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Final Blog Entry posted:Where the drywall is torn and has exposed the paper you need to prime with a specific primer like Zinsser Gardz or Sherwin Williams Drywall Conditioner. Otherwise you'll likely get bubbling when you paint over those areas. B-Nasty posted:Always keep in mind that professionals do drywall slightly differently, because they have time constraints that a homeowner doesn't have. In short, you can use the green lid all purpose mud for, wait for it, all purposes. It's actually much better stuff than quick dry, dust control, or light mud, it just takes way longer to dry (which pros don't want to wait for.) You may want to thin it slightly by adding water for skimming, but if you apply enough pressure with a wide knife, you'll be fine. https://imgur.com/a/MWdvwbo I've been tackling this wall all day. If I do the whole bathroom, I'm going to develop arthritis. Plan B. Skim coat over this bullshit. I've been washing this with soap and fabric softener. What do I need to prime this with so it won't crumble to pieces the moment the mud dries?
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Aug 3, 2020 20:20
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How old is the house? If it was built before 1976--be aware of lead paint. Sanding lead paint isn't a great thing to do. If lead paint could be an issue, another option--pull off all the moulding and put 1/4" drywall over everything. Get a drywall banjo like the Homax 6500 (https://smile.amazon.com/Drywall-Taping-Silver-Black-Dispenser/dp/B074M7BW77) to tape your seams and corners and then just worry about mudding part of the wall versus skim coating everything. Skim coating is not an easy job for a 1st time DIYer. Mudding sucks. The problem with adding 1/4" drywall is all your electrical boxes are now 1/4" deeper in the wall. But on the other hand--you'll be able to finish the walls with a smooth texture, if that is something you'd want.
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Aug 3, 2020 20:42
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HycoCam posted:How old is the house? If it was built before 1976--be aware of lead paint. Sanding lead paint isn't a great thing to do. Time is ticking and I still have a lot of painting left to do.
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Aug 3, 2020 21:03
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HycoCam posted:How old is the house? If it was built before 1976--be aware of lead paint. Sanding lead paint isn't a great thing to do. Your trim will also be 1/4" off too once you put it back. You may have to cut some shorter.
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Aug 3, 2020 22:54
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I have a window in my bathroom with a painted wood windowsill in the shower. Ideally I want to take this out and replace it at some point since it's pretty old, but that's not really a corona-times project. I noticed some of the paint on the underside of the sill is cracking/peeling and exposing the wood, so I'd like something that I can use for a medium-term solution to just keep it from getting wet. Any suggestions?
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Aug 3, 2020 23:48
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A banjo is one of those things that looks slick when I see a video of a pro using one, but would ultimately cause me to gently caress it up.
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Aug 4, 2020 00:06
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Oops
obi_ant fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Aug 4, 2020 |
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Aug 4, 2020 00:42
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Badger of Basra posted:I have a window in my bathroom with a painted wood windowsill in the shower. Ideally I want to take this out and replace it at some point since it's pretty old, but that's not really a corona-times project. I noticed some of the paint on the underside of the sill is cracking/peeling and exposing the wood, so I'd like something that I can use for a medium-term solution to just keep it from getting wet. Any suggestions? Scrape the paint off, slap a coat of primer and semi-gloss paint on there.
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Aug 4, 2020 04:46
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:A banjo is one of those things that looks slick when I see a video of a pro using one, but would ultimately cause me to gently caress it up.
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Aug 4, 2020 07:50
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So, Hurricane Hanna chewed up my fence something fierce and it needs to be replaced (thankfully, there was no other damage to the house). The problem is that there's a cedar shortage nationwide because of the shutdowns and several contractors have said that it might be months before we're restocked in my part of Texas. One of them said, however, that pine will last as long as long as it's treated with a water-sealer or painted every few years, it should last just as long as cedar. Is this true? I heard that pine lasts 7-10 years at most and cedar is more like 15-25.
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Aug 4, 2020 12:55
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I've been painting for a few days and covering my roller ina plastic bag. It feels noticeably heavier. How do I clean this up? Do I need to get one of those 5 in 1 tolls and squeeze the roller off?
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Aug 4, 2020 14:04
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Bioshuffle posted:I've been painting for a few days and covering my roller ina plastic bag. It feels noticeably heavier. How do I clean this up? Do I need to get one of those 5 in 1 tolls and squeeze the roller off? Rollers covers are disposable. It's not worth the effort or water to try to wash it off. That's why they sell roller covers in multi-packs. Obviously, the handle/frame itself can be wiped down and reused.
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Aug 4, 2020 16:03
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B-Nasty posted:Rollers covers are disposable. It's not worth the effort or water to try to wash it off. It's my favorite dad joke to say "want to see how a professional painter cleans a roller?" and then drop it in the trash.
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Aug 4, 2020 18:54
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B-Nasty posted:Rollers covers are disposable. It's not worth the effort or water to try to wash it off. I tried cleaning one recently... after that it left a ton of hairs and performed pretty badly. I ended up having to sand and repaint... definitely not worth the $2 or whatever it was.
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Aug 5, 2020 02:01
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Thanks! I'll pick up another pack when I'm at Home Depot. Any recommendations for a cutting brush? I feel like after a few runs the whole brush turns into a globby mess of paint. On a side note, this is crumbly. Why is it crumbly at the edges and what do I use to patch it? Can I just mud it, paint it and caulk it?
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Aug 5, 2020 03:15
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B-Nasty posted:Rollers covers are disposable. It's not worth the effort or water to try to wash it off. It's not hard to clean them if you've got one of those five in ones, and they leave a little bit better finish after the first use knocks down a little bit of lint. Only use them 3-5 times though
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Aug 5, 2020 03:29
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Bioshuffle posted:Thanks! I'll pick up another pack when I'm at Home Depot. Any recommendations for a cutting brush? I feel like after a few runs the whole brush turns into a globby mess of paint. You're dipping your brush too deep, not washing it adequately, it's too cheap, or a combination thereof. Something like Purdy or Wooster for $10-30 per brush is what you need. You'll wind up with a bunch over time, but they last forever with appropriate care every time. The bristles are two tone, that is your depth indicator. Dip the brush until you almost can't see the indicator on the bristles, hold it there for way longer than you think, then brush. 10s is too short, 30s is probably correct, I tend to get bored aroun 15s. Redip regularly. You will get a feel for it quickly. The first few fills will hold much less paint than the rest of them. If you go deeper than the indicator it will be hard to clean it properly. When done, wash liberally with free flowing water, no soap needed. You're going to take probably 5 minutes a brush to clean them - you really need to get in there between the bristles, pressing it into the bottom of the sink link you're painting is a good way to do it. When you think you're done another burst of color will find its way out so keep going until the water has run clean for a couple deep brushings. Shake excess off and air dry. Now wipe up the painty splatters you just put all over your sink and counter. It doesn't need to be bone dry to reuse it. Do not bag them for overnight, I sometimes wash them just to eat lunch if it's hot out. Plan ahead to give yourself time to clean after painting. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Purdy-XL-Dale-Nylon-Polyester-Blend-Angle-2-in-Paint-Brush/1000506133 is probably just right for cutting in. Seems a little cheap so eyeball it in the store. Buy the nice roller handle, the nicer tray, the niceish rollers, nice brushes, a couple of drop clothes in various sizes, and a fat stack of $1 tray liners. Head on over to the broom section and grab a broom handle for your nice roller. Or get overcharged or something fancy in the paint section, but for how little I paint I go with a bog standard wooden broom handle. Color change ceiling paint will change your life. For patching and touchup , buy a 10-for-$10 pack at the very bottom shelf. Use once, discard. Take pictures of your paint codes, put them in google drive. Name them the room, brand, type, and sheen.
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Aug 5, 2020 04:02
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This is good advice, thank you! Are there any down sides to continuing the use the same tray liner?
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Aug 5, 2020 04:20
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Bioshuffle posted:This is good advice, thank you! Are there any down sides to continuing the use the same tray liner? No I just toss em as it makes sense, which tends to be if I change color mid-day. If they're super dry and thinly coated I reuse em the next day. They're a buck. It saves you from having to wash the tray. It's the cheapest part of painting. Good luck. I was sorta where you are 5 years ago. Stick with it and you will learn a ton. This forum and its nobullshit (if brusque sometimes) members have saved me literally thousands of dollars in diy mishaps. For example, there are two ways to deal with wall paper and both involve new drywall. 
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Aug 5, 2020 05:03
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H110Hawk posted:No I just toss em as it makes sense, which tends to be if I change color mid-day. If they're super dry and thinly coated I reuse em the next day. They're a buck. It saves you from having to wash the tray. It's the cheapest part of painting. A few pages back I posted about my debacle with wall paper. A few contractors later, I have a freshly skin coated wall. They left me some easy 25 mud. I was told to let it sit for a day, then I will sand parts of it smooth and paint over it. I'm realizing more and more that you can gently caress things up, but it's not a big deal since you can always fix it.
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Aug 5, 2020 05:13
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Bioshuffle posted:This is good advice, thank you! Are there any down sides to continuing the use the same tray liner? Also, think about getting a disc sander. (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Radius360-Pole-Sander-R360/204808490) Put that disc sander on a nice long handle and you can sand your walls in minutes. Game changer. And if you have hallways to paint--in addition to your broom stick pole--snap a cheap metal broom stick at about 18", wrap it in tape so you don't cut yourself and roll the hall. Oh and while spending your money--a "work platform" or two makes cutting and the all the work you do over your head a lot easier. (https://www.homedepot.com/p/WERNER-39-1-2-in-x-12-in-x-20-9-16-in-Aluminum-Work-Platform-with-225-lb-Load-Capacity-AP-20/100662616)
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Aug 5, 2020 06:10
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Bioshuffle posted:I'm realizing more and more that you can gently caress things up, but it's not a big deal since you can always fix it. 
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Aug 5, 2020 06:11
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I didn't even think about the dried paint. I'll stop by and get some new tray liners today. My door that leads to the backyard is sagging so bad the previous owners removed the strike plate so the dead bolt will work. I came across several ways to fix it. Shim the hinges, align the door hinges with a crescent wrench or similar, or bolster the top hinge with a longer screw. Which of these solutions is the more permanent fix? If I replace with a longer screw, what screw should I use? Do I need to drill a pilot hole first?
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Aug 5, 2020 13:12
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HycoCam posted:The difference between being pro and DIY is just learning not to say poo poo and/or gently caress every time you screw up. Imma be amateur my whole life
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Aug 5, 2020 13:19
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Slugworth posted:Also making one trip to Home Depot in the middle of a project vs making two to three.  What the hell is this, why is it crumbly? And how do I fix it?
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Aug 5, 2020 13:33
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In regards to re-using rollers/brushes/liners, my wife will bag it and put it in the refrigerator if doing a multi-day job. She swears by it and only cleans brushes when she's done with the job.
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Aug 5, 2020 13:56
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angryrobots posted:In regards to re-using rollers/brushes/liners, my wife will bag it and put it in the refrigerator if doing a multi-day job. She swears by it and only cleans brushes when she's done with the job.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:34
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Roller covers are absolutely disposable. It seems no matter how many times you you rinse and squeegee a roller cover, more paint will come out. It's frustrating a poo poo and not worth the time it takes.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:43
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Bioshuffle posted:I've been to home depot almost every single day since starting the pre-move in projects. welcome to homeownership. I'd make lists of poo poo I needed to fix and go home depot and drop 1-200 a week for awhile. I had a P100 mask and gloves because especially at the start of covid the stores were insane lots of people etc.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:51
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tater_salad posted:welcome to homeownership. I'd make lists of poo poo I needed to fix and go home depot and drop 1-200 a week for awhile. I had a P100 mask and gloves because especially at the start of covid the stores were insane lots of people etc. I work in this industry.. (hardware/lumber stores) I can tell you that it has never stopped being insane. Almost every one of our store locations broke sales and transaction count records several times over this year thus far. During the initial lockdown several of our stores where curbside pickup only. We had wait times exceeding 1 hour at a couple locations to pickup items. The parking lot would be literally full of people just waiting in line.
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Aug 5, 2020 14:59
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I went to a home depot yesterday and it was the deadest I'd seen it in 4 months, there were only 40-60 cars in the lot instead of 150+
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Aug 5, 2020 15:02
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Home Depot is just adult Toys R Us
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Aug 5, 2020 15:19
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Forced curbside pickup would save me so much money by preventing me from wandering the tool aisle and picking up a box of extra bits for my driver, maybe a three pack of razor knives and oooh can you ever have too many hammers
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Aug 5, 2020 15:35
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Our local DIY store has no painting supplies or timber, yet there's always a dozen or more people milling around in the empty aisles as if the staff are going to take pity on them and conjure something up.
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Aug 5, 2020 15:49
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cakesmith handyman posted:Our local DIY store has no painting supplies or timber, yet there's always a dozen or more people milling around in the empty aisles as if the staff are going to take pity on them and conjure something up. We are having a hard time getting lumber at all our stores. We had bought ahead several months of typical supply, but exhausted that much faster than anticipated. Treated is all but impossible to get and some regular products are running out too. People are building like mad around our area, but there are no materials to be had. Every subdivision has multiple houses going up at the same time. Its insane. Pricing on lumber is also going through the roof. (pun intended). We have people calling from 2-3 states away to see if we have lumber in stock.
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Aug 5, 2020 15:54
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Yeah treated lumber has been incredibly hard to get in certain dimensions around here.
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Aug 5, 2020 16:00
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Do flush mount light fixtures and/or electrical boxes have different spacing? I've started taking down ceiling fans that weren't properly braced or well placed in my house. When I took down one, I found that I couldn't put one of the extra light fixtures I have on hand. I measured it, and it looks like its mount holes are 2.75" apart, but the holes in the electrical box were 3.5". I'm going from memory here though. Does that sound right? Should pretty much any fixture I pick up in the store work? Also, are these braces decent? They'd be used with <30" fans for now, but maybe a 42" later if I work up the courage.
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Aug 5, 2020 20:41
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Bioshuffle posted:I've been to home depot almost every single day since starting the pre-move in projects. And don't get the cheapest caulk gun you can find--go with something like: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS5GO Have a wet rag and way to get your finger wet to smooth out the bead. e: rndmnmbr is right about don't cover up water damage and walk away without making sure it will stay dry--if it is water damage and not just deterioration over time HycoCam fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 21:30
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Bioshuffle posted:
Looks like plaster that's not sticking to whatever's backing it. Being right beside a window it could be water damage behind it. But you're not going to know until you chip it out and look. There's no quick and easy fix that won't deteriorate the same in short order. e. If that's drywall, it's definitely water damage. How's the exterior caulking look on that window? rndmnmbr fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Aug 5, 2020 |
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Aug 5, 2020 21:33
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nitsuga posted:Do flush mount light fixtures and/or electrical boxes have different spacing? And yes--that ceiling box will work, if you can get it into the hole. Slide it up in the ceiling, turn it so the triangle ends are facing the joists and twist the center to tighten to the joists, then tighten the electrical box in place.
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Aug 5, 2020 21:36
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