Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

Winklebottom posted:

The Army Painter Quickshade washes are my favorites. The set with all 11 has done tremendous work for me.

This right here. When I first got into the hobby I bought the quick shade set and the paint starter set. I don't even use GW washes, though I do use GW paint.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

Yeah, the AP Dark Tone (black), Strong Tone (dark brown), Light Tone (light brown), and Flesh Tone washes are a great pick up for anyone who wants to use washes. Don't have any experience with the colored ones but I'd assume they're also good.

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
I got a couple of orlock gang members done!

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Winklebottom posted:

The Army Painter Quickshade washes are my favorites. The set with all 11 has done tremendous work for me.

I have a bunch of these that have the same branding but they say ink on them. I'm assuming they're a different product?

Cinara posted:

Oil washes! You can make your own really easy and they are wonderful for stuff like vehicles or anything with sharp lines.

I'm not quite at the point where I need something like that.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
I think it's just a labeling generation thing. I got the set too and they're all labelled as 'Army Painter Quickshade - Ink' even the tones. The newer labeling has 'Washes' in red along the bottom. The colored ink is fairly weak as ink goes, perhaps closer to a glaze.

TURGID TOMFOOLERY
Nov 1, 2019

R0ckfish posted:

I got a couple of orlock gang members done!



I love these models and I love your paint job!

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:

I love these models and I love your paint job!

Thanks! They really are great models, modern necromunda is very nicely designed.

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

The Moon Monster posted:

Yeah, the AP Dark Tone (black), Strong Tone (dark brown), Light Tone (light brown), and Flesh Tone washes are a great pick up for anyone who wants to use washes. Don't have any experience with the colored ones but I'd assume they're also good.

I've played around with the red, blue, and purple on the metals on some of my units. The red one goes good on gold metals like retributor armor.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!

R0ckfish posted:

I got a couple of orlock gang members done!



The face is incredible. And even the eye slits in on the helmeted guy.

I'm really struggling with these tempestus scions atm, I forgot how small and fiddly regular sized people are in 28mm compared to space marines and Tyranids. Apart from shaky hands my eyes just seem to unfocus when trying to do really small details. It sucks.

R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013

IPA Regulations posted:

The face is incredible. And even the eye slits in on the helmeted guy.

I'm really struggling with these tempestus scions atm, I forgot how small and fiddly regular sized people are in 28mm compared to space marines and Tyranids. Apart from shaky hands my eyes just seem to unfocus when trying to do really small details. It sucks.

Thank you! The shaky hands thing you can mostly get around by making sure your hands are in contact with each other, say against the painting handle or whatever. That means that it really does not matter how shaky your hands are as they are shaking together. As for focusing, I don't really have that problem as I am a touch near sighted but I know there lots of magnification tools you can get.

Gameko
Feb 23, 2006

The friend of all children!

One quick and easy magnifying tool are the reader cheater glasses you can get in the drug store. Take a mini along in your pocket so you can see how much magnification you need. The readers come in several strengths and cost just a few bucks.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Heeey, please enjoy a knight.

Harvey Mantaco posted:

I painted most of a knight. Waiting on a delivery to finish up (base, gold, weathering) but I'm happy with it. Did a bunch of weird stuff I've never done before like hand painting the pauldrons and leg plating.

Commander Pliskin:





Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Cat Face Joe posted:

I have a bunch of these that have the same branding but they say ink on them. I'm assuming they're a different product?

darnon posted:

I think it's just a labeling generation thing. I got the set too and they're all labelled as 'Army Painter Quickshade - Ink' even the tones. The newer labeling has 'Washes' in red along the bottom. The colored ink is fairly weak as ink goes, perhaps closer to a glaze.

Yeah, as far as I know the Ink label is just the previous generation. Don't know if there's any change in the formula though.


The Moon Monster posted:

Yeah, the AP Dark Tone (black), Strong Tone (dark brown), Light Tone (light brown), and Flesh Tone washes are a great pick up for anyone who wants to use washes. Don't have any experience with the colored ones but I'd assume they're also good.

The only one I've struggled a bit with finding a use for is the Mid Brown, but yesterday I experimented a bit and turns out a few layers on top of Zandri Dust makes a decent skin tone

Shirkelton
Apr 6, 2009

I'm not loyal to anything, General... except the dream.
Any good resources on painting darker skin tones, it's not something I've had a huge amount of success with in the past and I want to vary things up as much as possible this time around.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

Dan Didio posted:

Any good resources on painting darker skin tones, it's not something I've had a huge amount of success with in the past and I want to vary things up as much as possible this time around.

The painting skin article on goonhammer, check that out

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Dan Didio posted:

Any good resources on painting darker skin tones, it's not something I've had a huge amount of success with in the past and I want to vary things up as much as possible this time around.

This guide to the Godsworn Hunt by Mengel runs through 5 different skin tones and is quite nice.

Also the goonhammer article https://www.goonhammer.com/how-to-paint-everything-human-skin/

Shirkelton
Apr 6, 2009

I'm not loyal to anything, General... except the dream.
Thank you kindly.

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

:toot: all done

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007



these new age of sigmar factions are getting weird

Painted something a bit out of the ordinary today - It's my kid's third birthday this weekend and she wanted a Moomin party. 3d printed some Moomins as cake toppers and painted 'em. :shobon:

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Geisladisk posted:



these new age of sigmar factions are getting weird

Painted something a bit out of the ordinary today - It's my kid's third birthday this weekend and she wanted a Moomin party. 3d printed some Moomins as cake toppers and painted 'em. :shobon:

I love it- super adorable of you to do that for her :shobon:

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib
Crosspost from the 40K thread.

JackMann posted:

Getting to the rest of the Rubric Marine.



Went with the contrast side of things, since most people seemed to prefer that. Not sure about the freehand on the tabard. May give that up going forward. It is definitely not one of my strengths as a painter.

Werix
Sep 13, 2012

#acolyte GM of 2013

JackMann posted:

Crosspost from the 40K thread.

I think that free hand looks great. Freehand is not something I've even ventured to try yet. I can barely draw in ideal conditions.

Mistaken For Bacon
Apr 26, 2003

Seconded. I thought the freehand was awesome when I saw it, don't give it up

Heroic Yoshimitsu
Jan 15, 2008

Does anyone here have good recommendations for lightboxes for taking photos? There's plenty of cheap ones on Amazon, but I'm not sure which if any are good.

Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer
I painted a Marcus crew for Malifaux. Marcus, Jackalope, Myranda, 3 Order Initiates, and Grootslang.
These were pretty fun to paint, they're all very different, especially the 3 Initiates, even though they have the exact same stats in the game.
Grootslang has deep purple shadows and green highlights, which gives a colorshift look that's hard to photograph in my crappy setup.
And I just realized that I forgot to put pigment on their feet.













Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
I'm still trying to nail down a scheme to use on my plague boys, and accidentally recreated Tarantulus' scheme from Beast Wars. Oops. I can't find the option to change the size of images shared from imgur anymore, and I don't have a light box so the shots are outside and a big overexposed, but it's what I have. Anyway, I'll try to take this as a learning experience. C&C very welcome.

1). His right arm is green because I was experimenting with brighter greens, and changed my mind afterwards. There's a few mistakes like this that I left to help me think about my choices. For example, I originally just tried to paint the rivets blue, but I accidentally hit one with my metal highlight and left it so I could compare the effect.

2). My brush control is bad, and there's no way I can do simple edge highlighting right now. I try to brace my hands, but I think paint consistency and brush tip control are weaknesses.

3). I need to stop trying to blend shades that are too far away. It creates too much work, and because my brush control isn't great it just makes more room for sloppy mistakes.

4). I struggle with color choice. I have a sort of idea of what I want but I don't have the, uh, art vocabulary to express it. Not sure how to fix that.

5). I need to not be afraid to use brighter colors. I think what I'm going for wants high contrast anyway.

6). Lol I still struggle with flat areas on power armor. How do I highlight and shade it? Where do I put the colors?

7). I thought to attempt some green, oily leakage from the holes (which I also struggle with highlighting cleanly), but Biel-Tan green didn't show up very much. Would thinned down Moot Green work? These things dry darker than they go on, and I'm not good at layering colors yet so this all just feels like a messy, clumsy attempt at imitating other's work.

8) I didn't try to do any corrosion, rust, or other wear effects. The lgs sells Secret Weapon weathering powder; does anyone have experience with that?






So, these pictures are the inspiration for the aesthetic I want- I would like to create the image of looming, creepy warriors trudging through a fungal landscape that you would expect to see out of Nausicaa or an old Ralph Bakshi film. I still plan on using a bunch of Warhammer Fantasy skeletons as plaguebearers/poxwalkers, and maybe even paint the unit leaders with red skulls as Redcaps, but if I'm going to make a fungal themed army I need to make sure I have the aesthetic down.





As for basing, well I like the image of a dusty, rhyzoid crusted, windswept plains but that's a bit out of my expertise too.

Dr. Red Ranger fucked around with this message at 23:58 on Jun 20, 2020

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

I'm still trying to nail down a scheme to use on my plague boys, and accidentally recreated Tarantulus' scheme from Beast Wars. Oops. I can't find the option to change the size of images shared from imgur anymore, and I don't have a light box so the shots are outside and a big overexposed, but it's what I have. Anyway, I'll try to take this as a learning experience. C&C very welcome.

1). His right arm is green because I was experimenting with brighter greens, and changed my mind afterwards. There's a few mistakes like this that I left to help me think about my choices. For example, I originally just tried to paint the rivets blue, but I accidentally hit one with my metal highlight and left it so I could compare the effect.

2). My brush control is bad, and there's no way I can do simple edge highlighting right now. I try to brace my hands, but I think paint consistency and brush tip control are weaknesses.

3). I need to stop trying to blend shades that are too far away. It creates too much work, and because my brush control isn't great it just makes more room for sloppy mistakes.

4). I struggle with color choice. I have a sort of idea of what I want but I don't have the, uh, art vocabulary to express it. Not sure how to fix that.

5). I need to not be afraid to use brighter colors. I think what I'm going for wants high contrast anyway.

6). Lol I still struggle with flat areas on power armor. How do I highlight and shade it? Where do I put the colors?

7). I thought to attempt some green, oily leakage from the holes (which I also struggle with highlighting cleanly), but Biel-Tan green didn't show up very much. Would thinned down Moot Green work? These things dry darker than they go on, and I'm not good at layering colors yet so this all just feels like a messy, clumsy attempt at imitating other's work.

8) I didn't try to do any corrosion, rust, or other wear effects. The lgs sells Secret Weapon weathering powder; does anyone have experience with that?






So, these pictures are the inspiration for the aesthetic I want- I would like to create the image of looming, creepy warriors trudging through a fungal landscape that you would expect to see out of Nausicaa or an old Ralph Bakshi film. I still plan on using a bunch of Warhammer Fantasy skeletons as plaguebearers/poxwalkers, and maybe even paint the unit leaders with red skulls as Redcaps, but if I'm going to make a fungal themed army I need to make sure I have the aesthetic down.





As for basing, well I like the image of a dusty, rhyzoid crusted, windswept plains but that's a bit out of my expertise too.

Honestly, the linework on the edge highlighting works for that aesthetic and I would suggest leaning into it further as the messiness looks good to me. If you're going for a fungal forest look maybe try emulating some lichen/moss that built up on one side of the marine. Practice on a piece of sprue before testing it on a model. Idk what kind of moss would grow in your forest but some desaturated blue/green sploches with some black spots could work. For a base, a fuckton of moss with a turned over log and little mushrooms would be the way I'd go. Easy peasy just glue a shitload of green flock on it then wash it with a little bit of watered down nuln oil to darken things up and then a really watered down agrax earthshade to mix with the black in order to make a sort of dirt. For the logs just get a box of wooden pencils that are cylindrical not hexagonal , shave off the paint on the outside sloppily so it'll have divots and knotches, break them into 1" pieces, push out the graphite core, dip them in brown wash, glue onto base, drybrush black.

But with the blue/blue/bronze color I get a deep sea vibe so if you want to go with that some algae weathering with light rust could look sick too.

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Jun 21, 2020

Spudd
Nov 27, 2007

Protect children from "Safe Schools" social engineering. Shame!

If a paint on a model dries and becomes really chalky and coarse its because I used too much water, right? And the best way to fix it is just strip and start again?

Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost

Spanish Manlove posted:

Honestly, the linework on the edge highlighting works for that aesthetic and I would suggest leaning into it further as the messiness looks good to me. If you're going for a fungal forest look maybe try emulating some lichen/moss that built up on one side of the marine. Practice on a piece of sprue before testing it on a model. Idk what kind of moss would grow in your forest but some desaturated blue/green sploches with some black spots could work. For a base, a fuckton of moss with a turned over log and little mushrooms would be the way I'd go. Easy peasy just glue a shitload of green flock on it then wash it with a little bit of watered down nuln oil to darken things up and then a really watered down agrax earthshade to mix with the black in order to make a sort of dirt. For the logs just get a box of wooden pencils that are cylindrical not hexagonal , shave off the paint on the outside sloppily so it'll have divots and knotches, break them into 1" pieces, push out the graphite core, dip them in brown wash, glue onto base, drybrush black.

But with the blue/blue/bronze color I get a deep sea vibe so if you want to go with that some algae weathering with light rust could look sick too.

Deep Sea nurgle is a neat idea I hadn't thought of before, and that's a clever idea for logs too. The image I have in my head for the bases is something like the edge of the toxic jungle in Nausicaa, if you've seen it. Just like the pictures in my previous post, with a variety of colorful (but desaturated) fungal growths constituting a forest, and the remains of communities still visible along the edges are in a desert, but "mossed" over with fungal spores and wispy rhizoid growths that obviously blew over the buildings and skeletal trees from the direction of the jungle. The light "sand" of the desert being that slightly purple shaded muted white color because it's dessicated fungal dust. Maybe do both types of bases; some half desert and some jungle with "trees" and mossy ground showing that neat dark purple/blue/green gradient as you go up the trunks like in the second picture, so over a larger army I can represent the force slowly plodding out of the jungle to take more victims. That first image with the orange spikes against the dark green mossy ground just looks neat, and I considered doing all the horns that way if the armor ended up green.

But balancing that palette with what I need the marines to look like to fit the aesthetic and still look good on the table feels confusing.

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free
Nearly finished this test zoomyboi

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

That's a cool scheme

Professor Shark
May 22, 2012

The Primaris boys in the XIth get into a lot of poo poo

Anti-Tachyon
Oct 25, 2010
Posted about this the the 40k thread, but I've recently gotten back into mini painting after about a decade (I wasn't good before either), and I found some thousand sons already primed and figured I'd try and paint them:


Since then I've got some primer and found a couple of Tzeench demons to paint:



You'll have to excuse the chipped paint, I dropped these boys literally moments before taking this picture and all their arms broke off :shepicide: Not that they didn't already have missing limbs from being stuffed in a box for years, but they're demons who can even tell :v:






The fire effect looks much better in the photos than in person for some reason. I didn't figure out how to do teeth and claws until the flamers, and horrors came out kinda... boring. Maybe it's a product of my failed attempts at mixing paints making everything too monochrome, including my attempts at gradients on the flamers where you can hardly see any colour change. Turns out my art teacher lied to me and mixing red and blue absolutely does not create purple :argh:

And now I'm off to assemble a whole bunch of lizard lads.

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

Dr. Red Ranger posted:

Deep Sea nurgle is a neat idea I hadn't thought of before, and that's a clever idea for logs too. The image I have in my head for the bases is something like the edge of the toxic jungle in Nausicaa, if you've seen it. Just like the pictures in my previous post, with a variety of colorful (but desaturated) fungal growths constituting a forest, and the remains of communities still visible along the edges are in a desert, but "mossed" over with fungal spores and wispy rhizoid growths that obviously blew over the buildings and skeletal trees from the direction of the jungle. The light "sand" of the desert being that slightly purple shaded muted white color because it's dessicated fungal dust. Maybe do both types of bases; some half desert and some jungle with "trees" and mossy ground showing that neat dark purple/blue/green gradient as you go up the trunks like in the second picture, so over a larger army I can represent the force slowly plodding out of the jungle to take more victims. That first image with the orange spikes against the dark green mossy ground just looks neat, and I considered doing all the horns that way if the armor ended up green.

But balancing that palette with what I need the marines to look like to fit the aesthetic and still look good on the table feels confusing.

Mushrooms like chicken of the woods or bracket fungus should be easy enough to sculpt up the legs - a thin ribbon, leave it to dry for ten minutes or so then scrunch it up. They’ll start to look really overgrown with tree fungus, should be able to get all sorts of fungus onto any smooth surface.

Giant Ethicist
Jun 9, 2013

Looks like she got on a loaf of bread instead of a bus again...
My old iPhone can't take pictures for poo poo in poor lighting, but:



I'm working on an expansion to my nurgle Kill Team (which I've been painting in pre-Mortarion Dusk Raider legion colors), and going back to acrylics after 6 months getting elbows-deep in Contrasts is... not as onerous as I'd thought it might be. This is the first time I've used Citadel acrylics since screw-top hex bottles probably (I got the Space Marine Heroes 3 malignant plaguecaster, and he comes with a selection of paints), and man the metallics are nice, especially with Agrax Earthshade. Nihilakh Oxide is also a winner, although a little goes a long way. I'm also trying out Vallejo rust wash for the first time, and loving it as well.

Funzo
Dec 6, 2002



I got myself a texture roller for making bases. I had planned on getting some Milliput putty to use, does it matter which type I get? Is there a different product altogether that works better?

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
made another rat





Dr. Red Ranger
Nov 9, 2011

Nap Ghost
I enjoy your rats, and the simple but effective nmm effect.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Spudd
Nov 27, 2007

Protect children from "Safe Schools" social engineering. Shame!

Giant Ethicist posted:

My old iPhone can't take pictures for poo poo in poor lighting, but:



I'm working on an expansion to my nurgle Kill Team (which I've been painting in pre-Mortarion Dusk Raider legion colors), and going back to acrylics after 6 months getting elbows-deep in Contrasts is... not as onerous as I'd thought it might be. This is the first time I've used Citadel acrylics since screw-top hex bottles probably (I got the Space Marine Heroes 3 malignant plaguecaster, and he comes with a selection of paints), and man the metallics are nice, especially with Agrax Earthshade. Nihilakh Oxide is also a winner, although a little goes a long way. I'm also trying out Vallejo rust wash for the first time, and loving it as well.

How do you make your yellows so, you know, yellow. A lot of mine come out really dull and almost green looking.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply