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Harvey Mantaco posted:Its honestly borderline cheaty. I use it on terrain (ex:). And color-shift paint on the pillars? That's really nice, I need to give that a try.
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Jun 12, 2020 19:18
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Harvey Mantaco posted:*loving rad tutorial*
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Jun 12, 2020 19:24
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tangy yet delightful posted:thanks, adding some kabalite green to my next shopping list, and I guess some nuln oil gloss too! Just to clarify, when you're dabbing lighter layers you want to dab all over, don't just aim for the places that already have paint like you normally do when you're building up paint gradients. Good luck 👍.
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Jun 12, 2020 19:29
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My Carnifex rider is very nearly done, and really pleased with it! All the dots were exceptionally time consuming but I think it's come out pretty well in the end. Used the coconut crab scheme that's floating around as a basis but wanted a slightly more gradual set of transitions. Unfortunately this basically meant doing a thousand times more dots than I originally thought was needed. Once the base is finished I'll do a very selective gloss of various bits and possibly touch up some of the rust. Overall though, I'm calling this 99% done! Good lockdown project - another one made out of cannibalised bits of metal hive tyrant and trash from the bits box is on the list.  
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Jun 12, 2020 20:12
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I haven't had any citadel paints totally dry up in the pot, but I do notice some of them have thickened over time, as in they no wonder flow around inside the pot. Is adding a drop of distilled water back into the pot and shaking it well with a bean inside something that people do?
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Jun 12, 2020 20:18
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lenoon posted:My Carnifex rider is very nearly done, and really pleased with it! All the dots were exceptionally time consuming but I think it's come out pretty well in the end. Used the coconut crab scheme that's floating around as a basis but wanted a slightly more gradual set of transitions. Unfortunately this basically meant doing a thousand times more dots than I originally thought was needed. Once the base is finished I'll do a very selective gloss of various bits and possibly touch up some of the rust. Overall though, I'm calling this 99% done! This is fantastic!
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Jun 12, 2020 20:39
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Booyah- posted:I haven't had any citadel paints totally dry up in the pot, but I do notice some of them have thickened over time, as in they no wonder flow around inside the pot. Is adding a drop of distilled water back into the pot and shaking it well with a bean inside something that people do? Water or matte medium will work. I assume you meant to type bead, as I don't think a bean would do so well inside paint, but you probably should just put a bead in every pot of opened paint you have.
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Jun 12, 2020 21:21
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Practicing tiny faces https://imgur.com/gallery/rYokuZ9 I like how it came out, now for the rest of his body.
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Jun 12, 2020 21:26
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Slimnoid posted:Water or matte medium will work. I assume you meant to type bead, as I don't think a bean would do so well inside paint, but you probably should just put a bead in every pot of opened paint you have. yep that's what I do, hematite bead goes in and I paint part of the lid with the paint inside
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Jun 12, 2020 21:27
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I painted some Kobold adventurers, in classic D&D dragon colors! They're all cute, but my favorite is Lil' Green.      I got 80% through painting his robes before I realized I'd accidentally made Dende. So I stuck a ball of green stuff on the end of his club and painted it like a Dragonball. 
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Jun 12, 2020 21:32
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Does it matter what kind of plastic beads can be used in pots? Or should I cut up bits of sprue for it?
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Jun 12, 2020 21:37
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Yeast posted:This is so gooood TotalHell posted:Well that was 18 months very well spent. It’s gorgeous. DrDraxium posted:Good god that's beautiful. I've always had dreams of putting a knight in as a possible bit of my one-day AdMech army and this colour scheme is almost exactly what I'd imagined. Those hazard stripes fit so well! Oh wow  Please excuse me whilst I melt into a puddle 
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Jun 12, 2020 22:27
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cross-postinHixson posted:I'm considering doing a re-paint of all my old eldar. Threw together a Mymeara tester:
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Jun 12, 2020 22:39
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Hell yeah!
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Jun 12, 2020 22:49
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Spanish Manlove posted:Does it matter what kind of plastic beads can be used in pots? Or should I cut up bits of sprue for it? I don’t consider that sprue has anywhere near enough heft to mix paint. Before I invested in some ball bearings I used nuts, bolts, or screws.
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Jun 12, 2020 22:54
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Hixson posted:cross-postin Love it, nice mix of airbrush and weathering and the colors are fantastic. Get a bit of edge highlighting and maybe a bit of highlights near the weathering and you're golden. The runes being black blend in a bit with the panel lines, maybe try white? Or some sort of outline/highlight.
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Jun 12, 2020 23:03
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Spanish Manlove posted:Does it matter what kind of plastic beads can be used in pots? Or should I cut up bits of sprue for it? Buy glass beads or hematite beads, plastic just doesn't have enough weight.
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Jun 12, 2020 23:03
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Spanish Manlove posted:Hell yeah! Cinara posted:Love it, nice mix of airbrush and weathering and the colors are fantastic. Get a bit of edge highlighting and maybe a bit of highlights near the weathering and you're golden. Thanks folks. Good critiques. Yeah the sponging will for sure get a highlight. I prefer the runes black; I may blend them up to a grey or something though.
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Jun 12, 2020 23:17
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Cinara posted:Buy glass beads or hematite beads, plastic just doesn't have enough weight. Cool, didn't know. I'll check those out.
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Jun 12, 2020 23:22
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Spanish Manlove posted:Cool, didn't know. I'll check those out. If you can wait a month I ordered like 500 ball bearings off of AliExpress for like $2
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Jun 13, 2020 00:23
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I’ve had problems with metal rusting though.
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Jun 13, 2020 02:30
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Yea you have to be careful with metal and rust, that's why I recommended glass or hematite as both are completely safe. Make sure you get real hematite though, it's easy to test as it won't be magnetic at all.
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Jun 13, 2020 02:41
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Gameko posted:I’ve had problems with metal rusting though. 316 stainless is what you want, or glass beads.
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Jun 13, 2020 05:59
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If I notice mold lines after the primer can I just scrape them off and then fill in the gaps with paint or...?
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Jun 13, 2020 06:48
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TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Neat post! Do you have pics of trying out those vibrant colors? I whipped up a quick example of the pink, as that's one of the colors that most other lines never quite get right. I don't have any GW paints, but I used VGC Squid Pink, Warlord Purple and Scale 75 Magenta which next to these colors looks red. I actually had a tough time getting my camera to even capture the color due to how it reflects light. It's far more vibrant than it even shows in the picture, it makes the the Squid Pink look colorless and the Warlord purple look almost dark. It's naturally very gloss so I had to throw a coat of matte varnish over it to even take a picture at all, but even then any direct light made it almost white to my phone's camera.  In order that's Scale75 Magenta, Warlord Purple, Golden Fluorescent Pink, Squid Pink, all over a white basecoat. The biggest thing to note is that they are all incredibly thin right out of the bottle, better used as a glaze if you're brush painting them. But this actually works wonderfully as this pink is so beyond pink that putting it as a color by itself would look out of place on most minis. Instead you can use it to highlight your pinks and make them almost glow.
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Jun 13, 2020 10:50
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Thanks for all the info on your pinks. I’m working on a pink-haired color scheme for my sisters of battle and I’ve been trying to find a good highlight color. I’ll pick up some of this fluorescent pink.
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Jun 13, 2020 12:47
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CODChimera posted:If I notice mold lines after the primer can I just scrape them off and then fill in the gaps with paint or...? Yeah, pretty much, though it'll be a bit more likely to flake off there. Personally I'd touch it up with brush-on gesso but I always prime with brush-on gesso
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Jun 13, 2020 14:57
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I finished up the Annihilation Barge from the necrons SC!
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Jun 13, 2020 15:30
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R0ckfish posted:I finished up the Annihilation Barge from the necrons SC! Does this model normally have a third guy on the top behind the gun?
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Jun 13, 2020 15:33
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Schadenboner posted:Does this model normally have a third guy on the top behind the gun? Nah, that's an alt of this kit. There's the annihilation barge that has the cannon and then there's the command barge which has an overlord riding it like a chariot (it's pretty easy to magnetize for quickswaps) 
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Jun 13, 2020 15:37
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Got a few things to share...different hobby projects finished over the last few days. These are all Blood Angels I made with my kid. A few units of angels. This is a hodge podge of guys we finished up. A few more are painted but need basing. My kid got interested in a narrative theme for his army and decided his chapter is involved in a long war of attrition with plague marines on some backwater world the enemy was essentially using as a waste dump. He wants to do muddy waste themed bases mixed with some of the ones like below...the ones below representing the areas the Blood Angels have reclaimed and cleaned up.  My kid was really digging the warhammer scenery sets so we got a few. Painted up munitions boxes and things.  Of course, nothing is more important after a hard day's slaughter than having a little bonfire with roasted varmint and yellow stew. These camp miniatures come from Paizo.  Our original purchase for Space Marines was the Blood Angels start collecting box and I just finished up the Predator. Main reason I decided to post all this.  I've also painted some sector imperialis scenery but I didn't love the photos I got as they were too close so you couldn't get a look at the whole model. I'll click a few other pics and share them later. I had a LOT more fun painting the sector imperialis scenery than I thought I would, but I sure wouldn't recommend doing it without an air brush.
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Jun 13, 2020 19:26
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How viable is it to use this technique on large surfaces, as on vehicles? Ever since the admech hover tank was released, I've wanted to turn it into a candy-apple red 50's hot-rod, but contrast paints are supposedly best used on detailed surfaces, and other techniques pretty much require air-brushes.
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Jun 13, 2020 21:10
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inscrutable horse posted:How viable is it to use this technique on large surfaces, as on vehicles? Ever since the admech hover tank was released, I've wanted to turn it into a candy-apple red 50's hot-rod, but contrast paints are supposedly best used on detailed surfaces, and other techniques pretty much require air-brushes. You'd most likely need to use an airbrush, even with contrast over metallics on vehicles. Using a brush, you'd need to be quick and somehow get good coverage without streaking or it wanting to pool randomly. It could be passable, but probably wouldn't turn out as smooth as you'd want.
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Jun 13, 2020 21:37
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Yeah, I was afraid of that. Oh well, I’ll save that particular project until less financially strapped times.
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Jun 13, 2020 21:53
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With quarantine and the constant stress of society I've been looking for a new hobby. Thanks to a late night YouTube hole I saw a bunch of miniature painting videos and decided I wanted to try it. I bought some cheap brushes and the Army Painter starter paint set and primed the minis from the Fallout board game to give it a shot before really investing. Well, I think I'm hooked. I'm not very good at all, but found it relaxing and very satisfying to go through the process. These were painted in order from left to right and I actually see that I improved in each one. I cannot paint eyes at all though. Now I have a decision to make. I prefer fantasy and there's a decent Age of Sigmar community in my area. I love the look and play style of the Seraphon and think I would enjoy painting and eventually playing with them. But the 40k 9th edition narrative campaign stuff sounds awesome. I'm not as interested in far future super soldiers, but the smaller initial investment and storytelling is so appealing. Ugh.
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Jun 13, 2020 22:51
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seventimessix posted:Now I have a decision to make. I prefer fantasy and there's a decent Age of Sigmar community in my area. I love the look and play style of the Seraphon and think I would enjoy painting and eventually playing with them. But the 40k 9th edition narrative campaign stuff sounds awesome. I'm not as interested in far future super soldiers, but the smaller initial investment and storytelling is so appealing. Ugh. Seeing as we have no idea how good the new Crusade stuff in 40k will be, I'd err on the side of caution and go for the stuff that directly appeals to you. Liking the setting and lore makes a colossal difference. Especially when you hit a low point and can't quite find the enthusiasm to paint that extra band of space marines. I reckon you'd be happier with Sigmar if that's what seems coolest.
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Jun 13, 2020 22:57
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What sounds cooler to you: Lizardmen from beyond the stars riding dinosaurs, or space fascists? (Hint: its the lizardmen)
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Jun 13, 2020 23:20
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Please excuse the awful photo. These were part of the first kit I ever bought and I assembled them without really understanding the ins and outs of painting. Got tired of screwing up the details, so I blasted them with nuln oil and shall go slinking back to marines (both loyal and traitor). Anyone have advice for how to deal with the really thin, highly-detailed models? 
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Jun 14, 2020 02:18
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Does anyone here have any experience with using glow in the dark paints on miniatures? I’m a sucker for glow in the dark poo poo, and I’m looking to paint up the Nighthaunt Warcry box so the spooky ghosts glow in the dark as a side gimmick.
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Jun 14, 2020 02:53
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Xenomrph posted:Does anyone here have any experience with using glow in the dark paints on miniatures? I’m a sucker for glow in the dark poo poo, and I’m looking to paint up the Nighthaunt Warcry box so the spooky ghosts glow in the dark as a side gimmick. They're inconsistent and patchy in my experience, I've tried them for BattleMech cockpits. They won't give you a solid glow because the glow-in-the-dark pigments themselves tend to be quite large and need very heavy coats in order to give even a semi-consistent glow. I find they're nice to add to water effects but I haven't found any that work particularly well. The ones that glow in tints tend to be a lot dimmer than the normal "glow-in-the-dark-green" pigment, and the ones that "apply clear" don't start to glow appreciably until they're so thick they start to frost the colors I painted underneath. I tried a 'white glow' on a test mini and couldn't get anything better than patchwork coverage. I've done the blue glow on a Bandai Super Star Destroyer, but in order to get that glow semi-consistent I needed somewhere between eight and ten layers.   So I can't recommend them for minis. What I can recommend them for is bases.  
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Jun 14, 2020 03:30
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