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SEKCobra posted:So are motorcycle rims just not a thing? I was thinking about getting a second set of tires, but apparently no one sells rims. Why? Seconding Gorson - your bike is probably too new to find used rims in good condition. I know there are premade spoked wheel kits sold for the CB500X to make it into an ADV bike, but they're $$$ (vs. $$-$$$$ for rolling your own).
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Jun 15, 2020 17:24
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Okay so uh, cancel the good vibes from fixing my clutch the other day, because it turns out I didn't. I set the freeplay according to the manual, but when I went to check the action this evening it won't fully disengage; with the lever pulled all the way in the bike is very hard to push in gear. Even setting the cable tighter doesn't seem to affect this stiffness. Any ideas?
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Jun 15, 2020 19:33
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Silly question - Are you adjusting at the clutch end or lever end? And what necessitated the adjustment in the first place?
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Jun 15, 2020 20:16
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Renaissance Robot posted:Okay so uh, cancel the good vibes from fixing my clutch the other day, because it turns out I didn't. I set the freeplay according to the manual, but when I went to check the action this evening it won't fully disengage; with the lever pulled all the way in the bike is very hard to push in gear. Even setting the cable tighter doesn't seem to affect this stiffness. Why do you need to push the bike while it's in gear? Like why is that your criteria for whether it's adjusted tight? Hint: I'm asking because it doesn't matter worth a drat and is totally normal.
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Jun 15, 2020 20:18
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Both. I'd just put a new cable in as the old one had frayed so much the bike was starting to jump while I was stopped at lights.Slavvy posted:Why do you need to push the bike while it's in gear? Like why is that your criteria for whether it's adjusted tight? Because if it's not disengaging enough to push around then won't it launch as soon as I drop into gear with the engine running? It was easier to push than this even on a frayed cable Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 20:21 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2020 20:19
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Renaissance Robot posted:Okay so uh, cancel the good vibes from fixing my clutch the other day, because it turns out I didn't. I set the freeplay according to the manual, but when I went to check the action this evening it won't fully disengage; with the lever pulled all the way in the bike is very hard to push in gear. Even setting the cable tighter doesn't seem to affect this stiffness. Can you get it to break free by tightening up the freeplay? Perhaps the plates are sticking. Did you soak them oil? Not sure if that actually helps, but it's the only thing I can think of to blame! e: I didn't see what you did with it, perhaps you didn't change plates.
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Jun 15, 2020 20:27
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Renaissance Robot posted:Both. I'd just put a new cable in as the old one had frayed so much the bike was starting to jump while I was stopped at lights. Wait let me try to understand this: you replaced the cable, adjusted it and it rode fine. Then, the next day, you tried to push a cold bike in gear and it was hard, so now you think it's not rideable after all? Oil is thick and sticky especially when it's cold. The actual clutch travel at the engine end is like a millimeter, the oil easily fills the gaps between the plates and acts as a fluid coupling, you'll never be able to push it easily; have your actually tried to do that before? Also if you have no slack in the cable at all, the clutch will slip and eventually be destroyed. E: alternatively, you adjusted it badly. To do it proper, adjust it 90% of the way at the engine end, then do the lever play/friction zone tweaking at the lever end. Ideally you want the cable adjuster on the lever perch to be somewhere in the middle and not at the extremes with only a few threads hanging on/the lock nut right up against the shank. E2: nothing will launch forward when you put it into first, not even a MotoGP bike, because idle torque on most bikes is equivalent to a strong spanner pull so if you're on the brakes when you select gear it'll just stall instantly Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Jun 15, 2020 20:30
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Yeah the XR doesn't push forward with the clutch pulled in when cold, but nor does it move with the clutch pulled in when running. So long as you can hang out at traffic lights and change gear RR I wouldn't worry. It also can't find neutral when at a standstil with the engine running... So if I don't want to cut the engine when riding dirt and I have to open a gate, I have to plan ahead. Gets really interesting on a hill with a kickstart bike.
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Jun 15, 2020 20:55
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You're right, it was fine and I was getting paranoid over nothing. Actually tried running the thing, and putting it in gear unstuck the plates without trouble. Previous bikes I've had (CBF125, ZZR600, YBR125) have had enough clutch play to enable pushing them around in gear with the clutch in*, which is why I thought it was weird that this one wouldn't. *which I remember because I've had to bumpstart all three, and did it by shifting into second then pulling the clutch lever and starting to jog
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Jun 15, 2020 21:03
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Jazzzzz posted:Seconding Gorson - your bike is probably too new to find used rims in good condition. I know there are premade spoked wheel kits sold for the CB500X to make it into an ADV bike, but they're $$$ (vs. $$-$$$$ for rolling your own). But why is there no aftermarket like with car rims. I can find hundreds if not thousands of rims for any car, but it seems not a single one for motorcycles. I would have thought there would be a large market for this, considering how much some bikers seem to love to "customize" their bikes.
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Jun 16, 2020 07:28
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Because cars have super generic stud patterns, any given rim can generically fit a huge spread of models, plus you can play silly buggers with rim sizing on cars without anything bad happening. Contrast to bikes where there are a million billion different axle, fork and swingarm designs for an overall much, much smaller absolute volume of vehicles sold, and you're stuck with the factory sizing unless you're doing some really drastic poo poo. Aftermarket rims are definitely A Thing but they're hugely expensive because there's no economy of scale so the only way to make a profit is high priced boutique poo poo, racers and custom chopper bs. Motard/dirt swaps are pretty much the only exception and that's only really feasible because you can make the rims and spokes identical and just change the hub to suit the application.
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Jun 16, 2020 08:02
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Adding to what Slavvy said, the expense keeps people from switching rims like they would on a car, which keeps numbers low, which keeps expenses high, which keeps numbers low etc etc etc
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Jun 16, 2020 14:14
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SEKCobra posted:But why is there no aftermarket like with car rims. I can find hundreds if not thousands of rims for any car, but it seems not a single one for motorcycles. I would have thought there would be a large market for this, considering how much some bikers seem to love to "customize" their bikes. You could buy some carbon fiber Marchesinis or BST wheels for 50+% of the value of your CB500X
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Jun 16, 2020 16:26
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Yeah from what I've seen so far it would probably be a lot more efficient to just buy a second bike and keep it as a parts bin than just buy rims.
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Jun 16, 2020 17:15
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In case anyone needs OEM parts, AdeptPowersports (used to be 2wheelpros) looks like it's getting my Triumph's cooling hose to me only three days after I ordered, and I ordered on a Saturday. Bike Bandit has now been waiting on the item for 2.5 weeks, and when I email the address they say to use for cancelling orders (cancel@bikebandit.com), I get an error from their mail daemon that gives a weird error (not that the address doesn't exist, just that it had a failure - mailbox full maybe?). *edit* Ordered it after dinner on Saturday night with normal shipping, got it here before lunch on Tuesday, not bad at all MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Jun 16, 2020 |
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Jun 16, 2020 18:36
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It’s weird that I bought this GL1100 with a strip of electrical tape over the neutral light, which always faintly glowed, and then all of a sudden last night it reverted to working normally, right?
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Jun 17, 2020 20:37
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Yes that's normal. Most GL1100 are haunted by the ghost of their original owners, who have been dead for like 100 years.
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Jun 17, 2020 22:09
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It started yesterday, lasted a good three rides. Neutral light is always on again now. Thanks, disco motorcycle ghost!
Revvik fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 00:19
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Mine is haunted by the ghost of the literal mouse that was in the airbox when I got it
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Jun 18, 2020 00:31
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Mine had a similar nest, I just shopvac’d everything out for a few days and I’ve been pretty lucky. There was fuckin’ RICE in there, man.
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Jun 18, 2020 00:34
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Jun 18, 2020 01:36
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ITS QUIRRRRKY ride home from work, neutral light reverted back to normal operation. Again. Oh well. It pulls hard af to its 8k redline (granny shifting on a real bike) so I guess there’s worse problems for a bike this old.
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Jun 18, 2020 04:26
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Otoh 8k is super high for what is effectively a 1L car engine from the 70's. Like it is genuinely crazy that they built a touring bike in 1974 that can have that redline, devastating performance for the day, and do moon mileage. Most brands aren't able to do that today. Seriously I'm not kidding: the fastest straightline bike in 1974 was, according to google, the kwakker z1000. It had 81hp and imo is a fair shout for the biggest gun of the day. The gl1000 upon launch had 80hp. In today's terms that would be a touring bike with 200hp, more and lazier torque than any literbike, but with million kilometre longevity aka an h2 crossed with a Hilux. It is genuinely mind boggling. By my reckoning the modern gl1800 is 100hp short and that's a good approximation of Honda's relative decline. They can do it, easily, they just can't be bothered and it's sad. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 06:37
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Coydog posted:Yes that's normal. Most GL1100 are haunted by the ghost of their original owners, who have been dead for like 100 years.
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Jun 18, 2020 13:11
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Did anyone happen to keep the link to the effortpost on selling bieks?
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Jun 18, 2020 17:54
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Martytoof posted:E: Assuming the tire doesn’t catastrophically shred, what is the sensation of developing a flat tire on your ride? What do you feel/how does it present?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yi5z0ZW190&t=580s (link to the timestamp but it's worth watching the whole thing) these guys have been saying gently caress tha police since long before it was cool
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Jun 21, 2020 17:22
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I’m puckering so hard watching that video that I’m not so slowly turning inside out.
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Jun 21, 2020 17:59
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Hate to have to ask but what's the protocol for selling a bike private party to the rabble, one that's worth a decent amount ~ $10k. I'm assuming Do Never Let Anyone Test Ride. Or let people test ride if they show up with the full price in cash and sign a contract that says if they damage it they just bought it?
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Jun 21, 2020 18:35
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depends on the vibes I get, but typically I’ll ask for something in collateral. half purchase price in cash plus a phone is my usual rule
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Jun 21, 2020 18:39
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I would ask for cash in hand to test ride. Also, check their license to see if they have an endorsement or have them bring proof they completed a course. Never let someone ride an uninsured bike.
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Jun 21, 2020 18:47
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Cash in hand to ride the bike, even if they "seem nice". Most people I've sold to haven't even asked to ride the bike, which is so weird to me.Verman posted:Never let someone ride an uninsured bike. This completely. Leave it insured until you have cash in hand and title transferred. I see so many weepy posts about stolen bikes that were uninsured because "I listed it for sale and wasnt going to ride it". Coydog fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Jun 22, 2020 |
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Jun 22, 2020 04:12
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Is it normal for a new bike to have a battery tender plug on it? I'm asking because my new KLX230 has one and I'm now having issues with my battery staying charged. I bought the bike with 0mi two weeks ago, it has 99mi now. It sat for about 5 days while the weather was poo poo (no rain gear yet) and then the battery had drained enough to not start the bike. I put the battery on a charger and tested for any amperage draw with the key off to find there was none, key on is 8 amps when the fuel pump kicks on then down to 6 amps. When I got the bike started it put out 14.4v at idle, so I think the charging system is good. I'm hoping the battery is just bad since it self discharges when not connected and the dealer will give me a new one.
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Jun 22, 2020 06:41
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Dealers will put bikes on a tender on rotation so the batteries don't expire on the shop floor over time. They usually remove the adapter before sale, but I guess you got a free one. They might have given you a crap old battery and kept it on a tender right up until the point of sale to save money, keeping the new one (if it ever existed) If it's a brand new bike go get the dealer to give you a new one. Just dealer things
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Jun 22, 2020 09:21
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My dealer didn't close the seat after the 1000km service and I find that really poor.
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Jun 22, 2020 10:03
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My second hand bike dealer said the bike would come with a full tank of petrol. When he delivered it to me, it had maybe 50ml of petrol in it.
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Jun 22, 2020 11:24
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My DR650 doesn't fit on my current rear wheel stand because of some plastic thingy on the bottom of the swing arm, do I take that off every time I lube my chain or do I buy a new stand?
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Jun 22, 2020 15:51
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Jack B Nimble posted:My DR650 doesn't fit on my current rear wheel stand because of some plastic thingy on the bottom of the swing arm, do I take that off every time I lube my chain or do I buy a new stand? Do you have a stand that just slips under the swing arm instead of using bobbins? If so, see if you can get bobbin-hooks for your stand and bobbins for the bike.
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Jun 22, 2020 16:01
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I’m going to need to replace the sprockets and chain on my newly acquired ‘09 Yamaha VX250 . I see a lot of price variation , are there brands I need to steer clear of , or brands I should seek out ?
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Jun 22, 2020 20:24
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JT and DID are good, I wouldn't bother with much else. Don't cheap out.
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Jun 22, 2020 20:41
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Jack B Nimble posted:My DR650 doesn't fit on my current rear wheel stand because of some plastic thingy on the bottom of the swing arm, do I take that off every time I lube my chain or do I buy a new stand? You have it far easier than that, the bike has a flat bottom so you're ok with a beer crate, cinder blocks or even dirt bike stand! Dr.Caligari posted:I’m going to need to replace the sprockets and chain on my newly acquired ‘09 Yamaha VX250 . I see a lot of price variation , are there brands I need to steer clear of , or brands I should seek out ? DID, JT, RK, renthal, can't think of any others but yeah. Cheap chain and sprockets are a false economy, if you get good stuff and actually take care of it you'll likely never need another set on a bike like that.
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Jun 22, 2020 20:55
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