|
I said come in! posted:I'm not doing another one of these ever again. probably eventually i'll go back and touch things up further, but it will look good on the table top, it's ready to play, that is all I cared about. This was fun to paint, and this vehicle is super badass. Worth the long wait for it to finally become available. This took me 3 days of painting or about 15 hours of careful attention to detail and it still doesn't match up to what Games Workshop is showing off on their website. Painting big things is tough. It takes a little different skill than painting up individual dudes. I too am still learning how to paint up big guys efficiently. But hey, the more we do this, the better we will be at it. Keep it up dude.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 00:41 |
|
|
# ? May 17, 2024 08:31 |
|
For those of you that transferred your Citadel paints to dropper bottles, what did you use to scrape out t that last bit of paint in the bottles? Or do you jut not bother?
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 01:05 |
|
I just picked up my brushes after probably 8 years off. Any advice for identification of bad paint vs one I just need to shake more? Chunky is a "gone off" indicator, but even the best ones have a 5 minute working time. I feel like that's too short. I'm mostly working with Vallejo Model air and citadel.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 01:17 |
|
Nice thopter brah
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 01:36 |
|
Vaporware posted:I just picked up my brushes after probably 8 years off. Any advice for identification of bad paint vs one I just need to shake more? Chunks aren’t a deal breaker. Generally if you can’t get the pigment to suspend even after tons of shaking then it’s time to throw it out. Gotta get a good shake on it though. Invest in some beads and pop one in. Also consider a power shaker. I rigged up something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BMmMls-GYOI
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 03:31 |
|
R0ckfish posted:I finished up the Annihilation Barge from the necrons SC! Getting some hella Space Jockey vibes from this, great work. seventimessix posted:Now I have a decision to make. I prefer fantasy and there's a decent Age of Sigmar community in my area. I love the look and play style of the Seraphon and think I would enjoy painting and eventually playing with them. But the 40k 9th edition narrative campaign stuff sounds awesome. I'm not as interested in far future super soldiers, but the smaller initial investment and storytelling is so appealing. Ugh. Welcome to the hobby! It's a very meditative great thing away from screens which was the big drawcard for me in this digitally driven age. To answer your question, wholeheartedly and what I recommend to all newbies is just focus on whatever you like the look of / lore more. You're going to be spending a LOT more time in that setting / with that faction than you will be playing the actual game, so regardless of their power level in the current meta (which can swing a lot over the course of the game's life) just collect and play with what you like the most! Question Something I’ve been curious about. A lot of tutorials I’ve read/watched say that you should do your basing first before you start painting your model. Whilst I understand this in principle (you don’t wanna have to make a complex base around the feet of your painted mini. However wouldn’t you eventually have to glue the bare plastic model onto the base in order to paint it? Or are peeps just holding onto their marine/creature’s leg whilst painting? Seems kinda awkward if that’s the case. I may be missing something here!
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 04:15 |
|
DrDraxium posted:Question You can mount a model on a painting handle without a base by pinning it, or using blu tack, or even using a drop of super glue so you can just snap it off once you’re done. Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jun 16, 2020 |
# ? Jun 16, 2020 06:50 |
|
Okay, trying some things out. For each the yellow, the blue, and the gold, left or right?
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 07:43 |
|
JackMann posted:
I'd say right for yellow and blue, I like the warmer tone The left gold feels more metal-ish to me than the right Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 07:50 on Jun 16, 2020 |
# ? Jun 16, 2020 07:48 |
|
Funzo posted:For those of you that transferred your Citadel paints to dropper bottles, what did you use to scrape out t that last bit of paint in the bottles? Or do you jut not bother? It depends on how much fiddling you’re willing to endure. I did this, and to minimise the time it took I added one or two drops of thinner and a few drops of water to each pot, then freehand poured the whole thing into the dropper. Pros: I wasted virtually no paint, and it was very quick. Cons: pre-thinning my paint when I use a wet palette was maybe not the best idea. It all still works fine, but after a day or so some varieties become a little too dilute. The other option seems to be leaving it thick and using a funnel, which seems like it’d waste tons of paint, and mean washing the funnel after every pot.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 08:43 |
|
Hi painting thread! Over in the 40K thread I posted some all-contrast Death Guard I did recently and some people seemed interested in talking about process, so rather than keep being off-topic over there I thought I'd post here. Some of my contrast work: (You can see here how nice Snakebite Leather is as a base for easy-mode NMM gold too.) Basically the trick is pre-shading: I start with a gray seer undercoat, then a wash of basically thinned-down Nuln Oil? (Actually a mix of VMC black ink, smoke and matte medium, but eh.) Then a heavy white drybrush, then the Contrast goes on. (The white bits of the ghouls and the crusader are just the pre-shaded base, without contrast over the top.) It's really nuts how easy it is to get good results - most of these units took like 2-3 days tops, with none of the stress of blending and what have you. I honestly dread thinking of painting with acrylics again.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 09:16 |
|
Thread, I would like some advice. I bashed together a bunch of feral AdMech over lockdown, and basecoated them. I'm now tempted to try painting them with Contrast paints. Should I a) Just use Contrast over the basecoats b) Spray over the basecoat with a Constrast undercoat
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 10:48 |
|
When it comes to Contrast paints it's B that is the best option, the paints won't work properly over normal primer and you need the contrast specific ones to get the best effect.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 10:57 |
|
Giant Ethicist posted:Hi painting thread! This is very nice. Do you think a similar process would work with a leadbelcher undercoat and lighter silver metal drybrush? What sort of brush do you use for drybrushing?
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 11:21 |
|
Vlex posted:This is very nice. Do you think a similar process would work with a leadbelcher undercoat and lighter silver metal drybrush? What sort of brush do you use for drybrushing? It's worth a try! My instinct, though, is that the contrast between the dark gray leadbelcher and light gray silver might not be great enough to really make it work. When my pre-shading is done it looks like this: ...and the very high contrast between near-white and near-black is a lot of what (I think) makes the technique work. I just use a makeup brush from the local-currency-equivalent dollar store for drybrushing.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 11:34 |
|
Giant Ethicist posted:It's worth a try! My instinct, though, is that the contrast between the dark gray leadbelcher and light gray silver might not be great enough to really make it work. When my pre-shading is done it looks like this: I would still do the Nuln Oil (or equivalent) wash on the darker undercoat. The pre-contrast paint finish still wouldn't be as strong as your black-white contrast, but I feel like it's worth a shot.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 11:41 |
|
Vlex posted:I would still do the Nuln Oil (or equivalent) wash on the darker undercoat. The pre-contrast paint finish still wouldn't be as strong as your black-white contrast, but I feel like it's worth a shot. Yeah, definitely, try it. Half of how I got to this style with contrasts was just trying poo poo out to see what worked. They're really much more flexible paints than the unfortunate "one thick coat" GW ad copy made them out to be.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 12:17 |
|
I got another overlord done!
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 12:41 |
|
Giant Ethicist posted:Hi painting thread! Any more details on how you did that blue sword?
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 15:55 |
|
Dienes posted:Any more details on how you did that blue sword?
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 16:05 |
|
That's a dope force sword, I like the spacey look very much there
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 16:08 |
|
R0ckfish posted:I got another overlord done! Holy poo poo that Orb. Nice work, dude. You're a wizard.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 17:40 |
|
Giant Ethicist posted:
So you'r using the wash/drybrush to create more contrast under the contrast paint coat - have you tried with zenithal priming?
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 17:57 |
|
Super 3 posted:So you'r using the wash/drybrush to create more contrast under the contrast paint coat - have you tried with zenithal priming? The best thing about following this and the 40k thread is how some questions get mirrored. Zenithal tends to create shadow areas that are too deep with contrast.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 19:00 |
|
I've got a whole load of orks and goblins to paint, so I think I'm gonna try that technique Giant Ethicist!
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 19:10 |
|
JackMann posted:
So, between here and various other places I asked the question, it seems most people prefer the right blue and yellow, with a fairly even split on the gold. The right was all done with contrast. The blue is Tallasar blue over Vallejo chrome, the gold is Nazdreg Yellow over the same, and the yellow is Iyanden yellow over grey seer. The left was done with traditional paints. The blue is Thousand Sons blue, washed with Drakenhof Nightshade and highlighted with Ahriman Blue. The gold is done with Scale75's Metal and Alchemy gold set. The yellow is S75 Sol Yellow washed with Seraphim Sepia. I'll definitely continue with the contrast methods for the blue and the yellow. I'll have to think on the gold.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 19:20 |
|
R0ckfish posted:I got another overlord done! lookin hella spoopy, I love it
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 19:52 |
|
Zuul the Cat posted:Holy poo poo that Orb. Nice work, dude. You're a wizard. TheBigAristotle posted:lookin hella spoopy, I love it Thanks!
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 20:04 |
|
Working on a Chaos Warband. My plan is to heavily shade the armor with a mix of nuln and agrax, give it a really dirty look. Should I wash them as is, covering the whole model, and then paint up the leather, guns, blades, fabric, on top of the wash, or is that going to cause issues down the road? Pakxos fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jun 16, 2020 |
# ? Jun 16, 2020 20:24 |
|
rockfish do you have an Instagram that you’re happy to share with goons?
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 20:56 |
|
JackMann posted:So, between here and various other places I asked the question, it seems most people prefer the right blue and yellow, with a fairly even split on the gold. Holy poo poo man. That's kind of mindblowing that you achieved that level of detail on the right with contrast paints. I've been painting thousand sons all this year using the more traditional method, though I've been using contrast on tabards and cloaks, plus aethermatic blue for Tzaangor skin. I'm even more surprised the trim is also contrast, and over grey seer and not a metallic base. I might have to experiment more with contrast as I move into my scrab occult and exalted sorcerers.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 21:43 |
|
jesus WEP posted:rockfish do you have an Instagram that you’re happy to share with goons? Sure! https://www.instagram.com/mpherrington/
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 21:54 |
|
Werix posted:Holy poo poo man. That's kind of mindblowing that you achieved that level of detail on the right with contrast paints. I've been painting thousand sons all this year using the more traditional method, though I've been using contrast on tabards and cloaks, plus aethermatic blue for Tzaangor skin. To be clear, the trim is the gold. Nazdreg over Vallejo chrome. The Iyanden over grey seer is on the stripes of his headpiece.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 22:16 |
|
Super 3 posted:So you'r using the wash/drybrush to create more contrast under the contrast paint coat - have you tried with zenithal priming? I have - it didn't work that great, but to be fair it may be mostly because I don't have an airbrush and had to do rattlecan zenithal, which is very hard to control (I was more or less trying to replicate Dana Howl's preshading technique). But yeah, fundamentally the "shadowed" areas end up being too... big? You really do need a light base under everything the Contrast will go down on, with pretty restricted shadows.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 23:01 |
|
Gameko posted:The best thing about following this and the 40k thread is how some questions get mirrored. I went looking and found that Miniac has a gallery of zenithal tests with gw contrast paints. This was linked off his zenithal tutorial on youtube. https://imgur.com/a/awx69Md
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 23:02 |
|
Torquemada posted:He’s been exceptionally clear throughout the entire thing that they will be gone forever. If you want to learn to paint, and you want the Lord of Blights masterclass, follow my advice: Thank you for sharing this methodology! Got a nice collection going now
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 23:46 |
|
Cooked Auto posted:When it comes to Contrast paints it's B that is the best option, the paints won't work properly over normal primer and you need the contrast specific ones to get the best effect. There is nothing magic about the contrast primers. Contrast works just fine over any off-white basecoat. I just finished painting up a unit of chaos warriors using contrast over a basecoat of airbrushed Vallejo white primer, and the result is indistinguishable from the ones I did using the off-white contrast rattle can as a base.
|
# ? Jun 16, 2020 23:55 |
|
Geisladisk posted:There is nothing magic about the contrast primers. Contrast works just fine over any off-white basecoat. I just finished painting up a unit of chaos warriors using contrast over a basecoat of airbrushed Vallejo white primer, and the result is indistinguishable from the ones I did using the off-white contrast rattle can as a base. Fair enough, even if I assumed it was a either Chaos Black or Mechanicus Standard Grey primer we were dealing with here. vv
|
# ? Jun 17, 2020 00:03 |
|
Giant Ethicist posted:Hi painting thread! This is also a great post. Thank you for sharing!
|
# ? Jun 17, 2020 00:35 |
|
|
# ? May 17, 2024 08:31 |
|
Geisladisk posted:There is nothing magic about the contrast primers. Contrast works just fine over any off-white basecoat. I just finished painting up a unit of chaos warriors using contrast over a basecoat of airbrushed Vallejo white primer, and the result is indistinguishable from the ones I did using the off-white contrast rattle can as a base. Yeah, I've been painting contrast over grey krylon spray paint primer and it works good. That said, I'm going to experiment on painting magos purple and aethermatic blue over silver metallics on some of my thousand sons tabards and cloaks, hoping it gives them an otherworldly shimmering quality that tzeentch will be proud of.
|
# ? Jun 17, 2020 01:11 |