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Any reason you couldn't use a decent sized steel truck wheel instead of a bbq bowl for that furnace? Obviously you need to block some holes off on the bottom but it's got to be sturdier than a BBQ bowl?
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Jul 29, 2020 08:31
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No reason for me, I am probably gonna weld up my own but entirely from my own materials. I just thought it was a cool and simple way to get a working forge.
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Jul 29, 2020 09:49
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His Divine Shadow posted:The reason for barbecue is to quickly and cheaply get your hands on a simple suitable bowl easily and it will be sorta portable and not too heavy, as opposed to buying or scrounging sheet metal and welding and fabricating one. I have designed a version using sheet metal and angle iron and also after some feedback from a smithing forum tried mocking up a design with a steel firepot, water jacketed side inlet and top as opposed to sand or clay for weight reduction. The portability aspect is a big one I wasn't focusing on at all, I do see the value there and it changes the analysis; I was thinking mostly in terms of effort put into making something vs results. For the water jacket my issue was introducing the piping but again it helps for portability. I absolutely see the need to separate the two of you're regularly moving it around, as anything holding ten+ gallons of water is going to end up being the heaviest part of the forge E: also in my defense, after watching it again he skips over the most complicated piece in the whole setup, the cooling jacketed tuyere. I only have a few frames to see it clearly but that is not diy-amateur welding for someone making their first forge and it's really dumb that's the one piece he doesn't explain, the rest of it all looks easy because he ignores the one step that requires work and knowledge Double edit: I know you said it was "just" welding but seating pipe into a thin skinned cylinder and then capping it all off watertight is a nontrivial welding task. Definitely not impossible but also not something I'd bill as a diy ez first forge as he does. E: I figured it out: it's because he's selling the cooling assembly on Etsy 
threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 14:42
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Yeah he does, I tried to look for it though and the etsy page was a 404. I guess it's not babys first welding project level no, guess I didn't think that people might approach this and have never welded before. Anyway I also bougt this: 
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Jul 29, 2020 15:39
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I'm just hyperaware to it due to teaching a lot lately and am very cautious of most beginners limits and abilities due to what I see when i teach. A lot of people can monkey-see monkey-do, but the instant you ask them to apply what they've learned to something similar it falls apart a bit and you end up re-teaching something they already know. I learned by having an old guy just set me on hooks 8 hours a day for weeks. They were all terrible but it was about getting the reps and muscle memory in. But while it was useful it's hard to expect folks to spend 80 hours just doing one thing these days (unless it's knives). Anyways roundabout apology, I wasn't trying to put down your abilities or the usefulness of the project, I just immediately went to what I saw as flaws for the new folks he was aiming at... which honestly doesn't even apply to most of this thread in retrospect, we've got some skilled folks in here. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 15:53
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I got the anvil home today, it was 1½ hours away one way: Was it painted red some time in it's life or just got splashed with some paint I wonder.   Lengthwise it's not flat  Crowned across the side here  But in others it's dished.  Difficult to read the year or anything else really but I don't think it's from the 19th century. I think it reads 191? instead.  It was pretty rusty so I rubbed it down with some boiled linseed oil. I am not sure if I should put it in the electrolysis bath or not, or just leave it as is. 
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Jul 30, 2020 15:49
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So what's the plan for correcting the top? Throw it in the mill and take 5mm off? Can you even do that with a forged anvil?
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Jul 30, 2020 16:17
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May have been years ago now, but didn't someone in here resurface an anvil by laying down a ton of parallel beads on top and then milling it flat?
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Jul 30, 2020 16:58
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I think in general if you're going to mess with it the ideal process is you lay down weld and grind it even, yeah. In general grinding it down deep is not a good idea as you will eventually get to softer metal on the inside that won't hold up (assuming you have the common hardened steel face atop a wrought body. I'm no anvil connoisseur about brands). On the flip side the heat surface -> weld beads -> grind -> weld again is not a fun process, so if it's only a very small dip grinding away a little bit of material is definitely easier and isn't likely to really hurt things too much. Looking at the pictures again, I'd work with it a few weeks and see how you feel about it. The worst variations appear to be lengthwise, and given most work happens across the width you may find it's not too disruptive if those are less deformed. Just depends on where the worst and best parts of the face are, and your level of tolerance. Some of it is noticeable even in your zoomed out picture but it obviously varies along the face. Plus since you don't often directly strike them filling out your radiuses with weld to fix those edges is much simpler and less exacting if that's the only tune up you end up doing. I'd love to hear from the guy here who did a full fix and/or heat treat, I've dressed up some but never done a full rebuild of a face. Everyone I've talked to just confirms it's a pain in the rear end, but it would be cool to hear the tricks first hand. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 17:16
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The other process is to cut a 4140 or similar steel plate (~1/4-1/2" thick) in the shape of the anvil top (excluding the horn), grind the existing anvil top flat with an angle grinder, weld the plate on, and grind the welds clean.
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Jul 30, 2020 17:27
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cakesmith handyman posted:So what's the plan for correcting the top? Throw it in the mill and take 5mm off? Can you even do that with a forged anvil? I plan to just leave it as is for now. I think it's usable as is. It's probably a wrough iron base and the top is forge welded steel so grinding it can remove the hard layer or make it too thin. If I were to do anything I think it would involve the right kind of hard facing electrode and an angle grinder. But I don't think I need to do this, yet anyway. The anvil will go into storage until I have built the house where I will keep smithing related stuff. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 17:30
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Also apropos of nothing: does anyone know about and old black and white video showing a dude just hammering out chain links? He's on a stone forge and has his anvil set up with chain link jigs. Something makes me think it was German but I could be wrong. I've been googling and searching YouTube and even reddit but can't find it, I thought I had added it to my saved videos but got nothing. The impressive part was his fast and simple welding and also his efficiency shaping the chain, he was using backblows which I have never in my life seen anyone do. I swear he'd hammer down to start a link bending and hit it with the back of the hammer on the recovery of the same swing to finish the top arch of the link. It was some of the most effortless work I've ever seen, it's clear he'd been doing that job for decades. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 18:20
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Anvil Repair https://imgur.com/gallery/nzunV My group, New England Blacksmiths, does this once a year. It's a lot of work and effort, and it takes a skilled welder to do correctly. I'm happy to answer any questions.
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Jul 31, 2020 01:33
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Pagan posted:Anvil Repair Very cool, I've got an old Peter Wright that could use this sort of attention post-COVID.
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Jul 31, 2020 02:11
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There it is! I knew that had come up before
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Jul 31, 2020 02:15
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I have a friend who has done that to his anvils as well. Preheat and weld with a type of hardfacing rod, OK 78.16 is the ESAB designation I believe.
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Jul 31, 2020 07:03
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His Divine Shadow posted:I got the anvil home today, it was 1½ hours away one way: I see a 69 on there. Hell yeah!!
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Jul 31, 2020 11:14
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69kg 151 something?
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Jul 31, 2020 18:34
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I took a soft wirebrush to it (carding wheel) and cleaned up the area, now the 5 definitely looks like a 9. So I am thinking it's a year but th elast number is half obliterated. So I think it's from the 1910s. Also took an angle grinder to the burrs on the horns.
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Jul 31, 2020 18:36
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https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-6-x-48-Belt-9-Disc-Z-Series-Combo-Sander/G1014Z I bought this thing used ~6 years ago for normal woodworking use and replaced it last year with a massive edge sander. Didn't feel like trying to sell it, so I took off the disc, locked it vertical and I've been using it for metalwork instead. Helpful, but way too slow, crap graphite stickyback platen and a table that isn't adjustable for height (and flexes too much). So now it's time for round 3 on the neverending march towards a ship of theseus argument. All that's left of the original sander is the platen/frame and the rollers.    Slapped a 1hp 1750rpm motor on there and dicked around with pulley sizes. I'm going to bump up the motor pulley from 4" to 6". Also have to open up the pulley I picked up for the driven roller, since it doesn't fit the belt terribly well and I want the effective diameter to get down closer to 2". Really hard to find small 15mm bore pulleys for v belts. Going to brace the top of the frame a little, cut out a piece of 1/8" cold rolled sheet to use as a platen/wear surface, and then build a 2x72 style adjustable table.
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Aug 1, 2020 05:23
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Thanks for all the hole sawing advice a few days ago. I've come up with a plan and wanted to run it by you all. Make jig to hold weight to be drilled Use hole saw to mark where it is going to cut Drill series of small (1/8"? 3/16?) holes in the hole saw's kerf (how many? 4?) to help clear chips Cut at slowest speed with alot of lube (WD-40?) Hypnolobster posted:
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Aug 1, 2020 13:13
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Yeah, it is. Originally had a 3 phase motor on it, and it's got a bit of runout but it's still an incredible drill press. Configured with a crazy long spindle (probably why it's bent) and a full 6" throw. Also that plan is good. Just one hole at the kerf is enough, though 2 is probably a little better. I'd go with 3/16" as it's the size where drills start getting a little stiffer and don't take as much babying in steel or cast iron.
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Aug 1, 2020 14:38
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Was gonna cast the last part of my shed foundation today but I noticed I saw the sun through my cement mixers bowl. It's getting worn out. Think this coulda been a job for a MIG and perhaps cutting some new sheet and pounding to shape, but I don't got one and I wanted to get it working in 10 minutes. So TIG and silicon bronze is what I chose because this old rusty metal is a PITA to weld.
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Aug 1, 2020 20:04
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Not often you see Kintsugi in the industrial environment.
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Aug 1, 2020 20:07
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Used a machine at work to engrave a scale on some tubing. Then I bent it.  Now I've got a scale for measuring where to start bends and how long they'll be.
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Aug 1, 2020 20:12
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honda whisperer posted:Used a machine at work to engrave a scale on some tubing. gently caress, that's brilliant.
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Aug 2, 2020 05:54
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When changing collets in a mill, is is best to crank the drawbar down tight, or just snug it?
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Aug 3, 2020 13:25
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SkunkDuster posted:When changing collets in a mill, is is best to crank the drawbar down tight, or just snug it? Tight, but not RFT. There's a reason they use butterfly impact guns on Bridgeport "power drawbar" conversations. 60ft-lbs on a lubricated BP R8 drawbar.
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Aug 3, 2020 14:04
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SkunkDuster posted:When changing collets in a mill, is is best to crank the drawbar down tight, or just snug it? This is one of those topics that really piss off machinists. I assume we're talking R8 collets in a Bridgeport style mill here. I have not ever seen a specific procedure w/torque value, but for R8 collets an uncontroversial take up procedure is usually: -Clean the taper in the spindle, make sure its free of chips. If its a keyed spindle, note that. -Inspect collet threads -Insert collet and thread by hand until friction starts -Put moderate force on mill brake and tighten with wrench. Theres a lot of different conditions and frictions of bridgeport mill brakes but most people won';t be offended by this procedure. -When done, remove collet, store and clean spindle. Leave shop towel in spindle nose.
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Aug 3, 2020 14:34
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CarForumPoster posted:This is one of those topics that really piss off machinists. I assume we're talking R8 collets in a Bridgeport style mill here. R8 collets in a LMS 5550 (SIEG SX2.7) benchtop mill. I was originally cranking it down pretty tight, but was worried that I might be going overboard. The last few months I've been going a little more than snug and haven't had any problems, but wanted to make sure it wasn't a safety risk.
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Aug 3, 2020 16:49
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Slung Blade posted:gently caress, that's brilliant. If I do it again I'll mill flats somewhere so I can flip it over or just turn the marks in with a lathe. It only works one way atm.
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Aug 4, 2020 02:35
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honda whisperer posted:If I do it again I'll mill flats somewhere so I can flip it over or just turn the marks in with a lathe. Measure from the other end?
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Aug 4, 2020 03:07
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The bender doesn't make a perfect arc. It's close but a little off. When I use that to line up where where the tube will be in the bender they've got to be going in the same direction.
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Aug 4, 2020 13:50
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Old school scythe manufacturing, Sweden in 1920s https://www.filmarkivet.se/movies/lietillverkning-vid-wira-bruk/ Hmmm, I got a deja vu feeling about this.
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Aug 6, 2020 12:23
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 Only 4 bends so far but the gauge works well..
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Aug 7, 2020 02:31
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honda whisperer posted:
Slicks in the rear, tell me more.
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Aug 7, 2020 02:56
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sharkytm posted:Slicks in the rear, tell me more. 90 civic hatch, gonna be a track day then road race car. Simple, cheap, slow, and fun as hell I hope. I'll probably start a build thread in AI soon.
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Aug 7, 2020 03:25
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Cleaned & prettied up the old vices I bought 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:14 on Aug 7, 2020 |
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Aug 7, 2020 12:11
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His Divine Shadow posted:Cleaned & prettied up the old vices I bought Very nice! I have two old vices that need this treatment
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Aug 7, 2020 15:10
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You gonna drill the vise into the floor or set it up a stand or tie it to a table? I've considered doing permanent fixturing into concrete at home but haven't committed yet, and everywhere I've worked there's usually a heavy plate metal table that's massy enough the vise isn't going anywhere even if you really crank on it.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:31
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