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Does Quickjack actually say not to work under the vehicle? That's slightly insane. I've been tempted by them a bunch of times, but I have various reservations like speed of setup vs floor jack and 4 stands, mostly. The other big one is having no side-access under the car. It'd be extremely annoying to have to get under the car from the front or back when doing something like shifter linkages, fuel/brake lines/whatever. Also annoying if you need a different angle for leverage.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 03:12 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 15:00 |
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Every video I've ever seen of Quickjacks shows the safety "stands" - there are metal bars that drop down to lock the whole thing in place. Once those are lined up, you lower the car back down onto them, similar to how you would lower a lift onto the locks. I've never heard of them saying not to work under a car on them, because what would the loving point of them be otherwise? I could maybe see them not being ideal if you're dropping something large out of the center of the vehicle.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 03:46 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Every video I've ever seen of Quickjacks shows the safety "stands" - there are metal bars that drop down to lock the whole thing in place. Once those are lined up, you lower the car back down onto them, similar to how you would lower a lift onto the locks. My quickjacks definitely have the locking bar. It's automatically in place as you raise them and you have to turn the shoe to the other side to lower them. Every time it goes over one of the latches it moves to the side that keeps them from going down. I'll admit to possibly not reading every last word in the assembly/instruction manual, but I sure as hell don't remember seeing anything about not working under them. That would be absurd levels of lawyerdom. They are not fast to set up. They are not convenient to set up. They don't fit on everything......you'd need multiple sizes (which they sell by weights largely). I still use jacks and stands a lot. But sometimes they are just the right thing if you're not a lift-haver. And even though I will be a lift haver, I bought these anyway to throw in the car trailer, etc. for doing this poo poo away from home.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 04:00 |
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Literally been working under mine all day. See the latches. Make sure they are in place and take the weight before you get under. But I do concur, they take a few minutes to set up which is a little awkward if you have limited space against a wall and they don't fit everything, but I do like it for what it is.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 04:42 |
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I'd say that they take less time to set up than it takes to jack up all four corners. Also have fun jacking up modern cars where everything is covered in panels except the small jacking points which makes it impossible to use factory approved jacking points and fit a jackstand as well. Pretty much the biggest reason that I bought mine. Annoyingly they don't fit my new car, but if I put them perpendicular to the car they work. Benefits of having a PHEV is that the battery in the back gives it a better weight distribution. I need to get the extensions sometime though, but sourcing some parts in Europe is a bit of a nightmare. Edit: Seems like it's a bit better now, but the prices still hurt my soul. Worth it in the end though, will have to order before it's time for winter tires. I use my quickjack on gravel with two thick plywood board under (as recommended by Quickjack) and it's solid. I mean a proper lift is better, but if you can't have that and also can't fit big cars in your garage, this is the next best thing. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jul 27, 2020 |
# ? Jul 27, 2020 09:23 |
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The not working under thing is one of those legalese arse covering things. I agree with the side access thing and I am still going to need to use a jack and stands for getting the trans crossmember and srove shaft in and out.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 10:39 |
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What's the best bang for the buck laser distance tool that can do 100ft?
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 14:51 |
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Probably Bosch, they're the best in the field of construction related laser thingies.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 15:03 |
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Biggest issue I have with the Quickjack is that they are fairly bulky (really no way around that) and one side of the car is only about 1.5' from the wall which makes it awkward to get on the ground and maneuver in place. Rhyno posted:What's the best bang for the buck laser distance tool that can do 100ft?
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 15:25 |
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I can't believe your not "supposed" to work under your car with a $1000 lift. Do they come with spots to place jack stands or something? For the price not having to worry about the car falling on you should be a mandatory feature.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 15:35 |
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um excuse me posted:I can't believe your not "supposed" to work under your car with a $1000 lift. Do they come with spots to place jack stands or something? For the price not having to worry about the car falling on you should be a mandatory feature. As described, they have automatic locking clamps on the sides. When used properly the car is not suspended on hydraulics when it's at rest.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 16:22 |
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Motronic posted:As described, they have automatic locking clamps on the sides. When used properly the car is not suspended on hydraulics when it's at rest. BigPaddy posted:My Quickjacks should be here Wednesday so we will see how that goes. They state you shouldn’t use them to do work under the car but hey can’t be worse than jack stands. I was going based on this post.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 16:33 |
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Ok so, when I was looking around there was some FAQ about not going under the car with them. I can’t find it so I likely took it out of context or it is no longer applicable. I endorse this product and or service.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 16:40 |
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It was likely 'don't get under the car without the locking arm in place' which is pretty reasonable.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 16:53 |
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slidebite posted:Biggest issue I have with the Quickjack is that they are fairly bulky (really no way around that) and one side of the car is only about 1.5' from the wall which makes it awkward to get on the ground and maneuver in place. My quickjacks are still here Because I realistically don't have enough space to use them in my garage I could make it work if I had to, but it would be a huge loving hassle to actually get around a car on them.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 17:07 |
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Looks like I'm going to be doing a home "improvement" project of an accent wall in the bedroom. I could nail the maybe 100 feet of lumber to the wall with a hammer or I could buy a battery powered finish/brad(?) nailgun. Currently I have the Porter-Cable 18v battery drill and impact, it looks like their tool only nailer is almost $200 which seems crazy. Any suggestions or thoughts on battery nailguns for light DIY usage? Might just swing a hammer.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 19:33 |
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When I first bought my home I got a Bostitch pancake air compressor and a WEN Brad nailer. The compressor comes in handy for all sorts of other stuff so I saw it as worth it.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 19:47 |
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I assume the QuickJacks aren't meant to be driven over at all? I feel like if you could just kind of park them where they need to live and then drive the car over them so the Jacks are between the tires that would go pretty far to resolve the "pain in the rear end to move around" aspect.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 20:19 |
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I did similar, I got a combo pancake compressor with a Brad nailer and a finish nailer. Now I have a source of compressed air for tires, using a sheet metal punch, blowing dust around (don't do that), and I used it to blow up a beach ball last week. I swear it's more useful than that... I just can't remember. I've used it to nail trim, build corn hole boards, and hang cleats for shelving.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 20:19 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:I assume the QuickJacks aren't meant to be driven over at all? I feel like if you could just kind of park them where they need to live and then drive the car over them so the Jacks are between the tires that would go pretty far to resolve the "pain in the rear end to move around" aspect. You can’t drive on them, but they come with little handles so you can slide them together to the center, drive in, and pull them out to between the wheels.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 20:52 |
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It'll be useful when you decide to redo your fence. Like I'm doing.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 21:09 |
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Also recommending the pancake compressor and air nailer. I bought the $55 Harbor Freight 3gal to pair with a cheap 18ga brad nailer, and it's been great for all the random projects that involve pulling and installing trim. The compressor is annoying as poo poo when it runs, so if you want something quieter maybe look at California Air or one of the more expensive HF compressors. The 1gal Fortress would be plenty for occasional use for home projects, I imagine.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 21:21 |
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Hmm...would the pancake compressors like ya'll have been recommending also be good enough to blow out a 0.16 acre lots worth of sprinkler lines (that are divided into 4 zones)? I'm in Oregon so probably don't even need to blow out the lines for winter but it'd give me another reason to keep a compressor around.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 21:36 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Hmm...would the pancake compressors like ya'll have been recommending also be good enough to blow out a 0.16 acre lots worth of sprinkler lines (that are divided into 4 zones)? I'm in Oregon so probably don't even need to blow out the lines for winter but it'd give me another reason to keep a compressor around. Yes, but it's gonna be slow. You'll need to let the tank fill completely and dump it into the lines at once a few times.
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# ? Jul 27, 2020 21:38 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Hmm...would the pancake compressors like ya'll have been recommending also be good enough to blow out a 0.16 acre lots worth of sprinkler lines (that are divided into 4 zones)? I'm in Oregon so probably don't even need to blow out the lines for winter but it'd give me another reason to keep a compressor around. I plumbed a 1/4" air fitting behind a brass ball valve just for this use case when I re-did my outdoor faucets. I would look at a 3-5gal California Air tools compressor. If you can wait, black friday is just around the corner. I'm in Oregon myself.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 00:13 |
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Thanks for all the info, I'll see where the project and tool buying desires take me from here.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 00:15 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Hmm...would the pancake compressors like ya'll have been recommending also be good enough to blow out a 0.16 acre lots worth of sprinkler lines (that are divided into 4 zones)? I'm in Oregon so probably don't even need to blow out the lines for winter but it'd give me another reason to keep a compressor around. Read my earlier posts over the last couple pages. Look for a used high CFM gas job and it'll laugh at blowing out your sprinklers. You *can* use a smaller one, but then you are literally just using the air saved in the tank and the pump will never stop. I actually kept tripping the thermal on my old little one when I tried using it last year. It'll work, but it'll take a long time. fknlo posted:My quickjacks are still here As mentioned, put them together, push them close and drive over them. They are literally always on the floor with my 996 parked over top. e: But yeah, setting them up on the right side would be a royal PITA for you, for sure. slidebite fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Jul 28, 2020 |
# ? Jul 28, 2020 00:31 |
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I've used a harbor freight 8 gallon to blow out my 10 zone sprinkler system the past few years. It works fine but it takes about an hour before I'm satisfied that the job is done (about two cycles per zone after they stop blowing water).
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 00:47 |
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slidebite posted:As mentioned, put them together, push them close and drive over them. They are literally always on the floor with my 996 parked over top. I was going to do this but decided it's probably easier to leave them in the box for future moving purposes. I bought them specifically because I have that lovely tandem garage and decided they'd realistically still be too much of a hassle to use in it after I got them in.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 00:53 |
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They're probably easier to move out of the box tbh.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 01:02 |
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fknlo posted:tandem garage Really, you should've bought a four post stacker lift. But you're moving, so that's irrelevant now.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 02:25 |
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I'm late for responding to quickjackchat, but I'm here to admit that I can get any of my FWD cars up on 4 stands in ~3 minutes by throwing the floor jack under the pinch weld with a 2' 2x4. I lift an entire side at a time and it leaves the jacking points open. Line up about inline with the steering wheel and check that the doors open after a few pumps with the floor jack to make sure nothing is deflecting and I think my lovely fast and loose method is probably why I've been waffling on buying quickjacks for so long.
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# ? Jul 28, 2020 18:40 |
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Hypnolobster posted:I'm late for responding to quickjackchat, but I'm here to admit that I can get any of my FWD cars up on 4 stands in ~3 minutes by throwing the floor jack under the pinch weld with a 2' 2x4. I lift an entire side at a time and it leaves the jacking points open. Line up about inline with the steering wheel and check that the doors open after a few pumps with the floor jack to make sure nothing is deflecting and Care to post a picture? I’m in a similar boat on waffling on getting a set of QuickJacks and wouldn’t mind an alternative. Basically you’ve cut a channel in the 2x4 and lift the car from the middle?
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 00:11 |
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I do something similar. My 2x4 is only about a foot long. A 2x4 won't distribute weight much past that anyways because it will flex. If you wanted to run the entire length of the rocker panel, you'd need a 4x6 minimum. Anyways, I lift the car on the front jacking point only to lift the entire side of the car, place 2 stands, then lower the car onto the stands, and then do the opposite side. Two things to note with this sort of lift. I use the front jacking point because my cars weight distribution is 61/39 front bias (it's awful, but it's what makes a Subaru a Subaru!). The weight is evenly split on the front jacking point. The other thing to note is that you need to place the jack so that it won't get in the way of the front jackstand when you need to place the car onto it.
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 01:16 |
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I need a jack tall enough to lift my truck. Are HF jacks going to murder me?
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 04:11 |
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Nope. The Daytona jacks are arguably the best deal on the planet for floor jacks right now.
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 04:32 |
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Yeah I got one of these and it works great getting the Scout off the ground. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-long-reach-low-profile-professional-rapid-pump-floor-jack-orange-64241.html Course I still have to lift it on the diff. Worst thing about 35s
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 04:58 |
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Costco has some awesome high-lift trolley jacks from time to time too.
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 05:03 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Nope. The Daytona jacks are arguably the best deal on the planet for floor jacks right now. Yeah. The original yellow Daytona has one of the widest lift ranges (and tallest lift heights overall) of any floor jack. You can get good enough jacks for less, but if you have to work on a stock height or taller truck, you might benefit from those extra inches.
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 08:09 |
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# ? Jun 6, 2024 15:00 |
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IIRC the Daytona jack comes from the same supplier Snap In get their low profile jacks from which is hey they look similar.
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# ? Jul 29, 2020 10:05 |