|
Fair enough! Just have to check. One thing Id think about is what all youre really hauling and how much space you need. If its really a lot of landscaping stuff thatd push me a lot more towards a pickup vs anything else. Basically if youre carrying stuff that wont fit in a van (trees) or youre getting dumped in to the bed / need to hose out (mulch, dirt, whatever). I suppose same thing if its a bunch of readymix bags or whatever for construction. If youre not carrying huge stuff that definitely needs a pickup, like youre getting by OK with the civic but could use more space, an SUV or van will probably wind up being cheaper and better. A couple other options to consider: depending on what youre hauling and if you have space to store one, a cheap utility trailer can be amazingly handy. Or you could think about a beater work vehiclefor $30k you could get a well used cargo van and another hot hatch. edit: personally Id love to have a smaller pickup, probably a ranger or Tacoma, but every time I price things out it just feels really extravagant. A cargo van would be more useful for me and realistically my $8000 200k mile GX470 is a great car that has given me no issues. powderific fucked around with this message at 05:25 on Jul 18, 2020 |
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 05:17
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 04:02 |
|
|
please do not tempt me
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 05:22
|
|
|
Im assuming youre referring to hot hatch plus beater utility vehicle and if you have space its no worse a choice than a nice pickup. Follow your dreams!
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 05:28
|
|
|
Gunshow Poophole posted:I'm going to dial the shitpost quotient all the way back and just say that I appreciate your concern, but we are in great shape. I'm here to ask about vehicles not money. Youll get the answers you are looking for here, but your silly if you think people arent going to press you on your finances with your situation in a finance thread. Vans are awesome but you cant get as many nice features. I have an E150 for a recreation vehicle but I wouldnt ever want to daily one. Being 2/3 the price of a truck was a big selling point and we use the internal cargo space more than we would a truck bed. I take it off paved roads monthly to BLM lands to shoot and various camping road trips. Depending on the jobs, you might prefer an suv and a flat bed trailer when you need the space.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 05:30
|
|
|
Hello this thread! I recently got my 2010 Jetta written off, have just started new car shopping and feel fairly overwhelmed by the whole process, so I figured I'd ask for suggestions. Based on the little form in the OP: Proposed Budget: < 25,000 CAD (for I live in Canada) New or Used: Probably used. My last car was new, I feel like I certainly overpaid for it, and am not in a race to do that again. The idea of relatively new appeals to me, but even the clearance previous years models look about the same price as the 1 year useds. Body Style: 4 door sedan. How will you be using the car?: Mostly a commuter car in the city, I drive to the mountains hours away every couple weekends or so. I had my last car for a decade, hoping to break that record again. What aspects are most important to you? Fuel efficiency obviously important. Cost of ownership is certainly a factor in my head, my old car being a VW was of course reasonably pricey to maintain; I probably should have just been more diligent taking it to a local shop rather than a dealership all the time. The other thing I'm having a tough time wrapping my head around is driver assistance packages, these seem cool, but I don't know how often I'd actually use it. Tesla autopilot is cool and all but I'm sure as poo poo not buying a Tesla. Opinions here are appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 06:06
|
|
Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
|
Thanks again all - incredibly happy with the ES Hybrid I picked up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 07:48
|
|
|
powderific posted:A couple other options to consider: depending on what youre hauling and if you have space to store one, a cheap utility trailer can be amazingly handy. I've owned pickups for most of my adult life up until about 6 years ago. I'm so over them. I do a lot of landscape stuff so I went for a 6x10 foot dump trailer.  Narrow enough that you don't need dedicated tow mirrors, big enough to throw three yards of mulch in it. Tarp built in. Ramps built in for moving mowers/equipment. It does basically everything I need it to.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 13:29
|
|
|
I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a CPO 2018 Tiguan SEL w/ 4Motion for ~31K out the door. Am I crazy here? I really like the Tiguan and the SEL. I wanted the SEL trim because I wasn't planning on buy another car for at least 10 years. My last car was a 2008 GTI for roughly the same price with no features at all. According to KBB it seems to be a good price. But it just seems expensive to me? Is the 31K a good price?
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 15:30
|
|
|
My wife bought a new CX-5 grand touring for 30k, so I'm gonna go with "no, that's not a great deal".
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 15:35
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:I'm thinking about pulling the trigger on a CPO 2018 Tiguan SEL w/ 4Motion for ~31K out the door. Am I crazy here? I really like the Tiguan and the SEL. I wanted the SEL trim because I wasn't planning on buy another car for at least 10 years. My last car was a 2008 GTI for roughly the same price with no features at all. According to KBB it seems to be a good price. But it just seems expensive to me? Is the 31K a good price? You could buy a brand new one for very close to that price. edit: I did a very quick search on CarGurus for 2020s and the dealers are between 31-33k for a Tiguan SEL 4motion. This is Atlanta and your area may be different. TheWevel fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jul 18, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 16:01
|
|
|
If pickup truck is your only transport, then your criteria and priorities change. If you use it solely for work, then you're looking to maximize return on investment, because truck essentially is just a tool that you need to make money with. And at this point, you're looking for the least amount of frills on top of your basic truck platform. You should be looking at 150/1500 cargo vans as well. 4x4 is a dumb poo poo gimmick that your only need if driving on places other than roads. On asphalt, tires make or break your traction capabilities. Ask me about pulling Jeeps out of ditches with my 2wd open differential Silverado. Because studded nokian hakapelitas on all 4 corners. However, if you drive it places other than work, and carry passengers, especially kids, then your scope changes drastically. You need actual rear doors, and you probably want to look at higher trim levels because of better safety equipment like adaptive cruise and such. Ideally, a tradesman has a work vehicle, which is a beat up basic truck and then a weekend car, which is a comfortable people carrier. I run a construction outfit and dispense the above advise bi-monthly. Because eventually, that's where a professional tradesman will end up.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2020 17:55
|
|
|
TLDR: is there a one-stop resource to learn about buying a car? *The OP is from 2009... still relevant? Ex/
Love my car but it's beat to heck. KBB says it's worth like ~$900 and it needs like $3.2k in repairs... The thread about car resources in AI was a good start. Looking for:
In an ideal world I'd love something like a 2020 All Wheel Drive Prius? I'm happy with a used car but I'm paranoid of lemons!!! JIZZ DENOUEMENT fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jul 21, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 04:05
|
|
|
They make a Rav4 hybrid You probably don't need AWD though. Tells us why you need AWD.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 06:14
|
|
|
I'm exploring the option of getting a new car as Covid hasn't really affected my income, and may provide an opportunity to move up a couple vehicle segments. At the moment I have a Fiesta ST that I owe about $5k on and I will be perfectly happy with it if I decide not to get a new car. My question is this. What do you think is the absolute minimum I could conceivably pay for a Kia Stinger GT1 or GT2? Anything from 2018 CPO to new. It seems like between a recession, nobody wanting to pay $50k for something with a Kia badge, and stock sitting on dealer lots there's a deal to be swung here. Somewhere else I was hearing about people using the crazy lease offers they're throwing out, then immediately paying it off or something like that but when it comes to complicated car haggling my eyes glaze over and I need to take a nap. Like I said, I'm not really in any hurry to get a new car, but if the confluence of events means I can get a powerful luxury grand tourer for Camry money, I just might jump at it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2020 08:58
|
|
|
Is there a term for used cars that were initially in a lease? That seems good for looking at used cars right? Because then they had scheduled maintenance?
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 01:30
|
|
|
https://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/d/hicksville-kia-rio-2005/7163471229.html My car just blew up and is on the path to totalling itself with repairs. I don't have a lot of money right now, am I deranged to think something like this might.be a good idea? Outside of reliability and safety I really don't care, just I'm not at all familiar with Kias od this vintage and don't know if they're at all trustworthy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 01:38
|
|
|
TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Is there a term for used cars that were initially in a lease? Yes, used cars. All of the stuff about used car research (prepurchase inspection, etc) applies to leases. Depending on dealership they may be more likely to be sold as certified pre owned but thats so dependent on the dealership that it doesnt even mean anything. Manufacturer backed CPOs are generally more expensive because they have a better (or some kind of) warranty.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 02:27
|
|
|
DildenAnders posted:https://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/d/hicksville-kia-rio-2005/7163471229.html It's going to need a timing belt, which will cost as much as the price of the car. If it's already been changed, jump on it. The frame is probably crumbling, but the interior looks nice and it's only $1350, so if it falls apart in a couple years you're not out a lot. If it hasn't had the timing belt replaced (due at 100,000 miles), I'd pass on it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 03:02
|
|
|
PittTheElder posted:Hello this thread! I recently got my 2010 Jetta written off, have just started new car shopping and feel fairly overwhelmed by the whole process, so I figured I'd ask for suggestions. Based on the little form in the OP: I dont know what the used market is like in the frozen north, but you should be able to find a Prius in that range. Its the go to thread suggestion for I need a go-box, I just dont want it to break and I dont want it to cost a hojillion dollars if something breaks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 03:07
|
|
|
Budget new front tires in the not too far distant future. It's not particularly safe but it's not a deathtrap. Price for anything running is a grand these days, give or take. Deteriorata's advice on timing belt is good. Also check to see if the clutch is in good condition or beginning to slip. I don't trust cars with fake BBS covers that are spray painted black.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 03:09
|
|
|
Gangringo posted:I'm exploring the option of getting a new car as Covid hasn't really affected my income, and may provide an opportunity to move up a couple vehicle segments. At the moment I have a Fiesta ST that I owe about $5k on and I will be perfectly happy with it if I decide not to get a new car. I leased a GT2 AWD for 36 months with 12k/year allowance at a purchase price of 42k (so like 10k off MSRP). Not sure what the residual is off the top of my head but the payments are like 560/month. I had to negotiate a lot to get that though. Paying off a lease immediately is stupid because you have to pay the financing charge for the full lease terms anyways and they're usually horrible (like 6%+). It's also getting a mid cycle refresh soon, just FYI. Edit: wait until like September/October and buy Doug Demuro's barely used one for cheap when he auctions it off. KillHour fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Jul 22, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 04:43
|
|
|
Were planning to road trip up to Denver from LA and make it kinda camping trip. Current vehicle is a 2016 Miata that is about to be off lease and I was thinking about upsizing somewhat. Fiance wants a minivan with an auto transmission. I kinda want something I can sleep in if I have to get something big. Like a westfalia but they seem to be expensive as hell Seems like a lot of options out there and Ive only driven Miatas for the last 9 years or so. In four years I only put 12000 miles on my car. Where should I start? A MIRACLE fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Jul 22, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 15:48
|
|
|
are you buying this vehicle or merely road tripping? please fill out the template as your thoughts do not really make sense edit: you do not want a westfalia, i don't need the template to tell you that
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 15:52
|
|
|
TheWevel posted:Yes, used cars. All of the stuff about used car research (prepurchase inspection, etc) applies to leases. Ok so it sounds like theres no universal and worthwhile term for it. Ill just have to ask the dealer when Im looking at cars. Can they lie about it? I hate asking dealers questions because they are always lying snakes!!!
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 16:42
|
|
|
TURGID TOMFOOLERY posted:Ok so it sounds like theres no universal and worthwhile term for it. Ill just have to ask the dealer when Im looking at cars. The CarFax report will list all that if you can get one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 16:48
|
|
|
Decent rule of thumb is that if it's on the same brand dealer's lot, is two or three years old, and has sub-36k miles it's probably a lease turn in. I'm not sure why you're fixated on lease turn ins, though. Leased cars do not get more scheduled maintenance than owned cars, if anything I would hazard that people who lease cars are more cavalier about scheduled maintenance since they do not have to deal with the consequences. If you are talking about a full service lease like is more common for company cars in the EU, that's a different story, but those are extremely uncommon in the US.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 16:56
|
|
|
I've heard the reason BMW is covering 100% of maintenance on leased cars for precisely that reason. People drove 3 years without a single oil change because it cost something like $250 to do so
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 22:27
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:I've heard the reason BMW is covering 100% of maintenance on leased cars for precisely that reason. People drove 3 years without a single oil change because it cost something like $250 to do so An oil change is $99 at a BMW dealership, but also an opportunity for them to upsell other things. The reason they're covering 100% of maintenance on new cars is because there's hardly anything to do in the first 3 years that isn't a warranty issue anyway. And there is a mileage limit on it, as well. It's a cheap program for them to run that helps people get over German car maintenance fears and also gives them a good pipeline of lease returns with maintenance history to CPO for high prices.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2020 22:41
|
|
|
"Free" maintenance is a topic very near and dear to my heart professionally, so I will not say too awfully much about it. One interesting fact - the take rate on the free scheduled maintenance is not 100% for the first scheduled maintenance (and not real close to 100%), and it goes down every subsequent year. So don't assume that just because your CPO BMW/Audi/Cadillac/Toyota/VW whatever the gently caress was covered by free maintenance during the prior owner's ownership period that the maintenance was actually done.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 00:02
|
|
|
The 86 seems really cool but not like thirty thousand dollars cool. It does have a poo poo ton more space than my ND
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 07:15
|
|
|
So I have a 2003 Mazda Protege with about 182,000 miles on it, it's always had belt issues (the belt would squeal loudly when you started the car up, or at low speeds) which led to me having to replace the alternator about every year and a half to two years. Lately it had been stalling when I was sitting idle, and refusing to accelerate when I pressed the gas, so I brought it into the shop. I just got a call a bit ago and apparently the issue is low compression in the cylinders. The mechanic says it's an internal issue and as such it'll probably be 2500-3000 dollars to repair. I'm thinking about getting a new (used) car. This is a lot of money to spend on a car I've already been having frequent issues with and while I know it's cheaper in the short term to just get it repaired, as far as the long term goes it might be better to just move on. The only issues I have are budget and to an extent my credit rating. My credit score is 512 (having a couple of major surgeries with no insurance tends to be bad for credit rating, who knew?) so I'm a bit worried I won't be able to find something decent due to that. I also don't have that much money, I have about 5500 in the bank right now and that's pretty much it. I don't do much with my car except drive to work every morning (about a ten mile drive) and occasional trips to visit other family one state over, which is around a 60 mile drive or so. I also do sometimes make longer trips with it (I drove it to Florida two years ago) but those are pretty rare. I don't do any moving really, so no need for a truck and I don't need an SUV either. The most people I ever have to drive around is 3, and even that's not often, it's usually just me and one other person. Just a simple car that runs well is good enough for me. I guess what I'm asking is is there a chance I can get a decent car without having to spend everything I have, and what should I look for?
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 21:02
|
|
|
Twelve by Pies posted:So I have a 2003 Mazda Protege with about 182,000 miles on it, it's always had belt issues (the belt would squeal loudly when you started the car up, or at low speeds) which led to me having to replace the alternator about every year and a half to two years. Lately it had been stalling when I was sitting idle, and refusing to accelerate when I pressed the gas, so I brought it into the shop. I just got a call a bit ago and apparently the issue is low compression in the cylinders. The mechanic says it's an internal issue and as such it'll probably be 2500-3000 dollars to repair. It sounds like price is your primary concern here, but I could be wrong. Could you be a dear and fill out the template in the OP? Although feel free to skip the parts that don't apply or that you already answered in your blurb, but helpful to know how much are you willing to spend, what are your priorities, and where are you willing to compromise? If you're truly looking to minimize cost as much as possible, it sounds like a private party sale is in your future, so I'd start by searching Craigslist and/or FB Marketplace. As far as models to look for, the consensus here is when you're looking past a certain age and below a certain price, model matters less than maintenance history. In my opinion, today you need to drop a minimum of $3k, maybe $5k to get a solid older ride that will last at least a few years (one more tolerable than your '03 Protege with 182k), but you will have to put maintenance dollars into it at the time of sale at that price. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jul 23, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 21:20
|
|
|
So, how do test drives work in the times of COVID-19? I'm in MA, if it matters.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 21:40
|
|
|
Magnetic North posted:So, how do test drives work in the times of COVID-19? I'm in MA, if it matters. They clean the surfaces and flush the AC vents and put you in the car by yourself and off you go! I just did two in CT. Sales guy met me outside, handed over keys in exchange for license.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 21:48
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:It sounds like price is your primary concern here, but I could be wrong. Could you be a dear and fill out the template in the OP? Although feel free to skip the parts that don't apply or that you already answered in your blurb, but helpful to know how much are you willing to spend, what are your priorities, and where are you willing to compromise? Ah, sure thing! Proposed Budget: I have 5500 in the bank and I make about 700 a month, though after groceries and other bills I'm probably looking at about 200-250 max I could spend a month on payments. New or Used: Used definitely Body Style: Probably 4 door, like I said it's generally just me and my mom that would be using it the most but having more space would be useful for when my brother comes over or if I just need to put some larger things in the backseat or something. Two door would probably be fine too though, I'm not going to be too picky as long as I can find something that works and isn't super expensive. Like I said no trucks or SUVs though, and definitely no sports cars. How will you be using the car?: Pretty much just to go to work, occasional trips that might be longer, nothing more than a day trip though (depending on how you define a day trip I guess, I did the 15 hour drive to Miami with my current one and I might do it again with the new one) What aspects are most important to you?: price, first and foremost, that's probably it, just something reliable and not costing much. quote:In my opinion, today you need to drop a minimum of $3k, maybe $5k to get a solid older ride that will last at least a few years Oof, 5k would be a lot, 3k I'd definitely be willing to drop though. I mean I could do 5k for sure, but I'd rather not spend everything I have in the bank. I did look at a few used car sites and while they had stuff like a 2k down payment and like 90-180 monthly, that's also with good credit, which I definitely do not have.
|
|
#
?
Jul 23, 2020 23:54
|
|
|
I'd avoid draining your savings if you could. Can you get to work with other transportation? Like a bike or moped? At that price point I would 100% avoid dealers. You'll want to buy private party. Something that is $3,000 on a lovely dealer lot will be like $1,500 private party. How much time do you have to figure this out?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 00:28
|
|
|
Twelve by Pies posted:
How do you know that's your credit score? If it's from Credit Karma, Credit Sesame, etc then it's a garbage number that doesn't mean anything.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 00:35
|
|
|
Gunshow Poophole posted:They clean the surfaces and flush the AC vents and put you in the car by yourself and off you go! I just did two in CT. Sales guy met me outside, handed over keys in exchange for license. Hell I should do the test drives for the models I'm interested in sometime soon then. Strike while the salespeople fear you(r viruses).
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 01:08
|
|
|
buy the nicest W body you can find, ideally with a 3800. they're cheap, easy to work on, basically unkillable, and parts are both common and extremely inexpensive new, and readily available from junkyards. random interior poo poo might stop working but the powertrain will last a lifetime. upside: mostly owned by old people so they are frequently well maintained and not super high mileage. Models include: Buick Century (up to 2005) - has the 3.1L V6, which has an intake manifold gasket problem, but that is a fairly easy and cheap fix. Otherwise reliable though a bit gutless Buick Regal (up to 2004) - has the 3.8L V6, basically unkillable. Don't buy the GS trim. Pontiac Grand Prix (up to 2003) - has either the 3.1 or the 3.8. Don't buy the GTP or GXP trims. Chevrolet Impala (up to 2005) - avoid the 3.4, the 3.8 is good. Other option - nicest Panther platform you can find. They are also cheap, easy to work on, and basically unkillable. Similar virtues as the W body. They are big and not very good on gas around town. Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis. Edit: if you possibly can, I would avoid car ownership. That budget is very, very tight. Last thing you need is a car and insurance and tags and gas and all that stuff if you can possibly avoid it - but I know this is America and you may not be able to.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 01:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 04:02 |
|
|
Loan Dusty Road posted:I'd avoid draining your savings if you could. Can you get to work with other transportation? Like a bike or moped? For just getting to work a moped wouldn't be bad, a bike would be a bit much since I start work at 5:45 and I don't want to wake up at like 4:30 AM just to go to work. It wouldn't really be an option for grocery shopping or taking the trash to the dump though, so I'd still need a car. As far as how much time I have to figure this out, however long it takes before my car just completely breaks down, which who knows how long that is. TheWevel posted:How do you know that's your credit score? If it's from Credit Karma, Credit Sesame, etc then it's a garbage number that doesn't mean anything. It's from Intuit, which for all I know could be a made up number too. But what I do know is I'm thousands of dollars in medical debt and have had a court case against me for that debt, which ultimately doesn't mean a lot since in Virginia you can't have your wages garnished for medical debt, the most it affects me outside the credit score is I get a letter every year after doing my taxes saying my state income tax refund has been forfeited. So even if that isn't my exact credit score, I do know my credit sucks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 04:27
|
|