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ntan1 posted:Has anybody here done finish work with modern acrylic laminate before? If so, how have you dealt with applying edge banding? How do you get such a consistent and seamless edge? There are big edgebanding machines that do most of this industrially and give much better results than doing it by hand-you may have a tough time getting as good a result yourself.
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Aug 3, 2020 14:18
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I'm not sure how well you'd do with a rip cut with a track saw but for everything else I think a good track saw is going to be much better than a budget table saw (unless you're doing saw joinery like dados or something)
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Aug 3, 2020 16:41
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The biggest issue with track saw rips isn't the blade, those are readily available, it's the cost of the long rail (I believe the Makita 118" rail is the cheapest at just under $300 shipped, ones listed for less often have $100-$200 freight fees tacked on)
GEMorris fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 16:54
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It's a lot easier to replicate what a track saw does best with a circular and a yard stick and clamps. There really isn't a comparable safe alternative to what a table saw does best.
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Aug 3, 2020 17:01
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I just got around to trying out my new circular saw, I grabbed the 15 amp worm drive skilsaw. I'd been using a lovely battery powered thing that I've owned for at least a decade, the difference was astounding. So much nicer. I had to check to see if I'd made contact with the blade yet and found I was like three inches into the cut already and just couldn't feel any board resistance at all.
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Aug 3, 2020 18:46
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WOOD CRIMES My step dad dropped three sets of these on my porch years ago, full-size claw-foot table legs. He found them at an estate sale of a guy who used to work in industry and probably swiped them in 1970. They sat in his garage for 45 years then sat in mine for 6-7 until suddenly I need a pile 21-inch legs to make a pair of desks for my kids to do school work in the fall, and the tops I lopped these off of should do the job. They're going to be some weird looking tables, but they'll cost $100 less than prefab legs from Lowes (and probably look better than making the legs out of 2x4s). I hope the ghost of that dude's wife is finally able to rest after half a century of begging him to trash them or use them or JUST GET THEM OUT OF THE WAY. Huxley fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Aug 3, 2020 |
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Aug 3, 2020 21:29
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Vier posted:Does anyone have any advice on what budget table saw I should get for less than £300? You won't get a 'good' saw for that price over here in the UK. You're most likely going to get something like I've got, which is a Draper or a Evolution thing. What you get at this price is a very small rip width (think 300-400mm max) and a pretty rubbish top. You're likely to end up with a very shallow blade depth too which is okay if all you're doing is cutting plywood but if you want to start doing more advanced things like lap joints/box joints its no good. As others have said, the use you need it for is the real big question. If you take a look back through the thread you can see how I've turned a £200 table saw into a full size panel saw so it is possible to make do with whatever you've got but I wouldn't recommend it long term. You can however pick up a reasonable saw 2nd hand for that sort of money, although they are often in very high demand. Huxley posted:It's a lot easier to replicate what a track saw does best with a circular and a yard stick and clamps. Its also quite easy to make your own track saw with a few bits of ply if you've got the time and a doweling jig.
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Aug 3, 2020 21:47
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Remembering why I dipped out of this thread awhile back with a quickness but.... Most everyone who I've ever heard say "you can replicate a tracksaw with some scrap wood" has never used a track saw. A shop built substitute doesnt even remotely compare. People who say you can't work without a table saw have seldom ever tried. I know that's not exactly what was said, but the table saw is not the safest option for a hobbyist for anything. FWIW my answer to long rips isn't a track saw, its a bandsaw and a jointer plane. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 02:10
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Posted this in the general thread, but might as well post it here, too: Hurricane Hanna chewed up my fence something fierce and it needs to be replaced (thankfully, there was no other damage to the house). The problem is that there's a cedar shortage nationwide because of the shutdowns and several contractors have said that it might be months before we're restocked in my part of Texas. One of them said, however, that pine will last as long as long as it's treated with a water-sealer or painted every few years, it should last just as long as cedar. Is this true? I heard that pine lasts 7-10 years at most and cedar is more like 15-25.
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Aug 4, 2020 13:04
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Bandsaw + jointer is definitely my preferred machine for solid wood and is much safer than the tablesaw for sure, but if you're dealing primarily with sheet goods TS is hard to beat. Just depends what you're trying to do and what you're working with IMO. Huxley posted:WOOD CRIMES Just save 1 in case you ever want to learn to carve a ball and claw. It's not a particularly good pattern but it really helps to have the thing you're trying to carve right in front of you. IT BURNS posted:Posted this in the general thread, but might as well post it here, too: Hurricane Hanna chewed up my fence something fierce and it needs to be replaced (thankfully, there was no other damage to the house). The problem is that there's a cedar shortage nationwide because of the shutdowns and several contractors have said that it might be months before we're restocked in my part of Texas.
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Aug 4, 2020 13:13
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If I could go back in time and advise my younger self, I'd definitely tell myself to skip the table saw and save up for a good band saw first. Not that table saws aren't useful for what I want to do, but because a) I can do them on a band saw too, and a bunch of things I can't on a table saw as well, and b) doing repetitive tasks like a bunch of tenons it's very easy to just zone out and that's when accidents happen. Then again, I rarely use plywood so that might not be useful advice in case you do.
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Aug 4, 2020 15:16
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Just Winging It posted:If I could go back in time and advise my younger self, I'd definitely tell myself to skip the table saw and save up for a good band saw first. Not that table saws aren't useful for what I want to do, but because a) I can do them on a band saw too, and a bunch of things I can't on a table saw as well, and b) doing repetitive tasks like a bunch of tenons it's very easy to just zone out and that's when accidents happen. Then again, I rarely use plywood so that might not be useful advice in case you do. If it's easy for you to zone out doing repetitive tasks, you shouldn't be around power tools. There's no wiggle room.
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Aug 4, 2020 15:46
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Mr. Mambold posted:If it's easy for you to zone out doing repetitive tasks, you shouldn't be around power tools. There's no wiggle room. Yup, stuck my thumb in a bandsaw when I was really tired and resawing some cherry. I prefer the tablesaw as I get cleaner cuts than a bandsaw. No need to take a hand jointer after the cut.
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Aug 4, 2020 16:11
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That's dedication, to clean up the injury after it's inflicted.
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Aug 4, 2020 16:38
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Bad Munki posted:That's dedication, to clean up the injury after it's inflicted. He used a hand joiner to reattach his fingat hyuk yuk yuk.
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Aug 4, 2020 17:15
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Mr. Mambold posted:If it's easy for you to zone out doing repetitive tasks, you shouldn't be around power tools. There's no wiggle room. Jokes aside, that's precisely why I put that in there. I caught myself drifting off mentally a few times, especially when already tired after a day of repetitive tasks at work, after which I just quit doing what I was doing and switch to something unlikely to cause grievous bodily harm. I'm a bit too attached to my fingers to take stupid risks by working with genuinely dangerous equipment like that when not in the right frame of mind, and am glad I realized that before I learned it the painful way.
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Aug 4, 2020 18:02
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Before using power tools it pays to run through a mental checklist, and do it every time even for repetitive tasks. Whenever I do a rip cut on my table saw I: check fence is secure and square check blade depth matches work piece check riving knife and blade cover are set check entry and exit for the workpiece make sure i'm not in the kickback zone check i can hit the estop with my knee check hearing protection check eye protection double check i'm still not in the kickback zone it's dumb and annoying but doing it every single time is how i have never been hit by kickback and have all my fingat (i've posted itt about how my paternal line has a bad history with table saws and fingats)
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Aug 4, 2020 19:03
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I just bought a cheap lathe on amazon because I'm going crazy. I want to use it to make chess pieces and harry potter wands out of scrap wood. Is this the correct thread for posting in?
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Aug 4, 2020 20:09
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Rutibex posted:I just bought a cheap lathe on amazon because I'm going crazy. I want to use it to make chess pieces and harry potter wands out of scrap wood. Is this the correct thread for posting in? Probably Definitely
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Aug 4, 2020 20:38
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Absolutely.
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Aug 4, 2020 20:46
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Rutibex posted:I just bought a cheap lathe on amazon because I'm going crazy. I want to use it to make chess pieces and harry potter wands out of scrap wood. Is this the correct thread for posting in? Looking forward to these cool project ideas
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Aug 4, 2020 22:04
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Rutibex posted:I just bought a cheap lathe on amazon because I'm going crazy. I want to use it to make chess pieces and harry potter wands out of scrap wood. Is this the correct thread for posting in? What kind of lathe is it? Did you get a set of chisels yet? Have you turned anything before? Welcome to your new money pit..I mean hobby.
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Aug 4, 2020 22:08
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Rutibex posted:I just bought a cheap lathe on amazon because I'm going crazy. I want to use it to make chess pieces and harry potter wands out of scrap wood. Is this the correct thread for posting in?  I’ll warn you now that long and skinny things like wands are one of the more difficult things to turn, but you’ll have fun! If you want to turn little intricate stuff like chess pieces, you can make your own tiny and cheap scrapers by grinding small files to shape, but that might be putting the cart before the horse.
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Aug 4, 2020 22:49
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JEEVES420 posted:What kind of lathe is it? Did you get a set of chisels yet? Have you turned anything before? This is the lathe that I got. Its not a big expensive one just a little hobby one. I assumed WEN was alright, I have a dremel tool from them and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/WEN-3421-3-2-Amp-Variable-Benchtop/dp/B07ZG9VTT2/ I got these chisels (are they any good?) and also a chuck: https://www.amazon.com/PSI-Woodworking-LCMINI2-5-Piece-Turning/dp/B000KIAE08/ There was a storm recently and a bunch of dead branches fell into the street. I cut them up with my hand saw and squirreled them into the back yard. I've turned a small billy club in highschool shop class but that was many years ago. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you want to turn little intricate stuff like chess pieces, you can make your own tiny and cheap scrapers by grinding small files to shape, but that might be putting the cart before the horse. In my research I saw this clip and I was intrigued by the idea of making such a thing. I do have a grinder so I could make these tools in theory  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UesVNS7uEyQ&t=205s Rutibex fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 22:54
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GEMorris posted:Remembering why I dipped out of this thread awhile back with a quickness but.... Ah yes, the great bandsaw vs table saw debate of 2018 or around there, we lost a few thread regulars to that one. Glad you're back. When I moved a couple years ago I had to get rid of my bandsaw because I actually didn't have the ceiling height in this place. That will be changing soon when I move and get a new one, can't wait, I've got my eyes on an 18" Laguna.
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Aug 5, 2020 01:16
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Rutibex posted:This is the lathe that I got. Its not a big expensive one just a little hobby one. I assumed WEN was alright, I have a dremel tool from them and it works great: Lathess are about the simplest woodworking machines in existence and so I doubt they can screw one up too badly. The motor may be a little underpowered, but for small work it should be fine. The chisels probably won't come sharp, but figuring out how to sharpen and grind lathe tools to your liking is about 40% of learning to turn anyway. Like carving, sharp matters on the lathe. For a beginner, scrapers are a bit easier to use and sharpen than gouges/skews. Meow Meow Meow posted:Ah yes, the great bandsaw vs table saw debate of 2018 or around there, we lost a few thread regulars to that one. Glad you're back. I got my 24" Laguna used and somewhat abused, but it's been a great saw with plenty of rear end, even if it's not quite the 38" Crescent beast I was used to using. Eats up 16/4 stuff all day no problem, and the blade stays tight, straight, and square enough that I'm pretty comfortable using it for joinery. There are some things I don't love about the fence and dust collection is eh (like every bandsaw), but it's a very good saw. The Laguna ceramic guide system is really good and easy to adjust-I don't think you'll go wrong with one. IDK if ACM in Italy builds the 18" ones too, but they make really good bandsaws.
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Aug 5, 2020 02:45
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I regret cheaping out and getting a small budget bandsaw. I wanted it primarily for resawing but it's so underpowered it struggles to do much but stall and squeal.
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Aug 5, 2020 02:46
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I don't understand why bandsaw dust collection is so bad. You'd think the dust would want to go almost entirely down into the lower wheel housing and thence to the dust collector, but it gets everywhere. I mean, it's worse without the dust collector, but why isn't the dust behaving the way I'd expect?
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Aug 5, 2020 04:35
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Spoked wheels on your bandsaw? They want to fling it around and add a lot of turbulence. That's a big reason Matthias homemade saws are so nicely behaved.
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Aug 5, 2020 13:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I don't understand why bandsaw dust collection is so bad. You'd think the dust would want to go almost entirely down into the lower wheel housing and thence to the dust collector, but it gets everywhere. I mean, it's worse without the dust collector, but why isn't the dust behaving the way I'd expect? The newer Jets have a dust chute right under the table as well as down in the bottom wheel housing. Works better but I don't think there is a perfect answer...to any tool really. You should try cutting up resin blocks on the bandsaw. White feathers floating everywhere and it loves to stick to everything inside the wheel housings.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:34
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JEEVES420 posted:The newer Jets have a dust chute right under the table as well as down in the bottom wheel housing. Works better but I don't think there is a perfect answer...to any tool really. My ten year old Craftsman (looks like a Rikon build) has the dust chute under the table too. It's worked pretty darn well for me.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:39
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Huh, yeah, I guess the spokes in the wheels would create a lot of turbulence. I've seen videos of people turning resin on the lathe and the amount of mess they make is just absurd.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:44
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But the constant ribbon is so satisfying. Plus you look like a tinsel covered christmas tree when your done.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:52
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Just add more suction power
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Aug 5, 2020 15:01
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Anyone have thoughts on geetech? There is an 8" jointer made in 96 for a decent price on Craigslist.
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Aug 5, 2020 17:18
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JEEVES420 posted:Anyone have thoughts on geetech? There is an 8" jointer made in 96 for a decent price on Craigslist. Never seen anything in person, but from google it looks like they are In Taiwan and made stuff for JET and maybe Powermatic too so it’s probably decent, if basic? Looks like they are wedge/dovetail bed not parallelogram? There’s not too much to screw up on a jointer as long as the tables are flat/not warped.
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Aug 5, 2020 17:35
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All this lathe chat has me worked up and looking at lathes. I have a large severance package and an excessive amount of time coming up soon and I'm wondering if now is the time to take the plunge. Whats a good place to start? I'm thinking mini lathe, set of chisels, and a small bench grinder for sharpening. What sort of price range is "cheap but won't explode in your face/make you hate everything"?
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Aug 5, 2020 18:07
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Super Waffle posted:All this lathe chat has me worked up and looking at lathes. I have a large severance package and an excessive amount of time coming up soon and I'm wondering if now is the time to take the plunge. Whats a good place to start? I'm thinking mini lathe, set of chisels, and a small bench grinder for sharpening. What sort of price range is "cheap but won't explode in your face/make you hate everything"? I've mostly been looking at the amazon reviews. I won't touch any tools with less than 100 reviews and a good rating. There are a lot of sketchy tools that offer an extra $10 off, but they have like 10 reviews and who knows those could all be the seller. But my first choice would be a pawn shop. You can get a used DeWalt or whatever for 1/4 the normal price, because it was stolen and pawned for meth money.
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Aug 5, 2020 18:14
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Super Waffle posted:All this lathe chat has me worked up and looking at lathes. I have a large severance package and an excessive amount of time coming up soon and I'm wondering if now is the time to take the plunge. Whats a good place to start? I'm thinking mini lathe, set of chisels, and a small bench grinder for sharpening. What sort of price range is "cheap but won't explode in your face/make you hate everything"? Rikon mini lathe, set of carbide tools, Chuck. Puts you around 800-1000. Rikon is decently priced and powerful enough to turn anything. It's built well with cast iron bed and all metal construction. Carbide will let you turn without needing a grinder/jig as you can get replacement blades for around $15 or sharpen them on a wet stone. Not to mention more forgiving for new turners. A good Chuck will let you grip from one side to turn hollow forms like bowls, cases, boxes. Top of the to buy list IMO. After that it all depends what you want to turn (ie pen mandrel)
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Aug 5, 2020 18:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Never seen anything in person, but from google it looks like they are In Taiwan and made stuff for JET and maybe Powermatic too so it’s probably decent, if basic? Looks like they are wedge/dovetail bed not parallelogram? There’s not too much to screw up on a jointer as long as the tables are flat/not warped. That's what I was reading too. What is the drawback to dovetail versus parallelogram? I assume any replacement brand 8" dovetail blades will fit?
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Aug 5, 2020 18:29
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