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Alokgen posted:X POSTING Dude gently caress YOU that glaive looks amazing
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Jul 27, 2020 15:31
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Anti-Tachyon posted:After realising I didn't have any magenta paint and my order getting lost for 2 weeks, I've finally finished my lizards! I like the disco armadillo! Blending looks pretty sweet to me.
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Jul 27, 2020 15:43
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but overall it came out pretty good imo 
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That armored dillla reminds me of this 70's era dinosaur book where several images were rendered in a similar color pallet. Looks great. May have settled on a color for my space bugs.
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Jul 27, 2020 17:02
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Anti-Tachyon posted:After realising I didn't have any magenta paint and my order getting lost for 2 weeks, I've finally finished my lizards! this is great, the orange (and dinosaurs) reminds me of my old lunchbox: 
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Jul 27, 2020 17:37
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Anti-Tachyon posted:After realising I didn't have any magenta paint and my order getting lost for 2 weeks, I've finally finished my lizards! I like how your color palette is based off the good starburst flavors.
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Jul 27, 2020 18:04
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Spanish Manlove posted:I like how your color palette is based off the good starburst flavors. That would just be Red/Yellow, though? 
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Jul 27, 2020 18:08
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Main color theme* whatever, those are the only good ones
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Jul 27, 2020 18:31
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you're both wrong, I didn't use green anywhere!!!
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Jul 27, 2020 20:22
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I bought my son Imperial Assault for his birthday and I was thinking it would be fun to get back into painting. The models are plastic, and Darth Vader’s light saber is a bit...droopy. I tried bending it a little but eventually it just bends back to being a sad banana. Any tips for how to fix it?
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Jul 27, 2020 21:19
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Red Rox posted:I bought my son Imperial Assault for his birthday and I was thinking it would be fun to get back into painting. The models are plastic, and Darth Vader’s light saber is a bit...droopy. I tried bending it a little but eventually it just bends back to being a sad banana. Any tips for how to fix it? Dip the light saber in hot, near-boiling water for a few seconds. This will soften the plastic and you can then reshape it. Before it cools, dunk it in ice water; the temperature shock will set the plastic in place. This works for pretty much all types of board game plastic and other softer plastics.
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Jul 27, 2020 21:43
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 So my first skeleton (left) came out with this gray coating to their shield and staff. I think it’s because I didn’t properly shake up the dark wash I used, and the wash was over a flat black undercoat. The second skeleton (right) I tried to produce the same effect but couldn’t replicate it. Does anyone have any tips on how to produce the effect on the left? I like that it looks more worn and dusty, like the skeleton just pulled itself out of a crypt, as opposed to the right having these rusty effects but then stark black finishes on the shield as if it were recently painted.
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Jul 27, 2020 21:54
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Slimnoid posted:Dip the light saber in hot, near-boiling water for a few seconds. This will soften the plastic and you can then reshape it. Before it cools, dunk it in ice water; the temperature shock will set the plastic in place. Oh true, nice one.
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Jul 27, 2020 22:59
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If I have the opportunity to snag a Badger Krome for $20 more than Patriot would cost me, should I take it? I hear rave reviews about the Patriot and this would be my first airbrush, but I haven't heard anything about the Krome really. Is it more of an advanced brush? And if not, is it worth the extra money or should I just hold out until the Patriots are back in stock?
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Jul 28, 2020 01:29
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DUDE READ MY FANFICTION BRO IT'S REALLY GOOD
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Jul 28, 2020 03:16
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:If I have the opportunity to snag a Badger Krome for $20 more than Patriot would cost me, should I take it? I hear rave reviews about the Patriot and this would be my first airbrush, but I haven't heard anything about the Krome really. Is it more of an advanced brush? And if not, is it worth the extra money or should I just hold out until the Patriots are back in stock? Some of the chrome airbrushes have a really fine needle bore which is probably overkill. They also have larger needle kits you can buy and install, so you get some options. I don’t think you’ll be disappointed in either one, but maybe just save the money with the patriot and in a few years you can look into an Iwata or something.
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Jul 28, 2020 04:11
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Looking ahead because apparently nothing is in stock anymore (ie Badger Patriot 105s) thanks to covid, how big of a deal is the cup size difference between the Iwata Eclipse BS and CS if I'm just painting 40k minis?
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Jul 28, 2020 06:21
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I went with the smaller sized cup when I bought my HP-BH+ and I vastly prefer it for detail work compared to the larger size on my Badger Krome. You do have to load a lot less paint in the brush though, especially when you do any backflow mixing, so if it was my only brush I may not have gone with the smaller cup. It's still plenty of paint and way more than you'd use in a single sitting, but you have to be careful it doesn't bubble out when you're mixing it.
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Jul 28, 2020 06:43
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It kind of depends on what you'll be using it for. If it's primarily going to be used for priming and basecoating and you batch paint a lot, the larger cup is going to be worth it. That being said, it's not like you can't use the BS in those cases, it just might be a little tight but not a huge problem as long as you're fine with topping up a little more often. If you use your airbrush for more single model and detail type stuff, you probably won't notice the difference at all.
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Jul 28, 2020 06:44
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Yeah primary use case will be single model priming, base coating, blending and shading cause I got a lot of free time so I can save the $20 CAD and not worry about it being out of stock when I'm ready to buy
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Jul 28, 2020 07:01
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Eej posted:Looking ahead because apparently nothing is in stock anymore (ie Badger Patriot 105s) thanks to covid, how big of a deal is the cup size difference between the Iwata Eclipse BS and CS if I'm just painting 40k minis?  I was gonna buy an airbrush right before COVID hit, and I was thinking about buying it again just recently. The 40K thread pointed me towards Spray Gunner for a place to get it cheap, but it's out of stock right now, and I have no idea of when it's going to be available again.I'm at the point where I just want to go "screw it", and order one off Amazon or something, even if it is at a higher price. I get frustrated trying to prime with rattlecans, because I can never seem to get a complete coverage, either because of positioning or the wind. On top of that, I want to see if I can do basecoats and highlighting to save myself some time. Plus, I've got a Rhino and Exorcist that I'd rather paint with an airbrush instead of by brush. We've got another stimulus check coming, so I guess I could put it towards that. I'm wondering if I should do the Iwata Eclipse instead of the Patriot 105. I was recommended that a while ago, and the benefit of that is that it doesn't need the converter for the airhose.
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Jul 28, 2020 13:26
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Honestly for your first airbrush it's probably fine to go with a cheap Chinese model. It'll give you time to get used to properly mix and thin your paints until the good models are back in stock. I mean some of the cheap models are like $20 and work just fine, and indeed much better than rattlecans, for primers and basecoats.
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Jul 28, 2020 18:08
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Furism posted:Honestly for your first airbrush it's probably fine to go with a cheap Chinese model. It'll give you time to get used to properly mix and thin your paints until the good models are back in stock. I mean some of the cheap models are like $20 and work just fine, and indeed much better than rattlecans, for primers and basecoats. I think I asked about doing one of the cheap $20 airbrushes a while back, and someone said not to bother, but the situation was different then. EDIT: From back in January Max Wilco posted:Question: I've thought about buying this airbrush [Central Pneumatic Deluxe Airbrush] to get some experience on how to use an airbrush without breaking the bank too much. I was thinking that if it wasn't suited for detail work, then at the very least, it would work well for priming models without using aerosol cans. Booyah- posted:It's not the style of airbrush you want. That one feeds from a jar below, and for miniatures people usually use one that feeds from above. The OP of this thread has a lot of really good advise for airbrushing. You can get away with a cheaper kit but since the compressor and hood will cost you about $150, you may not want to skimp on the airbrush itself. Bloody Hedgehog posted:I would save for a better one. You don't have to break the bank, get a Patriot 105. It'll only set you back about $80, even cheaper if you find a sale. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 00:31
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Silhouette posted:You'd think so, but 1oz bottles of tattoo ink are around $8-10 on average. It seems like it's more expensive than art ink at first glance, but as an example of how heavily pigmented it is, you'd use 25-30 drops of art ink to make a GW pot-sized amount of wash. With tattoo ink, you'd probably use closer to 2-5 drops. Honestly i thought the difference between a wash/paint and an ink was physical, with the former being solid dust suspended in a liquid, whereas ink was a coloured liquid all by itself so you got different properties in use? So making a wash from an ink would perform differently, but then again I really have no idea
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Jul 29, 2020 00:42
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a while back i asked if anyone knew of any good kid adventurer figs. by accident, i found that bad squiddo made these excellent "Amazon Children" https://badsquiddogames.com/shop#!/Little-Wolves-Amazon-Children/p/143744439/category=21735095 i did some conversion work to make use a shield      this will be my daughter's fig for the dungeon crawl when we start it this fall (and her pet mouse, which is from the frost grave wizards sprue) 
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Jul 29, 2020 00:53
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Nebalebadingdong posted:a while back i asked if anyone knew of any good kid adventurer figs. by accident, i found that bad squiddo made these excellent "Amazon Children" D'aww. 
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Jul 29, 2020 00:55
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Max Wilco posted:I'm wondering if I should do the Iwata Eclipse instead of the Patriot 105. I was recommended that a while ago, and the benefit of that is that it doesn't need the converter for the airhose. I can't guarantee this will be the case for you if you buy one but when I got a 105 during one of their anniversary sales it came with a converter.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:03
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Nebalebadingdong posted:a while back i asked if anyone knew of any good kid adventurer figs. by accident, i found that bad squiddo made these excellent "Amazon Children" this is the cutest drat thing in the thread and I love that shield
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Jul 29, 2020 01:32
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Verisimilidude posted:
I'd recommend trying out cheap matte acrylic varnish. Just the shittiest low budget crap you can find. That will often produce that sort of dusty, slightly opaque look.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:41
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Nebalebadingdong posted:a while back i asked if anyone knew of any good kid adventurer figs. by accident, i found that bad squiddo made these excellent "Amazon Children" Just want to say that I love what you're working on and it's giving me inspiration for my own project of slowly accumulating figures for future dungeon crawl games.
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Jul 29, 2020 01:47
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I just "finished" (still need to do basing and a little post-varnish touch-up work) a mini for my in-person Pathfinder game. It's the first mini I've painted in quite a while and I'm pretty happy with how it ended up, so I thought I'd share. 
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Jul 29, 2020 05:21
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Somebody should make a dedicated airbrushing thread as I keep seeing the same questions here, in the 40k thread and in the Scale modeling thread. I wouldn’t buy a Krome as a first airbrush, it’s got a tiny needle meant for fine detailing and would suck to do priming or basecoats. It’s also fiddly to clean and I had a hard time spraying some paints through it. It’s also HUGE so unless you have monster hands I’d recommend something else. People like the 105 because it’s sturdy as gently caress, easy to clean, and can be used for anything from basecoats to fairly fine details. If you’re airbrushing in the US you should have one, USA airbrush supply has them for 80$. Get a quick disconnect/ hose adapter to go with it. There’s nothing wrong with trying a lovely Chinese gravity feed airbrush, they’re going to shoot basecoats just fine, just don’t expect to get good details or for them to last very long but for 20$ who cares. Get a good mask but if you’re only spraying water based acrylics you don’t need to go overboard, if you’re spraying anything solvent based, err on the side of safety and get a hardcore mask.
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Jul 29, 2020 07:14
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Max Wilco posted:
I bought my last airbrush, an Iwata HP-BH from Merri Artist as Spraygunner didn't carry the model I wanted. They actually ended up having better prices on everything I was looking at and I was extremely happy with my purchase. They also carry a few Badger brushes and several other brands also.
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Jul 29, 2020 08:06
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I recently finished Szeras! Such a fantastic model and I hyped to get going on my new crons from the box.
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Jul 29, 2020 21:51
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Bucnasti posted:Somebody should make a dedicated airbrushing thread as I keep seeing the same questions here, in the 40k thread and in the Scale modeling thread. $20 isn't a lot, but as someone pointed out, you could save the $20 and put it towards buying something like the 105, which will last longer and be more reliable in the long run. USA Airbrush Supply and Merri Artist look like they both have some pretty good selections. Merri Artist has this listing, which comes with a hose and bottles, but I don't know if the hose comes with the converter or not, and I don't think I need the bottles. Either way, both sites look like a good place to get a brush. I do want to verify that both sites are legit. I don't mean to offend anybody in asking that; if you're recommending them, I'm sure that they are. I just thought to run both sites through things like the BBB and TrustPilot, and while I got results, they had no ratings.
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Jul 29, 2020 22:22
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Neat, I've been home 15 minutes and I already broke the airbrush  This is what I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017640RK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Note that it shows the airbrush holder attached to the regulator in the photos. Well, in person it does not come attached. From what I could see in the image on my phone, I thought I needed to unscrew the regulator, then put the holder on, then rescrew the regulator back on. I unscrewed the regulator, and now I have this:  A regulator cap, some random metal bit, and a spring that cannot possibly be compressed by human hands. Do I really gotta now ship this back to the manufacturer? gently caress me
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Jul 29, 2020 22:28
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Sab669 posted:Neat, I've been home 15 minutes and I already broke the airbrush Is the only issue you can't compress the spring enough to get the cap back on? If so, just get a ratcheting clamp that you can use to press down on the whole assembly until it screws/snaps back into place.
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Jul 29, 2020 22:47
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That's a good idea, but the moisture trap would surely shatter, I think. I actually managed to get it back on, but I didn't have the spring / metal bit on correctly so I still couldn't adjust the pressure. I think the spring is supposed to go on top, so that metal bit needs to stay balanced up right while I try to put a ton of force onto it. Ugh.
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Jul 29, 2020 23:00
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Sab669 posted:That's a good idea, but the moisture trap would surely shatter, I think. Maybe just get the clamp on the edges of the housing? It looks like there's a decent lip surrounding the moisture trap that you could get one end of the clamp wedge on. Looks like the pointy end of the metal pin goes down first into that little hole on the housing, then the spring threads over that and rests on the flat metal base halfway up the pin, then cap goes over that all, with the square top of the pin fitting into a recess on the cap.
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Jul 29, 2020 23:08
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Yea it's definitely pointy end down, spring on top. Although the diameter of the spring is not wide enough to actually go "over" the bit, so it just awkwardly sits on top. Guess I'll run to home depot and see if I can get a pair of clamps to try and keep it level but I am not confident in that plan at all. Literally had a dream about using this last night lol
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Jul 29, 2020 23:27
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Anyone have any tutorials they like for ice bases? Working on a test model from Dark Imperium and I like the idea of icy/snow bases to go with the red and black armor. I like Vince's snow base tutorial, but the ice one doesn't quite have the look I am going for so I'd love to see other options.
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Jul 29, 2020 23:40
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