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General_Failure posted:So, does the end of the unwrapped bandage go into the slit and then it gets wound up then slipped off? I like that. It'd be useful as hell for elastic bandages. Exactly! These things are typically 25-30 $ so to make one out of 50g pla is decent
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Jun 17, 2020 13:37
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| # ? May 20, 2024 08:16 |
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Monoprice's Delta Pro is still $699.99 if anybody wants one. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30993
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Jun 17, 2020 17:04
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Prusa about to talk about features they're adding into PrusaSlicer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAW2JR-D_QU Edit: It was a lot of fluff, but here was my take: ETA Unknown - Custom supports, Painting support enforcers/blockers, Can paint inside the models - Ironing, top layer replaced with small extrusion of infil - fill pattern, mono infil, infil is always one direction - Search for settings - Settings views; "old" (current) style, "new" style (adds settings into top toolbar), "non-modal" (creates new window) - Can add background processing to have real-time modifications visible - Toolpath preview - Merge two models will ensure it's a true merge, Will properly clip gcode to create one body - Convert to/from Imperial Units drunk mutt fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Jun 17, 2020 |
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Jun 17, 2020 19:56
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The only interesting thing I've seen in the commit log, altho it's been a while I looked at it, is painting on supports. --edit: I probably shouldn't attempt to watch this live, because this loving fluff... Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Jun 17, 2020 |
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Jun 17, 2020 20:02
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So it's trying to be Cura. I just want Slic3r's tower supports.
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Jun 17, 2020 21:56
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And I still want S3D's raft in slic3r/PrusaSlicer.
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Jun 18, 2020 00:11
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Click-n-place supports from s3d Edit: watched the video - the new support workflow They’re showing is waaay better than support enforcer cubes. Cool. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 17:12
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The painting of support enforcers/blockers on external/internal faces is really nice. I feel like they really put a lot of effort into this functionality; they also are really interested in hearing what right click vs shift should do for this mode (e.g, right click paints blockers and shift clears vs right click clears and shift modifies for blockers). Got the box in today for the dry box, 2 spools is something totally doable and I grover'd the measurements thinking I could get 3 in here. Also the glands I have are a bit too big for the 1.75 teflon tubing. But, we'll see how this goes!
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Jun 18, 2020 21:14
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If anyone has extra empty filament spools laying around and is unsure what to do with them, it turns out that kids love to play with them and daycares might accept them. I gave about 10 to my SIL for her daycare and now she wants as many as I can give her, and she plans to give them to other daycares too. So that beats throwing them out.
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Jun 20, 2020 17:43
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I've managed to lose an idler door spring on one of my Prusas. Anyone by any chance every had to locate a spare or equivalent here in North America?
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Jun 21, 2020 00:55
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TKIY posted:I've managed to lose an idler door spring on one of my Prusas. Anyone by any chance every had to locate a spare or equivalent here in North America? prusa sells a spare parts bag for $10, but idk if the spring is in it and i cant check rn
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Jun 21, 2020 01:09
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Deviant posted:prusa sells a spare parts bag for $10, but idk if the spring is in it and i cant check rn I've got the spare bags from all my builds and I've never seen a spring in one. They don't include spare heatbed standoffs either which is odd.
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Jun 21, 2020 01:16
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CommonShore posted:If anyone has extra empty filament spools laying around and is unsure what to do with them, it turns out that kids love to play with them and daycares might accept them. I gave about 10 to my SIL for her daycare and now she wants as many as I can give her, and she plans to give them to other daycares too. what?? i am going to drown these kids in a river of empty spools
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Jun 21, 2020 07:09
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I'm having a ton of problems getting petg to stick to blue painters tape, has anyone else had similar issues? Should I add hairspray or something? It sticks to PEI just fine but I've heard that using PEI can cause issues with the filament getting too stuck. Also, finally got my BTT SKR v2.0 with Bltouch and marlin 2.0 setup yesterday. It took entirely too long but I'm happy with the setup. For those of you with a bltouch, how often do you manually level the bed? Also, do you adjust the z offset on the fly as needed between manual levels?
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Jun 21, 2020 16:56
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Mikey Purp posted:I'm having a ton of problems getting petg to stick to blue painters tape, has anyone else had similar issues? Should I add hairspray or something? It sticks to PEI just fine but I've heard that using PEI can cause issues with the filament getting too stuck. Personally I would clean the painters tape and start fiddling with my z offset. Increase it, most likely. I mean, you could try adding hair spray? But I use it to /limit/ adhesion. Everyone has different and contradictory experiences with petg though
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Jun 21, 2020 17:05
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Painter's tape is really kind of meh as a build surface, even in the best case. Use PEI, and just get the purple glue sticks and cover the bed with that to prevent excessive adhesion. Windex works too -- the filmy soap layer reduces adhesion just enough -- but I prefer glue because it's easy to see that it's on the bed if you have to wash it off. If you Got A Prusa as I am always suggesting, the magnetic bed plates make it super simple because you can just clean it in the sink. Fwiw if your parts have a very small surface area you can get away without the glue. PET on PEI is a strong bond but not ferocious, and if you have small parts and let everything properly cool you will probably be fine. TPU (Ninjaflex, etc) is the real nasty one that you absolutely cannot print directly onto PEI. It'll bond strongly enough to rip the bed apart. As Johnnie Cochran famously said, "If the print's TPU, you must use glue." Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Jun 21, 2020 |
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Jun 21, 2020 17:32
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We print TPU on glass and it comes off with minimal effort. You've just gotta heat the bed up when you're removing it.
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Jun 21, 2020 18:11
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It's fine on glass; TPU specifically bonds to PEI.
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Jun 21, 2020 19:24
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Would I be facing any issues doing glass with glue stick for petg? I kind of like the idea of keeping the PEI side for PLA and ABS and the glass for PET
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Jun 21, 2020 20:48
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Has anybody used the flexible build plates from TriangleLab?
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Jun 21, 2020 20:50
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Mikey Purp posted:Would I be facing any issues doing glass with glue stick for petg? I kind of like the idea of keeping the PEI side for PLA and ABS and the glass for PET That's what I use. I find it needs a bit more glue than PLA to stick but once it's on there it stays pretty well stuck.
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Jun 21, 2020 21:04
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Nice, just finished up a test cube using the glue stick and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the help goons.
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Jun 21, 2020 22:07
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I use blue painters tape for PETG. The PETG really doesn't like adhering to the Ender 3 Pro flexible bed thing. Pretty sure it also damages it. I do tend to run at 240* nozzle and 70* bed though.
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Jun 21, 2020 23:10
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Could having a bed temperature that is too high also mess with PETG adhesion issues? I use a glass bed that also has a PEI sheet on it, so I've been printing with a pretty high bed temp....around 85 for the first 3 layers and then dropping down to 70. Also, unrelated question but is there any way to configure an auto-shutdown feature for my Ender 3 via Marlin 2.0? I've got a BTT SKR E3 Mini v2.0, if it matters. When I first bought the new board I thought I read that it had this feature, but now looking back I see that it says it "supports" auto-shutdown via the PS-ON port. Does this mean I would need some other piece of hardware to actually enable it, or is it just a setting in Marlin that needs to be turned on?
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Jun 22, 2020 04:05
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Right now I'm printing generic PETG on textured glass + hairspray on the ender 3. 240c nozzle, 80c bed. I'm churning out a bunch of identical parts 5 at a time, and I'm on batch 3 with basically no issues.
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Jun 22, 2020 06:13
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CommonShore posted:Right now I'm printing generic PETG on textured glass + hairspray on the ender 3. 240c nozzle, 80c bed. I'm churning out a bunch of identical parts 5 at a time, and I'm on batch 3 with basically no issues. How is it for elephant foot?
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Jun 22, 2020 08:41
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General_Failure posted:How is it for elephant foot? No elephant foot. If I have any problem it's the reverse, actually. I'm having a tiny bit of curling around the thinner sections on some of my pieces (which doesn't matter for my purpose). Going to relevel the bed after this batch.
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Jun 22, 2020 15:35
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Update about the Photon issue. I thought the screen was dead so I contacted them through Aliexpress and they told me to open a ticket on their website. They got back to me pretty quickly and the guy gave firmware to patch and that seemed to work (for now). The screens are known to fail sometimes so I really didn't think this would be a software issue but I guess that was it. You can't see where the original print failed on the back of the right one, but it's now fine. You can also see the difference the wash makes. The only difference in detail is in the teeth where there are now some gaps where they're supposed to be, otherwise the unwashed one is just much shinier and smoother. The 
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Jun 23, 2020 09:45
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Just got my Prusa Mini shipping notification 
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Jun 23, 2020 12:16
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Is there a recommended printer in the $500 range, or just pay the extra and get a Prusa?
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Jun 23, 2020 16:49
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Maigius posted:pay the extra and get a Prusa
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Jun 23, 2020 16:50
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If you're already comfortable with 500 bucks, an extra 250 to have the best and most reliable desktop printer on the market is definitely worth it.
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Jun 23, 2020 16:51
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Maigius posted:Is there a recommended printer in the $500 range, or just pay the extra and get a Prusa? Nope. Under a grand there are basically two answers: get an ender as a base and spend a few weekends building it into what you want, or get a prusa, put it on a table and print things.
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Jun 23, 2020 16:53
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mobby_6kl posted:Update about the Photon issue. I thought the screen was dead so I contacted them through Aliexpress and they told me to open a ticket on their website. They got back to me pretty quickly and the guy gave firmware to patch and that seemed to work (for now). The screens are known to fail sometimes so I really didn't think this would be a software issue but I guess that was it. Is the washed one feeling a bit tack-y at all? I've found that dishsoap can help, and a combo of that and some clearcoat can get you nice and shiny again. I've also done the whole progressively finer sanding and a buffing wheel option but god it takes forever
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Jun 23, 2020 17:02
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Trip report: Prusa Mini (x2) I bought an assembled pair back in November for work and received them mid-May. They were easy enough to put together though the attachment of the Z tower to the bed was a bid fiddly. We have been running them on back-to-back print jobs for the last month; 6 hr prints during working hours, 12 hr prints overnight and the occasional 24 hr print. They have already been through four spools of PLA on each machine. Not a single failed print, jam, or clog. They’re so quiet! I am used to my Monoprice I3 clone singing me songs with the steppers, but these two Prusa Minis are on a wire rack right next to my desk and sometimes I don’t even notice that they have finished printing because they aren’t much louder than the A/C noise in the office. I have been able to train three other people with no prior experience in about 5 minutes on how to load/unload filament, pop the finished prints off, clean the plate and start the next job. I haven’t gotten around to setting up Octoprint servers for them yet but I don’t know that I really even need to at this point. The USB key for storage instead of SD cards is really nice, but hopefully they can implement network uploading soon as that is really the only thing I find lacking and would use Octoprint to do. In hindsight, I would have also got the filament sensor so we wouldn’t have to be as diligent about keeping an eye on them on the longer prints near the end of the spool. I may end up ordering them when we decide to pull the trigger on another pair of printers, which is sadly on hold until we can generate revenue again.
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Jun 23, 2020 18:58
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Maigius posted:Is there a recommended printer in the $500 range, or just pay the extra and get a Prusa? The Prusa Mini has a 7" cube print area and is probably going to print circles around everything else. Mine will be arriving in the next week or two and I'll be able to take pics and post them in this thread because it'll be on my desk at work.
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Jun 23, 2020 19:54
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Oh poo poo!
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Jun 24, 2020 17:51
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Oh poo poo! Wheres my Mk3 Josef  . When did you order? I placed mine in the 19th of may.
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Jun 24, 2020 18:25
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FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:Wheres my Mk3 Josef Waaaaay back on February 7th.
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Jun 24, 2020 18:43
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I was in the first wave of Prusa minis and had to do a lot of tweaking to get it printing remotely reliably with non-prusa filament I know there was a lot of processes that got changed on the assembly lines as a result of my non-unique experiences, excited to hear goon testimony for the quality of them now
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Jun 24, 2020 19:17
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