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angryrobots posted:I'm pretty vocal here about my dislike for Trane because of how they lock down their parts supply, but if you're not DIY'ing repairs (and in an area with a local Trane parts warehouse for your company to access) they make a fine unit. I won't be DIY'ing anything more than a capacitor or filter. I'm not in this for the cost savings.  No one has said not to spend $6000 on a fully variable system for my single zone starter house.  Thank you folks, no one has screamed at my like any of this stuff is "full stupid" so I am going to sign for the basic Trane unit after they get the garbage Nest off the bid.
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Jun 27, 2020 01:31
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Hoping for some thoughts on my quandary... apologies for all the  Situation: I recently bought a 50's era 1000sq/ft house (concrete block) in South Florida that has a dark roof, small attic (4" at peak) with newer blown in cellulose insulation. The house has new hurricane windows and doors (w/ low-e glass) and a 1 1/2 year old Trane 2.5 ton 14.5 seer central AC. I was told by the AC installer that the 2.5 ton was a little oversized, but I have not found this to be the case. Not only do we have warm rooms - more on that later - but the AC has also been struggling recently to maintain temperature in the heart of the home at the living room where the thermostat is. We've had several days lately (90 ~ 91 degree high temps) where the maintaining of a set 73 degrees has slipped to 74 ~ 75 during the afternoons (with humidity looking like 49 - 57% over the course of 24 hours) despite having been constantly cooling at 73 for a long time... basically it's constantly running, never cycling, and still slipping higher. So that's issue 1. As I said before, we also have warm, stuffy bedrooms (east side of house, small - maybe 12' x 14') that seem to stay 2 ~ 4 degrees higher than the living room depending on the time of day, people in them, whether the doors are shut, and how many PS4 Pros are playing God of War in them. About a year or so ago, I attempted to rectify this when I contacted the same people who installed the new AC, and they recommended installing returns in both of the bedrooms to help pull out the hot air and even out the temps... I had the returns installed and the rooms still heat up and it's still difficult - personally - for me to sleep in them with the door shut. --- That said, what should I do to try to solve this issue, prefacing that I would rather not have to replace the roof or the AC as they are both pretty new and expensive, but I do have some money to throw at this. One thing I was reading about was spray foam insulation on the roof decking to combat the heat coming in via the dark roof. This would require the removal of the blown in insulation before the foam could be applied. However, I have read concerning things about the humidity issues you may get once you close off the venting of your attic; the company I contacted for a quote actually pitched it as reducing house humidity, so this is obviously confusing to me. Based on the size of the house, I have been quoted a price of around $3000 for the insulation (open cell). The other thing I was thinking about was having mini splits installed in the two bedrooms to help keep them cool and reduce stuffiness... and hopefully help out with the overall conditioning of the home. Window units are not an option as the windows are casement and even if they weren't I'm not trying to put in window units. I haven't yet looked too deeply into the materials and installation costs associated with this other than getting a general idea of mini split prices. That said, any thoughts or recommendations based on the information? Perhaps there's other routes I should be investigating? testtubebaby fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Jun 29, 2020 |
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Jun 29, 2020 17:29
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I'm not an HVAC pro, but I would guess you have an airflow issue, not a capacity issue. I had a 2.5 ton 14 seer unit in my last house, and it was 1750 sq ft in South Central Texas. It kept the house at 71 even on 100 degree days. I'd try to find a really good local tech that can look at the entire system and make sure it's performing properly. Measuring airflow before and after the evap, make sure the temp drop is within spec, charge and pressure is good on the system, ducting is in good shape and properly sized. Easiest thing to check, the filter is 1) clean, 2) designed for the system. If the system was designed for a cheap fiberglass filter and you're choking it out with a high MERV filter, you can run into airflow issues. Mini splits would fix the issue, but it's a bandaid, not a fix. What's your HVAC ducting like?
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Jun 29, 2020 17:43
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zenintrude posted:Situation: I recently bought a 50's era 1000sq/ft house (concrete block) in South Florida that has a dark roof, small attic (4" at peak) with newer blown in cellulose insulation. The house has new hurricane windows and doors (w/ low-e glass) and a 1 1/2 year old Trane 2.5 ton 14.5 seer central AC. Modern system with modern insulation and modern windows you should call the original installer and say it isn't working. At 1.5 years old they should just good will or very cheaply fix that. My 2.5 Ton cools my 1250sqft 1947 house with those same amenities just fine. For all you know the trunk has sprung a leak or your piping has leaked all your refrigerant into the atmosphere. Water should basically be trickling out of your condensation pipe as well given it's Florida where you can get hydrated by just taking a deep breath of air. Even here in SoCal I get a steady drip while it's running.
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Jun 29, 2020 17:50
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As a moron and homeowner, what steps can I take to ensure system performance and longevity beyond keeping on top of replacing filters? System is likely 12+ years old and works fine most of the time.
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Jun 29, 2020 18:45
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Cleaning the condensing unit outside should be done at least once a year I'd say. If the coils on that get clogged with dirt, your unit will have problems running, and a dirty coil lowers your performance. It's like an hour, maybe, to do it as long as it doesn't get really dirty. You can clean it off with a hose, but you need to spray from the inside out. Edit: This is actually a pretty good list of things to do in the spring. https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/clean-your-air-conditioner-condenser-unit/
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Jun 29, 2020 21:15
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Oh awesome, thanks! I’ll give that a shot once it cools off a touch so we all don’t roast while I’m docking around. One other thing, we have a single unit dual zone setup and every so often one or both of the zones won’t blow air. It’ll usually sort itself out after a few hours of being left alone so I just turn off that zone entirely so the AC isn’t churning away for nothing. Is that DIY territory to diagnose and resolve or are we moving into pro stuff?
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Jun 29, 2020 21:32
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Yeah something ain't right there zenintrude. Have you cleaned the condenser coil? Replaced the filters? Those can have a huge impact on performance, especially the condenser cleaning. Mine only had a 1/16 skin of fuzz and pollen this spring but you wouldn't believe the difference it made simply shopvacing it clean. I'm surprised they didn't put return registers into each room in the first place. Hard to push cold air into a room if the stuffy air can't get out. I'm just hoping they didn't do a barely adequate job with too small ducting or something.
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Jun 29, 2020 22:49
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Thank you all for your responses and advice. I'll try to answer your questions as best I can so that hopefully I can drill down further on things to investigate. Also, on the advice of skipdogg, I have a tech from another AC company - very, very well regarded if online reviews are to be believed - coming tomorrow to look it over.skipdogg posted:I'm not an HVAC pro, but I would guess you have an airflow issue, not a capacity issue. I had a 2.5 ton 14 seer unit in my last house, and it was 1750 sq ft in South Central Texas. It kept the house at 71 even on 100 degree days. The filters are clean and replaced fairly often; it's a 2019 Trane, so I'm assuming that the normal filters I get from Amazon or the Grocery store should be fine, but I'll make sure to ask the tech about that when they come tomorrow. I was told by a duct specialist from the company that installed the A/C and later blew in the insulation and added the returns that the duct work is good, but perhaps this is not the case? I do know that the force of the air coming out of the central vents ~feels~ much more forceful than the air coming out of the bedrooms and other more perimeter-located vents. Should the same force - for lack of a better term - be felt at each vent? I'm assuming that might better help equalize the house temps, but would it correct the fact that it's slipping from a constant 73 to somewhere around 75 in the late afternoon on 91-92 degree days? H110Hawk posted:Modern system with modern insulation and modern windows you should call the original installer and say it isn't working. At 1.5 years old they should just good will or very cheaply fix that. My 2.5 Ton cools my 1250sqft 1947 house with those same amenities just fine. For all you know the trunk has sprung a leak or your piping has leaked all your refrigerant into the atmosphere. Water should basically be trickling out of your condensation pipe as well given it's Florida where you can get hydrated by just taking a deep breath of air. Even here in SoCal I get a steady drip while it's running. I have a tendency to agree... the only outlier is the dark roof, so I was (am?) afraid that the issue was one related to a potentially abnormally hot attic that isn't being insulated enough. That said, as I stated earlier it has new blown in insulation, although it was done by the same people who installed the AC and the returns, so I guess it's possible that the application of the insulation could not have been done well/properly? Unfortunately my installer seems to have the feeling that "South Florida is hot and AC sounds like it's performing normally" despite my instance that it's not the case. Not sure what recourse I have there other than to write a bad review, which I did... they promptly called me up and offered a $500 partial refund, so I guess that's how they try to fix things. I did check the condensation pipe and it is dripping and there is pooled, mossy water in the area where it drips/drains... I can take video/pictures later if that's helpful. kastein posted:Yeah something ain't right there zenintrude. Have you cleaned the condenser coil? Replaced the filters? Those can have a huge impact on performance, especially the condenser cleaning. Mine only had a 1/16 skin of fuzz and pollen this spring but you wouldn't believe the difference it made simply shopvacing it clean. I haven't cleared the condenser coil, but I have replaced the filters. When the tech is here tomorrow, I will ask them about it and possibly have them clean it then and there if that is part of the visit.
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Jun 30, 2020 16:34
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Hello, There has been little water puddles underneath my furnace (installed 2015) since I bought the house last year ago. Last year I had someone take a look and they said the problem was the drain PVC pipe wasn't properly connected so they...did something. This summer the water has returned. I didn't care until today when the entire line coming from the outside unit was covered in ice. I turned off the AC and turned on the blower to thaw it out. Tomorrow I'll do some cleaning of the outside unit, but I'm really curious what's going on in the inside. Especially since the inside unit had a lot of water coming out of it. My question is related to the below picture. Lots of water coming from around the blue lines areas all around the unit as things unthawed. I tried unscrewing section "0", but then realized it's not like a panel I can remove. I assume -1 is the same thing. Pieces 1 and 2 are things that are really wrapped in some sort of tape. Can I remove the tape and then remove those sides and look inside? It is worth it? Should I focus on the PVC drain and remove that and then try to re-seal it? https://imgur.com/a/PeV1nfA I'm also having a similar problem as Zenitrude where my upstairs is just not getting cooled like I want it to. I had my ducts sealed with Aeroseal and it helped a bit, but I wish more air would flow upstairs. So, I close my downstairs vents, but apparently that leads to low airflow that leads to my entire system icing up. Blech  .
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Jul 1, 2020 02:44
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the water leaking out is probably because a large amount of ice built up on the inside, and is now melting and not making it down the white pvc drain. you need to get into the red section in your image, the yellow is just a sheet metal adapter to move air from the furnace to the evap. Evaporator (inside bit) icing up is caused by not being able to transfer enough heat "Into" the evap to keep the temp above freezing. (SIMPLIFICATION). So you need to check a few things: 1 Airflow: filter clean, blower wheel blades clean, motor working ok, motor set at proper speed. ductwork unobstructed, return vents open, sufficient supply vents open. 2 coil heat transfer ability: evap clean (good luck, they are very annoying to get into), outside unit clean 3: refrigerant level: if you have low refrigerant, you can't make the right pressure. this is going to be above the level of most DIY folks. start with 1 and 2 if your not icing with all your vents open, try adjusting downstairs to like 1/2 or 2/3 closed, that may be enough to skate by on marginal airflow.
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Jul 1, 2020 03:12
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H110Hawk posted:I like the higher MERV on the Lennox filter system, the Trane stuff seems to jump to ozone generators and UV from there, and Trane is really shifty on their Ozone levels from their website. Lennox has similar systems. I don't want either. I could really use someone telling me I'm a moron to spend $6,000 on a reduction in "whoosh" noise in the house that makes it hard to hear dialog on the TV because I have awful hearing. Thanks. I know this is last page, but I paid extra for a Trane XV18 system over some of the cheaper options we had avaiable, and I don't regret it at all even now, knowing that I probably will never fully recoup the additional cost via energy savings, but the reduction in noise for us has been substantial and it's nice having it run at 40-60% most of the time. I will say though that we also had two additional returns added, since it seems like almost all home builders undersize the primary return, and that helped to make a difference also in terms of the noise we hear in the hallway where our return is located.
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Jul 1, 2020 18:08
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SourKraut posted:I know this is last page, but I paid extra for a Trane XV18 system over some of the cheaper options we had avaiable, and I don't regret it at all even now, knowing that I probably will never fully recoup the additional cost via energy savings, but the reduction in noise for us has been substantial and it's nice having it run at 40-60% most of the time. I just signed for the cheaper one, calling in the credit card deposit momentarily. I don't think our return is specifically undersized, but I will ask about it when they are here as I think improving ductwork will lower my noise level tremendously. I think just getting to a 5" deep filter of a similar merv rating to what I'm doing with my 1" one will help.
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Jul 1, 2020 18:37
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home hvac systems have worked just fine for 60 years without fancy variable speed. You'll be fine. and yes, a 5" deep filter will help.
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Jul 1, 2020 18:44
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H110Hawk posted:
I wouldn't worry about the unit and constant vs variable speed; in our case, the condenser is right outside our bedroom wall where our bed is, and the main (and originally, only) return was right outside the door to our bedroom, so going to variable speed was as much about quality of life noise reduction as anything else. If the condenser hadn't been outside our bedroom, I'd have probably looked at constant or two-speed units instead. Regarding the ducting, you should definitely have them do a Manual D if they haven't, but a kinda "rough" rule of thumb I had heard, which is probably not a great way to look at it though, is that you should have 200 sq. in. of return area per ton. So in our home's case, the Manual D showed we needed about 4.8 tons of cooling capacity, and we had a 5 ton unit, but we only had a single 20x30 return. We ended up adding two 14x20 returns to a couple of other rooms, and I think that's probably helped the furnace/air handler to run more efficiently while also reducing noise. I also try to go with lower headloss but still pleated filters, and wish now we'd have done a thicker filter (all three of our returns now are still 1", although I'm pretty sure they could probably take a 2" depth filter and I'm going to try that at some point). MRC48B posted:home hvac systems have worked just fine for 60 years without fancy variable speed. Yeah, it was more a QOL thing than anything else.
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Jul 1, 2020 19:24
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SourKraut posted:Regarding the ducting, you should definitely have them do a Manual D if they haven't, but a kinda "rough" rule of thumb I had heard, which is probably not a great way to look at it though, is that you should have 200 sq. in. of return area per ton. So in our home's case, the Manual D showed we needed about 4.8 tons of cooling capacity, and we had a 5 ton unit, but we only had a single 20x30 return. QOL is all I'm caring about here. Looks like our return is slightly undersized based on tonnage rule of thumb then, it's 14x30/420sqin. MRC48B posted:home hvac systems have worked just fine for 60 years without fancy variable speed. The USA insisting on loving single speed is nuts to me. The rest of the world has been variable for a long long time. I know it's going to be fine. I'll sleep fine on the $6000.
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Jul 1, 2020 19:41
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Oh don't get me wrong, variable speed is great. if i didn't live in a poverty spec apartment with window units I would buy variable speed everything. the price premium in the US for it is bonkers, and you'll never see an energy savings payback in most cases, but single speed poo poo still works. and it's easier and cheaper to troubleshoot and fix.
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Jul 1, 2020 19:51
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MRC48B posted:Oh don't get me wrong, variable speed is great. if i didn't live in a poverty spec apartment with window units I would buy variable speed everything. That's what I don't get is the price premium given its like $1000-1500/ton for minisplits. I know why it's there (because freedom) but gently caress their pretending it's new and special.
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Jul 1, 2020 20:06
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zenintrude posted:Hoping for some thoughts on my quandary... apologies for all the Not an HVAC dude... But have you tested the temp difference across a return and exit? It's my understanding that you want about 20 degrees F. If you're getting this you may have airflow issues / insulation issues like I believe I have. I get about a 10° differential between and inside due to weird airflow a big single pane picture window and having a bedroom that's warmer due to nearly a 20ft run of duct with old poo poo windows. (Most windows in house are newer)
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Jul 2, 2020 03:01
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Well, crap. I cleaned the outside unit and opened all the vents on the inside. I also removed the "-1" side of my internal unit to look at those evaporator coils. Even though I was able to remove a few odd woodchips from the drain pan of my A-thingy, all the fins are clean and the drain is fine. After three hours running the AC, I opened it back up and the A-thingy had a ton of ice on it. My AC unit has a big "042" on the model number, so that makes me believe it's a 3.5 ton unit that's servicing my 3500 square foot house, so I'm assuming that's fine as well. Next steps? Do I call a real HVAC guy? Do I renew my overpriced $600 home warranty hoping they'll give eventually me a new AC unit? Do I maybe look at asking about coolant leaks in my lines? Does my blower fan need some sort of upgrade? Like, I can run my air conditioner for an hour, then run the fan for an hour to make it defrost for only so long before I drink myself to death from the stress.
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Jul 2, 2020 04:57
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Gimpalimpa posted:Well, crap. I cleaned the outside unit and opened all the vents on the inside. I also removed the "-1" side of my internal unit to look at those evaporator coils. Even though I was able to remove a few odd woodchips from the drain pan of my A-thingy, all the fins are clean and the drain is fine. After three hours running the AC, I opened it back up and the A-thingy had a ton of ice on it. My AC unit has a big "042" on the model number, so that makes me believe it's a 3.5 ton unit that's servicing my 3500 square foot house, so I'm assuming that's fine as well. next step is to call a real HVAC guy, based on what you are saying you need someone with HVAC gauges to look at pressures / temps etc. It's possible that you're low on refrigerant and have a leak somewhere, could just be old seals on your shrader valve, could be in the lineset somewhere, could be coils etc etc etc. Re the $600 warranty for how long. Keep in mind they'll send you the lowest bidder, it's a gamble but depending on leak location etc you might be looking at a decent bill, you can always call for a checkup and get an estimate and toss the guy 1-200 to diagnose and tell you what it'll cost you to fix and then see what the warranty would cover.. if it's replacement of coil in air handler and or AC unit it'll probably save you some change.
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Jul 2, 2020 14:27
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I had a real guy come out. Last year a guy refilled coolant and today I'm at 40 psi when it's supposed to be like 70. Apparently this means a new unit. I'm renewing my home warranty and hoping for the best.
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Jul 2, 2020 22:14
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replacement for a leaking unit < 6 years old. jfc.
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Jul 2, 2020 22:25
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MRC48B posted:replacement for a leaking unit < 6 years old. jfc. That screams "installed by the plumber/a handyman". Let me guess, it's a Goodman?
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Jul 2, 2020 23:00
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To me it says "service tech that gets unit sales commissions"
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Jul 2, 2020 23:03
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MRC48B posted:To me it says "service tech that gets unit sales commissions" Also a very strong contender.
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Jul 2, 2020 23:15
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Gimpalimpa posted:I had a real guy come out. Last year a guy refilled coolant and today I'm at 40 psi when it's supposed to be like 70. Apparently this means a new unit. I'm renewing my home warranty and hoping for the best. If your pipes are leaking then you've got a plumbing problem, if your units are leaking it should be a warranty problem. Neither are unit replacement money, and I imagine your new home warranty policy specifically excludes the pipes from fitting to fitting, and anything covered by another warranty. (Though who knows, maybe they somehow cover labor without the unit itself, I doubt it.)
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Jul 2, 2020 23:24
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Gimpalimpa posted:I had a real guy come out. Last year a guy refilled coolant and today I'm at 40 psi when it's supposed to be like 70. Apparently this means a new unit. I'm renewing my home warranty and hoping for the best. When this happened to me, I had to replace my evaporator coil inside the unit. There were issues in the past with formicary corrosion causing microfissures in the coil and a slow leak in the system. I put like 6 or 7 pounds of 410 in my old system over 2 service calls because they couldn't find the leak. Same symptoms as you. Reduced cooling capacity, coil freezing over. You shouldn't need a new unit, but you do need to find the source of the leak and have it repaired. If you're lucky the parts might still be covered under warranty. Hopefully your home warranty covers labor and refrigerant. My repair bill was a little over 1400 dollars. 1000 of that was labor and refrigerant, the coil itself was only 400 bucks or so . A full on basic trane replacement quote was 6,000 dollars, so I repaired the system. It was only 6 years old at the time, and the repair company and I figured the compressor would probably last about 12. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Jul 2, 2020 |
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Jul 2, 2020 23:37
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Sorry, I've misspoke earlier. The outside AC unit is from 2001 and they apparently don't make those parts anymore. Inside blower/furnace is 2015. Another guy came out and said what's likely to happen is the warranty will cover 1800 to replace the A-coils (which look new? So I'm not sure where things are leaking from, but oh well?) and I can apply that to the rest of a unit that totals 4k. Both seemed under the impression that it was going to be impossible to find the leak in all those coils. One guy told me it would be illegal for him to add more coolant, the other guy told me that he could add more. This was going to end up $90/lb to add coolant to the system after the warranty covered $10/lb. I'm pretty OK replacing the AC and I don't have the skills to solder pipes or anything like that.
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Jul 3, 2020 02:13
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Gimpalimpa posted:. One guy told me it would be illegal for him to add more coolant, the other guy told me that he could add more. this is a lie quote:Both seemed under the impression that it was going to be impossible to find the leak in all those coils this is also a lie. quote:Sorry, I've misspoke earlier. The outside AC unit is from 2001 and they apparently don't make those parts anymore. lie number 3. but yeah, lifespan is 15-20 years, replacing it is your least stressful way forward. get a good warranty.
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Jul 3, 2020 02:42
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I hate people. Thanks for being honest, everyone.
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Jul 3, 2020 03:38
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Can homeowners legally buy r-22? I honestly don't know. I always have to put my epa card on file wherever I've bought but that seems obvious for commercial stuff.
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Jul 3, 2020 04:43
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glynnenstein posted:Can homeowners legally buy r-22? I honestly don't know. I always have to put my epa card on file wherever I've bought but that seems obvious for commercial stuff. No. I mean unless the homeowner has an epa card. Wanna buy some r22? You gotta come pump it out on Tuesday.
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Jul 3, 2020 05:05
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Also, it's refrigerant, not coolant. I'm not sure if that's your phrase choice or the techs but if it's the techs... Find another one. You aren't a pro so getting that wrong is 100% understandable, but if the HVAC guy is saying it, he has no business working on your equipment.
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Jul 3, 2020 16:48
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we've got one of those standalone "portable" (it weighs like 75 lbs) ac units that attaches to a window with a hose. Delonghi PAC AN125HPEC having an odd issue with it. we just moved it to the basement, where we usually use a dehumidifier to control humidity. the dehumidifier has no problem keeping humidity at 50-60% even on rainy days, it's just pretty warm in the summer since it produces heat. while the ac does a great job of cooling the area, it's having the opposite of the intended effect on humidity and will shoot it up to 70%+ in a few hours of running. the seal sucks on the hose and window adapter but i don't think that's the problem since turning the ac off and the dehumidifier on will bring the humidity back down pretty quickly, even with the hose and lovely adapter still in the window. it's been less than an hour since i turned the dehumidifier back on and it's brought the humidity back down from 74% to 63% already. i checked the little water tank in the ac unit and there wasn't much in it. the manual and marketing materials claim it's supposed to help control humidity, which makes sense since it's an ac unit. it even has a dehumidifier mode but i tried that for a few hours a couple days ago and it didn't help with the humidity problem. also tried running the ac and dehumidifier at the same time (lol) and the ac overpowered the dehumidifier and kept humidity around 70% what the hell is going on?
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Jul 4, 2020 13:21
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Single hose AC units take air from the space, and use it to cool the condenser before dumping it outside. Your ac unit is bringing air in from other areas, and moisture with it. Also, AC units primarily work on changing the temperature, de humidification is a bonus It will not be as effective as a purpose built dehumidfier. Also, what you are looking at is RELATIVE humidity, as in, the the amount of water contained in X amount of air, RELATIVE to what temperature the air is. hot air holds a lot of water, colder air holds less. So if you bring an AC unit in which drops the air temp down, the dehum also has to work harder to pull water out of the air. at the same time, it also has to do more work, because as the temp goes down the RH goes up, because the amount of water stays the same (except in this case it doesn't, because we know the ac is bringing moist air from elsewhere in)
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Jul 4, 2020 15:03
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so it's creating negative pressure in the room?
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Jul 4, 2020 17:04
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turd in my singlet posted:so it's creating negative pressure in the room? Yes. Some of the intake air goes over the evap and back into the room - that's the cold air. Some of the intake air goes over the condenser (the hot side) and out the window through that hose. That air needs to be "makeup air" from somewhere, and that's gonna be wherever the room is leakiest. Around the door, etc. This is the biggest problem all single hose portable ACs have. When we put "spot coolers" in data centers (read: really big portable AC units) they are two hose: air comes in from outside to flow over the condenser and back outside through another hose. It's entirely a closed loop. On the cold side air is drawn in from the room, over the evap and back into the room as cold air.
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Jul 4, 2020 17:12
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Motronic posted:When we put "spot coolers" in data centers (read: really big portable AC units) they are two hose: air comes in from outside to flow over the condenser and back outside through another hose. It's entirely a closed loop. On the cold side air is drawn in from the room, over the evap and back into the room as cold air.  I love doug's discount datacenters. We often resorted to putting box fans in open areas of ladder racking or the floor to help push air up to blend it with the the other less dense installs next to us.
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Jul 4, 2020 17:50
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| # ? May 16, 2024 23:52 |
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My favorite are purpose-built datacenters north of 40degrees that have absolutely no provision for economizing. Yep, we just run DX or the chiller 24/7/365, even if it's -10 outside 
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Jul 4, 2020 19:03
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