|
I'd get more quotes for that furnace and AC as well as calling someone else on the repair.. If everything else works a fan is a pretty cheap replacement.. they just want to sell you poo poo or don't want to be bothered spending an hour replacing the fan. 2.5k for the water heater also seems high unless it's a power vent. I got a 40 gal Power vent one installed for like 2k..
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 00:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 15:09 |
|
|
I just got a 50 gal elec tank installed for $1k
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 00:58
|
|
|
Chu020 posted:Fan on the compressor for the central air is intermittently turning off and then the unit makes some fun new noises. It's about 15 yrs old. Our servicing company is saying it probably needs to be replaced, but wasn't sure if we could just get away with replacing the fan on the current unit, if that's all that's going on. Have they tested/tried throwing a start/run capacitor at the compressor? If not, someone should do that. The HVAC people are just now pressure testing my new Trane system for ~$8800. 3 tons, 16 SEER, 80% furnace. New lines etc. I mean, they are getting out like $500 in Freon. Carrier still reminds me of maga hats so I didn't bid them. Get a Lennox and Trane dealer out to bid. Tankless is a luxury item. If you don't need the space of a tankless don't bother with it. Gas water heaters tend to do just fine at making up unless you're a super heavy user. Remember even with a 15 minute shower there is likely still 10 minutes of time to makeup between another person showering, and the water in the tank is hotter than you want your shower so 50gallons goes a long way.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 01:12
|
|
|
Our replacement 5 ton Trane AC and 100k BTU furnace ran $11k including installation.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 02:28
|
|
|
Chu020 those quotes seem really really high
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 03:31
|
|
|
skipdogg posted:Chu020 those quotes seem really really high I am not an AC person but sounds like you might be able to fix it with a new relay/control board, possibly a new compressor pump which should be a couple hundred bucks in parts plus another couple hudo for labor AC people like putting in new systems because the more they sell, the better discount they get from their distributor next year, plus they know exactly how long it's going to take to put it in because that's probably their preferred model/brand etc and they don't have to waste any time loving around troubleshooting what's actually wrong Also also, it's middle of summer so they know they have you over a barrel with a wife and kids potentially baking in the house all summer
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 09:19
|
|
|
3.5 ton 16 SEER HVAC AC/HEAT combo with a difficult rooftop install in expensive SoCal was $8,300 all in (February 2020). For the tankless water heater that's not a bad quote but the HVAC and standard tank quotes are super inflated.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 18:39
|
|
|
Residency Evil posted:Yeah, I've been given the names of a few. Did you find it worth it? Presumably they got an independent appraisal. Did the ultimate value end up being significantly different? The process is still ongoing for me, so I haven't saved anything yet, but other than sending the lawyers some info about reasons the appraisal is too high (in my case the square footage the county has for my house is wrong) it has been entirely hands off. I lost the initial hearing (which is par for the course from what my coworkers say) and the law firm is handling the appeal as part of the original agreement (there was a $100 fee to file the appeal, but that was the county fee rather than a lawyer fee). The process has lasted a year already and will take another X number of months to finish, but it's been hands off for me, I just get an update from the lawyers every now and then letting me know where things stand.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 19:15
|
|
|
So had another repair guy out, it's not the capacitor or control board, it's the fan that needs to be replaced, and that would be $709 alone. But also the unit is running really loud in general, probably signalling an issue with the pump or other parts that would necessitate replacement at some point in the near future. So given the age it seems like moving toward replacement may make more sense. On the plus side, other quotes for replacement have been far lower, like $9200 for a 4 ton, 16 SEER unit and 96% AFUE Trane system, and $10700 for a 2-stage AC system instead. The lowest water heater quote though is still like $2300 ($2500 and $2895 were the other quotes), which seems odd.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 20:05
|
|
|
have you called any dedicated plumbing places for WH replacement? I know a lot of places are HVAC+Plumbing but might we worth calling a local plumbing only place. It also depends on . In terms of repair vs replace.. all depends on your budget an dwaht you feel like doing. 800bux to get a a little more time out of it before you replace it may be what you need, or maybe you've got it in your budget to rip the bandaid and get it all done.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 20:26
|
|
|
Sundae posted:My condo has a (badly labeled/organized) switch & distribution box in a closet to run coax and cat5e to every room. I've been hunting for the actual master connection point for the cat5 for a goddamned week now and I can't find it. Following up on this from earlier: Yep, it was part of the construction defects. The wire just ends in the attic as bare cables.  They never ran it to anything or even put an end on the other side of the cable.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 21:42
|
|
|
Chu020 posted:So had another repair guy out, it's not the capacitor or control board, it's the fan that needs to be replaced, and that would be $709 alone. But also the unit is running really loud in general, probably signalling an issue with the pump or other parts that would necessitate replacement at some point in the near future. So given the age it seems like moving toward replacement may make more sense. Dang, now I feel like I got a little ripped off on my Trane setup.  For the water heater - see if HD or Lowes or whatever will do a Rheam w/ install referral. I bet it's way cheaper and it's truly hard to gently caress up a straight R&R of a tanked heater into the same space if everything has proper disconnects.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 21:47
|
|
|
Am I going to kick myself if I decide to paint and redo the flooring of my new house before moving in? A part of me thinks it'll be good to get all that done before moving everything in, but another part of me thinks I should hold off on projects as moving into a house is going to be complicated enough as it is without home renovation projects. I know for sure we will do painting, but I keep thinking of more things I can do in between closing and moving.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 22:00
|
|
|
Bioshuffle posted:Am I going to kick myself if I decide to paint and redo the flooring of my new house before moving in? You know what makes painting and flooring easier? All your stuff. Do it before. Do as much as humanly possible before. Paint before you do the floors, that way you don't even have to bother with drop cloths or caring about anything.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 22:04
|
|
|
Bioshuffle posted:Am I going to kick myself if I decide to paint and redo the flooring of my new house before moving in? I spent several weeks refinishing all the wood floors in my house before moving in, there is absolutely no way I could have done it after move-in. The fumes from the polyurethane alone would have made the place uninhabitable, not to mention the dust. If all I had to do was replace carpet, yeah I could probably manage that but it would still be a pain in the rear end. Painting is a bit easier to do while you're living in the place compared to flooring work but if you have the time/funds to do both of those things before you are living there I would 1000% recommend it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 22:06
|
|
|
Bioshuffle posted:Am I going to kick myself if I decide to paint and redo the flooring of my new house before moving in? Holy poo poo no. The floor especially is what I'm kicking myself for not doing before we moved in. Painting is (relatively) easy to do whenever. Do the flooring. Don't think twice.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 22:10
|
|
|
Bioshuffle posted:Am I going to kick myself if I decide to paint and redo the flooring of my new house before moving in? Do everything you can while you don’t have anything in there. I had pros do flooring and painting, the former would have been darn near impossible with our crap there. There’s an endless stream of stuff you can do before so I’d say at least knock those out and by then you’ll probably be jonesing to get in and out every other project on hold. If not you will by necessity once you discover everything else you want/need to fix 
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 22:17
|
|
|
My buddy who's a carpenter advised me to think on what needs to be changed about the house over a few years. Nothing like shelling out a lot of money for one thing, and then having to redo it later. We've been slowly making changes that make sense - replacing windows, insulating, getting a new sliding door towards the yard installed. Definitely paint the house, though. I spent my 3 weeks of summer vacation after we bought the house hanging glass tissue and painting while my wife was 8 months pregnant.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 23:07
|
|
|
My wife and I sanded and refinished our entire house (about 1000 square feet of wood flooring) before we moved in. It took about a week and a half of evenings and weekends to do everything. Some things we discovered: Drum sanders are dangerous in that if you let them idle in one spot for even a second, you will have a divot you cannot do anything about. But: every other sander is absolute garbage by comparison. We spent like $300 on big square sanding paper things for the big square vibrating sander and ten hours with that thing does the same work as twenty minutes with a drum sander. We tried a couple other rental sanders that were similarly slow and ineffective. Their only advantages were that it was much much harder to suddenly gently caress up and leave a big divot on the floor. But the pros all use drum sanders and if you can be diligent about lifting up after any pass or any time you need to pause for any reason, you can do it too and save a lot of work. Assume you'll spend five times as much time doing corners and trim as you spend just sanding the big open spaces. You'll do it by hand with a belt sander (for straight flat bits) or a little vibrating sander (for corners and trim) and you'll hate every second of it. Your arms go numb, you're on your knees the whole time, it sucks rear end. Find a closet with the hardwood in it, sand that, and then use that spot to test your colors and finish. You might decide that you didn't want a gloss finish, or that the "pecan" color is too orange, or the "walnut" too dark, etc. You cannot know exactly what your stain and finish will look like until you test it on your actual wood floor, which will not be identical to anything they have in the store for you to look at. Wear a respirator. Not just a dust mask. Especially for finishing, but even while sanding, a dust mask is likely inadequate. Yes it's sweaty and too tight on your face and it sucks but just do it. Invest in a shop vac. Clean constantly, don't just figure you'll wait to the end and then do it all. You need to deal with the dust before you start doing your stain and finish, and by that point you'll be exhausted and wanting to just wrap it all up, so you'll not do a thorough vacuuming job, and also the dust is going to land on top of doors and inside vents and just get everywhere. It's an easier job if you just plan half an hour of vacuuming after every day or evening or whatever period you work. You can save several thousand dollars by doing it yourself, and you can avoid the risk of a contractor deciding they can't do it this week, can they slot you in next month? But you may well regret not just spending the money for a pro, in the end. Think about this carefully. Sanding, applying a stain, and then applying a finish isn't rocket science, you can follow instructions and watch some videos and do just fine. But it's not fun work. Especially if there's a lot of trim, any stairs, etc. And extra-especially if you decide you're too scared of the drum sander.
|
|
#
?
Jul 8, 2020 23:33
|
|
|
Hello. I have purchased a house.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 03:10
|
|
|
DrPossum posted:Hello. I have purchased a house. F's in the chat
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 03:12
|
|
|
DrPossum posted:Hello. I have purchased a house. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 03:32
|
|
|
My only fear is that I'll end up in a scenario where I have to bring in professionals to finish the job, and burning through a few thousand dollars of unexpected costs sounds like a bad idea. From what I can see, laminate flooring looks pretty idiot proof and I'll only need to borrow a miter saw from friends. I just don't want to end up with bare concrete and an unfinished house with the move in date rapidly approaching. That thought terrifies me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 04:02
|
|
|
DrPossum posted:Hello. I have purchased a house. A moment of silence for any money you had. it belongs to the house now.
|
|
#
?
Jul 9, 2020 12:08
|
|
|
Fun adventures and discovery! Drain pipe for master bath was cracked at the flange and leaking all over. Installed a new drain assembly for the first time and hopefully THAT doesn't leak Sliding door frame was not actually screwed into anything (for years?!), so when it was locked and you pull the handle as if to open it, it pulls the whole frame out. 4 3" screws, de-caulked and re-caulked the interior frame Top fastener on the handrail to the basement missed the stud by about a stud's width so was just screwed into drywall. Not a great thing to discover. Moved the fastener, patched some drywall What will tomorrow bring!?
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 00:45
|
|
|
Does anyone here have an opinion on 36" single oven ranges vs 48" double oven bit the second oven is tiny? The 48" range I'm looking at has a second small regular/convection/ rotisserie oven on the side but the interior with is less than 8" and the main oven is only 23 or so inches on the inside. My current 40" has a bigger side oven and our plates don't fit in it. Is it worth it having a second tiny oven and 2 extra burners or should I just go with the extra wide single?
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 22:02
|
|
|
Get the big oven. Two tiny ovens is useless as hell.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 22:50
|
|
|
Something shifted ever so slightly and now my air tight soundproof casement window has a 1/2mm gap, just enough so that I can tell if the car outside is a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder etc; it's no longer deadening sound I'm really not up to the task this week of replacing the entire seal, especially if it shifts back after our three week long summer is over, is there something I can shim it with? Preferably black and not super sticky.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 23:40
|
|
|
We're looking at removing our oven, we only use this fancy toaster oven that will fit a standard 13" frozen pizza. We timed it, it's 18 minutes to preheat the big oven, and takes 16 minutes to cook a pizza; vs 3:45 to preheat the toaster oven, and in convection bake mode it cooks the pizza in 11:30. Total cook time for the pizza oven including preheat is less time than it takes for the big oven to preheat. I used the same oven thermometer in both to eliminate lovely thermostats. We had two ovens in our house growing up in Texas, I don't ever recall using the second oven even once. My high school girlfriends mom used their spare oven to store all their Tupperware, which predictably melted when someone preheated it once to make cookies without checking to see what was inside.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 23:43
|
|
|
Hadlock posted:We're looking at removing our oven, we only use this fancy toaster oven that will fit a standard 13" frozen pizza. What are you going to put in place of the oven? That's a definite "reduces your property value" type of project but if you don't use it and can convert the space to something that IS usable, then... why the hell not!
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 23:52
|
|
|
Would you recommend said fancy toaster oven, and can you link it? If I had 2 ovens, it'd probably only ever be used in the holidays. That's just about the only time I'd need/want it since the roast/turkey/ham always needs to be worked around.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 23:54
|
|
|
Yeah, that's the thing: Most people will look at a kitchen w/o an oven and say "wtf you have no oven." Never mind that they do take-out four days a week and microwave things / eat sandwiches the other days, THERE'S NO OVEN. I'd leave the oven in place and just not use it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 10, 2020 23:55
|
|
|
You can keep a lot of pots and pans in an empty oven. There's a dual oven here and we just store stuff in the lower oven. Maybe put a note over the controls not to turn it on if you put anything flammable in there.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 00:28
|
|
|
When I was a kid, my best friend's dad kept all their candy and like, cakes and stuff in their spare oven, because they'd get ant problems sometimes, but the ants couldn't get into the oven.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 00:46
|
|
|
I’m one of those odd folks who actually frequently entertains via old school dinner parties (at least before the pandemic), so a second oven would be a huge plus for me and no oven at all would be an even bigger minus. We hosted a couple Thanksgivings where we had to fire up the grill to use as a second oven. My parents have a six burner + 12” griddle Viking range that has a standard size oven plus a smaller one that’s rarely used, but when it is used, it is very much appreciated. They’ve had it for 25 years now and are very happy with it. I would for sure take a single standard/larger sized oven over two small ones. For our post-remodel kitchen we are looking at a 36” range (4 burners + 12” griddle, single oven), which should be sufficient for our needs 99% of the time. For the 1% of the time it’s not, we can fire up the grill or build a caja china or something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 01:17
|
|
|
Queen Victorian posted:I’m one of those odd folks who actually frequently entertains via old school dinner parties (at least before the pandemic), so a second oven would be a huge plus for me and no oven at all would be an even bigger minus. We hosted a couple Thanksgivings where we had to fire up the grill to use as a second oven. Same, but the grill is the THIRD oven (double wall ovens inside) and we've still had to go there. We even have two stoves...... If you entertain all of these things will be useful. When I re-do the kitchen the biggest problem I have will be corrected: I need two dishwashers also.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 01:48
|
|
|
Oh god yes. My next house will have 2 dishwashers. We have an oven\micro wall combo and it’s fine except 1 day a year. It only happens when I host thanksgiving but I can have my oven, grill, and smoker all going at the same time. OP can do what they want, just remember when it’s time to sell though Kitchens and owners bathrooms sell houses.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 01:53
|
|
|
My poor family has to have smoked food for most holidays because it is absolutely a second oven and lightens the load. Which reminds me, I do have a frozen turkey to smoke sometime. Maybe a little freezer burned though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 02:11
|
|
|
Pro-tip: deep frying your turkey is a game changer. Faster, less cleanup, delicious crispy skin. If you're not an idiot it's not anymore dangerous than doing it in your oven. Highly recommended.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 02:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 15:09 |
|
|
StormDrain posted:My poor family has to have smoked food for most holidays because it is absolutely a second oven and lightens the load. Smoked turkey is awesome, and I don't even have a proper smoker.  Sirotan posted:Pro-tip: deep frying your turkey is a game changer. Faster, less cleanup, delicious crispy skin. If you're not an idiot it's not anymore dangerous than doing it in your oven. Highly recommended. I agree it is very good, but it's no smoked turkey.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2020 02:24
|
|