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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I love my Ridgid 6” orbital sander and it is awesome and makes flat stuff soooooo much faster than a 5”, but I don’t think it would be a good fit for curved stuff unless it is very large with very smooth curves. On the outside of a boat it would be awesome, on a human sized sculpture I think it might be useless. drat I knew this deep down.. I was really looking forward to half the vibrations but double the weight would be tiring as well. What does 2.5kg even weigh anyway. I guess the solution is finding ways to break up multi hour sessions The catching part makes sense as well as the bigger sanders have ~5mm of movement vs ~2mm
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Jun 13, 2020 17:18
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I've seriously beat up the baby bosch ROS20VSC, I loved it a lot but it's time to get a new one. Looking at the vibrations on the bigger ROS65VC, seems like a big upgrade as I tend to overwork myself after a few hours on the 20VSC. Any thoughts on this? I like to use my tools a little before buying them but unfortunately I cant right now. A lot of my work is on curves on sculpture if that changes your answer to a different sander. My price range is under $300. If there is something better out there I'm missing I'm all ears; I was leaning away from festool because I have easy access to bulk sandpaper and wasnt sure it was worth buying into their system. Dust collection is very low priority for me The ROS65VC (GEX 125-150 AVE over here) is what I have. It's not light, that's for sure, though it can be used one-handed for short periods. Vibration is fine, dust collection is great with mesh pads. I've used it to sand a fair few walls and ceilings by this point, and while I'd not want to go heavier, it's feasible. I would say it's best suited to horizontal work if you're at it for hours at a time, as would any other sander of the same weight or greater. 2.5kg is 5.5lbs if that's helpful. Double it and add 10%.
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Jun 13, 2020 17:33
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I looked it up and my Ridgid is 7.5lb so that is a fair bit heavier than the Bosch. Might be worth trying to find one you can actually hold in person.
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Jun 13, 2020 17:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:I don't remember the details but I do remember watching this: That guy's a maniac. Wasn't that author he quoted the goon who wrote The Martian, or am I totally off base.
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Jun 14, 2020 02:33
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Olothreutes posted:I was given an old coffee table that needs a lot of help. I'm going to have to remove a bunch of metal hardware and some drawers and refinish basically the whole thing. The big question I have is about the top. It looks like it has an epoxy or resin layer maybe 2 or 3 mm thick that has cracked in several places. How the hell do I get that off the table? Is there a solvent that will strip it, or am I stuck trying to scrape it off? Take photos for us. We'll need to see what that top really is. Try to get your photos in focus if you can? More light is always better.
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Jun 14, 2020 02:59
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Mr. Mambold posted:That guy's a maniac. 100% Mr. Mambold posted:Wasn't that author he quoted the goon who wrote The Martian, or am I totally off base. Unknown, it was a while ago I watched it.
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Jun 14, 2020 08:17
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Jaded Burnout posted:The ROS65VC (GEX 125-150 AVE over here) is what I have. It's not light, that's for sure, though it can be used one-handed for short periods. Vibration is fine, dust collection is great with mesh pads. I've used it to sand a fair few walls and ceilings by this point, and while I'd not want to go heavier, it's feasible. Well drat I'm glad I asked here I have 100% changed my mind, gonna buy another little one I guess
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Jun 14, 2020 17:22
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Well drat I'm glad I asked here I have 100% changed my mind, gonna buy another little one I guess I do still very much like it and I'm happy to answer any specific questions if you have them.
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Jun 14, 2020 18:25
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serious gaylord posted:I'm seeing a lot more Eucalyptus faced ply than I used to in the UK. Its imo just as nice as Birch but a slightly more yellow colour with a lovely grain pattern. Im going to use a lot more of it. Bhyo that looks like a blast of a project, please update the thread with relevant, erm updates. I assume you've already considered and then discarded the concept of movable shelving. Ash is underrated imo. Soft Southern Ash, they called it was popular here when I got into residential trim & cabinetry, but the plywood you'd get to go with ash lumber was Japanese Sen. It just wasn't ever milled into plywood in the U.S. for idk why, except at arm & leg rates. Flash forward, one learns that all Fender solid body guitars are made with ash or swamp ash now (don't know if there is a difference) partly because it's very tough, not brittle, but still workable unlike say, hickory. And ofc, the Japanese knockoff Fender styles all had Sen bodies. And they were great too. This has been another episode of trivial FYI.
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Jun 14, 2020 18:49
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Mr. Mambold posted:Bhyo that looks like a blast of a project, please update the thread with relevant, erm updates. I assume you've already considered and then discarded the concept of movable shelving. Speaking of Fender. I am kind of disappointed with the Custom Shop Strat I got a while back, which now I notice has a visible seam where the wood of the body is joined.
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Jun 14, 2020 20:12
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Jaded Burnout posted:I do still very much like it and I'm happy to answer any specific questions if you have them. Thanks but it's what my gut was telling me: that it wouldn't be comfortable using vertically one handed
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Jun 14, 2020 20:20
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Thanks but it's what my gut was telling me: that it wouldn't be comfortable using vertically one handed Good call. I don't skip arm day and it's not very comfortable for long term vertical use even with both hands.
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Jun 14, 2020 20:38
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Hasselblad posted:Speaking of Fender. I am kind of disappointed with the Custom Shop Strat I got a while back, which now I notice has a visible seam where the wood of the body is joined. For a Custom Shop guitar? Yeah, if it's not nearly invisible I think kind of disappointed would be an understatement.
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Jun 14, 2020 20:42
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Soft bags or hard cases? (For tool storage)
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Jun 14, 2020 22:41
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Soft bags or hard cases? (For tool storage) I have a mixture of hard cases, soft bags and half & half bags. Hard cases are good for tools with delicate protuberances, like dials or cutters or whatever that you wouldn't want to take a knock. Soft bags are good because they take up less space and/or you can fit more in them. Hard cases are good for consistency of size and format.
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Jun 14, 2020 22:47
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Hey all, I realized I haven't shared any of my progress on my art-deco inspired built-in shevles. Here is where they currently stand:  Its structurally complete, but I need to add trim, sand, and seal the shelves themselves before I can put all my books and stuff away. The standards/supports are anchored into the floor by way of two pins (lag screw with the heads cut off) that set into matching holes drilled into the hardwood floors (this was painful). They are also anchored up top with 4" deck screws that go through the ceiling and into the roof joist. They are solid as a rock!
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Jun 15, 2020 00:45
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Super Waffle posted:Hey all, I realized I haven't shared any of my progress on my art-deco inspired built-in shevles. Here is where they currently stand: Why did you go into the floor and ceiling instead of studs?
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Jun 15, 2020 01:00
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Hasselblad posted:Speaking of Fender. I am kind of disappointed with the Custom Shop Strat I got a while back, which now I notice has a visible seam where the wood of the body is joined. Have you told them about it?
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Jun 15, 2020 02:15
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My parents just bought a newly built house and all of the closets and pantry have painted MDF shelving with this really odd texture on the edges. It feels like 100 grit sand paper and is not consistent at all. First thought was horrible tear out that got painted over but its not where the router bit grabbed. Second was texture in the paint but its way too thick in most areas and non existent in others, also the face of the shelves is smooth. Anybody have any clue whats going on here?  
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Jun 15, 2020 02:35
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Popcorn ceilings making a comeback, and you'll never guess how.
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Jun 15, 2020 02:46
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Huxley posted:Popcorn ceilings making a comeback, and you'll never guess how. When I was househunting a year ago, one of the first places I toured, they had loving popcorn ceilinged every wall in the house
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Jun 15, 2020 05:51
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Popcorn_ceiling posted:Popcorn was used pre-1970s and in early formulations, it often contained white asbestos fibers. When asbestos was banned in ceiling treatments by the Clean Air Act in the United States,[1] popcorn ceilings fell out of favor in much of the country. I'm gonna build a low workbench out of a bunch of 2x4s but I don't have enough clamps. So I made six pairs of these ugly fuckers: 
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Jun 15, 2020 09:34
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JEEVES420 posted:My parents just bought a newly built house and all of the closets and pantry have painted MDF shelving with this really odd texture on the edges. It feels like 100 grit sand paper and is not consistent at all. First thought was horrible tear out that got painted over but its not where the router bit grabbed. Second was texture in the paint but its way too thick in most areas and non existent in others, also the face of the shelves is smooth. Anybody have any clue whats going on here? Looks to me like they sprayed it (maybe with the wrong settings) and just never, ever scuff-sanded? Probably a little roughness from the cut edges of the MDF didn't help. That or it's some new spray on edge protector treatment I've never heard of or something.
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Jun 15, 2020 12:36
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JEEVES420 posted:My parents just bought a newly built house and all of the closets and pantry have painted MDF shelving with this really odd texture on the edges. It feels like 100 grit sand paper and is not consistent at all. First thought was horrible tear out that got painted over but its not where the router bit grabbed. Second was texture in the paint but its way too thick in most areas and non existent in others, also the face of the shelves is smooth. Anybody have any clue whats going on here? 3" roller brush and some crap mixed in latex. Sockser posted:When I was househunting a year ago, one of the first places I toured, they had loving popcorn ceilinged every wall in the house Grovering intensifes..... anatomi posted:
Agreed
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Jun 15, 2020 15:56
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Mr. Mambold posted:Agreed
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Jun 15, 2020 16:11
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I'm getting ready to jigsaw some holes into some boards, and I'm trying to figure out how to hold them to get enough blade clearance, which is tricky since the holes are a significant fraction of the whole piece (7-8" diameter in 10" squares). Right now I'm leaning to cutting ~3" long chunks of whatever stock I have around to put on the corners and center, but does anyone have know of a better set up?
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Jun 15, 2020 16:25
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Clamp a couple of 2x4s to your bench, sticking out over open space, then clamp your workpiece to the 2x4s? You may have to shift them around as you make your cuts to avoid cutting into them. There's a knot on the slab I've been poking away at, which has three small cracks in the surface of the slab. Today I went to fill those cracks in with epoxy. Mixed up a small amount, poured it onto the slab, then started heat gunning it to get the bubbles out. Of course this also made the epoxy spread out into a puddle on the surface of the slab (I foolishly didn't have, like, a cylinder made out of paper to contain it). I'm hoping I can sand that out later without too much effort, because I don't think I want an epoxy finish on this piece. Anyway, the bubbles just kept coming out of those cracks; ultimately all of the epoxy either "wicked" into the cracks below the top of the slab, or was puddled out. I guess those cracks go pretty deep into the slab. Hopefully I'll be able to finish the job in a second pass after this stuff hardens.
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Jun 15, 2020 16:35
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This is that maple piece you are working on? Have any pics sounds pretty interesting.dupersaurus posted:I'm getting ready to jigsaw some holes into some boards, and I'm trying to figure out how to hold them to get enough blade clearance, which is tricky since the holes are a significant fraction of the whole piece (7-8" diameter in 10" squares). Right now I'm leaning to cutting ~3" long chunks of whatever stock I have around to put on the corners and center, but does anyone have know of a better set up? Put a few pieces of scrap down the same height around it flush (or less) screwed in instead of on it Edit: I may be misinterpreting where you're running into issues, I thought you meant you couldn't clamp if and get a circle not that you needed clearance on the bottom Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2020 16:35
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dupersaurus posted:I'm getting ready to jigsaw some holes into some boards, and I'm trying to figure out how to hold them to get enough blade clearance, which is tricky since the holes are a significant fraction of the whole piece (7-8" diameter in 10" squares). Right now I'm leaning to cutting ~3" long chunks of whatever stock I have around to put on the corners and center, but does anyone have know of a better set up? How many holes? Would it be worth rigging a table with the jigsaw inverted? Otherwise what you said/they said.
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Jun 15, 2020 16:44
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dupersaurus posted:I'm getting ready to jigsaw some holes into some boards, and I'm trying to figure out how to hold them to get enough blade clearance, which is tricky since the holes are a significant fraction of the whole piece (7-8" diameter in 10" squares). Right now I'm leaning to cutting ~3" long chunks of whatever stock I have around to put on the corners and center, but does anyone have know of a better set up? This is what I did, if it helps. 
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Jun 15, 2020 16:56
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Okay, so more-or-less what I was thinking. Thanks!Mr. Mambold posted:How many holes? Would it be worth rigging a table with the jigsaw inverted? Otherwise what you said/they said. A few, but I already made a circle-cutting jig so hopefully that'll be good enough. That said, I wonder if I could set it up to move the piece instead of the saw...
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Jun 15, 2020 20:27
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Another approach is a sacrificial 2" thick piece of pink high-density insulation foam from your local big-box home improvement center. This is useful for several different operations where you want something to lay flat, you can clamp it if needed, and you want to slice or puncture or drill or otherwise mutilate your work piece and have something backing it up that you can go into, but it's wasting a whole bunch of/a really thick piece of wood, and also doesn't provide too much resistance. Plus if you don't happen to need to clamp, you can do it on the floor, which can be really nice when you need to get up above your workpiece or crawl across it. This can also help you deal with an uneven work surface, like a bumpy driveway or even your lawn.
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Jun 15, 2020 20:35
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Leperflesh posted:Another approach is a sacrificial 2" thick piece of pink high-density insulation foam from your local big-box home improvement center. This is useful for several different operations where you want something to lay flat, you can clamp it if needed, and you want to slice or puncture or drill or otherwise mutilate your work piece and have something backing it up that you can go into, but it's wasting a whole bunch of/a really thick piece of wood, and also doesn't provide too much resistance. Plus if you don't happen to need to clamp, you can do it on the floor, which can be really nice when you need to get up above your workpiece or crawl across it. This can also help you deal with an uneven work surface, like a bumpy driveway or even your lawn. I really need to see a Youtube now of guys doing woodworking directly on their lawns.
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Jun 15, 2020 20:44
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Mr. Mambold posted:I really need to see a Youtube now of guys doing woodworking directly on their lawns. I believe the tool of choice for these fine folks is the chainsaw.
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Jun 15, 2020 20:45
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Leperflesh posted:I believe the tool of choice for these fine folks is the chainsaw. Yes, but picture stakes driven as bench dogs and clamp rests. What is the grass of choice for good beltsanding traction? etc Be sure when gluing up panels to check for dandelions between boards. You don't want that!
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Jun 15, 2020 20:47
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I mean if you arent licking your finger to see if the wind is about to pick up and blow dirt on your inprocess stain what are you even doing with your life
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Jun 15, 2020 21:38
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:This is that maple piece you are working on? Have any pics sounds pretty interesting. Yeah, still the same slab. Progress is veeeeeery slow. Here's a crappy phone pic of the knot:  Plus side is, whenever it's finally finished it should look fantastic. The epoxy is just a bit too plasticy and high-gloss for my tastes.
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Jun 15, 2020 21:47
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This is a bit wood-adjacent but I don’t know where else to ask; I’ve made a small fibreglass sheet covered plywood boat and I’m at the endless sanding stage. I just can’t tell by eye if it’s smooth enough, is there something I can do to... tint (?) the next coat of resin that’ll make it easier to see the smoothness that won’t mess up the water resistance and finish?
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Jun 15, 2020 22:00
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Reccomendation for a basic chisel set and a spokeshave?
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Jun 15, 2020 22:19
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Rapulum_Dei posted:This is a bit wood-adjacent but I don’t know where else to ask; I’ve made a small fibreglass sheet covered plywood boat and I’m at the endless sanding stage. You can generally add tints to epoxies and resins, and most manufacturers of resins/epoxies have tints they sell, or there's generic ones. That said, can you not tell smoothness by feel? Or get a flashlight and put it right up next to the surface at an angle so you can see the reflectivity?
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Jun 15, 2020 22:21
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