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canyoneer posted:The bug sniffing dog thing doesn't work very well. The thing is, I haven't been traveling! How did you get/find/treat yours? I'm actually getting pale yellow sheets today. The ones I have now are patterned.
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Jun 16, 2020 14:21
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Quick question for anybody that's done electroplating, how much does the prior surface finish affect the final result? Not talking about cleaning, but more: is it better to sand/polish the part before or can you just do it after? I'm specifically asking because I have some plastic that I coated in a graphite conductive paint (designed for electroplating), but it's left small brushmarks and I'd like a smooth final finish. The plate will be brass, if that matters.
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Jun 16, 2020 17:26
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Electroplating tends to be really thin so yes, what you see is what you'll get.
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Jun 16, 2020 17:52
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I've got a wooden shed that has really weak doors/lock and was pried open a couple of years ago in the middle of the night while we were asleep, nothing was stolen. I'm setting up a gym in there so there'll be some stuff now. I want to set up some kind of super basic home alarm system for something like motion detection -> siren alarm. I'd use a clicker to turn it on and off, I suppose. I'm fine with it being just plugged into the power supply. I don't have internet in there and wifi probably can't reach. So just: -Siren -Motion detector -IR (or whatever) clicker on/off, I can put this outside -optional blinking light to indicate armed -Can plug into the wall. -dumb i.e. no internet I live in the USA.
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Jun 16, 2020 22:29
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gonadic io posted:Quick question for anybody that's done electroplating, how much does the prior surface finish affect the final result? Not talking about cleaning, but more: is it better to sand/polish the part before or can you just do it after? Electroplating is going to be microns thick, sand now, plate later. If you sand after you will sand it clean off.
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Jun 16, 2020 23:11
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H110Hawk posted:Electroplating is going to be microns thick, sand now, plate later. If you sand after you will sand it clean off. I'm watching some stuff on youtube now (of course the demo model is a 3D printed Rick head) and they leave it on long enough that the covering gets some actual depth, or so it looks. Perhaps "plating" isn't the right word for me to have used. But yes I will certainly sand it beforehand, thanks both. gonadic io fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Jun 16, 2020 |
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Jun 16, 2020 23:16
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Cowslips Warren posted:The thing is, I haven't been traveling! How did you get/find/treat yours? We were in an apartment, so it might not have even been our infestation. We were moving anyway and threw away the mattress, and gave every soft good a good long tumble in a hot dryer.
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Jun 16, 2020 23:27
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redreader posted:I've got a wooden shed that has really weak doors/lock and was pried open a couple of years ago in the middle of the night while we were asleep, nothing was stolen. I'm setting up a gym in there so there'll be some stuff now. I want to set up some kind of super basic home alarm system for something like motion detection -> siren alarm. I'd use a clicker to turn it on and off, I suppose. I'm fine with it being just plugged into the power supply. I don't have internet in there and wifi probably can't reach. So just: Don't know about the US but here in the UK you can buy a dedicated shed or garage alarm that runs on batteries or mains with a sensor and keypad for like £15: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0781ZTCS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8lE6EbKQGMS6W just Google shed alarm wireless?
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Jun 17, 2020 10:33
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This may be quite hard to see, but we're looking at yellow staining on the sloped ceiling at the top of the house, freshly painted a couple months ago. Is there any way this isn't a roof leak? 
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Jun 17, 2020 12:21
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Jaded Burnout posted:This may be quite hard to see, but we're looking at yellow staining on the sloped ceiling at the top of the house, freshly painted a couple months ago. It could be blood
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Jun 17, 2020 13:10
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Jaded Burnout posted:This may be quite hard to see, but we're looking at yellow staining on the sloped ceiling at the top of the house, freshly painted a couple months ago. That is indeed a roof leak from somewhere uphill of that stain. Where's the skylight?
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Jun 17, 2020 14:51
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PainterofCrap posted:That is indeed a roof leak from somewhere uphill of that stain. Where's the skylight? The only skylight nearby is a few metres to the right (through a wall), and the stain lines up very roughly with the middle of it. I'm currently wondering if this is a case of rain running off the hinge point in the middle of the skylight when it's open, and getting behind the flashing. The auto-close-on-rain doesn't always work. These past couple of weeks are the first that I've had them open since painting.
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Jun 17, 2020 14:59
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Is there a space you can access between the roof and the ceiling?
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Jun 17, 2020 15:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:The only skylight nearby is a few metres to the right (through a wall), and the stain lines up very roughly with the middle of it. It is most likely leaking around the perimeter flashing, probably at the top edge. The flatter the roof slope is, the more likely it will develop leaks at the flashing sooner than later. Most skylights only provide a 4" flash kit (Velux seems to provide a larger & more robust kit with their units) which may be sufficient with a 4/12 or steeper pitch, but < 4/12 this can happen. The shingles all around have to be pulled in order to re-flash. The short-term solution is to caulk the hell out of it or mop on cold-patch, but the only permanent repair is to re-flash with at least a 6" footprint. If you're really lucky, you have screwed-up shingles above it & replacing them should stop it. Adjusters hate holes in roofs. Cut only the absolute minimum, and make tham as small as possible. We are not fans of skylights.
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Jun 17, 2020 15:08
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My dishwasher has stopped filling with water when it runs. I've done some preliminary research and it's probably an issue with the float switch or the inlet valve. Replacement parts would be $80 for both as I can't test which one with the tools I have. Either way, if one of those things is the issue I could probably replace it myself. The real question is, the unit is 15 years old. Is it even worth bothering trying to fix it, or am I just buying a few months until the next, more expensive part fails?
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Jun 17, 2020 15:36
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I mean for 80 bux take care of it it might last another 5+ years.. switches and poo poo wear out.. I'd spend the 80 on it instead of 5-800 on a new one. If you're aching for a new one that's quiet etc.. go for a new one but you can probably hobble this one around for a bit.
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Jun 17, 2020 15:43
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gonadic io posted:Is there a space you can access between the roof and the ceiling? There isn't, what I'm looking at there is paint -> plaster -> fire resist plasterboard -> solid insulation -> roofing fabric -> batten -> tiles. PainterofCrap posted:It is most likely leaking around the perimeter flashing, probably at the top edge. I don't know what the pitch is, but it's decent while still being less steep than I'm used to. I'd have to break out the laser measure and do some trig. This is (a crop from) the best photo I have of that particular skylight going in:  and this is a better photo of another slightly smaller skylight going in on the other side of the roof. Same type bought at the same time.  They are velux, as you surmised, circa 3 years ago.
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Jun 17, 2020 16:30
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tater_salad posted:I mean for 80 bux take care of it it might last another 5+ years.. switches and poo poo wear out.. I'd spend the 80 on it instead of 5-800 on a new one. If you're aching for a new one that's quiet etc.. go for a new one but you can probably hobble this one around for a bit. As a counterargument, the newer ones are much quieter, much more energy/water efficient, and generally do a better job cleaning. The only cost you pay is that the cycle times are much longer than old models. I made this same decision to replace a high-quality, but 15 year old dishwasher recently. I didn't consider it worth my time and money to fix a unit that is past its expected lifetime. If it was only a few years old, that is a totally different decision. I also get a bit more cautious about appliances connected to full water pressure (e.g. water heaters). A leak from a failed repair or just old age isn't worth the small amount of money I'm saving by trying to keep it running longer.
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Jun 17, 2020 21:27
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Jaded Burnout posted:There isn't, what I'm looking at there is paint -> plaster -> fire resist plasterboard -> solid insulation -> roofing fabric -> batten -> tiles. That is at least a 2/12 pitch. If you can see the angle in profile, you can download a pitch gauge on your phone & use an image against level to determine the pitch. The important thing is, it's steep enough, but not that steep. Don't see too many terra-cotta roofs in that style. Where are you at? Are these fastened, or are these socket & tab? You get snow loads? The issue would likely be at the top of the skylight, possibly at the sides. If the shingels are properly installed & done are damaged, I would consider running flashing at least a foot out from the edge of the unit at the top & sides. But: do something soon, before it gets worse.
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Jun 17, 2020 22:13
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PainterofCrap posted:Don't see too many terra-cotta roofs in that style. Where are you at? South of England. The house is 112 y/o, dunno about this roof specifically. PainterofCrap posted:Are these fastened, or are these socket & tab? That I don't know. I have a stack of the tiles put aside from when these skylights went in, but they're inaccessible right now. PainterofCrap posted:You get snow loads? Basically none. Didn't snow at all here last winter. PainterofCrap posted:The issue would likely be at the top of the skylight, possibly at the sides. If the shingels are properly installed & done are damaged, I would consider running flashing at least a foot out from the edge of the unit at the top & sides. But: do something soon, before it gets worse. I'm inclined to be more careful with the skylight rather than leaving it open 24/7, and seeing if it returns, before I get a roof guy around pulling tiles, but yeah as soon as I know there's a persistent issue I'll get it looked at. I'll take a look and see if there's any tile damage visible from the outside. I can theoretically get up to that skylight from the inside, but it's a whole thing involving building a 3 storey access tower.
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Jun 17, 2020 22:53
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Could you get a moisture meter and then stick it on a 3 story long stick or a drone and poke it into your ceiling over the next few weeks after it rains to see how things are? 
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Jun 17, 2020 23:52
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What's the best and safest way to store a butane torch? Buying one for the first time for some automotive work and just want to store it safely.
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Jun 18, 2020 02:43
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melon cat posted:What's the best and safest way to store a butane torch? Buying one for the first time for some automotive work and just want to store it safely. You want to protect it from impact and corrosion so I find that a bucket of oily rags works best.
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Jun 18, 2020 02:53
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Y'all, I installed my new dishwasher today and it is glorious, but I want to get a "what the hell" shout out to Bosch for their cabinet screw tabs because the instructions are super unclear.
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Jun 18, 2020 03:12
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KKKLIP ART posted:Y'all, I installed my new dishwasher today and it is glorious, but I want to get a "what the hell" shout out to Bosch for their cabinet screw tabs because the instructions are super unclear. Well you see it's German and  congrats on joining the cult of Bosch dishwashers.(And for mr/mrs propane torch above, the "best" answer is likely a locked flammables cabinet, which is where all my theater nerd friends store theirs. The realistic answer is a shelf where it is secured from falling, will not be subject to extreme heat such as that generated by "greenhouse" effect of a car, or corrosive substances. If you live in an earthquake area then secured from falling is triply important. I store mine on the floor, so it can't fall.) H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 03:13
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I have a very open kitchen and my old slumlord special dishwasher could be heard running from about 2/3rds of the house. Replacing it with a super quiet dishwasher has been such a huge quality of life improvement for us.
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Jun 18, 2020 03:40
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H110Hawk posted:Well you see it's German and woo and it doesn't seem like it is sealing up on the top left of the door all the way and left a nice puddle on my kitchen floor (that I saw water coming out of) so now I'm scratching my head.
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Jun 18, 2020 03:45
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H110Hawk posted:You want to protect it from impact and corrosion so I find that a bucket of oily rags works best. Right on top of the oven, maybe?  I'll probably just leave it outside under a deck. As I understand it the biggest risk is a fuel leak rather than a canister explosion.
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Jun 18, 2020 04:18
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melon cat posted:Right on top of the oven, maybe? Are you talking about propane? There’s way less to worry about than actual scary gasses like oxyacetylene. Just take the torch off the tank when you’re done. Coleman tanks are nice for their wide base. TS4000 or go home.
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Jun 18, 2020 04:37
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H110Hawk posted:And for mr/mrs propane torch above, the "best" answer is likely a locked flammables cabinet, which is where all my theater nerd friends store theirs. That's where I store mine, because I realised at some point that I was gathering a critical mass of flammable and toxic stuff with nowhere safe to store it, and bought one, but I entirely get that an outlay of a couple hundred bucks is not in everyone's budget.
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Jun 18, 2020 09:32
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canyoneer posted:I have a very open kitchen and my old slumlord special dishwasher could be heard running from about 2/3rds of the house. Replacing it with a super quiet dishwasher has been such a huge quality of life improvement for us. In Mlmy apartment it could be heard through all 1400sq ft. At my new home I can barely hear my probably 5-7 year old Bosch 10 ft away. And mostly only when it's filling.
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Jun 18, 2020 11:03
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There's probably a million butane torches stored on coffee tables next to dab rigs. Not that stoners are a model for safety, but I think you may be overthinking this
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Jun 18, 2020 17:59
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Epitope posted:There's probably a million butane torches stored on coffee tables next to dab rigs. Not that stoners are a model for safety, but I think you may be overthinking this Think about all the rusted out husks of a propane pressure vessel people store near their grill directly exposed to the elements. Just don't drop it onto a hard surface and it's fine.
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Jun 18, 2020 18:43
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This means that the power supply is busted right? Can't get a current out of it at all, and multimeter reports effectively 0V across the two contacts. The current limiting light isn't on (and turning the current dial does nothing).
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Jun 18, 2020 20:48
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gonadic io posted:This means that the power supply is busted right? Are you shorting that with scissors?
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Jun 18, 2020 21:23
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Yes. It's a current limited DC power supply, so shorting it is fine. I tested it with a multimeter first. e: also tested it by trying to do things with it, the current reading never went above 0. gonadic io fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 21:29
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gonadic io posted:This means that the power supply is busted right? That voltage display is likely generated by measuring the output, so whatever this is may be easy to fix, just some open circuit between the post there and the internal Vout net. I'd at least have a look inside before discarding it.
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Jun 18, 2020 21:41
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Theres a fuse inside
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Jun 18, 2020 21:44
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I'll take a look, replace the fuse, and see what that gets me. Thanks.
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Jun 18, 2020 21:46
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Be careful in there. There will possibly be capacitors charged up to hundreds of volts with enough charge in them to kill you. When in doubt you can always work with one hand behind your back. This at least keeps you from accidentally passing current through your heart. The fuse you're looking for will be between the positive binding post and the rest of the circuit and hopefully not soldered down to the board.
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Jun 18, 2020 21:52
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