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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is there a boat thread somewhere? I have to do some woodwork on a boat and have....questions. Nautical Insanity in AI: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3682371
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Jun 29, 2020 21:24
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Eskaton posted:I have an older house (1920ish) with a front porch over the basement and I think there's evidence of water getting through it to the joists. what would be the best way to deal with replacing that porch and keeping it water tight. Is it enclosed or open? Where is the water coming in? What areas of the floor framing are showning signs of water damage?
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Jun 29, 2020 23:02
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Rexxed posted:Nautical Insanity in AI: Thanks-I would not have thought to look in AI!
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Jun 30, 2020 02:29
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fart store posted:I've got a 12" Hitachi 15 A miter saw (C12RSH2). Is there anything stopping me from putting a metal-cutting blade on it and using it to cut thin-walled mild steel 2.5" - 3" exhaust pipes? Super black or gatorboard seem to be solid options after more research. The specific poster(s) I'm looking to mount on board are is a set of 3 vertically arranged map segments. The point of keeping them borderless is to minimize the gaps between segments. They're also larger than the commonly stocked board sizes. The map segments are 33.5" x 44" and the standard large size of mounting board is 32" x 40". I found a couple places that sell 4'x8' sheets but that'll end up being pretty expensive with shipping and minimum order quantities. I still might go that route anyway.
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Jun 30, 2020 06:24
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Call for a DIY IK https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3930843
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Jun 30, 2020 15:53
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My wood floor has been worn over the years, and it is now claiming many socks as victims of its cheese grater-like properties. What is the most straightforward and foolproof way to smoothe it when I don't have a whole lot of tools? It's also good some visible wood patterns that I don't want to erase with some weird patternless shapes from me treating it.
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Jul 1, 2020 14:25
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ufarn posted:What is the most straightforward and foolproof way to smoothe it when I don't have a whole lot of tools? A rug 
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Jul 1, 2020 16:13
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Nevets posted:A rug
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Jul 1, 2020 16:34
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ufarn posted:It's by the desk and office chair, and rugs suck for vacuum cleaning tbh. It only requires two tools and a high tolerance for "oh gently caress": a walk behind sander and something to collect the fine sawdust (and various veneers). Hire it out or buy a rug.
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Jul 1, 2020 16:39
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I bought a candy machine at a local store that's like half salvage, half thrift store: What's the best way to cleanup the plastic? It got some scratches, a few deep ones I imagine I can't get rid of, and very yellowed.
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Jul 1, 2020 21:08
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DrBouvenstein posted:I bought a candy machine at a local store that's like half salvage, half thrift store: I think you'd have the best success by treating it like a hazy, yellowed car headlight lens. Grim determination and microabrasives.
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Jul 1, 2020 21:18
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Alternately, you can sand it to 400-600 grit and then clearcoat it with a good clearcoat. The finish will be clear and smooth despite the hazy look after sanding. If it's going to be in the sun, the clearcoat will prevent yellowing from UV. If you polish to a fine finish like canyoneer suggested, car wax could be used for UV protection.
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Jul 1, 2020 22:36
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Ok, I'll treat it like I did my headlights that I re-finished last summer. I should still have all the supplies, various high grit sandpapers, a buffing compound paste, and several buffing sponges and cloths.
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Jul 2, 2020 17:12
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taqueso posted:Alternately, you can sand it to 400-600 grit and then clearcoat it with a good clearcoat. The finish will be clear and smooth despite the hazy look after sanding. If it's going to be in the sun, the clearcoat will prevent yellowing from UV. Is that how it works then? Quite fine sanding plus clearcoat to fill the fine scratches, or extremely fine sanding until there aren't any big enough to catch the light? What's the grit limit? 600 is already quite a bit.
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Jul 2, 2020 17:49
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I think 2000-4000grit is what people talk about (I went the clear coat route). Typically you would use a liquid compound/polish for the later steps. You can buy headlight polishing kits with various things in them, or bottle of plastic polish (or normal polishing compound i think). A new technique was revealed in the AI general thread some days ago - DOT3 brake fluid. Obviously you would want to check on a small spot to see how it goes in case the plastic is incompatible. But I don't know what they would use besides polycarbonate for that application. Here are some posts, more stuff in the thread but these seemed like the most useful: Charles posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W83P9VjQ7E&t=577s Charles posted:Oh hey topical, this just dropped on youtube
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Jul 3, 2020 00:39
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Jaded Burnout posted:Is that how it works then? Quite fine sanding plus clearcoat to fill the fine scratches, or extremely fine sanding until there aren't any big enough to catch the light? Wax works the same way, it fills in small scratches and makes an imperfect surface flatter, as long as the scratches are small enough.
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Jul 3, 2020 00:48
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taqueso posted:I think 2000-4000grit is what people talk about (I went the clear coat route). Typically you would use a liquid compound/polish for the later steps. You can buy headlight polishing kits with various things in them, or bottle of plastic polish (or normal polishing compound i think). Yes that was me chatting in the AI thread  taqueso posted:That's exactly right. Gotcha, thanks.
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Jul 3, 2020 07:34
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yes that was me chatting in the AI thread
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Jul 3, 2020 09:41
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I have a garden and currently I'm expanding it. However, the one available spigot is not near where this garden has to be due to terrain etc on the property. So basically I have to run like 400 feet of garden hose just to reach it, which is annoying to deal with. Is there a DIY option that isn't laying a proper underground line out to this area? Its about 300 feet from the house proper. And pretty level to get there from the house. Maybe something like a shallowly buried PVC line with hookups on each end ( maybe 6 inches deep) that would only be used for warm weather and disconnected in the freezing periods ?
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Jul 3, 2020 14:10
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I have a tiny, tiny bathroom with the shower-head situated a little over a foot from the door. Water is getting onto the wood floor outside despite my best efforts: pointing the shower head away, cleaning deposits, closing the door and covering the entrance with a sheet. There is a tiled door threshold but its not high enough, water is getting onto it somehow. I want to prevent any further water damage. The floor directly outside is already kinda jacked up. Suggestions? I was vaguely thinking I could install some sort of rubber flap on the threshold that would be flush with the door when closed. I'm not sure where to begin looking for such a thing. Pics below. Sorry its a bit grubby, we clean on sundays.    E: gap between door and threshold is about 1.5 cm on one side, .5 cm on the other. It's an old building that didn't have bathrooms originally so the geometry is all over the place. Fruits of the sea fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Jul 3, 2020 |
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Jul 3, 2020 14:22
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Sylink posted:I have a garden and currently I'm expanding it. However, the one available spigot is not near where this garden has to be due to terrain etc on the property. So basically I have to run like 400 feet of garden hose just to reach it, which is annoying to deal with. Rent a ditch witch and do it properly. It's fun!
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Jul 3, 2020 14:23
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Yah I'd like to, but I need some semi permanent method atm as I'm not sure if it will stay where its needed. So I guess just hoses for now temporarily
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Jul 3, 2020 15:07
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Fruits of the sea posted:I have a tiny, tiny bathroom with the shower-head situated a little over a foot from the door. Water is getting onto the wood floor outside despite my best efforts: pointing the shower head away, cleaning deposits, closing the door and covering the entrance with a sheet. There is a tiled door threshold but its not high enough, water is getting onto it somehow. Had  here. Used a rubber garden separator (a 5mm thick rubber band) that was cut to measurements like those:black and red is the rubber band itself, black being the part that is attached to the inside of the door and red is the part that is sticking out below the door line the sticking out part (red) has to be bigger than the green line (the height between the door and the threshold) and a bit smaller than the width of the threshold (blue) so it doesn't just get stuck rolled under the door. So when you have it attached and close the door, the lower (red) part hits the outside of the threshold and drags on top of it to pop out outside the threshold and the water will run down the door and down the rubber band and not in the gap between the door and threshold  hope this helps
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Jul 3, 2020 16:00
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Sylink posted:I have a garden and currently I'm expanding it. However, the one available spigot is not near where this garden has to be due to terrain etc on the property. So basically I have to run like 400 feet of garden hose just to reach it, which is annoying to deal with. What's the proper version in your mind? Because it sounds like the difference might be depth of trench and material, and if you're digging a 6" trench to half rear end it with $30 of materials when the proper job is (guessing) 18" / $100 is just do it right the first time.
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Jul 3, 2020 16:12
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AntherUslessPoster posted:Had Thanks, I hadn't thought of garden separators, but that's exactly the material I was thinking of. Unfortunately the door closes entirely outside the threshold so attaching it there would just funnel water onto the wood floor. Which is pretty odd now that I think about it, but no way to fix that without messing with the doorway itself. My backup option would be to attach the rubber separator to the inside or outside of the threshold, sticking up a couple centimeters. Which is not optimal but I don't know if there is a better solution.
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Jul 3, 2020 17:26
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Fruits of the sea posted:Thanks, I hadn't thought of garden separators, but that's exactly the material I was thinking of. You could in theory shave the door to give yourself a few mm of clearance, then put a small, thin, flexible bit of silicone strip or the worlds ugliest sweep on the inner edge of the door, hoping to give you some kind of gasket? When is the water getting on the wood? During the shower, or when you open the door and step out?
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Jul 3, 2020 17:32
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You need a train/drip trim, usually for outside doors but maybe it'll do the job here?
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Jul 3, 2020 17:49
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cakesmith handyman posted:What's the proper version in your mind? Because it sounds like the difference might be depth of trench and material, and if you're digging a 6" trench to half rear end it with $30 of materials when the proper job is (guessing) 18" / $100 is just do it right the first time. I'm in northeast Ohio so it seems like a water line has to go to 48" depth ? Ideally I'd run directly from the well over to the garden area. Only because if I decide to get a hoop house of some kind I might want water in the winter available. Even then I suppose water just sitting there could be a danger. The other option is from a ~ 2 acre pond with plenty of water in it. But its down about 35 feet from the garden area, so would need a pump to go up that slope, and again thats 300+ feet of 2 inch hose. Looking into that really, but same trenching issue long term. The pond is more environmental friendly that emptying the aquifer. Really the problem stems from the well/water sources being as far as away as possible from the available area for releatively level garden plots. Sylink fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jul 3, 2020 |
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Jul 3, 2020 19:22
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H110Hawk posted:When is the water getting on the wood? During the shower, or when you open the door and step out? Welp, turns out I've been missing a crucial part of the puzzle because I always take my glasses off before showering  Just had a shower so I could take a pic for the thread. Turns out water is splashing up and hitting the door, from where it drips onto the floor and threshold. There's a spray of water droplets on the door. cakesmith handyman posted:You need a train/drip trim, usually for outside doors but maybe it'll do the job here? Looks like this might be the best solution. Thank you for helping me out, DIY!
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Jul 3, 2020 19:36
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Sylink posted:Really the problem stems from the well/water sources being as far as away as possible from the available area for releatively level garden plots.
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Jul 3, 2020 20:41
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I want to hang some shelves on either side of a window, using that metal track system with brackets. Wall is here, with studs marked with blue tape.  You can see that they are spaced differently on each side of the window. The types of standards I'm using are these:  I was going to do two tracks/standards on each side of the window, but it looks like the spacing is going to be an issue. The measurement from window to wall is 45" on each side. I wanted the shelves to span across the whole section on either side of the window. For a single slot standard I read you want to space tracks 16-24" apart. With the way the studs are spaced, I don't see this being possible. There would be too much shelf overhang from the brackets. I would need a third standard in each side. But I'm thinking it would need drywall anchors. I'm just nervous about weight capacity. The shelves will basically be replacing these ones here (it's a bit messy right now as I reconfigure the room):  As you can see, I do have large books. Not a crazy amount. But I'd still rather be safe about it. Anyway, I just thought I'd get another opinion. Would you put all the standards right into the studs, even though it won't be evenly spaced on each side? Or would you use drywall anchors and so they hang symmetrically?
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Jul 3, 2020 21:25
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anaaki posted:
Look at you Mr/Mrs fancy "I know where the studs are" person. If you sink a screw into each stud you will be fine. 1 stud is worth several drywall anchors. I wouldn't do anything other than the studs and never think about it again.
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Jul 3, 2020 21:28
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H110Hawk posted:Look at you Mr/Mrs fancy "I know where the studs are" person. If you sink a screw into each stud you will be fine. 1 stud is worth several drywall anchors. I wouldn't do anything other than the studs and never think about it again. Hah, only after many pass throughs with a cheap stud finder and lots of wall knocking that sent my dog into a frenzy. Helps when you grow up with a carpenter dad. Alrighty. Studs it is. I was less worried about it looking symmetrical and most concerned about the weight. This eases my mind. Thanks!
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Jul 3, 2020 22:24
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Flipperwaldt posted:Maybe put a tank or barrels or some other reservoir in the place where you need it, and fill it up seasonally and/or collect rainwater in it. I would but this is a proto-market garden for some revenue/profit being planned at the same time. So I need quite a bit of water some times.
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Jul 4, 2020 03:33
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anaaki posted:I'm just nervous about weight capacity. The shelves will basically be replacing these ones here (it's a bit messy right now as I reconfigure the room): If you screw the tracks into the studs the brackets will hold alot of weight. I use them for lumber storage in my workshop with 3 tracks 32" apart (every other stud). A couple hundred pounds of 2x pine on each trio of brackets and I haven't had any trouble. The main reason you'd want the tracks closer together is to prevent a thin shelf sagging in the middle.
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Jul 4, 2020 14:45
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I need to replace a bathroom vanity but the whole wall is already tiled. The current vanity isn’t attached in any way to the wall. Any good way to make sure whatever we buy stays place?
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Jul 4, 2020 18:57
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KKKLIP ART posted:I need to replace a bathroom vanity but the whole wall is already tiled. The current vanity isn’t attached in any way to the wall. Any good way to make sure whatever we buy stays place?
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Jul 4, 2020 19:18
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Use a guide made out of a piece of sheet wood like MDF or ply to stop the bit wandering on the tiles.
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Jul 4, 2020 20:05
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Slugworth posted:Attach it to the wall? Stud finder, masonry/porcelain bit, and a few screws will do you just fine. So stud finder will go through the tiles well enough? That is interesting. Easy enough.
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Jul 4, 2020 20:05
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I find that a rotary tool with a teeny diamond bit works great to drill a real precise pilot hole before using a tile bit on a drill.
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Jul 4, 2020 21:44
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