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Bioshuffle posted:How the gently caress did any of you figure poo poo out before Youtube was a thing? Asking people who knew, looking through manuals, printed resources like those books from Black and Decker or code books and last resort hiring someone.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:09
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Books and magazines were popular. Also everything used to come with detailed schematics and instructions for maintenance and repair. Product lines were a lot simpler and lasted years if not decades as well, so if you'd seen one sink/outlet/heater you'd seen them all, more or less.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:12
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Bioshuffle posted:How the gently caress did any of you figure poo poo out before Youtube was a thing? Old dudes in hardware stores were great for telling you not just the proper way to do something, but then also the easiest way. I remember when I was buying a bunch of painting supplies, the old dude scoffing at my buying masking tape. "Get yourself a proper brush for cutting in and it will be just as good and you won't waste time taping everything up."
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Jul 20, 2020 17:32
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Bioshuffle posted:How the gently caress did any of you figure poo poo out before Youtube was a thing? Quality books are still one of the best sources. At least a book has some level of vetting and a desire to not publish bad information (since it can't easily be changed.) I've watched plenty of plumbing/electrical YT videos where the advice was downright dangerously wrong.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:44
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Speaking of, what are y'alls' preferred YouTube sources? Lots of folks here know lots of things and it'd be nice to get the crowdsourced word on some of these DIYouTubers' trustworthiness/accuracy.
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Jul 20, 2020 17:56
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PainterofCrap posted:I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it appears that the drywall is installed, probably with a layer of insulation that isn't doing much, tight up against the underside of the roof. Forgot to mention that some of the ductwork for the AC is located both in the closet (where the big damage is) as well as behind a crawlspace on the same side the room where the mold is. Is that a contributing factor? Heat had been unrelenting where I am, and it’s humid as well. EDIT: just took a quick look, there’s visible condensation on the two vents in the closet and condensation to the touch on the ductwork in the crawlspace. Guess I found where the mold is getting water from. Gonna get a dehumidifier up there. George Zimmer fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jul 20, 2020 |
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Jul 20, 2020 18:41
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mutata posted:Speaking of, what are y'alls' preferred YouTube sources? Lots of folks here know lots of things and it'd be nice to get the crowdsourced word on some of these DIYouTubers' trustworthiness/accuracy.
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Jul 20, 2020 19:20
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mutata posted:Speaking of, what are y'alls' preferred YouTube sources? Lots of folks here know lots of things and it'd be nice to get the crowdsourced word on some of these DIYouTubers' trustworthiness/accuracy. Plumbing/oil furnaces/HVAC: https://www.youtube.com/user/stevenlavimoniere (Steve Lav) Electrical (some HVAC, misc): https://www.youtube.com/user/bensahlstrom (Ben Sahlstrom) Concrete: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5y5SeEYvz_MqPmBU_zLTyA (Odell) General Contracting: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjG94SagJZoyPggcBhUdFCA (Stud Pack) HVAC: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2AsqyR6xLMkte3mQHf-umw (Quality HVACR) Handyman Misc: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtXVIqkc3iBk0bV5gvcNWgw Electrical: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCVMLgV5EGZAhCIc2XMKiMkg (Peterson Electric) Building Science/New Products: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFCTrfb1JUJjs3Im8OZDtBw (Matt Risinger) I'm sure everybody already has: Essential Craftsman, Matthias Wandel, Project Farm, and HomeRenovision.
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Jul 20, 2020 19:36
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By the time I was DIYing, internet tutorials were a thing but I always remember seeing those 'how to' books by the checkout counters at home depot/lowes. Probably a mix of that and 'knowing a guy'.
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Jul 20, 2020 19:42
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Easy I just post here with something obviously dangerously wrong and wait for motronic to lose his mind. Speaking of which I still need to know which type of smoke detector to buy, I'm thinking of going ionized because there's no cooking by-product to set of a photo sensor.
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Jul 20, 2020 19:43
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B-Nasty posted:Plumbing/oil furnaces/HVAC: https://www.youtube.com/user/stevenlavimoniere (Steve Lav) This would be good to go in the OP maybe.
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Jul 20, 2020 19:45
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:By the time I was DIYing, internet tutorials were a thing but I always remember seeing those 'how to' books by the checkout counters at home depot/lowes. Probably a mix of that and 'knowing a guy'. The other alternative being "loving poo poo up and being a terrible PO with poo poo work"  I have a Black & Decker Home DIY book that's pretty generalist in what it covers that I like to look at but then I come here or google/youtube for more specific details. We've got some lights coming that I will need to hardwire install after removing the current fixtures so some electrical thread posting is probably in my near future.
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Jul 20, 2020 19:50
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George Zimmer posted:I feared something like that, thanks. I would pick a damaged area, cut out the drywall & see what's up there.
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Jul 21, 2020 01:19
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H110Hawk posted:Easy I just post here with something obviously dangerously wrong and wait for motronic to lose his mind. I am eagerly awaiting you getting a rec because I’m freaking tired of researching and ordering stuff for this remodel
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Jul 21, 2020 03:42
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I can't believe none of you have mentioned the "time life guide to X". You buy it, read it on the john, before the wife makes you send it back for your full no questions asked 30 day money back guarantee.
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Jul 21, 2020 11:31
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Is there a thread for pest control? If not, I have ants - what should I do?
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Jul 21, 2020 14:27
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Is there a thread for pest control? What kind of ants? If it's the small sugar ants inside your house, those Terro liquid ant baits work really well. For bigger infestations or other types, research solutions here: https://www.domyown.com/
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Jul 21, 2020 15:39
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Is there a thread for pest control? Interestingly there is a thread on ants that is informative, over in A&T. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3931203 In short GAG does not advocate straight up poisoning: quote:In general I always recommend to not go too all-in with ant poison. The spray is one thing, it kills one or a few ants (horribly painful, you don't want to see what it does to them in detail and I saw it under a microscope a few times), but the food poison often used as bait is straight up horrible. There are ant species out there that require this, no questions asked, some are pests that you need to fight with all we have as else they could make some areas virtually uninhabitable, but by far most ant species don't do that and using poison to kill them there is not useful, it's counterproductive and hurts your entire local ecosystem. If you post in there he might have some better insights on how to best control your problem. He will likely ask questions about how to identify what kinds of ants you are dealing with, where you live, where you are seeing the ants, how they are getting in to your home (assuming that's the issue you are having), etc. Personally speaking I have gone around my perimeter with Diatomaceous earth and that's served me pretty well.
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Jul 21, 2020 15:43
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CzarChasm posted:Interestingly there is a thread on ants that is informative, over in A&T. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3931203 Thanks for this. Ideally I'd like to not use poison, I'll post over there.
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Jul 21, 2020 16:04
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H110Hawk posted:Easy I just post here with something obviously dangerously wrong and wait for motronic to lose his mind. Hed posted:I am eagerly awaiting you getting a rec because I’m freaking tired of researching and ordering stuff for this remodel Allow me to help Motronic help you both (because I messaged him exactly this like 4 months ago): Motronic posted:The go to is likely to be the First Alert smoke/CO combo detector that matches what you need (hard wire, battery, zwave, etc). $25-40 each depending on which.
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Jul 21, 2020 22:00
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I didn't realize ionization vs photoelectric smoke detectors were a thing until recently. All mine are ionization, sealed lithium 10-year kiddies. I like them because they don't false alarm and are all still testing successfully after 6 years now. Of course maybe they suck and won't detect fires - I am fortunate enough to not have had their functionality verified in this way. Apparently a "mix of both" is preferable (but which do I put where!?) and Massachusetts code requires photoelectrics or combos, as apparently photoelectrics are (much?) better at detecting smoldering fires. Should I go get a bunch of photoelectrics to mix in, or replace with these when my ionization ones expire? Are they more or less prone to false alarms? FWIW, my house is old and has some hacky electrical wiring (and a couple maxed out circuits operating just below the trip threshold in summer A/C times) so electrical fires feel like my outsized fire risk. admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jul 21, 2020 |
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Jul 21, 2020 22:55
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Finally found a perfect sized little shelving unit to store some kitchen things and get my Breville out of the pantry and into the kitchen (and on a better circuit) without clobbering my limited countertop space.  It matches well and fits nicely but it's top-heavy and wobbletown with the big little oven. Taking off the wheels (which are locked) helps a tiny bit, but not a whole lot, and I do like the extra height from them. Trying to brainstorm a way to secure it to the wall without it looking completely terrible. A little terrible is OK if it's really secure. I'd like to use a cuttingboard on top of the oven and store glass bottles below, both of which kinda suck in wobbletown USA. Lofty idea:  (even loftier drawing) Screw some wood into the bottom of the window still that goes across to the other window still, and then secure the shelving using something like this but in the correct size, if I can find such a thing:  How dumb is this? Do you have a less lofty idea?
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Jul 22, 2020 02:50
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admiraldennis posted:Finally found a perfect sized little shelving unit to store some kitchen things and get my Breville out of the pantry and into the kitchen (and on a better circuit) without clobbering my limited countertop space. Go on top of the window sill instead, and use some of this to attach that horizontal rod to the wood?
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Jul 22, 2020 02:58
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I did some touchups to my wall paint. For some reason after it dried, it doesn't match - it looks like someone just sprayed some water on the wall and it never dried - that kind of darker effect. I had used my brush previously with another paint and washed it out as thoroughly as I could. Do you think some of the other paint stayed on the brush and affected the new color, or could it have been that the brush was still wet from the previous washing out (in case that matters)? edit: could this also possible be due to differences in gloss used? say I have an eggshell now but actually used a different gloss previously. actionjackson fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 03:10
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Yeah, that sounds like a difference in gloss to me. You might try scuffing it lightly with some 200-grit sandpaper. Or that might make it look even worse, it's just an idea I had.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, that sounds like a difference in gloss to me. You might try scuffing it lightly with some 200-grit sandpaper. Or that might make it look even worse, it's just an idea I had. thanks. I didn't do a ton of touching up so I'm just going to go to where I got the original paint and double check what they gave me then.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:27
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admiraldennis posted:Apparently a "mix of both" is preferable (but which do I put where!?) and Massachusetts code requires photoelectrics or combos, as apparently photoelectrics are (much?) better at detecting smoldering fires. In a new home, the code is a smoke detector in any room where someone "could" sleep. There must be at least one smoke detector on every level and there must be a carbon monoxide detector on every level. All of the alarms need to be interconnected--meaning if one alarm goes off, every alarm goes off. First Alert makes a great 10 year, interconnected, wireless alarm. Code requires hardwired interconnected smoke detectors, but our inspectors will pass these. They seem them as more reliable than the hardwired connections. You can spread them around the house, setting up each alarm with a location. If a detector is triggered--it sets off the alarm though out the house and announces which detector caused the alarm. Kidde also makes great stuff too.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:43
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Windows are squeaking when opening/closing. Lithium grease or silicon grease for the tracks? House is a couple years old so whatever type of windows in the standard new house. Plastic/Vinyl?
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Jul 22, 2020 08:15
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actionjackson posted:I did some touchups to my wall paint. For some reason after it dried, it doesn't match - it looks like someone just sprayed some water on the wall and it never dried - that kind of darker effect. I had used my brush previously with another paint and washed it out as thoroughly as I could. Do you think some of the other paint stayed on the brush and affected the new color, or could it have been that the brush was still wet from the previous washing out (in case that matters)? A sheen difference will look different from different angles, usually it'll match better looking straight at the wall and then be much more noticeable looking at it from an angle. Wet brush wouldn't have mattered, adding a touch of water to paint can actually help it touch up sometimes. First thing I would check is that your touch up paint is the exact paint you used, since it sounds like you bought fresh paint to touch up with. Same brand, product line, sheen, and formula. If the original paint was Ben Moore Super Spec, and you bought Ben Moore Regal to touch up, for example, it will be a bit different even if they were both the same color and sheen. Also depending on the paint, where it was bought, and how long ago, there could be something out of your control like the paint product has been reformulated, tinter recalibrated at the store, etc. Sometimes it's just a matter of not enough paint on the wall to begin with. If only one coat was used when it was painted before, it can often look good and even and you or the painter calls it good. Now you go to touch up and you've got 2 coats there vs 1 coat all around it and really you're seeing the "true" color and sheen on your touch ups.
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Jul 22, 2020 12:12
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So the cupboard under the kitchen sink smells musty. We've taken everything out, wiped down all 5 surfaces, and aired it out and it's ok, but as soon as we leave it closed up overnight it comes right back. I've looked really closely for water stains or any other indication of a leak and can't find anything, so perhaps it's behind one of the inner walls? Or just musty? Any suggestions? Would a plumber go behind the back of the enclosure or would I need to get someone more general? TIA
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Jul 22, 2020 20:58
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Could it be something you're putting in the cupboard? Have you tried leaving it empty to see if the smell still returns?
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Jul 22, 2020 21:01
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lol internet. posted:Windows are squeaking when opening/closing. Throwing this out there. When I was redoing my back sliding door, the recommendation was paraffin wax because dirt wouldn't stick to it. Less of a concern on a window rather than a threshold you walk over.
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Jul 22, 2020 21:02
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Final Blog Entry posted:A sheen difference will look different from different angles, usually it'll match better looking straight at the wall and then be much more noticeable looking at it from an angle. Wet brush wouldn't have mattered, adding a touch of water to paint can actually help it touch up sometimes. First thing I would check is that your touch up paint is the exact paint you used, since it sounds like you bought fresh paint to touch up with. Same brand, product line, sheen, and formula. If the original paint was Ben Moore Super Spec, and you bought Ben Moore Regal to touch up, for example, it will be a bit different even if they were both the same color and sheen. Also depending on the paint, where it was bought, and how long ago, there could be something out of your control like the paint product has been reformulated, tinter recalibrated at the store, etc. i went and got two new versions, so hopefully they will resolve the issue. for one of them, I went back to the store where I got the paint done originally so it should match up. The place I got the touchup sample from used a different brand for a base which may have caused the issue as you said. For the other one, I had the original pain the owners used, but it was nine years old, and the cover didn't even stay on after hammering anymore, so that was my bad using it. I did bring in actual pieces from the wall to match.
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Jul 23, 2020 00:37
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Fuzzy Mammal posted:So the cupboard under the kitchen sink smells musty. We've taken everything out, wiped down all 5 surfaces, and aired it out and it's ok, but as soon as we leave it closed up overnight it comes right back. I've looked really closely for water stains or any other indication of a leak and can't find anything, so perhaps it's behind one of the inner walls? Or just musty? Take everything out of the cabinet. Cover the inside 'floor' with paper towels laid flat & even. Check it every once in a while.
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Jul 23, 2020 01:28
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Previous owner wanted to ensure that a laundry stand mount persisted through the heat death of the universe: How the gently caress do I get rid of it?   Stuff that I've tried: 1. Digging: Got down roughly 2' on one side and the ground is very very settled. Haven't found the bottom yet and there's no movement from pushing on it. 2. Using a bottle jack to try and get some movement: maybe a millimeter or two under heavy strain. Hard to get purchase. 3. Hitting the gently caress out of it with a three pound sledge: minimal effect. I'm on a very restrictive budget so I'd like to avoid renting heavy duty equipment if i can, but I'm legit stuck on what to do next.
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Jul 23, 2020 17:48
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Cut the post and bury the concrete for the next guy to find.
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Jul 23, 2020 17:55
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I have to regrade the backyard which unfortunately precludes this very sensible approach.
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Jul 23, 2020 17:58
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Buy a Rotary Hammer and bull nose bit like I did  E: this does not help with your budget point E2: if you're in the DFW area I'll gently caress it up into small pieces for you just to use my new toy. Otherwise you might try using a ratchet strap on the top of the pole to something heavy and ratcheting it sideways to break it out of the ground. Then you can roll it on its side. If you do this then don't stand behind the ratchet in case the rope or something breaks. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jul 23, 2020 |
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Jul 23, 2020 18:02
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Chef Boyardeez Nuts posted:I have to regrade the backyard which unfortunately precludes this very sensible approach. How are you doing the regrading? If it involves heavy machinery I would wait for that. How far are you grading? If I were doing this and a redneck I would anchor a chain/snatch strap to it and preload it with a pickup truck or come-along. Then start whacking it with a pickaxe to go deeper and deeper. If/when it ever suddenly unloads then double plus danger. Do you have a post-hole digger you could use to see just how many bags of concrete this person put in?
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Jul 23, 2020 18:06
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Concrete chisel + hammer? I removed a mystery 4x4 at my old house with a similar amount of concrete on it that way. It wasn't fun.
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Jul 23, 2020 18:06
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