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harperdc posted:I think he's talking about buying the gear and then renting it out himself to others, not paying to borrow from a site like LensRentals. red19fire posted:I’ve read enough horror stories about kitsplit and sharegrid that I wouldn’t trust a complete stranger to rent my gear without 100% collateral. I do rent out my stuff to colleagues who shoot for commercial clients because they pass the cost along and I know they’re not just going to disappear with it, and they have insurance in case it gets destroyed. DJExile posted:Oh whoops. I'm definitely not intending to build lens equity or anything but just seeing if there's a practical way to recover some of the costs and talk myself into getting more expensive poo poo than I could justify otherwise.
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Jul 11, 2020 19:10
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I always laugh when I see people trying to sell 7 year old Canon Rebels for $600 while people selling similarly aged 60d/70d or 7d bodies are asking $2-300. That said, lenses maintain their value surprisingly well assuming they're not replaced with something much better or their system goes out of production.
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Jul 11, 2020 19:16
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I always laugh when I see people trying to sell 7 year old Canon Rebels for $600 while people selling similarly aged 60d/70d or 7d bodies are asking $2-300. I sold my 60D and 18-135mm for $200 total the other month, it seemed fair enough for how old it is now.
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Jul 11, 2020 20:57
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Just think of buying a lens as long term rental. That 70-200 2.8? It's gonna cost $100 a week to rent. Buy it up front, use it for a year, then sell it? It was $7.70 a week! Or hang on to it forever because that lens owns. But the point is still valid.
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Jul 11, 2020 21:02
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I rent my gear out on occasion, but it’s always business related to people I know who also have rented equipment insurance. I’d be curious how much market there is for just a specific body — usually I’m renting to people because they know I have a lot of gear and need something relatively specialized. Kitsplit or sharegrid could change that, I’m assuming, but I don’t know what potential pitfalls there would be there. It’s definitely nice to pick up the extra money, but it’s in a business context so the calculus is probably a little different.
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Jul 11, 2020 21:22
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xzzy posted:Just think of buying a lens as long term rental. That 70-200 2.8? It's gonna cost $100 a week to rent. Buy it up front, use it for a year, then sell it? It was $7.70 a week! Or just buy vintage Leica gear and it will pay you while using it.
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Jul 12, 2020 09:39
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Or just buy vintage Leica gear and it will pay you while using it. Yeah, vintage camera gear has done really well. If you bargain hunt in the first place you probably won’t take much of a hit and I’ve got gear that is now worth 2x what I paid for it. Same goes for even high-quality digital lenses tbh - buy used and let someone else take the first big depreciation and it isn’t going to go down too much. Like maybe 5-10% over the course of 5 years. Digital bodies and consumer lenses depreciate fast, and “the best” digital lenses do depreciate quick if there is a newer better one released. Stuff that is premium professional lenses but a generation or two behind the latest tend to retain value the best.
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Jul 13, 2020 10:23
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Not great for Canon - https://petapixel.com/2020/07/23/ap-photographers-will-only-shoot-sony-from-now-on/
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Jul 25, 2020 00:51
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Thom12255 posted:Not great for Canon - https://petapixel.com/2020/07/23/ap-photographers-will-only-shoot-sony-from-now-on/ tbh gently caress canon, they are a classic example of "if you don't disrupt your own product stack then someone else will do it for you". They wanted to sell $100k cine cameras and just sat on their rear end while Sony turned mirrorless into a viable prosumer option, then better than Canon's cameras at manual-focus and cine use-cases, and then just better than their cameras at everything. Sony doesn't give a poo poo, an A7ii is basically what would have been a $50k cine camera 8 years ago but better in most ways, for $999 at costco. It's not their revenue stream they're blowing up. See also, the same that is Canon's reaction to Magic Lantern and CHDK. Letting hackers run loose on your camera and see what it can do is basically the best thing that could happen, they should have dumped staff onto that and make sure everything was hooked up properly. But it threatened their cine camera business so gently caress em. Falling behind on sensors, and sensor shake tables, and everything else, was just the icing on the cake.
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Jul 25, 2020 01:54
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Thom12255 posted:Not great for Canon - https://petapixel.com/2020/07/23/ap-photographers-will-only-shoot-sony-from-now-on/ the question isn't how many Sony bodies they'll send but how many Sony lenses. Looks like there's gonna be a rush on Canon to Sony E adapters.
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Jul 25, 2020 01:57
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Speaking of, I've not been keeping up with digital camera gear in the last few years and want to replace and upgrade my ageing 50D. What's good in full frame these days? I am thinking mirrorless so I can adapt my medium format primes and get focus peaking in viewfinder. I'm willing to dump my Canon EF/EF-S lenses for a new system if that's what's good. I'm shooting landscapes while hiking and taking pictures of my dog, and the dog doesn't stay still long enough for manual focus so I'll pick up at least one or two AF lenses. I live in Norway and take pictures outdoors so weatherproofing is a concern - my 50D still works fine on wet snowy hikes and a -20C and that would be nice to match. I was looking at buying a Canon EOS R new, to give you an idea of my budget, but it seemed like the reviewers were a bit unimpressed with it. I'm OK to buy used although the market for it isn't great here. e: I'm also not in a huge rush so if there's some new hotness coming out in a few months that's worth waiting for, I'll wait. big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 03:51 on Jul 25, 2020 |
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Jul 25, 2020 03:40
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big scary monsters posted:Speaking of, I've not been keeping up with digital camera gear in the last few years and want to replace and upgrade my ageing 50D. What's good in full frame these days? I am thinking mirrorless so I can adapt my medium format primes and get focus peaking in viewfinder. I'm willing to dump my Canon EF/EF-S lenses for a new system if that's what's good. I'm shooting landscapes while hiking and taking pictures of my dog, and the dog doesn't stay still long enough for manual focus so I'll pick up at least one or two AF lenses. I live in Norway and take pictures outdoors so weatherproofing is a concern - my 50D still works fine on wet snowy hikes and a -20C and that would be nice to match. I was looking at buying a Canon EOS R new, to give you an idea of my budget, but it seemed like the reviewers were a bit unimpressed with it. I'm OK to buy used although the market for it isn't great here. I took my A7R3 on an 8-day mountaineering expedition seminar in Alaska (camped on a glacier for the entire duration of the trip, large temperature variations and high humidity) and it had zero issues. I didn't even have to change batteries. My only minor complaint about the camera is that with certain lenses it will introduce a circular color noise (https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/62760977) which I have only managed to make disappear when I cover the contacts of the lens (even though I was shooting raw, uncompressed, with all lens corrections off, the latest firmware, even when ETTR by 3 stops). To be fair, this issue is only visible in strongly monochromatic settings (such as on a glacier in Alaska), and even then, converting the impacted image to black and white is a solution that makes the problem go away.
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Jul 25, 2020 04:13
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I just took the plunge to own some camera gear and felt I did a decent job bringing a kit for short documentaries/event shooting together - until today when I couldn't understand why my sweet (heavy) new Sigma art lens wouldn't change aperture on my GH5. I didn't realise electronic aperture control would be a problem when I thought I got a good deal on an adapter, whoops. Maybe the most Stupid Newbie I've been in a while. I either sell the lens (18-35mm I bought for £400) or find a good deal on a speedbooster with aperture control, a cursory glance from reviewers seem to recommend Viltrox and there's one I can afford on ebay (metabones is way too expensive). Opinions on cheap speedboosters, or recommendations for a m4/3 lens with decent zoom for event shoots?
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Jul 26, 2020 04:50
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BisonDollah posted:I just took the plunge to own some camera gear and felt I did a decent job bringing a kit for short documentaries/event shooting together - until today when I couldn't understand why my sweet (heavy) new Sigma art lens wouldn't change aperture on my GH5. I didn't realise electronic aperture control would be a problem when I thought I got a good deal on an adapter, whoops. Maybe the most Stupid Newbie I've been in a while. I either sell the lens (18-35mm I bought for £400) or find a good deal on a speedbooster with aperture control, a cursory glance from reviewers seem to recommend Viltrox and there's one I can afford on ebay (metabones is way too expensive). That Sigma (the 18-35mm F/1.8, right?) is meant for APS-C sensors, so putting it on a speedbooster meant to adapt full-frame EF lenses to M43 would likely result in the image circle not completely covering the sensor.
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Jul 26, 2020 17:58
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big scary monsters posted:Speaking of, I've not been keeping up with digital camera gear in the last few years and want to replace and upgrade my ageing 50D. What's good in full frame these days? I am thinking mirrorless so I can adapt my medium format primes and get focus peaking in viewfinder. I'm willing to dump my Canon EF/EF-S lenses for a new system if that's what's good. I'm shooting landscapes while hiking and taking pictures of my dog, and the dog doesn't stay still long enough for manual focus so I'll pick up at least one or two AF lenses. I live in Norway and take pictures outdoors so weatherproofing is a concern - my 50D still works fine on wet snowy hikes and a -20C and that would be nice to match. I was looking at buying a Canon EOS R new, to give you an idea of my budget, but it seemed like the reviewers were a bit unimpressed with it. I'm OK to buy used although the market for it isn't great here. https://www.dpreview.com/news/4020779815/the-canon-eos-r6-is-the-r5-for-the-masses I would definitely put it on the shortlist and wait for the full reviews to come in.
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Jul 26, 2020 18:18
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Pablo Bluth posted:Canon have just announced the R6. It's basically the guts of the 1DX III but in a 'normal style' body, at more or less the same price point at the R (EOS R was $2399 at launch, the R6 will be $2499). It's "only" 20MP (The R is 30) but in just about all respects it's looking like a seriously good camera. theHUNGERian posted:I took my A7R3 on an 8-day mountaineering expedition seminar in Alaska (camped on a glacier for the entire duration of the trip, large temperature variations and high humidity) and it had zero issues. I didn't even have to change batteries. I think I need to go to a shop and pick some cameras up once the R6 comes out next month.
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Jul 26, 2020 19:01
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BeastOfExmoor posted:That Sigma (the 18-35mm F/1.8, right?) is meant for APS-C sensors, so putting it on a speedbooster meant to adapt full-frame EF lenses to M43 would likely result in the image circle not completely covering the sensor. Can you explain what you mean? Is this something most reviewers of a GH5/speedbooster/Sigma 18-35mm F/1.8 setup would miss? Excuse the YouTuber link as easiest one I could find - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJkVAhKv3y4
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Jul 26, 2020 20:20
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big scary monsters posted:
The Z5 might be worth a look at too. I was expecting Nikon to remove stabilization to separate it from the Z6/Z7 but they did not. As long as you can live with a more moderate fps it's a pretty good deal. FWIW, I've owned and shot with A7, A7II, A7RII, and have briefly used A7RIII. I like what people do with the Sony cameras and they are clearly technically capable. And I haven't had one break on me. But still, it doesn't come close to the "this thing just works" feeling I've gotten from my Nikon and Canon gear. Hard to put a finger on exactly what it is, but I think it's the general feel that things are a bit more solid, buttons a little bigger and have a more tactile feel, dials feeling more rugged etc. Basically I would not feel comfortable taking a Sony body out for a hike in crap weather, or on a longer trip as an only camera. But that's just, like, my opinion, man.
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Jul 26, 2020 20:29
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BisonDollah posted:Can you explain what you mean? Is this something most reviewers of a GH5/speedbooster/Sigma 18-35mm F/1.8 setup would miss? Ok, I had to run through the specs sheet on Metabones site to figure out if I went wrong here. It looks like they have two versions of their Speedbooster for M43, a 0.73x and 0.64x. The 0.71x M43 version will apparently work with both lenses intended for full-frame and APS-C (aka crop) sensors, but if you use the 0.64x with a lens built for APS-C you'd have the issue I spoke of. Looks like the Viltrox is a clone of the 0.71x version so I think you'd be fine. This video with that lens on M43 seems to confirm it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vuC_HSekQ4 To go back to your initial question, it looks like speedboosters are apparently only slightly more expensive than the standard adapter with auto-focus/IS/aperture control, so the downsides are just that some people experience sharpness issues with Viltrox with some or all lenses. That said, you said you're using it for video and any sharpness issues will probably be less obvious than with still photos, if they exist at all. If you've watched some footage with that setup on a M43 camera and are happy with it I'd say go for it.
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Jul 26, 2020 21:29
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I have an X-T2 with camera grip, a 23mm f/2, and a 16-55mm with lens hood. I'm looking for a decent shoulder bag or sling to hold these, plus a 50-140mm f/2.8 or something comparable, which I might get in the next couple years. Are there any brands -- or better yet, specific models -- that I should know to look for or stay away from? My budget is $100 or slightly over, and I'm hoping I can get it from Precision Camera so I can pick it up this week or early next week, with minimal wait or time in the store (what with the COVID). I think I want to stay away from full backpacks as this is mainly for taking on hikes, and I'd like to bring a separate backpack for snacks and such.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:52
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Bought my first DSLR yesterday (Rebel t7 with the kit lens and the 75-300mm lens) and was wondering about extension tubes. I'd definitely like a macro lens at some point for all-important things like capturing pictures of random insects in my garden and toe beans from the cats, but I'm very much in "can't spend more money on new glass for a while" mode. I was looking at something like this to try out for doing macro shots. Worst case scenario it's only $10 wasted, but does anyone have an opinion on this sort of product? https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Canon-Extension-Extreme-Close-Ups/dp/B003Y60DZO
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Jul 29, 2020 18:02
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Clayton Bigsby posted:The Z5 might be worth a look at too. I was expecting Nikon to remove stabilization to separate it from the Z6/Z7 but they did not. As long as you can live with a more moderate fps it's a pretty good deal. For me the keeper rate is significantly higher with my Sony a7iii than my 5d mk2 and 7d. The eye AF is just so drat good.
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Jul 29, 2020 18:03
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ExplodingChef posted:Bought my first DSLR yesterday (Rebel t7 with the kit lens and the 75-300mm lens) and was wondering about extension tubes. I'd definitely like a macro lens at some point for all-important things like capturing pictures of random insects in my garden and toe beans from the cats, but I'm very much in "can't spend more money on new glass for a while" mode. Extension rings work fine. There's a small learning curve, but it's the same way you get macro-level magnification on Hasselblads and plenty of other super-pro setups. Excepting for some corner cases in optical design (and then mostly at the super-serious high end), all a "macro" lens has that a "non-macro" lens doesn't is an extra-long helical coil, so the extension rings let you pre-supply that length. I'm not sure if the T7 keeps you from using non-electronically-coupled lenses, though; you should check. Be prepared to go all-manual on the lens side (the body should still do a lot of compensation for you; don't worry). The 49mm of extension that lens gives you will get you *really* close to 1/1 at the 55mm end of your kit lens (i.e. "the projection on your sensor is the same size as real life") and quite a bit beyond on the 18mm side, so you'll have more macro range than you can shake a stick at. Just go out early in the morning when the insects are still sluggish, and hope the cats stay still.
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Jul 29, 2020 18:34
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That adapter doesn't have electrical contacts so the camera can't communicate with and control the lens. There will be no autofocus (some lenses may not be able to focus at all) and there will be no aperture control (though you may be able to set the aperture when you take it off the camera with the dof preview button). Extension tubes work best on wide angle lenses (more dynamic backgrounds, effectively lowers the aperture). You can also get close up filters that work better on telephoto lenses (more working distance, no change in image brightness, extra optics will degrade image quality).
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Jul 29, 2020 18:44
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This set apparently includes the electrical pins that will allow you to auto-focus and control aperture. https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Metal-Macro-Extension-Colorful/dp/B0179QXC0C/
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Jul 29, 2020 19:49
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If you want to screw around with macro stuff you can also get bellows units for pretty cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-macro-bellows-Canon-Cameras/dp/B003EDTG8W I have a M42 one from the 70s and with a 50mm lens I can get better than 5:1 magnification. You'll need to do everything manually of course but there's nothing else that's as cheap and flexible. e: here you go, pictures with a 50mm lens on my bellows unit at the short and long ends of its range. It's a full-frame camera so I guess closer to 3:1 magnification with that lens. Shorter lenses give more magnification at a given extension, but also need to be physically closer to the subject and have all the regular wide/tele tradeoffs.   Note the extraordinarily tiny depth of field in the close image (that is f/8) --- the blur is because I had the camera at about a 10 degree angle to the ruler. In order to get that image at all I had to put the whole camera on a focusing rail. All sorts of fun new stuff to deal with when you get into macro 
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 23:08
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Cognac McCarthy posted:I have an X-T2 with camera grip, a 23mm f/2, and a 16-55mm with lens hood. I'm looking for a decent shoulder bag or sling to hold these, plus a 50-140mm f/2.8 or something comparable, which I might get in the next couple years. Are there any brands -- or better yet, specific models -- that I should know to look for or stay away from? My budget is $100 or slightly over, and I'm hoping I can get it from Precision Camera so I can pick it up this week or early next week, with minimal wait or time in the store (what with the COVID). I think I want to stay away from full backpacks as this is mainly for taking on hikes, and I'd like to bring a separate backpack for snacks and such. Do you really want to carry two bags? I bet you won't if you're hiking. I really like my Tenba, maybe an insert for your existing backpack? [no clue if that one fits what you're imagining, they have multiple sizes].
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Jul 29, 2020 23:21
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qirex posted:Do you really want to carry two bags? I bet you won't if you're hiking. I really like my Tenba, maybe an insert for your existing backpack? [no clue if that one fits what you're imagining, they have multiple sizes]. This is good to consider, thanks. In the past I haven't really minded carrying two bags, other than the fact that my current small camera bag totally sucks rear end and doesn't rest against my body well; it bounces around and the weight distribution makes it wobble awkwardly with every step, and it's just slightly too small for my current stuff. My backpack is a relatively small fjallraven thing that I rarely need to access, so having a small-ish shoulder bag that can sit on the front of my torso or at my hip isn't really a problem.
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Jul 30, 2020 00:45
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Sagebrush posted:If you want to screw around with macro stuff you can also get bellows units for pretty cheap: That’s the poo poo right there. Bellows are awesome.
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Jul 30, 2020 03:41
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I’ve got a Minolta bellows III kicking around and an adapter for my a7ii. I really need to get that thing out and have some fun. Need a focus rail though.
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Jul 30, 2020 03:43
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Sagebrush posted:If you want to screw around with macro stuff you can also get bellows units for pretty cheap: Oh. Wow. I can't believe I didn't know about these, thanks. I'm surprised they're so inexpensive and will probably invest in one to take some weird shots. The support shafts look like, maybe I shouldn't hook up my big chungus Sigma 150-600 to it. But I am curious what kind of pictures of my cats' noses I can get with my 50mm, or what kind of weird poo poo I could get with say, a fisheye lens. Also, lmao: On the opposite end of the cost spectrum, there is this directly for the Nikon Z mount, at the cool price of $999. Mister Speaker fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 04:04
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Some bellows allow you to do focal plane movements too, like you see on large format cameras.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:15
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Munkaboo posted:For me the keeper rate is significantly higher with my Sony a7iii than my 5d mk2 and 7d. The eye AF is just so drat good. The Nikon Z series also have eye AF, don't they? Or is it just not very good compared with Sony's?
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Jul 30, 2020 11:55
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I don’t think they’re to Sony’s level yet, but also the 5dii’s autofocus wasn’t amazing even when it came out like 12 years ago.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:50
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Are there filters I can add to a lens that will soften the bokeh "rings" from a 10-blade aperture enough to make it appear more round? Also, are there filters that will transfer some of the bokeh ring's intensity to the outer edge of the bokeh ring?
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Aug 2, 2020 21:41
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theHUNGERian posted:Are there filters I can add to a lens that will soften the bokeh "rings" from a 10-blade aperture enough to make it appear more round? You can put a circular hood on that covers the edges of the lens on you'll get a huge vignette at larger apertures but it makes the bokeh balls look like this.  This is with the hood for my mp-e65 on my Canon 100mm macro, messing around with sunset light filtering through a hedge.
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Aug 2, 2020 23:06
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Yeah, I am aware of that trick, and it might even work in the long term. I was hoping for one filter that works at multiple apertures, but perhaps that would defy the laws of physics or have other compromises. What about the second question, modifying the bokeh balls so that there is a solid higher intensity ring out the outer edge?
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Aug 3, 2020 00:13
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My 105mm macro lens, a manual-focus Vivitar Series 1 (i.e. before the brand became a synonym for cheap eBay junk) 105/2.8 that can happily do 1:1, no longer focuses at infinity. I used to get some really nice pictures of landscapes, middle-distance birds, etc. but now anything more than 3-4 metres away is just a little bit out of focus. Does anybody have any ideas what could cause a lens to lose infinity focus? Is there a way to repair this?
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Aug 3, 2020 03:35
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ExecuDork posted:My 105mm macro lens, a manual-focus Vivitar Series 1 (i.e. before the brand became a synonym for cheap eBay junk) 105/2.8 that can happily do 1:1, no longer focuses at infinity. I used to get some really nice pictures of landscapes, middle-distance birds, etc. but now anything more than 3-4 metres away is just a little bit out of focus. so, you can't focus on infinity but can focus sharply at any distance before that? The lens just won't turn out to infinity? or when you go towards infinity suddenly the image just starts to be in and out of focus randomly? the former could just be your lens infinity stop slipping a little bit for some reason (don't slam it hard into the stops intentionally). This is usually easy and basically just there will be a screw hidden on the inside or outside near the focus ring. Or, maybe a piece of grit somewhere in the helicoids is jamming it up. The latter is an optical problem with the lens, hopefully it is just a lens group that has slipped loose or something, but it could potentially be bad, and you'd probably want to send it to at least a shadetree mechanic who has worked on lenses before. The worst-case scenario would be something like a group that has come uncemented and at that point it's probably a writeoff. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 04:00
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Paul MaudDib posted:so, you can't focus on infinity but can focus sharply at any distance before that? The lens just won't turn out to infinity? Paul MaudDib posted:could just be your lens infinity stop slipping a little bit for some reason (don't slam it hard into the stops intentionally). This is usually easy and basically just there will be a screw hidden on the inside or outside near the focus ring. Or, maybe a piece of grit somewhere in the helicoids is jamming it up. It makes sense that the infinity stop got banged up, I try not to slam it into the stops but this lens goes with me everywhere (it's my favourite) and inevitably my camera and my lenses get tossed around a bit. Paul MaudDib posted:you'd probably want to send it to at least a shadetree mechanic who has worked on lenses before.
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Aug 4, 2020 01:16
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