Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
MikeC
Jul 19, 2004
BITCH ASS NARC

Arcsquad12 posted:

And once I'm at the point of replacing my mobo I might as well start rebuilding everything Ship of Theseus style. I'd Probably need a new tower as well.

I could do with some new RAM, I guess, that and an SSD could keep me going for a while yet.

What resolution is that new monitor going to be friend? Also are you desperate? No guarantees in life but as others have said, its not the best time to buy. If you can hold out till Sept-Dec, I would

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Arc Hammer
Mar 4, 2013

Got any deathsticks?

MikeC posted:

What resolution is that new monitor going to be friend? Also are you desperate? No guarantees in life but as others have said, its not the best time to buy. If you can hold out till Sept-Dec, I would



I'm prepping, so I'm not that desperate. My current monitor is 1080p with a 60hz refresh rate. I like 1080p but if there's a way I can get a better resolution with a higher refresh rate without compromising my performance I'm open to that.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

FuturePastNow posted:

What are some good options for a modular power supply in the 550-600W range? Pricing and availability seem to be all over the place.

Excellent gold-rated PSUs:
Corsair RM, RMx, TXM
Seasonic Focus GM & GX (the 550w GX is in stock now at newegg)
EVGA G3, G5, G[any number]
FSP Hydro (these are less known so you can sometimes find them in stock when everything else is gone)

Cheaper but good:
Corsair CX &CXM (the non-M is actually better than the M, but it's not modular)
EVGA GA & B5

erosion
Dec 21, 2002

It's true and I'm tired of pretending it isn't
Please help, I'm getting too old for this poo poo.

Country: US
Intent: Gaming, some light office stuff, occasional video rendering
Budget: Up to $1000. Priorities are reliability and value for money
Gaming: 1920x1080, 60hz, I'm used to sacrificing quality for performance. I hardly ever use anti-aliasing unless the game is ancient, responsiveness is everything and I sometimes turn off VSYNC

Current system:
Intel DG965RY (old!)
Core 2 Duo @ 2.66 GHz
6 GB RAM
AMD Radeon HD 7700 4 GB
Samsung SSD EVO 120 GB
Western Digital 250 GB mechanical HD

My rig is getting on in years and I can't play some of the cool new games. Assassin's Creed, Far Cry, even the newer Call of Duty series are beyond my reach. Bioshock Remastered chugs at native resolution with minimal settings.

Needed parts: Motherboard, CPU, RAM, PSU, Video, potentially a new case although I have some older ATX-ish cases lying around. I have two 24" Dell monitors that I got a great deal on but they only have DVI-D at best, and I understand the newer monitors can eliminate tearing with new technology. So I'm open to reasonably priced improvements. The plan is to give the old system to one of the kids. I have plenty of basic keyboards and mice lying around. Planning on re-using the mouse and keyboard, along with the speakers. I'll probably need another copy of Windows. My kid is in college and I thought they gave great deals on Windows, but maybe they don't anymore?

I've chosen Intel in the past because I lost three motherboards to the Great Capacitor Plague. But I'm open to AMD if the value for money is good. Historically I have preferred larger amounts of RAM and sufficient CPU. I'm not big on overclocking. Traditionally I've done smaller SSD for Windows and some games, and mechanical for additional storage.

Thank you very much!

Nowher
Nov 29, 2019

pack your bags
I've decided to finally bite the bullet and upgrade my ancient i5.

I'm keeping my 1660 Super and my H110 GT AIO cooler from my old build. Main purpose is 1080p gaming.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.89 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i GT 113 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler From previous build, also buying the AM4 adapter
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($99.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Best Buy) From previous build
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.95 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: Corsair CXM 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($94.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $891.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-14 01:32 EDT-0400

I'm ditching my old Corsair 750D case because it's way too big for my needs. My only concern is if it will fitting the H110 into the Meshify C be an issue? I'm not too attached if it's a problem.
Any other suggestions based on this build are welcome thanks!

Nowher fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Jul 14, 2020

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

Samsung drives are overpriced relative to equivalent performance drives from their competition. You can get a 1 TB sata drive for $10 more (and keep in mind that there is no perceivable to nvme over sata SSDs yet), or a decent 1 TB nvme drive for $25 more.

Games are getting big, 500 GB sucks now.


Extensive Vamping posted:

Please help, I'm getting too old for this poo poo.

Needed parts: Motherboard, CPU, RAM, PSU, Video, potentially a new case although I have some older ATX-ish cases lying around. I have two 24" Dell monitors that I got a great deal on but they only have DVI-D at best, and I understand the newer monitors can eliminate tearing with new technology.

Current video cards don't have DVI outputs anymore, but you can get passive adapters for DisplayPort->DVI and keep using the ones you have.

Here's a current $1k build: PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.89 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 34 CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($124.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5600 XT 6 GB PULSE Video Card ($293.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case ($80.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS GX-550, 550W 80+ Gold, Full-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1006.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-14 03:42 EDT-0400

Notes: The PSU is a manual edit, PCpartspicker isn't picking up on Newegg's stock of seasonic PSUs at the moment. If you look at the PCPP master list it'll show it at amazon for $160.

I picked an AMD video card based on your possible desire to use the new variable-refresh monitor tech. AMD's version of that (freesync) is on much cheaper monitors than nvidia's GSync. (For other people: yes there are nvidia-compatible freesync monitors but for a too old for this poo poo guy this is a useful simplification.)

Of course, if you were looking to buy a monitor in with the $1000 budget that will be a substantial change to the build.

Extensive Vamping posted:

I'll probably need another copy of Windows. My kid is in college and I thought they gave great deals on Windows, but maybe they don't anymore?
Go to SAmart for a cheap legit windows key. Or just use Win10 with no key -- it works fully with no lockout, and the only thing you can't do is change your desktop background and colors.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Quick question about my current PC!

I built it a little under a year ago, and has been running great. I was playing Apex Legends yesterday, when a game started and my PC went through all the shut down procedures(like it popped up the blue screen and said "THIS APP IS PREVENTING SHUT DOWN: Origin" but then shut down properly. A few friends said to check internal temps, so I did, but I realized... I don't really have a frame of reference for temp monitoring :psyduck:

Here's two of the sensor readings from when I started the PC up this morning to maybe 10 minutes after that:


I just had hwinfo log the readings which is why it's a janky Excel graph. Is it okay that my chipset is reaching 65C in about 15 minutes after startup, with no intensive processes running? Are these different sensors, or is it different software reading the same sensors?

I'm going in to lab in just a bit, but I plan on having this baby shut down all day, start it up this evening and monitor it for a good long while, especially while I play a game, so I should have a better data set then, but I'm just wondering if 65C for the chipset is... acceptable? The fans seem to be hanging around 900RPM, which I feel like might be low? I've never tweaked anything in the BIOS before, so everything is just out of the box settings.

Fake edit: Oh, that PC Part Picker list is missing the HDD I just put in, not sure if make/model matters but I can get it if requested. Thanks!

Bruteman
Apr 15, 2003

Can I ask ya somethin', Padre? When I was kickin' your ass back there... you get a little wood?

This is the first desktop I'll have had in a decade, so even after spending a few months going over these components, I'm a little lost on what is actually good for the price on some of these items. I understand given the upcoming CPU/GPUs and the general state of things that this is not an optimal time to do this but I can't really put it off much longer.

Since most of my available hardware is a decade old (been using laptops the last decade), I also need a new monitor and keyboard, as well as a wireless network adapter (my home office is on the opposite side of the house of the router).

What country are you in? U.S.
What are you using the system for? Heavy gaming; watching YouTube/Twitch during work hours.
What's your budget? The closer to $1k, the better - build below is currently ~$1,200 which is better than I thought I'd end up. I would prefer not making the build more expensive, but if there are quality concerns that could be addressed by upping it, I'd like to hear it.
If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? Shooting for 1080p 144hz, high/ultra settings - I know enough from research that the CPU/GPU combo I have below will give me what I want.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.89 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($75.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($64.98 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER 6 GB OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Best Buy)
Case: Phanteks Eclipse P400A ATX Mid Tower Case ($80.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($110.13 @ Amazon)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($51.99 @ Amazon)
Monitor: AOC C24G1 24.0" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor ($210.00 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G610 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($89.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $1220.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-07-14 09:18 EDT-0400

Some other info:

Noise is not a factor. The PC will be in my home office, which is occupied by only me 99 percent of the time, I game with headphones on and I have a fan running in the background nine months out of the year. I've heard that the stock Ryzen cooler is fine if you're not overclocking. I also am not sure how many case fans I need - I assumed all of the stock stuff here was ok if I'm not overclocking or worried about noise.

Speaking of which, I'm not sure what case I actually need - I saw the one I picked got good reviews and I didn't get any warnings on the parts picker site. Is the one I picked good for the price/parts I'm installing?

SSD - I know a lot of people suggest going to 1TB, but my current PC has a 500gb SSD and I've had no issues with space (I have a 1TB hard drive but I'm hoping to move that over or connect externally if needed) - if there's a comparable quality/higher capacity drive for lower, I'd love to hear about it, but it's not a real concern.

The wireless adapter is just sort of a random pick after googling - I don't know if there is a better one for the price, or if I should consider a motherboard with Wifi since the Tomahawk here doesn't have it.

Power supply - I know this is a problem area right now with supplies, is there a better brand/model I should be spending more on?

Monitor/keyboard - I know these are typically not in the purview of this thread, but if there are better options (1080p 144hz for the monitor; I'd like the keyboard to be wired and not an Xmas tree) and the things I picked are trash, I'd love to hear about it.

Thanks!

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World
This may be common knowledge, but I've been reading up on B550 boards and they can be kind of weird with how they handle ports/slots/bandwidth if you try to use more than the dedicated PCIe 4.0 16x slot and PCIe 4.0 4x M2 SSD slot. Basically none of them can actually use all of their onboard SATA ports, M.2 ports and PCIe slots at full bandwidth at once.

For instance, the MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk can handle the following just fine:

1 PCIe 4.0 16x (video card) - All B550 boards have this locked down because it goes directly to the CPU, not the chipset
1 PCIe 4.0 4x (M.2 SSD) - See above
1 PCIe 3.0 4x (M.2 SSD)
1 PCIe 3.0 1x card (for whatever)
SATA ports

Using both 1x slots throttles the second M.2 from 4x to 2x. Using the second 16x slot (which only runs at 4x speed anyway) disables the second M.2 slot entirely.

None of this is obvious unless your read the fine print of the specs.

But this isn't MSI being dicks! All B550 boards have to do some kind of juggling like this, and none of them are consistent bout it. For instance, Asrock Steel Legend and Extreme4 always run the second M.2 slot at only 2x instead of 4x and disable 3 SATA ports if you use it, but don't seem to gently caress with the PCIe slots, which for most people is probably stupider. The B550 Aorus Pro kills the second 16x slot (which is only 4x actually) to run the second M2 at 4x like the Tomahawk, and has a third 16x slot (really 2x!) that steals SATA ports if you use it. Unlike the Tomahawk it looks like it can run both 1x slots without impacting anything... but it has no front panel USB type C header.

This isn't totally new, for instance older boards often disable SATA ports if you install an M2 SSD, the difference with B550 is what gets shuffle around varies more from board to board.

tl,dr read the fine print on B550 specs before buying one.

sean10mm fucked around with this message at 14:58 on Jul 14, 2020

Bofast
Feb 21, 2011

Grimey Drawer

sean10mm posted:

This may be common knowledge, but I've been reading up on B550 boards and they can be kind of weird with how they handle ports/slots/bandwidth if you try to use more than the dedicated PCIe 4.0 16x slot and PCIe 4.0 4x M2 SSD slot. Basically none of them can actually use all of their onboard SATA ports, M.2 ports and PCIe slots at full bandwidth at once.

For instance, the MSI MAG B550 Tomahawk can handle the following just fine:

1 PCIe 4.0 16x (video card) - All B550 boards have this locked down because it goes directly to the CPU, not the chipset
1 PCIe 4.0 4x (M.2 SSD) - See above
1 PCIe 3.0 4x (M.2 SSD)
1 PCIe 3.0 1x card (for whatever)
SATA ports

Using both 1x slots throttles the second M.2 from 4x to 2x. Using the second 16x slot (which only runs at 4x speed anyway) disables the second M.2 slot entirely.

None of this is obvious unless your read the fine print of the specs.

But this isn't MSI being dicks! All B550 boards have to do some kind of juggling like this, and none of them are consistent bout it. For instance, Asrock Steel Legend and Extreme4 always run the second M.2 slot at only 2x instead of 4x and disable 3 SATA ports if you use it, but don't seem to gently caress with the PCIe slots, which for most people is probably stupider. The B550 Aorus Pro kills the second 16x slot (which is only 4x actually) to run the second M2 at 4x like the Tomahawk, and has a third 16x slot (really 2x!) that steals SATA ports if you use it. Unlike the Tomahawk it looks like it can run both 1x slots without impacting anything... but it has no front panel USB type C header.

This isn't totally new, for instance older boards often disable SATA ports if you install an M2 SSD, the difference with B550 is what gets shuffle around varies more from board to board.

tl,dr read the fine print on B550 specs before buying one.

My MSI B450M Mortar Max also works much like this. One of the M.2 slots disables a couple of SATA ports if you use it with a 4x M.2 drive, as I recall, because they share the same PCIe lanes to the CPU. I have also known B350 motherboards to do the same.

Edit: the manual usually mentions it, but it can be nearly impossible to find anything about it on the product pages, which sucks.

Molten Llama
Sep 20, 2006
For what it's worth, I haven't had recent difficulty finding those details for current boards from the usual suspects (Asus/Gigabyte/MSI), but it is usually on the "details" or "specifications" tab/section of the product page rather than the main marketing/features view. And for some brands (lookin' at you, MSI), it's not particularly clear "Specs" is actually a button that would do something, so it's easy to miss.

Some product pages are starting to include it in the main content too, but something seems to be getting lost in the English translation because it often makes very little sense as described there.

Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jul 14, 2020

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World
I kind of like the look of the Asus ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming out of all the B550 boards I've looked at so far. It seems to have the best work-arounds/compromises for the B550 limitations and gives you Intel 2.5g ethernet instead of Realtek, plus bios flashback. It's running on the high side of what makes sense for a B550 IMO at like $189, but that's not egregiously stupid or anything.

1) The 2nd M.2 slot is always 3.0 4x. If you use it, it just deactivates 2 SATA ports out of 6. If 2x M.2 SSD and 4x SATA devices or 1x M.2 SSD and 6x SATA devices doesn't cut it for you, you're doing something pretty unusual storage-wise.
2) The PCIe 3.0 slots (1 "16x" @ 4x speed and 3 1x) all share 4 lanes total and don't "steal" from anything else but each other. If you can't get by with the PCIe 4.0 16x for your video card and three 1x expansion slots then, again, you're doing something pretty odd.

So it's effectively (no gimping of anything) giving you:

1 PCIe 4.0 16x
3 PCIe 1x or 1 PCIe "16x" slot @ 4x speed
1 M.2 SSD @ 4.0 4x
1 M.2 SSD @ 3.0 4x & 4 SATA *or* 6 SATA
0 USB-C header

Whereas the MAG B550 Tomahawk gives you:

1 PCIe 4.0 16x
1 PCIe 1x
1 M.2 SSD @ 4.0 4x
1 M.2 SSD @ 3.0 4x & 6 SATA
1 USB-C header

Which leads me to a stupid question: what do you even use USB-C *for* on a desktop?

orcane
Jun 13, 2012

Fun Shoe
USB 3.2 2x2 devices :v:

Otherwise, convenience if you really don't have A-to-C cables for your phone / external HDD / etc.

Personally I have zero "C only" devices and can't see that changing for ages, ymmv.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

Johnny Truant posted:

Quick question about my current PC!

I built it a little under a year ago, and has been running great. I was playing Apex Legends yesterday, when a game started and my PC went through all the shut down procedures(like it popped up the blue screen and said "THIS APP IS PREVENTING SHUT DOWN: Origin" but then shut down properly. A few friends said to check internal temps, so I did, but I realized... I don't really have a frame of reference for temp monitoring :psyduck:

Based on this behavior, I don't think anything is wrong -- that all indicated your OS did a normal shutdown. That's what happens when you tell it to shut down and some program takes more than 15 seconds to exit (probably because all these game launchers are communicating with the mothership).

I think the power button somehow got pressed, or maybe your keyboard has a power-off function with some key combo? Anyways, go into windows settings -> power & sleep -> additional power settings -> choose what the power buttons do, and set the power button to "do nothing".

Temperatures are fine anyways -- the X570 chipset is going to be warmer than most because it's actually a re-purposed CPU IO die, and so made with a high power process rather than the low-power one a normal chipset would use.

Bruteman posted:

Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($124.99 @ Best Buy)

The wireless adapter is just sort of a random pick after googling - I don't know if there is a better one for the price, or if I should consider a motherboard with Wifi since the Tomahawk here doesn't have it.

Power supply - I know this is a problem area right now with supplies, is there a better brand/model I should be spending more on?

Mobo & wireless: If you wanted to save some bucks, you could get the Gigabyte B450 Aorus Pro Wifi which has built-in AC wifi (with an intel chip as well). Just $5 more than the Tomahawk alone. The tomahawk is slightly better at supplying power for high-core CPUs, but if you aren't planning to upgrade to a $500 CPU a year from now that's not a factor.

A separate wifi card is also a fine decision if you might want to swap it out in the future.


Power supply: Seasonic Focus Gold is great, 750W is more than you need but I guess you know that and were just picking what PCPP showed you. Newegg has 550W Focus Golds in stock for $100, PCPP isn't picking up on it.


sean10mm posted:

Which leads me to a stupid question: what do you even use USB-C *for* on a desktop?

A hypothetical future where I never have to flip a USB stick around 3 times in a row trying to plug it in.

Leal
Oct 2, 2009

Klyith posted:

A hypothetical future where I never have to flip a USB stick around 3 times in a row trying to plug it in.

Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay

sean10mm posted:

Which leads me to a stupid question: what do you even use USB-C *for* on a desktop?
I charge my pixel 3 off it, if I upgrade my old rear end case's front header to USB-C I can charge it one foot closer!

USB-C can also be used for VR and HDMI/video stuff and for monitors, but I don't think that would work coming straight off your Mobo.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World
I don't know if this is of interest to anybody, but for shits & giggles I decided to compare some B550 boards at similar price points to document the B550 fuckery & some basic features. Threw in a lower end X570 in for reference too.

Observations:

Gigabyte Aorus Pro and Asus ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming made the most sense IMO in how they handle the B550 limitations. So you lose a couple SATA ports or a spare 16x slot that only runs at 4x speed anyway, so what.

The $10 markup on the Asus basically gets you Intel 2.5g LAN, while everything at this price point is pretty much Realtek.

I don't get why the hell Gigabyte stuck THREE PCIe 16x slots on the thing but I guess there's a niche for having two big slots that only run at 4x and 2x (!) speed? :confuoot:

The Steel Legend only runs the second M.2 slot at 2x instead of 4x no matter what you do, which seems dumb as hell on a board that otherwise looks fine.

(Tomahawk and Steel Legend have front panel USB-C headers incidentally.)

Klyith posted:

A hypothetical future where I never have to flip a USB stick around 3 times in a row trying to plug it in.

I can't argue with that. :hmmyes:

Only registered members can see post attachments!

threeagainstfour
Jun 27, 2005


Cross posting from the AMD thread in case this is the right spot to ask this question

Just completed this build last night. I'm a convert over to AMD after having spent the better part of two decades as an Intel user. I had a question or two around idle temps for the CPU.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.89 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($75.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($0.00 - brought over from last build)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($137.84)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB VENTUS OC Video Card ($560.00)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($127.24)

My typical idle temperature according to AMD Ryzen Master is around 40-50c. This seems a little on the high side given the cooler and case I am using. My old CPU, an i5 6500 would idle around the mid thirties with the stock cooler. Should I be concerned and looking to lower those temps, or are these the kind of idle temps I can expect with the Ryzen 5 3600?

For more context, when playing COD Modern Warfare at 1440p 120hz with close to maxed out settings it looked like the CPU never went above 65c. So it looks to be performing decently there.

I also haven't added any additional fans to the cooler or case, but I'm willing to do that if these temps are high and I should be trying to bring them down.

threeagainstfour fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Jul 14, 2020

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004
BITCH ASS NARC

threeagainstfour posted:

I also haven't added any additional fans to the cooler or case, but I'm willing to do that if these temps are high and I should be trying to bring them down.

You are fine. My 3600X is at around 45C web browsing. Maxing out at 65C under a gaming workload is fantastic. If it really bugs you, you can try a more aggressive fan curve.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World

threeagainstfour posted:

Cross posting from the AMD thread in case this is the right spot to ask this question

Just completed this build last night. I'm a convert over to AMD after having spent the better part of two decades as an Intel user. I had a question or two around idle temps for the CPU.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($171.89 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler ($35.99 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($75.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($0.00 - brought over from last build)
Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($137.84)
Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB VENTUS OC Video Card ($560.00)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.99 @ Walmart)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($127.24)

My typical idle temperature according to AMD Ryzen Master is around 40-50c. This seems a little on the high side given the cooler and case I am using. My old CPU, an i5 6500 would idle around the mid thirties with the stock cooler. Should I be concerned and looking to lower those temps, or are these the kind of idle temps I can expect with the Ryzen 5 3600?

For more context, when playing COD Modern Warfare at 1440p 120hz with close to maxed out settings it looked like the CPU never went above 65c. So it looks to be performing decently there.

I also haven't added any additional fans to the cooler or case, but I'm willing to do that if these temps are high and I should be trying to bring them down.

Upgrading the front intake on that case to 2x140 instead of 1x120 in particular really helps, but 65C in gaming is real good.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3061-fractal-meshify-c-review-vs-define-c

e: I think I'm literally going to copy the alternate cooling they used in that test whenever I get around to my own build, except I'm going to move the bottom front fan lower so it blows on the GPU better.

sean10mm fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jul 14, 2020

Party Boat
Nov 1, 2007

where did that other dog come from

who is he


Iirc the answer just after launch was that the precision boost on the Ryzens was so responsive that the act of querying core temp was enough to cause one of them to spike as it rushed to answer the query ASAP, although I was pretty sure the official AMD toolset had some magic to prevent that.

Either way mid 40s at idle is nothing to worry about.

Mu Zeta
Oct 17, 2002

Me crush ass to dust

Change the thread title to "Samsung SSDs are overpriced"

threeagainstfour
Jun 27, 2005


Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated!

Glad to hear the temps I'm running are good. I'll definitely look into upgrading the intake fans that came with the case and hopefully see a few degrees of improvement.

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004
BITCH ASS NARC

Party Boat posted:

Iirc the answer just after launch was that the precision boost on the Ryzens was so responsive that the act of querying core temp was enough to cause one of them to spike as it rushed to answer the query ASAP, although I was pretty sure the official AMD toolset had some magic to prevent that.

Either way mid 40s at idle is nothing to worry about.

This is exactly it. Random background tasks will have the cores spike to 4.3 GHz along with the necessary voltages to get it up there for the .01 seconds required. And this happens constantly.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World

Mu Zeta posted:

Change the thread title to "Samsung SSDs are overpriced"

They're charging WD Black SN750 M.2 prices for generic SATA drives :signings:

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004
BITCH ASS NARC
I am finally updating my build guide.....and the 3300X is more expensive than the 3600 on PC partpicker....sigh

TangoFox posted:

Hey Goons,

This stupid Goon can't find the old updated list of suggested builds. I believe it used to be on post 3 of this thread. Can anyone point me to it? Looking for a $3k or less build for gaming.


It is linked in the OP. Updating right now. Hopefully done before I have to raid. If not will be done shortly after.

MikeC fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jul 14, 2020

TangoFox
Jan 29, 2016
Hey Goons,

This stupid Goon can't find the old updated list of suggested builds. I believe it used to be on post 3 of this thread. Can anyone point me to it? Looking for a $3k or less build for gaming.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World

TangoFox posted:

Hey Goons,

This stupid Goon can't find the old updated list of suggested builds. I believe it used to be on post 3 of this thread. Can anyone point me to it? Looking for a $3k or less build for gaming.

$3k will let you build a goddamn starship lmao

But MikeC is literally the guy who wrote them, and he posted right above you about how he's rewriting them! :v:

TangoFox
Jan 29, 2016

sean10mm posted:

$3k will let you build a goddamn starship lmao

But MikeC is literally the guy who wrote them, and he posted right above you about how he's rewriting them! :v:

Well I'll be hosed. Thanks MikeC!

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Klyith posted:

Based on this behavior, I don't think anything is wrong -- that all indicated your OS did a normal shutdown. That's what happens when you tell it to shut down and some program takes more than 15 seconds to exit (probably because all these game launchers are communicating with the mothership).

I think the power button somehow got pressed, or maybe your keyboard has a power-off function with some key combo? Anyways, go into windows settings -> power & sleep -> additional power settings -> choose what the power buttons do, and set the power button to "do nothing".

Thanks for the help!

I was fiddling with my preamp, which is on top of the case, so if anything I would have pressed the power button. If I turn the power button to do nothing, it'll still allow me to press and hold it to force it to turn off, correct?

Nowher
Nov 29, 2019

pack your bags

Klyith posted:

Samsung drives are overpriced relative to equivalent performance drives from their competition. You can get a 1 TB sata drive for $10 more (and keep in mind that there is no perceivable to nvme over sata SSDs yet), or a decent 1 TB nvme drive for $25 more.

Games are getting big, 500 GB sucks now.


I have decided to go with the 1TB you linked to.

Thanks to all involved with this thread and the no nonsense advice. The amount of terrible information out there (reddit) is bewildering.

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004
BITCH ASS NARC
https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=3903626&pagenumber=3&perpage=40#post499984447

I updated it. Finding reasonable part prices was kind of annoying but apparently they do exist. Check for errors, I was in a rush, I have to raid now.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



TangoFox posted:

Hey Goons,

This stupid Goon can't find the old updated list of suggested builds. I believe it used to be on post 3 of this thread. Can anyone point me to it? Looking for a $3k or less build for gaming.

3k will buy you a premade that will do anything that anything anyone would recommend from here would do, and on the plus side it would come with a support contract.

Also seeing that Team Green has ended production of all Turing GPUs in order to dry up the market for them in advance of the 3000 series GPUs (Ampere). Prices of current gen GTX and RTX cards are likely going to go up up up from now until September, as supplies of them disappear from store shelves as early as the end of this month possibly. Cryptocurrency miners are extremely unlikely to help GPU prices between now and September as well, since idiots are flocking back to cryptocurrency.

Nvidia doesn't want to repeat what happened with the 2080 launch where nobody bought them because the 1080 etc was choking store shelves and retailers were spiking the prices of the RTX cards in order to move 1080s off their inventory. This will probably gently caress up people wanting to build a PC before September though.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jul 15, 2020

Kraftwerk
Aug 13, 2011
i do not have 10,000 bircoins, please stop asking

I'm ready for the 3080Ti I just hope it costs below 1800 CAD.

sean10mm
Jun 29, 2005

It's a Mad, Mad, Mad, MAD-2R World

MikeC posted:

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=1&threadid=3903626&pagenumber=3&perpage=40#post499984447

I updated it. Finding reasonable part prices was kind of annoying but apparently they do exist. Check for errors, I was in a rush, I have to raid now.

The budget 1080p write-up says "Storage capacity has been upgraded to a 1 TB SSD" in one place and "The storage listed is a 500 GB SATA SSD" in another, and the part listed is a 500 GB. :haw:

MikeC
Jul 19, 2004
BITCH ASS NARC
lol fixed

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

orange juche posted:

Also seeing that Team Green has ended production of all Turing GPUs in order to dry up the market for them in advance of the 3000 series GPUs (Ampere). Prices of current gen GTX and RTX cards are likely going to go up up up from now until September, as supplies of them disappear from store shelves as early as the end of this month possibly.

Nvidia doesn't want to repeat what happened with the 2080 launch where nobody bought them because the 1080 etc was choking store shelves and retailers were spiking the prices of the RTX cards in order to move 1080s off their inventory. This will probably gently caress up people wanting to build a PC before September though.

Uh, I really don't think that's gonna happen (prices going up). Even if nvidia has ended production of chips, they will have a stock of chips not yet attached to boards, and the board partners will have their whole working inventory to go through. PC parts companies are on top of tracking & predicting demand, and tail off production of Thing 1 when Thing 2 is about to come out. They're normally quite good at it.

The circumstances of the 10x0 to 20x0 transition, with tons of unsold 1080s clogging up shelves and competing with more expensive 20x0 cards, were because the bitcoin bubble collapsed a few months ahead of the launch. Nvidia had overproduced, all the partners had overbought chips to supply miners, they all got burned by bitcoin idiocy.

E2M2
Mar 2, 2007

Ain't No Thang.
If I'm trying to build an ultra budget AM4 office computer, what motherboard should I be trying to search for used? Thinking something like a 2000GE or something? Or maybe a used 1600, but there are like hundreds of motherboards.

orange juche
Mar 14, 2012



Klyith posted:

Uh, I really don't think that's gonna happen (prices going up). Even if nvidia has ended production of chips, they will have a stock of chips not yet attached to boards, and the board partners will have their whole working inventory to go through. PC parts companies are on top of tracking & predicting demand, and tail off production of Thing 1 when Thing 2 is about to come out. They're normally quite good at it.

The circumstances of the 10x0 to 20x0 transition, with tons of unsold 1080s clogging up shelves and competing with more expensive 20x0 cards, were because the bitcoin bubble collapsed a few months ahead of the launch. Nvidia had overproduced, all the partners had overbought chips to supply miners, they all got burned by bitcoin idiocy.

Well yeah, but apparently crypto dorks are putting a bump in crap again by snapping up video cards that were supposed to tide over the supply until September, as apparently crypto mining with GPUs is a thing again somehow.

Nvidia apparently has told their partners to begin to price up their cards in order to stretch the supply by making GPU mining unprofitable, because otherwise miners would buy them all and leave everyone with nothing.

Source for both the halt on production, and the mining thing is a Chinese language website IThome.

orange juche fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jul 15, 2020

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Deketh
Feb 26, 2006
That's a nice fucking fish
I don't really know my stuff here but my build is about 5 years old at this point, I use it for gaming (struggled to get settings I was happy with for RDR2 but it ran "fine") and work (autocad, 3DS max, revit - runs fine mostly but rendering is slow. Not super important as I have a work machine too). I'm itching for an upgrade as it's been so long now but I can't afford a whole build and I don't know if these specs are so bad anyway, they're just old. I guess I just want to have a system that will reliably serve me for good quality AAA gaming for another 5 years, assuming the other original components don't fail. Does it seem sensible to just upgrade the video card, and if so would https://www.scan.co.uk/products/evga-geforce-rtx-2060-ko-gaming-6gb-gddr6-ray-tracing-graphics-card-1920-core-1365mhz-gpu-1680mhz-bo this be a good choice? I'm being swayed by the free Death Stranding with the 20 cards although reading the last few posts there is a price issue?
I am in the UK and budget is around about £300 I suppose but could go up if really necessary.

This is my current 5 year old system

CPU: Intel Core i7 6700K s1151 4.0G
Motherboard: Asus Z170M-PLUS Intel Mobo
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX Black 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 PC4-19200 2400MHz Dual Channel Kit (Skylake)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 GAMING TWIN FROZR V OC 4GB GDDR5
Power Supply: EVGA Supernova GS 550W "80 Plus Gold" Modular Power Supply
Monitor: ViewSonic VX3211-2K-MHD 32 Inch IPS WQHD

Thanks!

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5