When they break the frayed bits tend to dig into the sheath, further promoting breaking and stretching of the remaining cable
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Jun 7, 2020 19:16
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Gotcha. I've watched the butterfly and the cable's only acting on it in those last few mm of travel. I'll focus on cable first.
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Jun 7, 2020 19:30
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I had a similar effect (not quite as bad) when the cable slipped off the cam at the throttle tube. The plastic had just worn out over time and when the cable slackened up at the end of its travel, as it must for safety, it would spring into a position where it fell off the cam. After I figured out what was going on, I was able to fix it by opening up the throttle control and adding a thin plastic shim (cut from a styrene food container) next to the cam.
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Jun 7, 2020 19:36
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Oh just figured it out. The barrel end of the throttle cable popped out of the bracket by the butterfly. Sorting it now
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Jun 7, 2020 19:36
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OK, this is weird. The ferrule on the end of the throttle cable has two nuts right next to each other, looks like a locknut setup. However, when I pop the end back into the bracket, it just pops right back out. Are those two nuts supposed to be on either side of the bracket and clamping it? Any thoughts? Trying to search for pics of how it should be set up but no luck yet.
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Jun 7, 2020 19:48
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Post a pic? Usually throttle cables have two nuts that go either side of the bracket on the carb, you set the slack roughly with those then fine-tune with the sheath adjuster, usually found somewhere near the handlebar end of the cable. You shouldn't be able to pull the cable out of anything.
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Jun 7, 2020 20:15
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Yep exactly what I did just now. One nut on each side of the bracket, screwed the far end adjuster in all the way, clamped the carb end down as close as i could get to 'no slack' without going over, then dialed it in with the adjuster at the throttle control. We're good to go now.
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Jun 7, 2020 21:09
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Slavvy posted:Take the old ignition barrel apart and physically verify it has no hotwire protection. Trip report on the thrashed gixxer (I need a nickname for it I guess, but that's descriptive enough): I knew if I could get it into dealer mode, it'd throw a helpful error code on the dash. Most of the posts kept on saying all you needed to do was remove the rider seat to access the wires you need to jump for dealer mode, but I couldn't find it for the life of me. I finally found a post saying it may be under the pillon seat, and for my year bike it would only have two wires going to the connector, not six. First problem is removing the rear seat without the key (which broke off in the ignition). Luckily enough there's a trick where you can just pull up the seat and fit a 10mm wrench under there, remove two bolts and the seat is free. I did this, found the connector, jumped it and got a C42 error code, ignition switch signal. This was enough to get me to forum posts detailing the need for a 100ohm resistor that should be wired in series with one of the connections I made, as the ECU looks for a voltage drop on that wire compared to the main power wire from the ignition cylinder, and won't power the fuel pump without that condition (which explains why I didn't hear the fuel pump at all). Unfortunately since Radio Shack closed I don't have a great local location to buy resistors, so I have a 100 pack from amazon coming soon. I then looked at the rear seat lock and realized I could just remove it and pull the cable manually, so now I can put the rear seat on and still remove it without the key. I brought the rear seat lock inside and decided to play with my lockpick set that I only needed once around 5 years ago. It actually ended up being fairly easy to get that open, so I went out to the bike and managed to unlock the gas tank. The trick was I was able to get it partially unlocked with just the torsion spring from the lockpick set, but then it felt stuck and still didn't open. A big flathead screwdriver easily got it the rest of the way, so that's one less thing to worry about now. I have a new ignition cylinder / gas cap / rear seat lock on the way, it looks like the most involved portion will be replacing the ignition cylinder as it requires raising the gas tank, getting the triple tree off, etc, but it doesn't seem that bad. I also tried adding air to the front tire, but I could hear air immediately leaving from the valve stem, which had a bunch of silicone on it so I'm assuming my buddy tried to fix it. It's not a small leak, it pretty much just won't hold air, which makes moving and/or turning the bike VERY hard. I was already irritated by the fact it's not a 90 degree valve stem, so next on my list is fixing that. I was tempted to just remove the wheels and bring them to my bike shop for new tires, but I think I should get it started and ride it around a bit before I drop the money on new tires.
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Jun 8, 2020 00:01
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MomJeans420 posted:Trip report on the thrashed gixxer (I need a nickname for it I guess, but that's descriptive enough): I knew if I could get it into dealer mode, it'd throw a helpful error code on the dash. Most of the posts kept on saying all you needed to do was remove the rider seat to access the wires you need to jump for dealer mode, but I couldn't find it for the life of me. I finally found a post saying it may be under the pillon seat, and for my year bike it would only have two wires going to the connector, not six. First problem is removing the rear seat without the key (which broke off in the ignition). Luckily enough there's a trick where you can just pull up the seat and fit a 10mm wrench under there, remove two bolts and the seat is free. I did this, found the connector, jumped it and got a C42 error code, ignition switch signal. This was enough to get me to forum posts detailing the need for a 100ohm resistor that should be wired in series with one of the connections I made, as the ECU looks for a voltage drop on that wire compared to the main power wire from the ignition cylinder, and won't power the fuel pump without that condition (which explains why I didn't hear the fuel pump at all). Unfortunately since Radio Shack closed I don't have a great local location to buy resistors, so I have a 100 pack from amazon coming soon. What a fantastically elaborate way of saying I was right all along 
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Jun 8, 2020 01:59
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But we're not going to admit that. I just like to fix everything in the hardest way possible (I wish I had realized I could just unhook the rear seat lock rather than undo two hard to access bolts), but I needed to figure out dealer mode anyway, I'm sure it'll come up. I'm hoping replacing the valve stem is easy, doesn't seem too bad but I'm not sure about reseating the bead. I think if I only break it a little bit to access the valve stem it shoudn't be too bad, but we'll see.
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Jun 8, 2020 16:10
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Replacing valves stems are pretty easy, I've only done it with the wheel off the bike. You want new stems, and some kind of puller + some slippery stuff, I used some dish soap. Reseating a tire is mostly just about inflating it fast enough, easiest with a tanked compressor, but doable if you're lucky with a non tank compressor or floor pump.it is a little easier if the tire is used and in the same position as it was already installed.
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Jun 8, 2020 16:53
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Yeah, seating the bead is never a problem if you're refitting the old tire.
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Jun 8, 2020 18:51
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DRZ-SM crew - has anyone done the fcr39 carb swap from the stock, and if so what was their opinion of it (cost, process, difficulty, value)? I have a full yoshi system and 3x3 mod, otherwise stock. I've heard around the traps that the fcr39 carb makes a huge difference without compromising reliability (drz lol). I don't want a big bore kit, hot cams or any other bollocks, just something to pep it up a little without breaking the bank.
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Jun 9, 2020 00:45
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Yes, I’ve done two now, on both the DRZ’s I’ve owned. The first one I did I bought a used carb off eBay from a CRF (iirc) and the second one I bought brand new from sudco/thumpertalk. The first obviously needed a complete rejet and accelerator pump bleed jet change. It required a lot of tweaking to get right but once I got it right it was night and day. The sudco one is basically set up perfect out of the box. Mine needed a bit of adjusting but was jetted fine. The FCR is, and I say this with no hyperbole, like a motor swap. The bike doesn’t make much more peak horsepower with one, maybe 2 or 3, but the power that it does make is so much more usable from idle to redline. It’s unreal and no one believes it until they ride one that is dialed in. The one downside (and it’s only maybe a downside depending on how you like to ride) is that a full exhaust and FCR make the bike much more rev-happy and you will lose that way down low tractor pull somewhat. But you trade it for a bike that pulls straight to the rev limiter instead of falling on its face like the stock pipe and carb do. If you like snapping the throttle open and pulling wheelies at 1500 rpm, that kind of goes away and gets traded for power wheelies at 8,000 rpm instead. Cost: cheap If you go used on eBay. Pricey if you go sudco/thumpertalk or other pre-setup places Process: you will need to adjust it to your particular bike no matter what. The eBay route will obviously require a set of jets and AP bleed jets and will require some test and tube sessions to get right. If you haven’t done the manual cam chain tensioner yet, do it when/before you do the FCR. It’s gonna spend way more time at redline than before. Difficulty: not hard. Just time consuming. Read all the threads on thumpertalk about it. They’ll get you 99% of the way. Value: huge. Do this before you open the engine looking for more power. It will take full advantage of your 3x3 and exhaust. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 02:19
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That's the perfect answer, thank you so much. New carb here I come!
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Jun 9, 2020 02:28
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Yes, I’ve done two now, on both the DRZ’s I’ve owned. Did you ever look at buying from here? http://www.keihin-fcr.com/ the website is kind of ghetto, but they offer refurbed ones as well as new ones. it looks like they list on ebay too so can't be too bad? Looking around cause TT is backordered until July
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Jun 9, 2020 17:10
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I have ordered parts form there, but never an entire carb
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Jun 9, 2020 18:44
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Successfully got the gixxer started with the help of a 100 ohm resistor #BuiltNotBought 
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Jun 9, 2020 18:59
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How good are the fairings on street bikes like Ninja's, CBRs, etc. at interstate speeds? I've only ever owned standards / tourers with huge windscreens or a 80s Nighthawk with a little bikini fairing. Most of my riding would likely be at 70 MPH, and I'm concerned that a little street bike fairing will just give me a sore neck. I'm 6' if it matters. e: Should also ask, how difficult do folks find endurance at interstate speeds / wind on street bikes? The riding position looks uncomfortable for extended periods of time. tokenbrownguy fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 19:51
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MomJeans420 posted:Successfully got the gixxer started
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Jun 9, 2020 19:57
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tokenbrownguy posted:How good are the fairings on street bikes like Ninja's, CBRs, etc. at interstate speeds? I've only ever owned standards / tourers with huge windscreens or a 80s Nighthawk with a little bikini fairing. Most of my riding would likely be at 70 MPH, and I'm concerned that a little street bike fairing will just give me a sore neck. I'm 6' if it matters. sport bike fairings only really work in full tuck. and yes the position is tiring and uncomfortable. that's why we buy super nakeds  cause gently caress it, may as well be comfortable with a thicc necc
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Jun 9, 2020 19:59
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tokenbrownguy posted:How good are the fairings on street bikes like Ninja's, CBRs, etc. at interstate speeds? I've only ever owned standards / tourers with huge windscreens or a 80s Nighthawk with a little bikini fairing. Most of my riding would likely be at 70 MPH, and I'm concerned that a little street bike fairing will just give me a sore neck. I'm 6' if it matters. A normal naked standard should be fine up to 70-75mph, stretching at the next fuel stop. Any higher than that, you're going to want to tuck out of the wind after a while, or to go any faster if you're only making like 50hp.
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Jun 9, 2020 19:59
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The answer to both of those is "it depends", both on the bike itself and how you fit on it. You can always buy larger/smaller aftermarket windscreens and bar risers/lower footpegs to change the riding position on any bike. I never found a windscreen for my FZ1 that didn't bounce my head around on the highway without tucking in. Had the same issue with the two "winter" screens I have for my Multistrada until I bought an add-on "visor" like this one. I've found I prefer small screens that keep the wind blast off of your chest but leave your helmet in clean air. Most everything else will cause some level of turbulence unless you have something the size/shape of a barn door strapped to the front of your bike.
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Jun 9, 2020 20:04
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Yeah, i'm 5'9" and the seller of my FZ1 had an 'extended windscreen' that I ended up never picking up (lyfted to the sale and rode it home) and honestly I've never even thought about it. It was so loving enormous lol Really if i ever swap the stock one i kinda just want a double bubble, they seem good
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Jun 9, 2020 20:23
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No complaints on my Ninja 650. I put an aftermarket double bubble on there but more for the darker aesthetics than for need of actual wind protection. I won’t say it hasn’t helped a little, but the stock windscreen seemed fine IMO. I ran the double-bubble at medium height for a while before moving it back down to “sporty” mode. The more vertical you put the windscreen the goofier it looks on a Ninja, and the protection wasn’t significantly better. E: Assuming the tire doesn’t catastrophically shred, what is the sensation of developing a flat tire on your ride? What do you feel/how does it present? some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Jun 9, 2020 |
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Jun 9, 2020 21:20
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