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So at the end of the day, magnet mini bases and metal sheets, rather than washers on minis with magnet sheets?
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Jul 8, 2020 15:55
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Gameko posted:So at the end of the day, magnet mini bases and metal sheets, rather than washers on minis with magnet sheets? The latter sounds smarter as then putting stuff in cohesion on a table won't run the risk of accidentally having them all clump together
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Jul 8, 2020 15:56
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There's also the option of putting washers in the base, and then gluing magnets in position in the case.
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Jul 8, 2020 16:03
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I think I have a better solution. I put magnets in each slot of movement trays, washers in bases, and sheet metal in the bottoms of those locking stacking containers. You don't end up with the problem of models doing funky stuff when the magnets get too close to each other, it sticks in the box without moving, and movement trays are good poo poo. One of the great things about the stacking containers is that if you have extra-large models (ex: Keeper of Secrets), you can make spacers / taller boxes by cutting the bottom out of a container. I'm going to buy a load more of them next time I see them on sale.
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Jul 8, 2020 16:26
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Gameko posted:So at the end of the day, magnet mini bases and metal sheets, rather than washers on minis with magnet sheets? I do both?
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Jul 8, 2020 17:28
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washers on bases, metal sheet in tray magnets are for the weak who don't believe in the emperor's protection
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Jul 8, 2020 17:34
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Yeast posted:This has been a requirement pretty much since sprues appeared with half a foot, the left leg and a loincloth being one 'piece' I'd like to do sub-assembly, but it seems like something that requires a airbrush to do effectively (at least in regards to priming). I was seriously thinking about buying an airbrush before Apart from the airbrush, I'd also need to get a respirator, a compressor, a hose adapter (for the Patriot 105, the airbrush I was considering), set up a paint-booth of some kind, buy airbrush thinner, cleaner, etc. I'd also need to get wire and/or cork to hold each individual piece to isolate it for painting. Obviously that stuff isn't that expensive, but I'd have to figure out how to attach the bits in such a way so that I don't end up painting over areas that need to be connected. On top of all of that, I would still need to figure out how to use the airbrush properly, how to clean it properly, what to do to make sure I don't break it, where I can set up a paintbooth in our crappy shed, how to thin the paints for the airbrush, and...  Still, I think it might be something worth investing in at some point, for priming models when the weather is bad, for putting down primer and basecoats better and easier than you can with rattlecan primer, and for whatever other stuff you can do for it. It's just that when I think through all the steps that go into it, I start thinking against it. I'd like to ask (in this post that probably should have been posted in the mini painting thread) what kind of respirator you need for an airbrush. Someone told me a vapor filter was the right kind, but I wanted to confirm that.
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Jul 8, 2020 18:04
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Gameko posted:So at the end of the day, magnet mini bases and metal sheets, rather than washers on minis with magnet sheets? I love my magnets under the bases and using baking trays with lids as containers, extremely easy to do, low cost and super secure. However, if I could find magnet sheets that were strong enough and the cost was okay, I’d prefer not having magnets under the bases. It is a little inconvenient once in a while. Like, sometimes I’ll lift up two models in one hand and the bases snap together, stuff like that. Washer on the bases also makes the bases a little heavier, which is sometimes practical on small/light minis.
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Jul 8, 2020 18:08
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Does anyone put little rubber pads on their bases so that models won't slide off sloped terrain as easily?
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Jul 8, 2020 18:10
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I'm just putting 6mm round magnets on my stuff (maybe a few on larger models) so I don't think cohesion on the game board is going to be affected much
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Jul 8, 2020 18:29
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Max Wilco posted:I'd like to ask (in this post that probably should have been posted in the mini painting thread) what kind of respirator you need for an airbrush. Someone told me a vapor filter was the right kind, but I wanted to confirm that. On the other hand, if you want to use laquers or enamels, you're going to need organic vapour cartridges. This type of filter is also suggested when using most rattle cans, but people usually skip that in favour of doing it outside, for short periods of time.
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Jul 8, 2020 18:56
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Max Wilco posted:Apart from the airbrush, I'd also need to get a respirator, a compressor, a hose adapter (for the Patriot 105, the airbrush I was considering), set up a paint-booth of some kind, buy airbrush thinner, cleaner, etc. I'd also need to get wire and/or cork to hold each individual piece to isolate it for painting. Obviously that stuff isn't that expensive, but I'd have to figure out how to attach the bits in such a way so that I don't end up painting over areas that need to be connected. On top of all of that, I would still need to figure out how to use the airbrush properly, how to clean it properly, what to do to make sure I don't break it, where I can set up a paintbooth in our crappy shed, how to thin the paints for the airbrush, and... I don't have a respirator (just an N95 dust mask), paint-booth, use water to clean the airbrush (Patriot 105 here, too), and mostly paint minis by holding them by their base and accepting that I'm going to get paint on my hands. You could use blu-tack and empty pill bottles to accomplish the same thing if you're painting in subassemblies. The closest thing I have to a paint booth is a cut-up cardboard box I put on the hobby table and some sheets of loose-leaf paper to catch any overspray when I tilt the brush the wrong way like a moron. The Vallejo Model Air range is already formulated to go through an airbrush and the only time I've had to thin anything was when I was trying to do a gradient or glow effect; simple base-coats are fine as long as you're somewhere not unreasonably humid.
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Jul 8, 2020 19:28
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Strobe posted:and mostly paint minis by holding them by their base and accepting that I'm going to get paint on my hands. Just buy some disposable nitrile gloves, makes this a lot less miserable and also protects your models from the oils on your hands. I use one on my left hand for most of my painting now.
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Jul 8, 2020 21:29
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Just a heads up- sister troops are back in GW stock after being sold out for months.
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Jul 8, 2020 21:46
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MRLOLAST posted:Just a heads up- sister troops are back in GW stock after being sold out for months. Oh, that's where my Seraphim on order have been.
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Jul 8, 2020 22:05
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Max Wilco posted:I'd like to ask (in this post that probably should have been posted in the mini painting thread) what kind of respirator you need for an airbrush. Someone told me a vapor filter was the right kind, but I wanted to confirm that. If you never plan on getting into lacquers or enamels a regular particulate filter is fine. Even a P95 mask would be sufficient. Of course at present either is pretty near impossible to find being directed to healthcare workers. If you have a decent spray booth, though, you can probably get away with a well-fitting cloth mask under current circumstances.
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Jul 8, 2020 22:49
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iirc an N95 mask is technically a respirator. Regardless it's just fine for painting purposes.
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Jul 8, 2020 22:53
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MRLOLAST posted:Just a heads up- sister troops are back in GW stock after being sold out for months. *checks canadian website* 
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Jul 8, 2020 23:16
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Is it just me or has the GW websites been weirdly insistent about security checks and CAPTCHA this week? I've had to confirm the community site multiple times so far and now I had to do a check with the store page too.
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Jul 8, 2020 23:28
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Cooked Auto posted:Is it just me or has the GW websites been weirdly insistent about security checks and CAPTCHA this week? I've had to confirm the community site multiple times so far and now I had to do a check with the store page too. Tesla must be rolling out a new model.
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Jul 8, 2020 23:29
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Needing a captcha to visit the community site is bizarre.
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Jul 9, 2020 00:41
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Floppychop posted:Needing a captcha to visit the community site is bizarre. I don't mind doing it once, but several times a day with only a couple of hours between the checks is a bit too much.
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Jul 9, 2020 00:47
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Max Wilco posted:
A respirator is optional, but highly recommended. I'd look at this: https://rzmask.com/collections/trademark-masks (I use 2 of these, one for airbrushing, one for woodworking, they're great!). An airbrush can be had for very little. If you're looking at a 105 (I have one), its good, seriously consider an Iwata Eclipse tho. Similar money, waaaaaay better build quality, seals and doesn't use a special snowflake connector so you can just connect to any off the shelf compressor. Speaking of which, don't spend big bucks on a compressor. There's almost no point. I bought a cheap compressor with a tank in 2008 and have been patiently waiting for it to do die so I can replace it ever since. Fucker is still going. Spray booth is optional, I went with the one that's commonly installed in most human structures, its a large portal with translucent material, operates in both a closed and opened position, and I think the street term is 'window' or some such. Max Wilco posted:Still, I think it might be something worth investing in at some point, for priming models when the weather is bad, for putting down primer and basecoats better and easier than you can with rattlecan primer, and for whatever other stuff you can do for it. It's just that when I think through all the steps that go into it, I start thinking against it. It's 1000% worth it. It will dramatically speed up your painting. From priming, base coating, shading and highlighting + varnishing. Airbrushing is the loving tits. It allows you to have gradations and blends that would take you literally hours to accomplish in... 90 seconds? 2 mins? The thought of painting a 40k vehicle with an honest to goodness paintbrush is now absurd to me. Why would you do it to yourself. Max Wilco posted:I'd like to ask (in this post that probably should have been posted in the mini painting thread) what kind of respirator you need for an airbrush. Someone told me a vapor filter was the right kind, but I wanted to confirm that. Anything is better than nothing. For less than the cost of the Contrast Paint range, you can get an airbrush, compressor, flow improver, corks and cleaner. And it will be the most dramatically poignant moment in upping your painting abilities.It might seem like a daunting obstacle, but everyone I know who moved to airbrushing says the same thing 'I wish I'd done this sooner'
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Jul 9, 2020 01:11
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That's good advice. That said, while the comment that a respirator is optional is correct, that shouldn't be understood as "a face covering is optional". An N95 surgical mask instead of a respirator with N100 cartridges is fine for a hobbyist. But you must use some form of face covering. While acrylics are non-toxic, that doesn't mean they're safe when fired from an airbrush. Once aerosolized, which is the whole point of an airbrush, it's particulate matter in the air. Any inhaled particulates can cause lung scarring. Lung scarring doesn't heal well, and over repeated exposures it builds up into a big problem. This type of injury is insidious; for a long while there's no symptoms. By the time symptoms arrive it may be irreversible.
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Jul 9, 2020 02:44
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Yeast posted:A respirator is optional, but highly recommended. I'd look at this: https://rzmask.com/collections/trademark-masks (I use 2 of these, one for airbrushing, one for woodworking, they're great!). What would you recommend for a compressor? I put together a quick list of everything to calculate the cost, and the compressor (the TC-40T, which I remember someone recommending in another thread) was $150, making it the most expensive item on the list. Badger Patriot 105 - $120 TC-40T Compressor - $150 Vallejo Airbrush Thinner - $10 Iwata Airbrush Cleaner $12 Badger Stynylrez Primer - $15 Airhose Adapter for Badger - $8 Total - $315 That's more that the Contrast Range ($265.20), but that's probably due to my choices. - Here's a modified version with the Iwata and two cheap compressor I found on Amazon. Campbell Hausfeld Air Compressor/PointZero 1/5 HP Airbrush Compressor - $75/$99 Iwata Eclipse - $169 Vallejo Airbrush Thinner - $10 Iwata Airbrush Cleaner $12 Badger Stynylrez Primer - $15 Total (w/ Campbell Hausfield) - $281 Total (w/ PointZero) - $305
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Jul 9, 2020 04:53
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Buy a badger brush during a sale, and the cheapest quiet compressor you can find on amazon will be a-ok. Compressors are where you’ll get screwed. Ain’t no 300 compressor gonna be worth it.
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Jul 9, 2020 04:57
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Gameko posted:Buy a badger brush during a sale, and the cheapest quiet compressor you can find on amazon will be a-ok. I don't know if noise is really a big deal, since I'd be using it out in the shed, and the quiet-running compressors seem a lot pricier. Something to note is that we already have a compressor, but it's a pancake-style compressor, and I was led to believe that the pancake compressors aren't suited for use with an airbrush. That said, I could be wrong, and I could make do with that.
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Jul 9, 2020 05:10
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Max Wilco posted:What would you recommend for a compressor? I put together a quick list of everything to calculate the cost, and the compressor (the TC-40T, which I remember someone recommending in another thread) was $150, making it the most expensive item on the list. Airbrush: https://spraygunner.com/badger-patriot-105-1-fine-gravity-airbrush/ $75 Compressor: https://www.harborfreight.com/1-6-hp-40-psi-oilless-airbrush-compressor-93657.html This coupon: https://go.harborfreight.com/sku/25off/ brings it down to $52.50 Normal hose to Badger adapter: https://spraygunner.com/badger-airbrush-quick-coupling-with-adapter/ $12 The cleaning and other bullshit looks good from your links, price wise. Which puts it at $184.50 all up. If you wanted to, you could splurge and spend more on the compressor to get one with a tank, if you want it to be a bit quieter 
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Jul 9, 2020 05:14
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Yeast posted:Airbrush: https://spraygunner.com/badger-patriot-105-1-fine-gravity-airbrush/ $75  Oh wow! That's a pretty good deal!It looks like both the Badger and adapter aren't in stock right now, but the SprayGunner site and Harbor Freight sound like the places to go.
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Jul 9, 2020 05:45
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Yeast posted:Airbrush: https://spraygunner.com/badger-patriot-105-1-fine-gravity-airbrush/ $75 This is a great post, thank you for your time and effort!
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Jul 9, 2020 07:16
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No worries at all. Airbrushing opens up some fantastic opportunities for us as hobbyists, I strongly, strongly recommend pursuing it if you're at all interested in upskilling yourself.
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Jul 9, 2020 08:57
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I think Swedish Customs are onto my Warhammer bits buying habits.  Turns out they checked my latest order of a Howling Banshee from a UK store.
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Jul 9, 2020 10:45
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My great shame is that I have an airbrush, but I keep painting by brush because I'm scared of change.
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Jul 9, 2020 12:10
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I don't have the space or money for an airbrush so painting everything by brush is what I do. v v
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Jul 9, 2020 13:18
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I was always just afraid of not taking care of one well enough. I don't know what I do wrong but I seem to gently caress up brushes regularly. Somehow always get paint in the ferrule, brushes become irreparably frayed etc. I use soap, I try not to dry the bristles aggressively or anything but before long all of my detail brushes just get hosed up
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Jul 9, 2020 13:28
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Sab669 posted:I was always just afraid of not taking care of one well enough. I switched from using GW brushes to Army Painter brushes specifically because the tip of the brush is longer and as a result I'm less likely to get paint in the ferrule. In reality when I do it's because I'm being lazy and getting paint from the pot with a detail brush instead of a bigger brush. I also try to make sure when I do get paint from the pot and put it on the pallette I immediately put the brush in the water pot and wash the paint off.
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Jul 9, 2020 13:45
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The masters brush cleaner has increased my brush life tenfold, whenever I'm done in a session just wetting the brush and working up a good lather on the cleaner block has kept me from rebuying all my stuff every couple months
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Jul 9, 2020 14:04
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I've tried GW, Army Painter, Privateer Press, and a friend gifted me some more upscale brushes but I can't remember the brand name. I think it was probably just that one way or the other I'd always end up with too much water on the brush and then oops paint. I'm not sure if I was really "doing something wrong", or if I was too impatient not letting brushes dry or what. I'll watch videos of actually really good painters and somehow throughout the entire video their brush always has a perfect tip. I feel like I need some kind of "Painting 99" class that is more about care and etiquette than actually putting paint on models. I know to thin my paints, highlighting, washing, edging -- all that stuff - but I always somehow wind up with frayed rear end brushes before long.
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Jul 9, 2020 14:08
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Four big helps with fraying are: 1. Keep paint away from the ferrule. The metal part where the bristles attach to the brush is very susceptible to damage. 2. Never let paint dry on a brush after you've used it. Wash it ASAP when you're done. 3. Don't wash your brush with hot water. Warm is fine, but HOT can weaken the glue holding the brush together. 4. Store the brush in a manner that doesn't let the bristles bend.
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Jul 9, 2020 14:13
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Sab669 posted:I've tried GW, Army Painter, Privateer Press, and a friend gifted me some more upscale brushes but I can't remember the brand name. Winsor and Newton Series 7 size 1 and 0 + a set of cheap brushes and makeup brushes from China for mixing and drybrushing etc. have served pretty much all my painting needs. I try not to get paint more than halfway up the Winsor brushes and when I do I make sure to give them a dip in Masters cleaner afterwards. When you've dipped them in water, give them a quick wipe on a paper towel so they're damp but not wet. They've held their tip just fine for half a year at least. Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jul 9, 2020 |
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Jul 9, 2020 14:17
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