|
I have a 99 ranger that needs rear brakes and I'm planning on swapping out the drum brakes with disc brakes. I'm not doing any heavy hauling with it, just trips to the depot pretty much. So my question is: Is it worth it, or do I just go in and replace all the parts of the drum brakes instead? Am I just being dumb and asking for trouble?
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 14:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 22:06 |
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I have a 99 ranger that needs rear brakes and I'm planning on swapping out the drum brakes with disc brakes. I'm not doing any heavy hauling with it, just trips to the depot pretty much. Can you explain your reason for wanting to do this? That will tell us whether it's worth it or not. If the answer is "drum brakes are a pain to change" that's not a good one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 16:34
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Can you explain your reason for wanting to do this? That will tell us whether it's worth it or not. If the answer is "drum brakes are a pain to change" that's not a good one. In all honesty its "I want to learn how to replace drum brakes with disc brakes because hopefully in 5-10 years I'll be doing it on a much cooler car". I have grand ideas of doing a restomod on a late 60's/early 70's somethingorother, and a big part of buying a cheap rear end beater truck was to be able to teach myself car stuff on something that I didn't have to rely on to get to and from work every day. The ranger isn't going to be breaking any land speed records, and I know the disc brakes on it will be relatively wasted, but on the other hand the experience would be useful.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 16:57
|
|
|
Seems like a great reason to me then. Hobbies should be fun and don't need to be practical. Just take lots of photos in case you get to a point that the project is a total cluster and you decide to go back.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 17:04
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:In all honesty its "I want to learn how to replace drum brakes with disc brakes because hopefully in 5-10 years I'll be doing it on a much cooler car". If it's worth $500+ in parts and having a oddball truck where it might be a pain to find pads and rotors (depending on the kit you choose) there's certainly no harm in it. It's a good a reason as any. You'll probably want to splash out on a pressure bleeder (like a Motive) to do this job.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 17:07
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If it's worth $500+ in parts and having a oddball truck where it might be a pain to find pads and rotors (depending on the kit you choose) there's certainly no harm in it. It's a good a reason as any. This is pretty much me just doing Youtube university to learn something.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 17:12
|
|
|
Will it have a working parking brake? You'll need to rework the proportioning valve and or the master cylinder. Didn't the late model rangers come with rear disk? pillage parts from those.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 18:06
|
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:Will it have a working parking brake? Yes it will have a parking brake. Nothing I've seen on anything discussing the conversion (rangerforums, rangerstation) have discussed proportioning the valve or master cylinder. If that's the case that might bump this out of the realm of "poo poo I'm comfortable doing". In 2010 and 11 the ranger had rear discs but those aren't compatible with mine apparently, but mustang brakes are pretty much a direct swap. https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/ford_ranger_rear_disc_brake_conversion.shtml https://www.ranger-forums.com/engine-drivetrain-122/how-rear-disc-brake-conversion-stock-28-spline-ranger-rear-end-95557/ ChrisFix on youtube is apparently working on a video detailing the whole process that I'm kind of waiting to see before buying anything. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jul 24, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 18:19
|
|
|
Mr. Wiggles posted:Amarillo is unfathomably terrible void in which nothing matters and everything is awful.  I would have gone to Lubbock instead, but Wrench-a-part has been picked over so much nothing is left, and they will nickel-and-dime you to death on every little thing. rndmnmbr fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Jul 24, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 18:35
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Can you explain your reason for wanting to do this? That will tell us whether it's worth it or not. If the answer is "drum brakes are a pain to change" that's not a good one. Also, is it your daily driver or a spare vehicle?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 19:00
|
|
|
I just picked up a 2006 Mazda 3 with the 5 speed, everything seems to check out except 3rd gear grinds a little. All the other gears are fine and just going 2->4, while not ideal, seems to work just fine in the meantime. Worst-case scenario, if I need to rebuild the transmission, how much would I be looking at to have a shop do it? Just a ballpark, obviously every situation is different.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2020 19:12
|
|
|
rndmnmbr posted:
Even fuses? I haven't bought a fuse since 1979.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 00:48
|
|
|
You get away with what you can get away with. But I'm sure they would if they caught you. It's a shame I don't live in SW Oklahoma anymore, I've given a lot of money to Parts World in Roosevelt. They're about 400 acres at this point, and don't crush, so they have a lot of older stuff still available.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 02:01
|
|
|
Any suggestions on a class 3 trailer hitch? I’m looking for something that won’t take too much of my clearance and is relatively cheap. I don’t plan on towing much, but would like the option to do so. I would like the opening to be 2”.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 02:40
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:Any suggestions on a class 3 trailer hitch? I’m looking for something that won’t take too much of my clearance and is relatively cheap. I don’t plan on towing much, but would like the option to do so. I would like the opening to be 2”. What color car will you be putting it on?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 02:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:What color car will you be putting it on? White, but the bottom bumper is black.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 03:02
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:White, but the bottom bumper is black. Surely you understand the question. First of all, class 3 hitched are 2". Secondly if you want a recommendation you need to say what make/model/year it's going on. Hitches aren't all the same. Sometimes it's "get a <usual suspects>" and sometimes it's a "hey, thee was a factory option for that and you can get it at a salvage yard/on ebay for almost nothing and it bolts right on up". Help us help you.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 03:14
|
|
|
Please read the first post of this thread, like it says in the thread title. I presume you're asking about the VW Tiguan you asked about in the other thread.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 03:15
|
|
|
I've got a 2010 Volkswagen Golf, 2.5L engine, manual transmission, ~95k miles. I've never had any major issues with it and have been pretty good with maintenance and upkeep. I haven't been driving my car every day, given corona. I went to start my car this afternoon. It was hot and humid today in Minneapolis. It banged to a start, with a flashing check engine light, and I noticed a pretty nasty smell pretty quickly. I let it go on for about ten seconds, hoping it would get better, before I turned it off. I checked the oil, and while it was a little low, nothing really jumped out at me. I added a little and started it again. It started normally, more or less, with no banging and no flashing yellow light. I drove it to the grocery store, two miles away, and back, without the issue or the check engine light appearing again. I changed the oil myself last September and had the spark plugs changed at 80k. The internet is making me think there might be something strange with the catalytic converter or ignition coils but I'm really at a loss. I have a Hayes guide and like to think I'm slowly getting better at doing some routine maintenance, but I have no idea what this could be about. Edit: I forgot to mention the AC isn't working as well as it used to. Not sure if that could be related. gnrk fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jul 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 03:31
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Surely you understand the question. First of all, class 3 hitched are 2". Secondly if you want a recommendation you need to say what make/model/year it's going on. Hitches aren't all the same. Sometimes it's "get a <usual suspects>" and sometimes it's a "hey, thee was a factory option for that and you can get it at a salvage yard/on ebay for almost nothing and it bolts right on up". My bad. I was texting from my phone and was lazy. I'm currently driving a 2019 Volkswagen Tiguan, the engine is a 2.0L TSI (184 horsepower and 221 pound-feet of torque). The towing capacity is listed at 1,500 lbs. This isn't something I want to necessarily buy anytime soon, but just wanted a general idea of what options there were out there. I'm also trying to figure out do I need one, how much am I going to use it vs the price point etc. This basically started because my friend knew I've been looking for a SUV for a while and he has a small camper that he he said would be cool to borrow and go somewhere. His camper is super tiny, I don't know the model of it. I think he sleeps in the camper and keeps his stuff in the car or the other way around. Anyway, I was also shopping for some WeatherTech mats and noticed that they sell bumper guards that attach to a hitch (hence, me asking for a 2"). Which would be cool. because where I currently live, my bumper gets hosed on the regular. Overkill for a bumper guard, but having the option to attach a trailer to it seems kinda cool. I shouldn't be shopping for a Class 3 if my car would never be able to pull the weight. Whoops, forgot the most basic question. If my car can only pull 1,500 lbs, I should be looking at a Class 1 hitch correct? Does that include the weight of the people in the car, or just want it is towing? obi_ant fucked around with this message at 04:30 on Jul 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 04:24
|
|
|
gnrk posted:I've got a 2010 Volkswagen Golf, 2.5L engine, manual transmission, ~95k miles. I've never had any major issues with it and have been pretty good with maintenance and upkeep. I haven't been driving my car every day, given corona. Sorry, I can’t help much with diagnosis. There are some good VW mechanics in the area though. It might be OK to try starting it again and see what happened. Maybe get a recording too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 04:44
|
|
|
Blinking CEL is a misfire code. If they got an OBD2 scanner it would have the cylinder recorded, right? Then you could narrow down where to look. The part stores will loan you one or scan it for you.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 06:20
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:My bad. I was texting from my phone and was lazy. I have this on a 2018 Tiguan. Install is super easy. I’m only using it for a bike rack. If the car is only rated to tow 1500 there’s no harm in using a class 3 hitch, you just don’t exceed the towing capacity. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C13381.html
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 11:23
|
|
|
gnrk posted:I've got a 2010 Volkswagen Golf, 2.5L engine, manual transmission, ~95k miles. I've never had any major issues with it and have been pretty good with maintenance and upkeep. I haven't been driving my car every day, given corona. Although there were no lights when I checked with a tool AutoZone loaned me, I was able to find these four codes, P0300 Intermittent - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0301 Intermittent - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected P0302 Intermittent - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected P0303 Intermittent - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected I started the car to look at some live data and everything came on fine with no lights. I didn't see anything that looked off about cylinders four and five. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't tempted to order some new spark plugs and ignition coils, as I've never replaced either and it looks relatively straightforward, but I'm happy to hold off and bring it somewhere if the spark plugs/ignition coils are lower on the diagnostic chain. What does everybody think? Should I hold off on driving the car until this is resolved? Thanks for all the feedback and advice!
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 16:47
|
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:I have this on a 2018 Tiguan. Install is super easy. I’m only using it for a bike rack. If the car is only rated to tow 1500 there’s no harm in using a class 3 hitch, you just don’t exceed the towing capacity. That was one of the ones I was looking at, I was also looking at the Class II. How much clearance did you lose with with the hitch? From the pictures it doesn't look like too much and it looks pretty level with the exhaust; but the reviews don't really go into that. Edit: I also read some reviews that claim the hitch will help protect them a bit better in a rear end accident. Is there any validity to that? obi_ant fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Jul 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 16:55
|
|
|
gnrk posted:Although there were no lights when I checked with a tool AutoZone loaned me, I was able to find these four codes, I’m not familiar with this engine...however, the same issue on my ‘07 Versa was a leaking valve-cover gasket that was filling the spark-plug wells with oil and causing an arcing condition.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 17:29
|
|
|
obi_ant posted:Edit: I also read some reviews that claim the hitch will help protect them a bit better in a rear end accident. Is there any validity to that? No. It does mean your car is more likely to be a total loss after being rear ended - the hitch is going to transfer all of that energy to the cargo floor. But the cargo floor is thin steel (like most of the unibody), it'll likely just rip the hitch out before it "protects" you. Once the hitch is out of the way, the crumple zones will do their job. But if you're getting hit hard enough for that, it's probably a writeoff at that point even without the hitch. The more crushed a car is after an accident, the more likely you are to walk away from it relatively unscathed (compared to the same accident in an older car). The crushing is the crumple zones absorbing the energy, for the most part. This is hard to watch for anybody that likes old cars, but it shows how well crumple zones work on a modern car vs an old car. The driver of the Malibu would have been hurting a bit, but would live. The driver of the Bel Air would be dead before the cars even stopped. Or at least so hosed up that they'd be a vegetable. I think the "the hitch makes you less likely to get hurt" bit is because it's solid steel bolted to the back of the car. It's just gonna either rip out of its mounts, or crush the trunk/cargo floor before the crumple zones can do anything. gnrk posted:Although there were no lights when I checked with a tool AutoZone loaned me, I was able to find these four codes, How exposed is the engine to rain when the hood is closed? That kinda sounds like water got in under the coils and made for a fun time. Or it's possible your valve cover gasket is leaking a little into the spark plug wells, like PainterofCrap mentioned. That normally only happens when driving though, and you'll get a misfire until you pull the plugs or somehow get the oil out of the wells. It could also be a little bit of oil leaking past the valve guides while it was parked, and just fouling the hell out of 3 plugs, You can't tell that until you pull the plugs though, and ideally you'd pull them after it's been sitting a long time again. You'd be looking for oil on the tip of the plug (not on the insulator side, but the part inside the engine). I've had 3 cars where this was An Issue when the cars were parked for more than a week (usually 1 or 2 cylinders). Lots of smoke from the exhaust, flashing CEL for a minute, just had to hold it at ~3k until it cleared up (and to keep it from stalling). If you find a bunch of oil on the insulator side of the plug, congrats, you're doing the valve cover grommets and gasket. Then you're gonna crank it over with the plugs out for a bit to get all that oil that drained into the cylinders back out... randomidiot fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jul 25, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 17:33
|
|
|
I’d like to learn more about suspensions and the delicate balance of upgrading them. I settled on set of Tein Flex Z coilovers (buddy club sport spec is backordered for months) for my Si, but I’m curious about sway bars, strut bars, trunk braces, etc. Where can I read more about this? Most non-SA forum posts I’ve found are barely literate.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 17:49
|
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:I’d like to learn more about suspensions and the delicate balance of upgrading them. I settled on set of Tein Flex Z coilovers (buddy club sport spec is backordered for months) for my Si, but I’m curious about sway bars, strut bars, trunk braces, etc. Where can I read more about this? Most non-SA forum posts I’ve found are barely literate. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-roll_bar Based on what I know, thats a reasonably good article.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 18:27
|
|
|
So as luck would have it my 2015 Mazda3's check engine light came on while my wife is driving it 8 hours away from me. The code it popped was P0171 (system too lean bank 1). I'm seeing to get a sense of how safe (or not) it is for her to drive around for a week or so. Anyone?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 20:03
|
|
|
It's not ideal, but it should be fine for now. It likely has a vacuum leak of some kind. If it starts pinging while cruising, then it needs to get looked at ASAP, but for now just tell her to keep her foot out of it. Did she happen to change the oil recently? Or check the oil? A loose oil cap or a dipstick not all the way in can cause that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 20:15
|
|
|
vulturesrow posted:So as luck would have it my 2015 Mazda3's check engine light came on while my wife is driving it 8 hours away from me. The code it popped was P0171 (system too lean bank 1). I'm seeing to get a sense of how safe (or not) it is for her to drive around for a week or so. Anyone? Don't know the answer but if you have the PZEV model (originally sold in a state that follows CA emission law) I think this would be covered by the warranty (15 years / 150k miles) Edit: wait it might be only for specific components. My bad
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 20:20
|
|
|
project: unfuck this altima ok, i bought a battery charger/repair tool and it brought this battery back to life, even though the owner said he wasnt able to jump it. i topped off the gas and drove it to my place. two issues, misfire on cyl 3, will look at the coils/plugs later this weekend but my big concern is this funky rear end wobble it does at any speed and it only gets worse when you go faster: https://i.imgur.com/nGDCzlo.mp4 the front tires are fuuuucked up and definitely need to go but i cant tell if they are the cause of the problem or whatever the problem is caused the worn tires. it tracks straight, does not wander, but the wiggle feels concerning and i refused to go over 35 to be safe. turns and brakes fine. thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 22:43
|
|
|
I'm going to guess broken belt in one or both front tires. You need tires and an alignment at a minimum. Get the thing off the ground and try moving the front wheels with your hands and 12 o'clock and 6, then at 9 and 3 and report back. 12 and 6 clunk will be bearings or similar, 9 and 3 are gonna be steering linkage parts. The parts out to be cheap, so like....this is achievable. But figure out what to replace first because it's all gonna f up the alignment. So if you can do all of that before the obvious tires and alignment you win.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 23:10
|
|
|
gnrk posted:Although there were no lights when I checked with a tool AutoZone loaned me, I was able to find these four codes, Try to get it taken care of quickly. Misfires dump fuel into the exhaust and that can ruin your cat. And not the furry kind.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2020 23:48
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Motronic posted:I'm going to guess broken belt in one or both front tires. You need tires and an alignment at a minimum. Also: PUT ON THICK GLOVES in case the weave is starting to come through the carcass/tread
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 00:44
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:I have a 99 ranger that needs rear brakes and I'm planning on swapping out the drum brakes with disc brakes. I'm not doing any heavy hauling with it, just trips to the depot pretty much. cursedshitbox posted:You'll need to rework the proportioning valve and or the master cylinder. Take it from someone who had a 00 ranger. It's not worth it. Especially if you have ABS, because iirc only the rear has ABS for some dumb reason, even though the front has the discs. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jul 26, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 01:31
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is a giant pain and not worth the effort. Probably because if the rears lock up you'll spin out.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 02:23
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Probably because if the rears lock up you'll spin out. yup. As much as rear drums suck, it'll step out if the truck is unladen and on low traction surfaces. GnarlyCharlie4u posted:This is a giant pain and not worth the effort. Agreed. Swap in a disc-brake 8.8 or something if you must screw with it. The coin is best chasing after differed maintenance or building a slush fund for when something breaks.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 02:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 22:06 |
|
|
cursedshitbox posted:yup. You don't even need the brakes for the rear of a ranger to step out on you. I remember the first day I had mine and I ran over some train tracks that I used to cross all time in other things, including full sized pickups. It was much more exciting than it should have been.
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2020 15:41
|
|