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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
I got a model which has an optional sliding arm which I've left out for now, since it's £600. I can always buy it later. It does come with a sliding mitre fence though, I think.
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Jun 10, 2020 17:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:I got a model which has an optional sliding arm which I've left out for now, since it's £600. I can always buy it later. They pretty much all come with a sliding miter gauge of some caliber.
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Jun 10, 2020 19:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:They pretty much all come with a sliding miter gauge of some caliber. Not one that runs in the T-slots, though.
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Jun 10, 2020 19:57
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Jaded Burnout posted:Not one that runs in the T-slots, though. Dude what do you think the whole point of the T-slots is. are you trolling?
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Jun 10, 2020 20:02
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dude what do you think the whole point of the T-slots is. T-slots have a variety of uses, as any machinist will tell you. I use mine mainly for clamping. However, after checking the manual, what I was referring to was just a bad photo that made it look like the mitre fence shared the tracks for the sliding carriage, which doesn't use the slots in the way normal mitre gauges do.
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Jun 10, 2020 20:09
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Can I just buy whole logs for woodturning? Blanks from specialist woodturning blank stores seem very expensive and there is a local tree surgeon that will sell me whole logs by the bag load at a fraction of the price. I
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Jun 10, 2020 21:11
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Vier posted:Can I just buy whole logs for woodturning? Blanks from specialist woodturning blank stores seem very expensive and there is a local tree surgeon that will sell me whole logs by the bag load at a fraction of the price. How do you think they make the blanks? Of course you can, just cut them down to size with a saw or something before you start turning it. I imagine all the bark shrapnel would be a little more obnoxious than the regular material. Just know that the logs will not have been dried, so you're using wetter wood, but I don't think that's actually a problem for the most part when turning.
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Jun 10, 2020 21:23
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Jhet posted:How do you think they make the blanks? Of course you can, just cut them down to size with a saw or something before you start turning it. I imagine all the bark shrapnel would be a little more obnoxious than the regular material. Just know that the logs will not have been dried, so you're using wetter wood, but I don't think that's actually a problem for the most part when turning. I was unsure if there was a lot of additional work that would be required, I just watched a youtube video and it seems I need to cut them down, rough turn them, seal them for a few months, and then finish them off.
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Jun 10, 2020 21:37
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Vier posted:Can I just buy whole logs for woodturning? Blanks from specialist woodturning blank stores seem very expensive and there is a local tree surgeon that will sell me whole logs by the bag load at a fraction of the price. If you know a guy that does a tree service you're set but mostly you just have to keep an eye out. You can buy logs but they usually won't be any cheaper, in fact they will be more expensive unless you pick them up from a portable sawmill yourself because shipping things that large is expensive. Get whatever you can and cut it to size with a chainsaw then seal the end grain with a wax sealer like Anchorseal or they will split and crack as they dry. When you cut them into blanks pay attention to the direction of the grain vs your cut as this will impact how the blank behaves when you turn it. Then you have to decide if you want to turn it while green or dry it first. Drying without a kiln can take a long time, which is sped up if you turn it first then dry it. You can also buy green blanks from a number of sources usually at a discount over dry blanks. Jhet posted:How do you think they make the blanks? Of course you can, just cut them down to size with a saw or something before you start turning it. I imagine all the bark shrapnel would be a little more obnoxious than the regular material. Just know that the logs will not have been dried, so you're using wetter wood, but I don't think that's actually a problem for the most part when turning. Bark isn't bad with a roughing gouge. Green turning is easier to cut but the wood is more prone to tearing. It'll also gunk your tools with pitch that needs acetone/mineral spirits/turpentine to clean and some woods will stain your hands/clothes when you work it. Mostly, it's hard to find wood that hasn't cracked or started rotting before you got to it, storing it for drying can be a hassle if you're hard up for space, and you'll lose some number of pieces that you turn green because they will split or warp while drying more Edit: Vier posted:I was unsure if there was a lot of additional work that would be required, I just watched a youtube video and it seems I need to cut them down, rough turn them, seal them for a few months, and then finish them off. The junk collector fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 21:53
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Also, species of wood matters, like, a lot. Some wood is just totally unsuited to turning, or even to woodworking in general. Don't just assume any old log you come across will work.
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Jun 10, 2020 23:03
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A wedge and sledge or splitting maul is good to have around too. Logs split in half will not only dry a little faster, but also don't check nearly as badly as logs in the round. Some sort of sealant on the end grain is still a good idea. Bark usually has alot of dirt in it which will dull your tools pretty quickly. Kind of hard to say if it takes longer to do more sharpening or do more debarking. Turning green wood is amazing and fun. It mostly turns like butter and you get huuuuuuuuuuuuge shavings 10' long.
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Jun 11, 2020 02:09
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Anyone know of a good place to source project wood from near Boston?
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Jun 12, 2020 00:29
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Anyone know of a good place to source project wood from near Boston? Woodcraft in Walpole. I keep an eye out on Craigslist for random poo poo too.
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Jun 12, 2020 02:10
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Done my latest boxes. Carpathian elm burl and waterfall bubinga. Still need to snap some nice photos with my actual camera, but these will do for now. The elm really popped under a finish, it was pretty dull before the finish but there's some nice colourings which I really like.     
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Jun 12, 2020 02:35
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Anyone know of a good place to source project wood from near Boston? There’s a rockler in Cambridge near Davis Sq
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Jun 12, 2020 02:49
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Done my latest boxes. Carpathian elm burl and waterfall bubinga. Still need to snap some nice photos with my actual camera, but these will do for now. The elm really popped under a finish, it was pretty dull before the finish but there's some nice colourings which I really like. Man those are fine! You got a great match on the bubinga turning all those corners. How did you do the shagreen? I've never worked with it but it sure looks sharp. There is some cool french art deco stuff where they covered whole nightstands and dressing tables and poo poo in it. E: What is your order of operations as far as building the boxes? Do you build the box and then veneer it or are you building the box out of veneered stock? Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jun 12, 2020 |
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Jun 12, 2020 03:02
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Man those are fine! You got a great match on the bubinga turning all those corners. Thanks! I had to look up shagreen as I had never heard of it before. These boxes are lined with sued which looks almost exactly the same. Next time I do it I'll make an  post with pictures, but here's the general process. It involves cardstock and a transfer adhesive, which is essentially double sided tape that is 12" wide. Cut a piece of cardstock to size so it fits where you want your lining, then apply the transfer adhesive to both sides. Then use one sticky side to stick to the suede, then use the second sticky side to stick to where you want it lined. That's the general process, there's a bit more like folding over the edges nicely, but it's really quite simple.To answer your second question, it depends, but generally I prefer to veneer then assemble as it lets me use my vacuum press and veneer a bunch of faces at once (I don't really have enough clamps to do more than one face at a time using clamps). The construction is 1/2" baltic birch with rabbets at the corners. I always veneer the interior before assembling. The elm box was fully veneered before assembling as the hardwood edging hides the exposed ply on the corners. The bubinga box needed to be veneered after assembly so that the exposed ply could be hidden by the veneer. Then once all the faces are veneered and edges done I cut the boxes open and veneer the exposed edges using clamps and cauls. Hope that makes sense. It's a ton of steps and glue-ups really so they're crappy projects when you have a chunk of uninterrupted time like a couple hours, but perfect for picking away at, 30-45 minutes a night to clean up the previous glue-up and do another.
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Jun 12, 2020 03:51
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dude what do you think the whole point of the T-slots is. The makers of my saw trolled me, loving dovetail slots.
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Jun 12, 2020 06:52
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Me, sanding my countertop: 'man, I forgot how long sanding takes, this sucks.' *checks the grit of the sandpaper that was still in the machine I'm using* 180. Oh. 
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Jun 12, 2020 09:25
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shut up blegum posted:Me, sanding my countertop: 'man, I forgot how long sanding takes, this sucks.' That is the far superior option to the potentially terrible opposite situation..
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Jun 12, 2020 16:39
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His Divine Shadow posted:The makers of my saw trolled me, loving dovetail slots. Lmao. That's kinda cool though. Miter gauge won't even buck up out of there, will it. shut up blegum posted:Me, sanding my countertop: 'man, I forgot how long sanding takes, this sucks.' LMAOOOO. Thanks for the haha, belge.
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Jun 12, 2020 17:00
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shut up blegum posted:Me, sanding my countertop: 'man, I forgot how long sanding takes, this sucks.' For a moment I was afraid you were going to say there was no sand paper in the machine. People have confused the hook and loop pads on the Festools sanders for "grit" at my makerspace 
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Jun 12, 2020 19:09
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JEEVES420 posted:For a moment I was afraid you were going to say there was no sand paper in the machine. I bet they cost like $50 each too since they say FESTOOL
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Jun 12, 2020 19:12
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I bet they cost like $50 each too since they say FESTOOL Yup, there is an on going debate in the committee about high end hand tools vs. cheaper "learning" tools. Makerspaces are great places to learn but in no ways a classroom setting or fully supervised so stuff gets abused regularly. The K-pax saw went less than 2 weeks before it broke, and after the 6th or 7th time in less than 6 months "out for repair" it was replaced with a cheaper miter saw.
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Jun 12, 2020 19:22
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Interesting comparison of my local market: I grabbed a sheet of 4x8 birch plywood at the lumber yard closest to my house, and it was $45, which is $10 cheaper than HD, and it’s 9 or 10 ply compared to the HD 5 ply. The HD stuff actually seems to have a thicker veneer though, the Lumber yard sheet is really paper thin. I got it home and after inspecting it some more, decided I would try to get a nicer sheet at a more reputable lumber yard a bit further from my house. So I went there and checked out the sheets, and they did seem somewhat nicer, so I bought one for $65. When I got home and put them next to each other they were actually pretty similar, and then I noticed they were both stamped “AFL-IKE Made in Vietnam.” So they are literally from the same supplier, and one just cost $20 more because that place caters more to tradesman and hobbyists a and the first one sells mostly to local construction.
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Jun 12, 2020 20:56
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Jun 12, 2020 22:29
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Elysium posted:Interesting comparison of my local market: I grabbed a sheet of 4x8 birch plywood at the lumber yard closest to my house, and it was $45, which is $10 cheaper than HD, and it’s 9 or 10 ply compared to the HD 5 ply. The HD stuff actually seems to have a thicker veneer though, the Lumber yard sheet is really paper thin. I got it home and after inspecting it some more, decided I would try to get a nicer sheet at a more reputable lumber yard a bit further from my house. So I went there and checked out the sheets, and they did seem somewhat nicer, so I bought one for $65. When I got home and put them next to each other they were actually pretty similar, and then I noticed they were both stamped “AFL-IKE Made in Vietnam.” So they are literally from the same supplier, and one just cost $20 more because that place caters more to tradesman and hobbyists a and the first one sells mostly to local construction. Its not as simple as that. One yard might buy 20,000 sheets a month. The other buys 2,000 sheets a month. Same material, same supplier, 2 vastly different buy prices for them and a different sell price for you. I tend to buy sheet material from chain builders yards for this reason since they can drive the cost down ridiculously low by bulk purchasing. Also sheets will have different grades and still come from the same place. That's not even getting into places that buy material from each other as they're simply unable to meet the minimums required to get product from source.
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Jun 12, 2020 23:20
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Elysium posted:Interesting comparison of my local market: I grabbed a sheet of 4x8 birch plywood at the lumber yard closest to my house, and it was $45, which is $10 cheaper than HD, and it’s 9 or 10 ply compared to the HD 5 ply. The HD stuff actually seems to have a thicker veneer though, the Lumber yard sheet is really paper thin. I got it home and after inspecting it some more, decided I would try to get a nicer sheet at a more reputable lumber yard a bit further from my house. So I went there and checked out the sheets, and they did seem somewhat nicer, so I bought one for $65. When I got home and put them next to each other they were actually pretty similar, and then I noticed they were both stamped “AFL-IKE Made in Vietnam.” So they are literally from the same supplier, and one just cost $20 more because that place caters more to tradesman and hobbyists a and the first one sells mostly to local construction. In addition to what serious gaylord said, I think most of the 'Made in Vietnam' birch plywood we very suddenly started seeing after China got tariffed is in fact made in china and stamped 'made in Vietnam' and shipped out of Vietnam and now its Vietnambirch instead of chinabirch! The reason the face veneer is so thin is because they are terrible at quality control (look at the side and notice all the overlapped plys and voids) and so they just sand the poo poo out of the two faces to get it all in spec. The glue isn't great either, and it splits much worse when screwed than Baltic birch. I don't think they dry the veneers very well either because it tends to be fairly warped and I have had sheets be badly out of square on the factory edges. I thankfully haven't had that problem in a few years so maybe QC has improved. Was not fun chopping up 5 sheets of ply to find out all my parts were just enough out of square to be a nightmare. Sorry OP I didn't meant to poo poo on your plywood. Its not great, but it is cheaper than the 'birch' (that's not actually usually birch? Usually a poplar core with a real thin birch face veneer)HD etc sells, and it paints up fine. Probably stiffer then the 5ply HD stuff since it has so many more plies, but it sure isn't baltic birch, but it also doesn't cost the BB price. If you want really good birch plywood, ask for baltic/russian birch. Just asking for 'birch plywood' will usually get you chinabirch. Anywhere that supplies cabinet shops should have both.
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Jun 13, 2020 02:36
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I was given an old coffee table that needs a lot of help. I'm going to have to remove a bunch of metal hardware and some drawers and refinish basically the whole thing. The big question I have is about the top. It looks like it has an epoxy or resin layer maybe 2 or 3 mm thick that has cracked in several places. How the hell do I get that off the table? Is there a solvent that will strip it, or am I stuck trying to scrape it off?
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Jun 13, 2020 04:41
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So I went and snagged that Delta 14" bandsaw. He even threw in 5 unopened Olson blades  So the saw, riser kit, kreg fence, kreg miter gauge and blades for $275  I'm not sure he ever used it... His whole basement was all delta machines with zero dust or wear on anything. I think it was a woodworking midlife crisis shop It's so much nicer than the old rear end craftsman 12" tilt head bandsaw I've been using for the past 3 years The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 05:19
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Mr. Mambold posted:Lmao. That's kinda cool though. Miter gauge won't even buck up out of there, will it. I don't have one, they want sick amounts of money for one. But I have a sliding table. I took a router to one of the slots and cut down the sides a little for a flat reference surface, so I do have a sort of t-slot...
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Jun 13, 2020 06:38
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Welcome to wholesale vs retail! A local, fairly large hardwood sawmill and drying yard has a retail side-they also sell to the distributor I buy most of my wood from. I can buy their wood substantially cheaper at my distributor than they will sell it to me at the mill gate. I'm seeing a lot more Eucalyptus faced ply than I used to in the UK. Its imo just as nice as Birch but a slightly more yellow colour with a lovely grain pattern. Im going to use a lot more of it. And a big thank you to the people that posted about Sketchup. I had no idea there was still a free version and I was debating about picking it up as I have a fairly substantial project to build which I was sketching out on paper and tearing my hair out when I have to move measurements etc. Its been a revelation. We are completely renovating our house and the lounge had an awful diy archway knocked between it and another room which was just tall enough for me to walk under, and in no way safe. So we knocked the crazy gremlin peoples archway down and were intending on just putting up a proper dividing wall in its place as my wife wants to keep a secure room that the dog/future children won't be able to get into for her sewing projects. That has now turned into a built in bookcase arrangement in place of said wall.  With the proposed colour scheme of the room a light wood would work best, and since I love Ash thats what its going to be. I'm going to build it out of 12 and 18mm ply, faced with Ash veneer. Trim and doors will be solid Ash, with a walnut inlay design that is to be confirmed. Shelving layout is temporary until the wife has decided just what she wants to put on them and in what layout. But how do you access the other room you ask? Well I was just going to put a door in the middle like a normal person, but the wife suggested something a little more idiotic, and I loved the idea of it.  I've built a few doors in my time but nothing quite like this. A door with a bookcase on the front needs a fair bit of clearance to swing in which has gave me a headache working out how to get it to shut and remain 'hidden' and is the reason the vertical trim is so wide. It needs about 90mm of space to swing freely. A 45 degree mitre on the trim and a matching piece on the door then but up against each other when closed to (in theory) act as a door jam and locking mechanism in one. The trim on the other side and top also act as door jams. Speaking of the locking mechanism, haven't quite finalised the open/close feature yet. Wife is demanding a book for the classic touch. I'm thinking a sculpture with a hidden button ala 60's Batman. Wife will probably win. I've also designed a break through point in the cupboards at the bottom for emergency access should the door lock fail where there will only be a 6mm thick bit of ply that I can smash through and crawl to the other side then replace. I've done my research on these and that seems to be the thing a lot of people forget and then have to take out most of the bookcase to remedy. I'm quite excited about building this, just need to get the rest of the room up to the point where I can go hog wild.
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Jun 13, 2020 12:08
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When y'all are routing a 180º radius on the edge of a board, what's your process for setting the correct depth on the cutter? I'm having trouble getting the top and bottom arcs to meet cleanly.
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Jun 13, 2020 12:12
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serious gaylord posted:I'm seeing a lot more Eucalyptus faced ply than I used to in the UK. Its imo just as nice as Birch but a slightly more yellow colour with a lovely grain pattern. Im going to use a lot more of it. I don't remember the details but I do remember watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3NGBo2M1Ps
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Jun 13, 2020 12:13
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Jaded Burnout posted:When y'all are routing a 180º radius on the edge of a board, what's your process for setting the correct depth on the cutter? A router table with a bullnose bit like this is the fastest and easiest but least flexible: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005W180N6?tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1 I wouldn't try and do it all in one pass with one of those. You have to set the fence up just right or you will get snipe on the outfeed end. You can also do it by running a pass on each corner with a quarter round bit, but you have to leave a small flat to run against the fence or for the bearing of the bit to ride on. Then sand the flat out later. If you have a router table, the flat can be almost nothing. Without one it needs to be wider for the bearing to run on.
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Jun 13, 2020 13:13
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can also do it by running a pass on each corner with a quarter round bit, but you have to leave a small flat to run against the fence or for the bearing of the bit to ride on. Then sand the flat out later. If you have a router table, the flat can be almost nothing. Without one it needs to be wider for the bearing to run on. That does make sense, in that I saw more consistency on my first attempt where there was a small flat that I filed off pretty easily (I don't have a router table), and it seemed to get more inconsistent when I tried tightening up the cut, which makes sense when the roller would by definition be below the curve on the second pass. I might go with my initial instincts for the depth, then, and use a fence clamped to the piece to nullify the roller, since I'm going to need a fence to avoid sniping either end of the cut anyway.
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Jun 13, 2020 13:59
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Always work long when you're using a router if you can. Much easier to cut your pieces long, rout then cut them down afterwards than trying to fix snipe.
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Jun 13, 2020 14:45
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serious gaylord posted:Always work long when you're using a router if you can. Much easier to cut your pieces long, rout then cut them down afterwards than trying to fix snipe. Not a bad call, thanks. This is a test piece so technically I can cut off the ends if need be. But so far the snipe has been from me rounding the corners at either end, so hopefully that'll go away when using a fence. We will see!
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Jun 13, 2020 14:47
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I've seriously beat up the baby bosch ROS20VSC, I loved it a lot but it's time to get a new one. Looking at the vibrations on the bigger ROS65VC, seems like a big upgrade as I tend to overwork myself after a few hours on the 20VSC. Any thoughts on this? I like to use my tools a little before buying them but unfortunately I cant right now. A lot of my work is on curves on sculpture if that changes your answer to a different sander. My price range is under $300. If there is something better out there I'm missing I'm all ears; I was leaning away from festool because I have easy access to bulk sandpaper and wasnt sure it was worth buying into their system. Dust collection is very low priority for me This one might be better for the tool thread but any arborists out there who can speak on ms192-ms194 with a dime tip? Seems pretty sweet Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 16:47
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I've seriously beat up the baby bosch ROS20VSC, I loved it a lot but it's time to get a new one. Looking at the vibrations on the bigger ROS65VC, seems like a big upgrade as I tend to overwork myself after a few hours on the 20VSC. Any thoughts on this? I like to use my tools a little before buying them but unfortunately I cant right now. A lot of my work is on curves on sculpture if that changes your answer to a different sander. My price range is under $300. If there is something better out there I'm missing I'm all ears; I was leaning away from festool because I have easy access to bulk sandpaper and wasnt sure it was worth buying into their system. Dust collection is very low priority for me I love my Ridgid 6” orbital sander and it is awesome and makes flat stuff soooooo much faster than a 5”, but I don’t think it would be a good fit for curved stuff unless it is very large with very smooth curves. On the outside of a boat it would be awesome, on a human sized sculpture I think it might be useless. It is MUCH heavier than the 5” Bosch and is definitely a 2 hander. I think it would wear you out working vertically. It also tends to jerk around and catch on rounded stuff a little more than the smaller one because it is more powerful? The Bosch 5” you have is the best one I have used (though I have never touched anything Festool). The dust collection on my 6” Ridgid is also terrible-I’m not sure if that’s because it makes a ton more dust faster or if it’s just a badly designed tool. Again I’ve never touched a Festool, but I have come to the conclusion that small orbital sanders are basically consumable with a ~2yr lifespan because I’ve never had one that kept doing a good job for longer than that.
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Jun 13, 2020 17:05
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