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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

I said come in! posted:

I'm not doing another one of these ever again. :v: probably eventually i'll go back and touch things up further, but it will look good on the table top, it's ready to play, that is all I cared about. This was fun to paint, and this vehicle is super badass. Worth the long wait for it to finally become available. This took me 3 days of painting or about 15 hours of careful attention to detail and it still doesn't match up to what Games Workshop is showing off on their website.


Painting big things is tough. It takes a little different skill than painting up individual dudes. I too am still learning how to paint up big guys efficiently. But hey, the more we do this, the better we will be at it. Keep it up dude.

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Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



For those of you that transferred your Citadel paints to dropper bottles, what did you use to scrape out t that last bit of paint in the bottles? Or do you jut not bother?

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
I just picked up my brushes after probably 8 years off. Any advice for identification of bad paint vs one I just need to shake more?

Chunky is a "gone off" indicator, but even the best ones have a 5 minute working time. I feel like that's too short.

I'm mostly working with Vallejo Model air and citadel.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

Nice thopter brah

Gameko
Feb 23, 2006

The friend of all children!

Vaporware posted:

I just picked up my brushes after probably 8 years off. Any advice for identification of bad paint vs one I just need to shake more?

Chunky is a "gone off" indicator, but even the best ones have a 5 minute working time. I feel like that's too short.

I'm mostly working with Vallejo Model air and citadel.

Chunks aren’t a deal breaker. Generally if you can’t get the pigment to suspend even after tons of shaking then it’s time to throw it out.

Gotta get a good shake on it though. Invest in some beads and pop one in. Also consider a power shaker. I rigged up something like this:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMmMls-GYOI

DrDraxium
Dec 2, 2002




Plz state the nature of the medical emergency

R0ckfish posted:

I finished up the Annihilation Barge from the necrons SC!



Getting some hella Space Jockey vibes from this, great work.

seventimessix posted:

Now I have a decision to make. I prefer fantasy and there's a decent Age of Sigmar community in my area. I love the look and play style of the Seraphon and think I would enjoy painting and eventually playing with them. But the 40k 9th edition narrative campaign stuff sounds awesome. I'm not as interested in far future super soldiers, but the smaller initial investment and storytelling is so appealing. Ugh.

Welcome to the hobby! It's a very meditative great thing away from screens which was the big drawcard for me in this digitally driven age. To answer your question, wholeheartedly and what I recommend to all newbies is just focus on whatever you like the look of / lore more. You're going to be spending a LOT more time in that setting / with that faction than you will be playing the actual game, so regardless of their power level in the current meta (which can swing a lot over the course of the game's life) just collect and play with what you like the most!

Question
Something I’ve been curious about. A lot of tutorials I’ve read/watched say that you should do your basing first before you start painting your model. Whilst I understand this in principle (you don’t wanna have to make a complex base around the feet of your painted mini. However wouldn’t you eventually have to glue the bare plastic model onto the base in order to paint it? Or are peeps just holding onto their marine/creature’s leg whilst painting? Seems kinda awkward if that’s the case. I may be missing something here!

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

DrDraxium posted:

Question
Something I’ve been curious about. A lot of tutorials I’ve read/watched say that you should do your basing first before you start painting your model. Whilst I understand this in principle (you don’t wanna have to make a complex base around the feet of your painted mini. However wouldn’t you eventually have to glue the bare plastic model onto the base in order to paint it? Or are peeps just holding onto their marine/creature’s leg whilst painting? Seems kinda awkward if that’s the case. I may be missing something here!

You can mount a model on a painting handle without a base by pinning it, or using blu tack, or even using a drop of super glue so you can just snap it off once you’re done.

Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jun 16, 2020

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib


Okay, trying some things out.

For each the yellow, the blue, and the gold, left or right?

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

JackMann posted:



Okay, trying some things out.

For each the yellow, the blue, and the gold, left or right?

I'd say right for yellow and blue, I like the warmer tone

The left gold feels more metal-ish to me than the right

Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jun 16, 2020

Torquemada
Oct 21, 2010

Drei Gläser

Funzo posted:

For those of you that transferred your Citadel paints to dropper bottles, what did you use to scrape out t that last bit of paint in the bottles? Or do you jut not bother?

It depends on how much fiddling you’re willing to endure. I did this, and to minimise the time it took I added one or two drops of thinner and a few drops of water to each pot, then freehand poured the whole thing into the dropper. Pros: I wasted virtually no paint, and it was very quick. Cons: pre-thinning my paint when I use a wet palette was maybe not the best idea. It all still works fine, but after a day or so some varieties become a little too dilute.

The other option seems to be leaving it thick and using a funnel, which seems like it’d waste tons of paint, and mean washing the funnel after every pot.

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...
Hi painting thread!

Over in the 40K thread I posted some all-contrast Death Guard I did recently and some people seemed interested in talking about process, so rather than keep being off-topic over there I thought I'd post here.

Some of my contrast work:



(You can see here how nice Snakebite Leather is as a base for easy-mode NMM gold too.)




Basically the trick is pre-shading: I start with a gray seer undercoat, then a wash of basically thinned-down Nuln Oil? (Actually a mix of VMC black ink, smoke and matte medium, but eh.) Then a heavy white drybrush, then the Contrast goes on. (The white bits of the ghouls and the crusader are just the pre-shaded base, without contrast over the top.) It's really nuts how easy it is to get good results - most of these units took like 2-3 days tops, with none of the stress of blending and what have you. I honestly dread thinking of painting with acrylics again.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Thread, I would like some advice. I bashed together a bunch of feral AdMech over lockdown, and basecoated them. I'm now tempted to try painting them with Contrast paints.

Should I

a) Just use Contrast over the basecoats
b) Spray over the basecoat with a Constrast undercoat

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

When it comes to Contrast paints it's B that is the best option, the paints won't work properly over normal primer and you need the contrast specific ones to get the best effect.

Vlex
Aug 4, 2006
I'd rather be a climbing ape than a big titty angel.



Giant Ethicist posted:

Hi painting thread!

Over in the 40K thread I posted some all-contrast Death Guard I did recently and some people seemed interested in talking about process, so rather than keep being off-topic over there I thought I'd post here.

Some of my contrast work:



(You can see here how nice Snakebite Leather is as a base for easy-mode NMM gold too.)




Basically the trick is pre-shading: I start with a gray seer undercoat, then a wash of basically thinned-down Nuln Oil? (Actually a mix of VMC black ink, smoke and matte medium, but eh.) Then a heavy white drybrush, then the Contrast goes on. (The white bits of the ghouls and the crusader are just the pre-shaded base, without contrast over the top.) It's really nuts how easy it is to get good results - most of these units took like 2-3 days tops, with none of the stress of blending and what have you. I honestly dread thinking of painting with acrylics again.

This is very nice. Do you think a similar process would work with a leadbelcher undercoat and lighter silver metal drybrush? What sort of brush do you use for drybrushing?

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...

Vlex posted:

This is very nice. Do you think a similar process would work with a leadbelcher undercoat and lighter silver metal drybrush? What sort of brush do you use for drybrushing?

It's worth a try! My instinct, though, is that the contrast between the dark gray leadbelcher and light gray silver might not be great enough to really make it work. When my pre-shading is done it looks like this:



...and the very high contrast between near-white and near-black is a lot of what (I think) makes the technique work.

I just use a makeup brush from the local-currency-equivalent dollar store for drybrushing.

Vlex
Aug 4, 2006
I'd rather be a climbing ape than a big titty angel.



Giant Ethicist posted:

It's worth a try! My instinct, though, is that the contrast between the dark gray leadbelcher and light gray silver might not be great enough to really make it work. When my pre-shading is done it looks like this:



...and the very high contrast between near-white and near-black is a lot of what (I think) makes the technique work.

I just use a makeup brush from the local-currency-equivalent dollar store for drybrushing.

I would still do the Nuln Oil (or equivalent) wash on the darker undercoat. The pre-contrast paint finish still wouldn't be as strong as your black-white contrast, but I feel like it's worth a shot.

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...

Vlex posted:

I would still do the Nuln Oil (or equivalent) wash on the darker undercoat. The pre-contrast paint finish still wouldn't be as strong as your black-white contrast, but I feel like it's worth a shot.

Yeah, definitely, try it. Half of how I got to this style with contrasts was just trying poo poo out to see what worked. They're really much more flexible paints than the unfortunate "one thick coat" GW ad copy made them out to be.

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
I got another overlord done!

Dienes
Nov 4, 2009

dee
doot doot dee
doot doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot
doot doot dee
dee doot doot


College Slice

Giant Ethicist posted:

Hi painting thread!

Over in the 40K thread I posted some all-contrast Death Guard I did recently and some people seemed interested in talking about process, so rather than keep being off-topic over there I thought I'd post here.

Some of my contrast work:



Basically the trick is pre-shading: I start with a gray seer undercoat, then a wash of basically thinned-down Nuln Oil? (Actually a mix of VMC black ink, smoke and matte medium, but eh.) Then a heavy white drybrush, then the Contrast goes on. (The white bits of the ghouls and the crusader are just the pre-shaded base, without contrast over the top.) It's really nuts how easy it is to get good results - most of these units took like 2-3 days tops, with none of the stress of blending and what have you. I honestly dread thinking of painting with acrylics again.

Any more details on how you did that blue sword?

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...

Dienes posted:

Any more details on how you did that blue sword?
Pretty straightforward! The pre-shade, then Basilicanum Gray, then I semi-randomly speckled on white with a stiff brush for the lightning effect, then a thinned-down wash of Tallasar Blue, then white highlights on the sharp edges. The blendy-looking bits towards the tip are a bit of a happy accident with how the gray went on a little splotchy on such a flat surface.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

That's a dope force sword, I like the spacey look very much there

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

R0ckfish posted:

I got another overlord done!



Holy poo poo that Orb. Nice work, dude. You're a wizard.

Super 3
Dec 31, 2007

Sometimes the powers you get are shit.

Giant Ethicist posted:



Basically the trick is pre-shading: I start with a gray seer undercoat, then a wash of basically thinned-down Nuln Oil? (Actually a mix of VMC black ink, smoke and matte medium, but eh.) Then a heavy white drybrush, then the Contrast goes on. (The white bits of the ghouls and the crusader are just the pre-shaded base, without contrast over the top.) It's really nuts how easy it is to get good results - most of these units took like 2-3 days tops, with none of the stress of blending and what have you. I honestly dread thinking of painting with acrylics again.

So you'r using the wash/drybrush to create more contrast under the contrast paint coat - have you tried with zenithal priming?

Gameko
Feb 23, 2006

The friend of all children!

Super 3 posted:

So you'r using the wash/drybrush to create more contrast under the contrast paint coat - have you tried with zenithal priming?

The best thing about following this and the 40k thread is how some questions get mirrored.

Zenithal tends to create shadow areas that are too deep with contrast.

Team_q
Jul 30, 2007

I've got a whole load of orks and goblins to paint, so I think I'm gonna try that technique Giant Ethicist!

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

JackMann posted:



Okay, trying some things out.

For each the yellow, the blue, and the gold, left or right?

So, between here and various other places I asked the question, it seems most people prefer the right blue and yellow, with a fairly even split on the gold.

The right was all done with contrast. The blue is Tallasar blue over Vallejo chrome, the gold is Nazdreg Yellow over the same, and the yellow is Iyanden yellow over grey seer.

The left was done with traditional paints. The blue is Thousand Sons blue, washed with Drakenhof Nightshade and highlighted with Ahriman Blue. The gold is done with Scale75's Metal and Alchemy gold set. The yellow is S75 Sol Yellow washed with Seraphim Sepia.

I'll definitely continue with the contrast methods for the blue and the yellow. I'll have to think on the gold.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer

R0ckfish posted:

I got another overlord done!



lookin hella spoopy, I love it

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

Zuul the Cat posted:

Holy poo poo that Orb. Nice work, dude. You're a wizard.


TheBigAristotle posted:

lookin hella spoopy, I love it

Thanks!

Pakxos
Mar 21, 2020
Working on a Chaos Warband.



My plan is to heavily shade the armor with a mix of nuln and agrax, give it a really dirty look. Should I wash them as is, covering the whole model, and then paint up the leather, guns, blades, fabric, on top of the wash, or is that going to cause issues down the road?

Pakxos fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jun 16, 2020

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


rockfish do you have an Instagram that you’re happy to share with goons?

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

JackMann posted:

So, between here and various other places I asked the question, it seems most people prefer the right blue and yellow, with a fairly even split on the gold.

The right was all done with contrast. The blue is Tallasar blue over Vallejo chrome, the gold is Nazdreg Yellow over the same, and the yellow is Iyanden yellow over grey seer.

The left was done with traditional paints. The blue is Thousand Sons blue, washed with Drakenhof Nightshade and highlighted with Ahriman Blue. The gold is done with Scale75's Metal and Alchemy gold set. The yellow is S75 Sol Yellow washed with Seraphim Sepia.

I'll definitely continue with the contrast methods for the blue and the yellow. I'll have to think on the gold.

Holy poo poo man. That's kind of mindblowing that you achieved that level of detail on the right with contrast paints. I've been painting thousand sons all this year using the more traditional method, though I've been using contrast on tabards and cloaks, plus aethermatic blue for Tzaangor skin.

I'm even more surprised the trim is also contrast, and over grey seer and not a metallic base.

I might have to experiment more with contrast as I move into my scrab occult and exalted sorcerers.

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

jesus WEP posted:

rockfish do you have an Instagram that you’re happy to share with goons?

Sure!

https://www.instagram.com/mpherrington/

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

Werix posted:

Holy poo poo man. That's kind of mindblowing that you achieved that level of detail on the right with contrast paints. I've been painting thousand sons all this year using the more traditional method, though I've been using contrast on tabards and cloaks, plus aethermatic blue for Tzaangor skin.

I'm even more surprised the trim is also contrast, and over grey seer and not a metallic base.

I might have to experiment more with contrast as I move into my scrab occult and exalted sorcerers.

To be clear, the trim is the gold. Nazdreg over Vallejo chrome. The Iyanden over grey seer is on the stripes of his headpiece.

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...

Super 3 posted:

So you'r using the wash/drybrush to create more contrast under the contrast paint coat - have you tried with zenithal priming?

I have - it didn't work that great, but to be fair it may be mostly because I don't have an airbrush and had to do rattlecan zenithal, which is very hard to control (I was more or less trying to replicate Dana Howl's preshading technique). But yeah, fundamentally the "shadowed" areas end up being too... big? You really do need a light base under everything the Contrast will go down on, with pretty restricted shadows.

Super 3
Dec 31, 2007

Sometimes the powers you get are shit.

Gameko posted:

The best thing about following this and the 40k thread is how some questions get mirrored.

Zenithal tends to create shadow areas that are too deep with contrast.

I went looking and found that Miniac has a gallery of zenithal tests with gw contrast paints.

This was linked off his zenithal tutorial on youtube.
https://imgur.com/a/awx69Md

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019

Torquemada posted:

He’s been exceptionally clear throughout the entire thing that they will be gone forever. If you want to learn to paint, and you want the Lord of Blights masterclass, follow my advice:


VLC is safe, download it. Follow the steps on wikihow and you can easily legally and safely keep the ten videos forever.

Thank you for sharing this methodology!

Got a nice collection going now :)

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

Cooked Auto posted:

When it comes to Contrast paints it's B that is the best option, the paints won't work properly over normal primer and you need the contrast specific ones to get the best effect.

There is nothing magic about the contrast primers. Contrast works just fine over any off-white basecoat. I just finished painting up a unit of chaos warriors using contrast over a basecoat of airbrushed Vallejo white primer, and the result is indistinguishable from the ones I did using the off-white contrast rattle can as a base.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

Geisladisk posted:

There is nothing magic about the contrast primers. Contrast works just fine over any off-white basecoat. I just finished painting up a unit of chaos warriors using contrast over a basecoat of airbrushed Vallejo white primer, and the result is indistinguishable from the ones I did using the off-white contrast rattle can as a base.

Fair enough, even if I assumed it was a either Chaos Black or Mechanicus Standard Grey primer we were dealing with here. v:v:v

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019

Giant Ethicist posted:

Hi painting thread!

Over in the 40K thread I posted some all-contrast Death Guard I did recently and some people seemed interested in talking about process, so rather than keep being off-topic over there I thought I'd post here...

*snip*

This is also a great post. Thank you for sharing!

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Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

Geisladisk posted:

There is nothing magic about the contrast primers. Contrast works just fine over any off-white basecoat. I just finished painting up a unit of chaos warriors using contrast over a basecoat of airbrushed Vallejo white primer, and the result is indistinguishable from the ones I did using the off-white contrast rattle can as a base.

Yeah, I've been painting contrast over grey krylon spray paint primer and it works good.

That said, I'm going to experiment on painting magos purple and aethermatic blue over silver metallics on some of my thousand sons tabards and cloaks, hoping it gives them an otherworldly shimmering quality that tzeentch will be proud of.

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