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iospace posted:So this happened. those are double shots? if so, about how long did they last? i like mine...
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Jul 31, 2020 03:34
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Dicked around Rockford Illinois today, surprisingly good
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Jul 31, 2020 04:03
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lodie posted:those are double shots? if so, about how long did they last? i like mine... Yes, and a year and I wanna say 8 months? They went through two winters.
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Jul 31, 2020 04:10
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I think I want some new bars for my emonda. I have the stock Bontrager Elite VR-C bars right now, they feel quite wide and I hate the shape of the drops. No idea what I should be looking for. Carbon? Aero? Neither? I’ve never bought bars before.
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Jul 31, 2020 10:46
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Benson Cunningham posted:This is just meant to be informative, but having puppies run on concrete/asphalt a lot before their bones develop can lead to problems later on. Just something to look into if you meant pup in the puppy sense and it's something you plan to do a lot. She's three and we did single track in the woods. I think she took it well. Even I can't run on pavement anymore, my knees are toast.
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Jul 31, 2020 13:02
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What pedals do you all like for being able to ride with normal shoes but also go clipless at times
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Jul 31, 2020 13:19
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i had the shimano spd ones and thought they were the dirt loving worst. they’re fine for when you go clipless, but cycling in flats was miserable especially in the wet. The SPD side is really slippery when wet, and my foot would fly off the pedal when trying to set off on the wrong side All The God Damned Time. Literally everyone else who uses them seems to like them though so idk
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Jul 31, 2020 13:24
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Time posted:What pedals do you all like for being able to ride with normal shoes but also go clipless at times I have these https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-t8000/PD-T8000.html I like them. I can immediately tell if I'm on wrong side and it's easy to flip it without looking. The screws help traction a lot. You will never want to pedal barefoot with them out. The orange reflectors also makes you respectable and sexually desirable to roadies.
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Jul 31, 2020 13:30
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jesus WEP posted:i had the shimano spd ones and thought they were the dirt loving worst. they’re fine for when you go clipless, but cycling in flats was miserable especially in the wet. The SPD side is really slippery when wet, and my foot would fly off the pedal when trying to set off on the wrong side All The God Damned Time. Are you talking about the A530s or the EH500s? I have heard that feedback about the 530s but some people think the 500s are better Ola posted:I have these https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-t8000/PD-T8000.html These look like a good option as well, thank you Time fucked around with this message at 13:32 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 13:30
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Time posted:Are you talking about the A530s or the EH500s? I have heard that feedback about the 530s but some people think the 500s are better
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Jul 31, 2020 13:34
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Ola posted:I have these https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-t8000/PD-T8000.html Another vote for these. I've put them through a ton of abuse over the last 2 years and they feel like new, OTOH my friend had a pair of Double Shots fail in the exact same way after a year.
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Jul 31, 2020 13:39
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Rode 3 miles with my pup. She's little so that's about as far as I can push her. My dude, teach me your ways as i wanna teach mine how to ride with bikes.
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Jul 31, 2020 14:12
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:I think I want some new bars for my emonda. I have the stock Bontrager Elite VR-C bars right now, they feel quite wide and I hate the shape of the drops. Deda rhm 01 or 02 are compact and good value. I've used both and prefer the flattened top. 3t ergonova or whatever daft name they've given the latest version is good too, and available in carbon if you want that (though then you get internal routing too aaaaa). The 3t is a bit more compact than the rhm02 I feel. Be aware Deda measure outside not centre.
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Jul 31, 2020 14:18
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I managed my first pf bottom bracket installation. Maybe the creaking will finally go away? There's all sorts of loctite in there too. It's supposed to cure in 24 hours, but I figure I'll just give it the weekend before I do anything else. Lord help me if that's not the solution to the creaking.
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Jul 31, 2020 14:19
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Crumps Brother posted:I managed my first pf bottom bracket installation. Maybe the creaking will finally go away? There's all sorts of loctite in there too. It's supposed to cure in 24 hours, but I figure I'll just give it the weekend before I do anything else.
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Jul 31, 2020 14:22
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:I think I want some new bars for my emonda. I have the stock Bontrager Elite VR-C bars right now, they feel quite wide and I hate the shape of the drops. Measure the bars to be sure what width they are, get the cheapest one size down on ebay that look shaped like what you want, and try those out in your hands. Measure the test bars to confirm they’re the size you’re expecting. Test install them without wrapping tape. Only if they feel right should you commit to that model or to a tier up in the model line — carbon, lighter alu, etc. Flat tops are nice, and you can get flatter with carbon. I think I like really stiff bars, as only one pair of carbon bars has been not had some noticeable flex. Not to the point of unusable or anything, but even a few mm of deflection at the end of the drops is too flexy feeling. I’d rather have the stiffness than the buzz damping.
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Jul 31, 2020 15:23
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kimbo305 posted:Measure the bars to be sure what width they are, get the cheapest one size down on ebay that look shaped like what you want, and try those out in your hands. Measure the test bars to confirm they’re the size you’re expecting. This is good advice, thanks. I’ll see what’s available on eBay.
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Jul 31, 2020 16:35
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sweat poteto posted:Deda rhm 01 or 02 are compact and good value. I've used both and prefer the flattened top. 3t ergonova or whatever daft name they've given the latest version is good too, and available in carbon if you want that (though then you get internal routing too aaaaa). The 3t is a bit more compact than the rhm02 I feel. Be aware Deda measure outside not centre. I'll echo that the Deda bar curve shape is imo really comfortable for all-day-in-the-drops use. I'll also take this prompt as an opportunity to give a long-ish term review to the bars I put on my race bike at the beginning of the year: the PRO vibe aero. I have used a flattened section bar before, but it was aluminum (the Deda Superzero alloy), and it was more annoying than helpful - they aren't flattened enough to be meaningfully more comfortable, just wider to grab. The PRO vibe aero is NARROW. And, interestingly, not just on the tops: below the brifters the drops narrow down dramatically - I believe for aerodynamic purposes.  On initial use I was concerned they'd be too uncomfortable being that much narrower. I ended up putting a pretty thick bartape on, which I'm sure undercuts whatever aerodynamic benefit I was supposed to be getting, but with that combination I have been super happy - the flattened profile actually feels *better* than a round tube when sprinting hard, and I don't notice discomfort when just cruising. I can't speak to the comfort of the flat tops, because I never use them - in that sense they're presumably doing their job of being as aero as possible while not being actively annoying. The only frustration I have with them is that I wish they had started the top wing section a tiny bit further from the stem clamp - it can't even fit a standard k-edge mount, they had to make a special skinnier version. Overall, very happy with these bars. On the spendy end, but for a comfortable but super stiff aero option, worth considering if that sounds interesting to you.
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Jul 31, 2020 16:40
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jesus WEP posted:M234 I had those like 10 years ago and they were okay. The EH500 are great though. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FTB9MCW/ The platform is pretty decent size, and the studs will tear up your legs if you miss the pedal. 
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Jul 31, 2020 17:51
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Time posted:What pedals do you all like for being able to ride with normal shoes but also go clipless at times
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Jul 31, 2020 19:16
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bicievino posted:
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Jul 31, 2020 19:50
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numberoneposter posted:SPD-SL no
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Jul 31, 2020 19:55
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numberoneposter posted:SPD-SL This actually works surprisingly well imo.
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Jul 31, 2020 20:07
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Time posted:no Just in case you thought he was joking, SPD-SL pedals work fine with regular shoes if you're coordinated enough to handle one-sided pedals. If I want to go somewhere with non-bike footwear and don't want to use my fatbike (like if I'm meeting up with a friend and am stashing a bike in their place with stairs), I'll just use my road bike instead of bringing a second pair of shoes with me on my commuter bike.
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Jul 31, 2020 20:11
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Coxswain Balls posted:Just in case you thought he was joking, SPD-SL pedals work fine with regular shoes if you're coordinated enough to handle one-sided pedals. If I want to go somewhere with non-bike footwear and don't want to use my fatbike (like if I'm meeting up with a friend and am stashing a bike in their place with stairs), I'll just use my road bike instead of bringing a second pair of shoes with me on my commuter bike. I would rather have a bigger pedal platform for when it’s really nasty outside but I understand where you’re coming from and have done this a bunch
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Jul 31, 2020 20:22
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Yeah that's true, since it's my road bike and not my fully fredded commuting bike I don't really use it in poor weather. It's probably not idea for those conditions. Apparently the stolen bike market is booming here to the point where you have to pre-order bikes you see locked up on the street. 
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Jul 31, 2020 20:29
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Coxswain Balls posted:Yeah that's true, since it's my road bike and not my fully fredded commuting bike I don't really use it in poor weather. It's probably not idea for those conditions. Set blood to boil.
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Jul 31, 2020 20:49
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Friends, please help. I got a Sugino Impel triple crank, 42/32/22 (I think), 94 BCD. I bought a Wolf Tooth 94 BCD 28t chainring to replace the 32 (plan to just drop the 22), so I would have 42/28. Yeah, cool great. The problem (?) is that the chainring bolt holes are threaded and the chainring at those locations is thick enough that it basically takes up the entire length of the male part of the stock chainring bolts. So it can't thread into the female part of the chainring bolt and I'm not really sure what the intention is here. Are there extra-long chainring bolts for Wolf Tooth chainrings that can thread through their inner chainring and into the crank/outer chainring on the other side? https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/94-bcd-for-5-arm-cranks I admit I may also have missed something in the product text here. Edit: ??? https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/chainring-bolts/products/chainring-bolts
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Jul 31, 2020 21:07
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rope kid posted:Friends, please help. I got a Sugino Impel triple crank, 42/32/22 (I think), 94 BCD. I bought a Wolf Tooth 94 BCD 28t chainring to replace the 32 (plan to just drop the 22), so I would have 42/28. Yeah, cool great. If that's the chainring you bought, you'll need to get a different one. That's a narrow-wide chain ring meant for 1x setups, if you can even manage to get it to work it will shift like poo poo.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:11
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Cool. Two more parts for the dustbin. I guess by "vintage cranks" they meant "vintage cranks that you want to convert to 1x". It seems pretty hard to find 94 BCD chainrings in the 30-28t range. Edit: Hmm maybe not??? Edit x2: Oh, that's the confusion. The crank has a 95 BCD and somehow the Wolf Tooth chainring showed up for me on a search even though it's a 94 BCD. Cool, I love the bike industry. I love the republic. rope kid fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 21:15
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rope kid posted:Cool. Two more parts for the dustbin. I guess by "vintage cranks" they meant "vintage cranks that you want to convert to 1x". It looks like all the Impel cranks online are 94 BCD. If you had the rings off already and the wolf tooth ring lined up, its the right BCD. If it is 94 BCD this 30t from Vuelta on a quick search should work. If there's a local bike coop/kitchen near you they might have a old ring that might work too if it hasn't been picked clean in the past couple months.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:30
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I'm seeing a bunch of Impels show up as 95 BCD so I'm not sure what's up with that. I didn't pull the rings off yet so I'll double-check later. Thanks for the help.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:31
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Hi, bike folks. I'm a pretty casual cyclist so far, doing like 2 or 3 outings weekly of 20-30 km each time, though in June I did 605km for Strava's 600km challenge because I wanted to see if I could do it. One of my recurring issues is that my hands loving hurt while riding due to my wrists being bent no matter how hard I try to keep them straight. My bike currently has a stock straightish bar, I'm thinking of swapping it out for a drop bar, but that's going to require a whole new set of shifters and I assume new cabling. I've never done that kind of work, though; should I just get a shop to do it for me? Will drops even solve my problem? Am I going to need a new derailleur for new shifters? I want to be able to do the 265km path around a local lake, and right now I doubt my ability to do so without horrible pain, so any advice is appreciated. Thanks, y'all.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:32
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rope kid posted:Friends, please help. I got a Sugino Impel triple crank, 42/32/22 (I think), 94 BCD. I bought a Wolf Tooth 94 BCD 28t chainring to replace the 32 (plan to just drop the 22), so I would have 42/28. Yeah, cool great. Ah yeah I have one of those on an old 94 BCD Sugino triple I converted to 1x. FireTora is right that "drop stop" refers to the wolftooth narrow-wide pattern for 1x. But since you're curious the threaded chainring eliminates the need for 4 of the 5 female chainring bolts. The odd one out 5th hole still needs one. I'm p. sure that's for cranksets with the 5th bolt behind the crank arm which is one of the most frustrating bike component designs imaginable. It's wild that 94 and 95 BCD both exist. I didn't know about that.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:38
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Hi, bike folks. I'm a pretty casual cyclist so far, doing like 2 or 3 outings weekly of 20-30 km each time, though in June I did 605km for Strava's 600km challenge because I wanted to see if I could do it. I'd try some swept back handlebars first since you'll have a lot less to swap, everything should switch over fine. The Jones H-Bar is on the pricier end, but you can get something similar for a bit cheaper. I think you can get some Origin8 ones for ~35 bucks. This site, WhatBars lets you overlay the shape of a bunch of different models to compare them. E: if you keep 'flat' style bars too, Ergon makes grips that help to keep your hands in a more natural position FireTora fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 21:38
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Hi, bike folks. I'm a pretty casual cyclist so far, doing like 2 or 3 outings weekly of 20-30 km each time, though in June I did 605km for Strava's 600km challenge because I wanted to see if I could do it. Easy and cheap thing to try is replacing your grips with horned ones. It's not the perfect solution for your problem, but I find it makes it easier to vary the hand position. There are many other variants, for instance bull horns which get pretty close to the hoods of a drop bar. They too would mount to your current bar and require no changes to brakes or shifting, but you obviously won't be braking or shifting as long as your hands are on it...
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Jul 31, 2020 21:47
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Hi, bike folks. I'm a pretty casual cyclist so far, doing like 2 or 3 outings weekly of 20-30 km each time, though in June I did 605km for Strava's 600km challenge because I wanted to see if I could do it. To add to what FireTora and Ola have said, I really like the Ergon GP-5 grips. They are a bit pricey ($70 USD MSRP) but they would be a simple addition to your current setup and would give you three hand positions instead of the one that you've currently got. I run them on a couple of bikes with flat bars and find them to be very comfortable with no wrist stiffness or pain. Certainly worth looking into, and would not require new shifters or anything else - just slide your old grips on, install these, and go ride.
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Jul 31, 2020 21:57
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In any case, see if you can find a shop with a generous return policy so you can try different stuff out to find something that works with you. The stock bar that came on my fatbike was giving me the same problems with bent wrists, and when I tried out a pair of Ergon winged grips they made things worse. What ended up fixing it for me was switching to swept-back Soma Clarence handlebars, and then adding thicker diameter grips made it perfect.
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Jul 31, 2020 22:22
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what kind of "local lake" is 265km around? just curious
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Jul 31, 2020 22:44
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Your saddle position and angle could also be causing problems. if it's too forward or angled down you wind up supporting more weight on your hands. A little downward saddle angle can be beneficial to comfort but if you're sliding off it and have to hold yourself in place with your hands that's a problem. So make sure that's not happening, and possibly try sliding it just slightly back (and also you have to go down a bit to compensate for the extra distance to the cranks. Brake and shift lever position could be contributing as well. They rotate up and down and move in and out just by loosening up the clamp bolt. You don't want to have to twist your wrists up or down to use the brakes and depending on the model you might want to move them in so only your index fingers pull the end of the lever. They tend to wind up way too far out/against the grips on a lot of bikes for some reason. jamal fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jul 31, 2020 |
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Jul 31, 2020 22:45
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