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Immolat1on posted:Just checked the code with my access port and it was.... loose gas cap. Now I'm embarrassed I got all worried about it but I had never seen limp mode before (or had to check engine codes) but it was a good learning experience for a car noob. If it makes you feel any better, same thing happened to me and I'm sure many, many others.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:41
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So there's a little spacer type thing on the output of the OEM fuel pump that needs to be swapped over, it goes below the o ring/s. Learn from my mistake. Car runs and drives great now. Hope to make some good progress with the tune over the coming days. Wideband should be here mid-week, and I have a Visconti harness to aid in the install. I'll be running it from the rear O2.
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Jul 14, 2020 00:02
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I'm gonna be doing a front wheel bearing on a buddy's 2016 Subaru WRX in a couple of weeks. I have a bunch of tools but have never done a wheel bearing and don't have a puller. What tools am I going to need and (if I need a puller) what's a good cheap one to get?
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Jul 16, 2020 13:32
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The cheapest puller is the rented one at AutoZone. Next cheapest is the puller you return to harbor freight after using once. In la la land you can remove the bearing off the spindle without a puller. But even a hint of rust it will need a puller. A few other things you'll need that aren't standard tool kit will include a punch and hammer to unlock/lock the spindle nut, a new spindle nut since you aren't supposed to use the detent more than once, a 36mm socket for the spindle nut (not a lot of kits come with sizes that large), a universal or wobble adapter to get at the nuts next to the CV boot, an S hook or cable ties to hold up the brake caliper and anti-sieze to apply to the spindle when assembling it back together. Of course apply penetrant to all nuts and bolts about a half hour before work starts. An impact gun makes everything easier. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Jul 16, 2020 |
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Jul 16, 2020 14:01
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OK pretty sure I have a 36mm socket but I'll have to double check. Glad I asked. Should have the rest (except the nut, I'll make sure my buddy gets one). And a puller is probably something I should have since I'm probably gonna need it in the future, I just want to make sure I get something that works on my upcoming project. If the harbor freight ones are halfway decent I'll get one of those, if not I'll get something from Amazon or something. Just don't know if there's a good lower end puller set that people prefer.
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Jul 16, 2020 18:08
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Try the tools thread in AI. They'll know. I personally have a gearwrench slide hammer that I use to pull stuff.
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Jul 16, 2020 18:23
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Internet Explorer posted:If it makes you feel any better, same thing happened to me and I'm sure many, many others. I got a tow because mine popped on 40 miles from home on the interstate. Thankfully it was a free tow, but it was still a major pain and even worse finding out it was just a loose gas cap. Thanks to whoever suggested using a flashlight underneath the CV axle to shine up through the hole, I got it lined up in 3 minutes rather than spending days uncertain about it.
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Jul 18, 2020 19:11
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Just to make sure, the giant panel air filter behind the engine was a late '90s - early '00s thing, right? I've got the one year where they put both the old and new style in, and I'm finally replacing the secondary one behind the engine since I pulled it to reach the axle anyway. Definitely not because I accidentally ripped the who knows how old cardboard when pulling it, no sir. The thing is barely dirty after not replacing it since I bought the car in '09, really unnecessary but I'd feel weird not having it in there and I feel like the rubber gasket is probably required to get proper air seal in the filter box.
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Jul 20, 2020 03:10
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Now that it's well and truly retired, what's the final verdict on the EZ36 as far as reliability and robustness? I've been eyeing 2018-2019 Outback 3.6Rs as their prices have started to come down quite a bit. My buddy has a 2017 3.6R Limited that I've driven on road/ski trips and it's a pretty nice cruiser, but the 2018+ models have CarPlay support so I'd want that. I have a certain attraction to it as the last-of-its kind with the NA flat 6, plus it's just a drat practical car and pretty comfortable in Limited trim. Wouldn't mind saving $10k+ off a new one and avoiding the turbo.
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Jul 23, 2020 04:20
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It doesnt have the head gasket issues of the EZ30 due to a change in head gasket design. I should do a post on that to show just how insanely simple the fix was too. Otherwise.... honestly it seems to be pretty solid.
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Jul 23, 2020 04:26
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Speaking of CarPlay support...I got tired of the faceplate on my old head unit constantly flaking out on me after a dozen attempted repairs. I had used CarPlay in a rental car a few months ago and loved it, so much better than any other car GUI. So for my birthday I got myself a Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX. Yes I know it's ridiculous, but it was the only one I could find that had both wireless CarPlay and a tilting display (mounting location in a 98 outback is rather low). old and busted DEH-P4900iB from 2003. It only works with FireWire-based iPods unfortunately.  new wiring harness adapter all soldered and heatshrinked and twist+ziptied as best as possible to keep the spaghetti under control.  I ended up having to put it in and out like five times because I kept forgetting something. The last time it was because I forgot the FM antenna connection.  all buttoned up! mic on the steering column, GPS antenna on the dashboard corner to the right. parking brake/video interlock disabled because I'll play movies for my passengers on the highway if I want to dammit!  Haven't really had much time to play with it yet but so far it seems awesome as hell, sounds great with the subwoofer as well. yes I am aware of the absurd difference in tech level between the car itself and the stereo, that's just how I like it.
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Jul 23, 2020 13:19
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Speaking of CarPlay support...I got tired of the faceplate on my old head unit constantly flaking out on me after a dozen attempted repairs. I had used CarPlay in a rental car a few months ago and loved it, so much better than any other car GUI. So for my birthday I got myself a Pioneer AVH-W4400NEX. Yes I know it's ridiculous, but it was the only one I could find that had both wireless CarPlay and a tilting display (mounting location in a 98 outback is rather low). How well does CarPlay work when the screen is that low on the console, especially navigation? I've been contemplating on a more advanced headunit for my Forester and the DIN mount is fairly low on the console though not that low. I'm used to driving with Waze active so it doesn't seem ideal to have the display that low. I kind of do need it for the Forester since the speedo doesn't read accurately due to larger wheels so I've been depending on Waze to get my actual speed along with the current speed limit. I kind of actually want to get the stock navigation unit (ideally nonfunctional or as parts) and modify the shell and any mounting points to accept a head unit. I don't know how feasible that is since I don't know what kind of space I have to work with but that is the perfect spot for it. That said, the money I need to pour into the brakes has pushed that off for a while. It's going to be phone docks suction cupped onto the dash for a while.
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Jul 23, 2020 14:23
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Edward IV posted:How well does CarPlay work when the screen is that low on the console, especially navigation? I've been contemplating on a more advanced headunit for my Forester and the DIN mount is fairly low on the console though not that low. I'm used to driving with Waze active so it doesn't seem ideal to have the display that low. I kind of do need it for the Forester since the speedo doesn't read accurately due to larger wheels so I've been depending on Waze to get my actual speed along with the current speed limit. I kind of actually want to get the stock navigation unit (ideally nonfunctional or as parts) and modify the shell and any mounting points to accept a head unit. I don't know how feasible that is since I don't know what kind of space I have to work with but that is the perfect spot for it. I honestly like it better a little out of the way, especially at night having a big bright LCD right in the center of your vision is annoying as hell. I definitely appreciate that the display has a motorized tilt function to aim the screen upwards a little to compensate somewhat. It also helps a shitload with glare at certain times of day. I've really only had it installed for a day so maybe I'll be bitching about it in a month who knows. For now though it doesn't bother me at all.
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Jul 23, 2020 14:27
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Man... I have a ~2015 Pioneer with Appradio support, and the UI is pretty much identical when it's not in mirror mode (and nothing supports Appradio anymore, so...).
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Jul 23, 2020 20:01
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STR posted:Man... I have a ~2015 Pioneer with Appradio support, and the UI is pretty much identical when it's not in mirror mode (and nothing supports Appradio anymore, so...). Well exactly, in five years I’ll be surprised if Pioneer makes more than one or two firmware updates for the head unit itself, but CarPlay will be supported and updated for years to come. I’m actually looking forward to quite a few new features in iOS 14 this year. There’s also all the 3rd party apps that support CarPlay like google maps and Waze. I’ll never have to pay $100 for some map update DVD-ROM or suffer perpetually outdated navigation info. Even apps like telegram and NPR have CarPlay support. That’s why CarPlay is so much better than any built-in system, at least for me.
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Jul 24, 2020 04:54
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Yeah, my next head unit will definitely be CarPlay/Android Auto compatible. This one was $free$ though - roommate gave me this head unit when he traded in his old WRX, so long as I could "make it look like a working radio is in it". Me: just one? Hold my beer...  Had to fill a double DIN hole with... uh... well nothing on hand. I couldn't get the DIN pocket out of my car in time for him to get to the dealer (2nd gen Outbacks require quite a bit more dash disassembly to get the radio out), so I just slammed my factory radio and his old radio in there and didn't bother with any wiring (the wiring was hacked to hell). They only gave him $500 for the car anyway...  Somehow the bluetooth call quality is MILES better than the 2018 Kenwood I had in there before, despite being a 2015 model without aptX support. Added a MicroBypass so I wouldn't have to figure out the parking brake wiring. Wasn't wired on the WRX, which meant he couldn't even get into the drat setup menu to add a new phone. There's only one navigation app that still supports Appradio... and it can't handle the resolution my phone runs (2340 ×1080). The on-screen keyboard is beyond FUBAR, and you can't type it in on the phone itself... only via the radio. But the resolution difference throws it so far off. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 06:40
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STR posted:Yeah, my next head unit will definitely be CarPlay/Android Auto compatible. This one was $free$ though - roommate gave me this head unit when he traded in his old WRX, so long as I could "make it look like a working radio is in it". Me: just one? Hold my beer... Yeah it's ridiculous how easy it is to get the radio out of my 98, definitely glad that the display is removable. Definitely going to get my windows tinted ASAP to hopefully make it a little less obvious how much of the cars worth can be had for the price of a rock, a philips screwdriver, and a few minutes. Thankfully at home it's parked inside a locked garage in a nice area. I've got an extra OEM Subaru DIN pocket from my old setup if you really want it, I'd be willing to ship it for five bucks or something, or you could pick it up for free if you're anywhere near SF. STR posted:Somehow the bluetooth call quality is MILES better than the 2018 Kenwood I had in there before, despite being a 2015 model without aptX support. Added a MicroBypass so I wouldn't have to figure out the parking brake wiring. Wasn't wired on the WRX, which meant he couldn't even get into the drat setup menu to add a new phone. I actually bought a brake bypass to go with my AVH-4400NEX but it turns out I didn't need one at all! I just tied the parking brake switch signal wire to ground and on the "nothing playing" but not totally powered off screen you press and hold in the bottom-left corner of the display for 10 seconds. If it works you'll see a little "Set ON" appear for a couple seconds in the center. After doing that I can play videos straight from the SD card while moving and don't get any errors about GPS or parking brake wiring. What a ridiculous secret button combo! I'm curious if the same trick would work on yours. I also noticed the call/music audio quality is MILES better than it was with my old bluetooth adapter plugged into the aux-in jacks setup. There was also a bit of line noise that I could never seem to get rid of that's totally gone without all that extra audio cabling and analog input fuckery. If I had to guess the quality is so much better is because wireless CarPlay runs over WiFi instead of BT so the extra bandwidth lets Apple use a much, much better/higher bitrate audio codec. It also transitions to wired mode pretty nicely, when I plug in the phone while it's already connected wirelessly and playing music there's a 1 second audio pause but that's it. Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 11:26 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 11:21
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Hahah that's hilarious, I love the setup. That's actually shockingly similar to the original OEM setup in my Outback, there was a radio/tape player in the top slot and the bottom slot was ONLY a CD player. An entire DIN unit just to play a CD. I was not sad to see that radio go, especially once the clock backlight died. Terrible. Yep, my Legacy had the same setup. And the CD player died. And then a tape got jammed in the cassette deck and wouldn't play correctly, but it wouldn't disengage to let the radio play, so I had no tunes at all. Ended up buying a cheap double-DIN JVC CD player with Bluetooth. But then since it's a '93 Legacy I couldn't find a wiring harness to save my rear end, so I just bought some tiny spade connectors and basically made a custom one so I didn't have to hack into the factory harness. In 1993 I bet that system was fuckin' banger. But what a pile of jank now.
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Jul 24, 2020 17:53
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svxdc might still make harness adapters for the pre 95ish cars. I remember buying one from him back in the day for my 93 legacy and doing a bunch of soldering. http://ae64.com/ Related note I wouldn't mind a new headunit. I literally only need it to do bluetooth audio. Even a line in and volume dial and nothing else would be fine. And it has to have a screen I can dim or completely turn off. Oh or there's a car audio thread around here somewhere right?
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Jul 24, 2020 17:57
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My 96 Civic had an opposite setup - the head unit itself took CDs, and it had a DIN tape player under it.  Hugh G. Rectum posted:An entire DIN unit just to play a CD. I was not sad to see that radio go, especially once the clock backlight died. Terrible. I had to rip the tint off my front windows to get the car through our state inspection. They said visible light transmission was at 23% when the limit is 25%.  Face doesn't come off on mine, but my neighborhood is mostly full of beaters (my roommate by far has the nicest car on the street... 2016 Lexus). My car blends in with the neighborhood very well - it's almost all wagons, beat up trucks, and beater sedans. Roommate didn't even bother locking his WRX for over a year (partly bc one of the door switches was flaky, the alarm would go apeshit if he did lock it), with this stereo + two oldschool Cerwin Vega 12s in a ported box + Kicker amp in it (I have all of that too, tho the subs need new foam, and I need a wiring kit...).I have the cargo cover that so many Outbacks seem to be missing, so I'm not too worried about slamming the subs into mine. I have a ported box with a single Polk 12" in it too if I want to use that until I get around to rebuilding the CVs.
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Jul 24, 2020 18:01
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Hey y'all, I've been on the hunt for a new car for a year or so, and considering only like 5 commuter cars are made with standard transmissions these days, I've narrowed my choice pretty firmly down to a WRX. I'm also in love with the fact that I can still get a new car with almost none of the 2020 tech bullshit in the year 2020. I'm ruling out the STI for now -- I've always loved them, but I've spent the last decade daily driving a track-y car, and my bones have had enough. It's just not quite my deal anymore. I've got about 10 years of youth left before it's time to start looking at Buicks and Cadillacs. Until then, I may go to an autocross meet once or twice a year. As for right now, the brainstorming has pointed to a WRX Premium (with STI short shifter addon if stock doesn't satisfy.) Just subbin' in for any news regarding the rumored(?) 2021 refresh of the WRX, and whether or not it may be a good idea to wait on it. I'm in no immediate hurry to buy, but on the same note, I'm dying to get rid of this car. I've read that the new STI will finally leave the EJ series behind, but not much word on the WRX, aside from it probably moving to Subaru's universal chassis. That seems to be a good thing, but the implications concern me -- the lack of driver assists/tech jank in the 2020 WRX is perhaps my biggest "pro" with the car. I've never bought a new car before, so I don't know what kind of window I'd have to get a 2020 once the details of the 2021s emerge. enojy fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jul 24, 2020 |
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Jul 24, 2020 21:56
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Subaru doesn't seem committed to putting any of their assist technologies on manual transmission vehicles.
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Jul 24, 2020 22:23
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I did read that a Japanese publication is claiming the next WRX will also get the FA24DIT. That doesn't seem right to me unless they're planning on making the FA20DIT a JDM only engine. Details were vague so I'm considering it an unsubstantiated rumor until more details emerged. I do believe the FA24DIT for the STI has a forged bottom end, though, which is appealing to anyone chasing power, as the current WRX motor can handle maybe 350, but you still need to dump $5000 to get it there. For autocross you're going to be disappointed with the factory tune and suspension of the WRX. It desperately needs more rear spring rate and front camber. The factory tune rev hangs like crazy and torque peaks too early, leaving half the rev range feeling pretty flat. I lasted all of half a season before I ditched the factory class.
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Jul 24, 2020 22:35
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Yeah, one of the reason why I didn't pursue a 2019 more aggressively to replace my 2011 WRX is I just wasn't all that impressed with the test drive. The best way I could describe it is...messy. Rev overhang, lumpy power curve and just kinda not all that well sorted. These are all things that can be fixed if you are willing to put in the time/money, but it was a disappointing amount of polish that I really hope they fix moving forward with the new model. It's why I ultimately ended up with a Golf R (well that and the lack of hatch). I hope I can return to the WRX fold one day since I was an owner for nearly half my life (December 2001 - June 2019), but for now I'll ride out VW's 6 year bumper to bumper warranty. I'm just crossing my fingers that they don't gently caress up the new BRZ. I love mine and would love it even more with a bit more power and slightly better interior. But the new model better be as direct as the current model.
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Jul 24, 2020 23:04
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um excuse me posted:
I agree with the tune completely and I need to get an accessport for mine. The suspension problem is solved by getting a series.white. I have been very happy with it, and the last time I was happy with a Subaru's suspension was my old 2.5RS that was upgraded from stock. E: coincidentally, also my last white Subaru.
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Jul 25, 2020 00:15
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STR posted:I have the cargo cover that so many Outbacks seem to be missing, so I'm not too worried about slamming the subs into mine. I have a ported box with a single Polk 12" in it too if I want to use that until I get around to rebuilding the CVs. edit: $75 apparently, extremely tempting. it would definitely make me feel better knowing random passers-by can’t see the sub at all... Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jul 25, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2020 02:20
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Thanks! Ahh yes, rev hang! Thanks for the heads up. I read/watched a handful of reviews and nearly all of them mentioned it. I'm no stranger to rev hang, so my current idea is to just suck it up for the time being until I cave and get an Accessport. It doesn't look too dreadful in videos. My current car (07 Civic Si) also required a tune to mitigate it, and even still, it's kinda floaty. Admittedly, it's the strongest voice in my head saying, "go with the STI!" but that's not what my heart (or wallet!) is saying. I think I may have even grown to appreciate the 15 seconds I get to row between the lower gears. As for the flat spot in the power band, I'm planning to pay attention to that during a test drive, and assessing further afterwards. I've always dug myself into a hole with mods, so I'd like to keep it as simple as possible (e.g. Accessport, but otherwise stock.) I'm currently prioritizing daily comfort and reliability over chasing more power, but alas, no test drive impressions yet. If it feels fun to merge onto the highway, that would probably be fun enough for me. :P enojy fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Jul 25, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2020 03:06
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Got the old solid check engine light and blinking cruise control limp mode today when I got into the car for breakfast. Took it by a local shop to pull the code and they say the SECONDARY AIR INJECTION PUMP CHECK VALVE (sorry copy/paste caps) is stuck open. Reset the code and gave me a quote for $865 repair. Car seemed fine afterwards while driving. Is this an issue I need to address immediately? Cursory google search tells me it’s an emission gadget. Sorry 2016 sti with 50,000 miles
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Jul 25, 2020 15:21
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Wonderllama posted:Got the old solid check engine light and blinking cruise control limp mode today when I got into the car for breakfast. Took it by a local shop to pull the code and they say the SECONDARY AIR INJECTION PUMP CHECK VALVE (sorry copy/paste caps) is stuck open. Reset the code and gave me a quote for $865 repair. Car seemed fine afterwards while driving. Is this an issue I need to address immediately? That's a system used during startup to reduce emissions. A lot of people disable/remove the system.
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Jul 25, 2020 15:57
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tacopie posted:That's a system used during startup to reduce emissions. A lot of people disable/remove the system. Will an access port disbale the the code?
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Jul 25, 2020 16:28
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You can clear codes with the accessport, yes. However you can't disable the emissions system without a specific tune. Also note that clearing codes will erase ECU learning which is required to be present at the time of emissions testing, if your state applies, basically for the expressed purpose of catching codes one might want to erase.
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Jul 25, 2020 18:40
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um excuse me posted:You can clear codes with the accessport, yes. However you can't disable the emissions system without a specific tune. Yeah that’s a good point. Luckily my county in Tennessee does not do emissions testing. Really just kind of upset this is happening. I’ve been wanting an accessport so an excuse to get one is nice. And I want to be able to clear the codes without general battery fuckery (I can’t live without cruise control in my commute). The other option is paying $1,000+ to the dealership. Or just trading it in, but I’d like to wait for the new sti if possible.
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Jul 25, 2020 18:59
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Find a good independent shop, or DIY. Brand new, the pump is nearly $700 from most Subaru dealers. For that kind of price difference, I'd definitely go used (especially since it's a common failure). Or Dorman makes an aftermarket one for about $200. It looks like it's pretty easy to swap (and it looks like the valve might be part of the pump assembly?).
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Jul 25, 2020 19:49
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Wonderllama posted:Yeah that’s a good point. Luckily my county in Tennessee does not do emissions testing. Really just kind of upset this is happening. I’ve been wanting an accessport so an excuse to get one is nice. And I want to be able to clear the codes without general battery fuckery (I can’t live without cruise control in my commute). Isn't there an 8 year / 80,000 mile emission system warranty?
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Jul 25, 2020 20:46
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That's for major components. Generally speaking, catalytic converter, fuel injectors, and O2 sensors. Not much else. It's a federal mandate, every car maker does as much as they can to get the bare minimum covered. Certainly worth contacting the dealer to see if it'd be covered (if not, expect 2 hours of shop labor), but with the codes gone, they can't do anything as far as even pretending to diagnose. I've had nothing but bad experiences with the local Subaru dealer on even recall stuff (fuckers broke the airbag cover on the dash and tried to say it was like that already... no, it wasn't in multiple pieces, it also wasn't taped); their parts department is pretty good though, aside from a very hefty markup over Subaru MSRP. Had them order a gas cap today, subaru.com said MSRP was <$20. I got dinged for $24 + tax.  If I wasn't getting triggered by a CEL, I would have just snagged one on ebay.randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jul 25, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2020 21:05
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:It doesnt have the head gasket issues of the EZ30 due to a change in head gasket design. I should do a post on that to show just how insanely simple the fix was too. Don't leave us hanging, what was the fix?
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Jul 26, 2020 18:21
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Wonderllama posted:Got the old solid check engine light and blinking cruise control limp mode today when I got into the car for breakfast. Took it by a local shop to pull the code and they say the SECONDARY AIR INJECTION PUMP CHECK VALVE (sorry copy/paste caps) is stuck open. Reset the code and gave me a quote for $865 repair. Car seemed fine afterwards while driving. Is this an issue I need to address immediately? I'm in Canada but got a recall notice for this on my 2011 WRX a few years ago. Run the VIN and see if it's been fixed on yours? If not, see if the recall is valid and get it done. Recall notice said something about spontaneous fires...
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Jul 27, 2020 00:31
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Captain McAllister posted:I'm in Canada but got a recall notice for this on my 2011 WRX a few years ago. It’s been three days and it hasn’t happened again so I’m hoping it’s an outlier. But if it does I will most definitely see what I can do about any recalls or TSBs. Thanks everyone.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:35
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I’m having an issue getting my brakes to work right in my 05 Legacy GT. This winter I replaced the flex lines because they were old and I had new ones sitting around so why not. During replacement I accidentally let all the fluid flow out of the system into a drain pain. No worries, I was going to flush it anyway. Get everything back together and filled the reservoir and had my dad pump them while I bled them. Did it a lot and it got better but there was still air in it. The pedal would go almost to the floor, but you could pump it up until it felt OK. Letting it sit the pedal would get soft, then pumping it would get it firm again. Then I found a broken hard line that was leaking a little. Replaced that; I figured it was sucking air and causing the issue. After replacing the hard line and bleeding it again the symptoms were the same: after letting it sit, the pedal was very soft and went almost to the floor, but it could be pumped up. I bled the bejesus out of it (letting a whole reservoir full of fluid go through each line), same deal, then bled the master cylinder itself (took lines off the master cylinder, pushed pedal down, covered ports, released pedal, opened ports, and repeated 6 times), then bled the whole system again, same deal. Then I thought maybe there was air in the ABS pump somehow so I put it on the lift, wheeled it up to 40 mph and hit the brakes to trigger ABS. Then bled all the lines again. I didn’t see any air come out except maybe a little by one of the rears but it was very little if any. I don’t think there are any leaks anywhere because I can pump up the pedal, put a ton of pressure on it for ~5 minutes, and it doesn’t go down. My next attempt is to use a VAGcom cable and FreeSSM to try and activate the ABS pump properly then bleed them again. At least at this point the fluid coming out is so clean that I can just re-use it. All the calipers, pads, and rotors are fairly new. Any other ideas? It really acts like there is a tiny bit of air in it somewhere but I can’t get it out.
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Jul 29, 2020 14:38
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I would try re-bleeding the MC. The way I've bled a brake or clutch master cylinder is by routing a flexible hose from the port back into the reservoir, then pumping it until I don't get any more bubbles. You could also possibly do that with just one caliper open at a time, just slowly pump the brakes without closing the bleed port each time. That will let you flush a lot more fluid through the system and possibly get any air out of the MC or anything else without doing a full bench bleed.
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Jul 29, 2020 15:40
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