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Jazz Marimba: Jan 4, 2012

d0grent posted:

bro imagine plugging in a usb cable on the first try every time

or even the second. usually takes 3�4 tries, what with them being five dimensional objects and all

# ? Aug 10, 2020 07:42

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# ? May 9, 2024 21:50

chippy: Aug 16, 2006; OK I DON'T GET IT

Achmed Jones posted:

I've never had a pinto burst into flames on me but that doesn't mean I'm aching to buy one

Realtalk USB-C is a different (but backwards compatible) protocol: in addition to a change in form factor it's also a change like the one from USB to USB2 and USB2 to USB3, plus it can deliver significantly more power than those. The 8i6 at least still needs DC-in though; not sure if it'd take all its power from the bus if I were using a C<->C cord but I'd guess not.

being able to take a direct usbc means that the hardware won't look old and out of date in a couple years. We're still transitioning to C now so most people still have A ports on their computer, but that'll go away as time passes and presumably focusrite will be selling these for the next few years. Micro is completely superseded by C because micro is just a tiny B, which generally means it can't go faster than USB3. Micro isn't half as fragile as mini though

Oh also the most important thing if you're a dumbass like me: there's no "backwards" on USBC

It's my understanding that the form factor (USB-C) and protocols (USB4 etc.) are different things, although the protocols can only be delivered over USB-C. Is that not the case? Otherwise USB-A to USB-C cable wouldn't be a thing surely?

Yeah I use a USB-A to USB-C cable for my 18i20 but I think it would still need its mains power lead either way.

chippy fucked around with this message at 10:13 on Aug 10, 2020

# ? Aug 10, 2020 10:11

Lead out in cuffs: Sep 18, 2012; "That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."

chippy posted:

It's my understanding that the form factor (USB-C) and protocols (USB4 etc.) are different things, although the protocols can only be delivered over USB-C. Is that not the case? Otherwise USB-A to USB-C cable wouldn't be a thing surely?

I'm pretty sure that's the case. Even USB 3.0 needs special connectors with five extra pins. You can plug four-pin cables into a USB 3.0 receptacle, but it won't give you speeds any faster than USB 2.0.

Likewise, USB-C has another two pairs of data pins (plus a bunch of extra power pins), so to get the fastest USB 3.2 and USB 4.0 speeds, you need to connect USB-C to USB-C.

There is a "superspeed" USB-A plug with the pins for USB 3.0, but I don't know if you can put that on one end of a cable with USB-C on the other. (The one that came with my phone is just four-pin A to USB-C.)

Anyway, for recording purposes, apparently this is all moot, since audio doesn't actually need anything faster than USB2.0, even for something like the 18i20. And for MIDI you need even less (although I think there are latency gains for USB 2 over USB 1). That might also explain why hardware is still being built and shipped with USB-B plugs, even today.

https://support.focusrite.com/hc/en-gb/articles/208095469-USB-2-0-vs-USB-3-0

# ? Aug 10, 2020 18:19

chippy: Aug 16, 2006; OK I DON'T GET IT

Lead out in cuffs posted:

Anyway, for recording purposes, apparently this is all moot, since audio doesn't actually need anything faster than USB2.0, even for something like the 18i20. And for MIDI you need even less (although I think there are latency gains for USB 2 over USB 1). That might also explain why hardware is still being built and shipped with USB-B plugs, even today.

https://support.focusrite.com/hc/en-gb/articles/208095469-USB-2-0-vs-USB-3-0

Yeah this was my understanding too. USB 3 doesn't offer any latency improvements over USB 2, and the extra bandwidth isn't needed, so the only real advantage is the USB-C form factor. Personally my interface only used away from my desk maybe once or twice a year, so that's largely irrelevant to me.

I get that USB-C is reversible and that's convenient but I just never really had issues plugging in a Micro USB, even when I had one on my phone and had to plug it in ever day. And I never had a jack fail on me, only cables.

# ? Aug 11, 2020 09:20

Achmed Jones: Oct 16, 2004

Yeah that's how i understand it as well re: latency and bandwidth. I thought that usb A <->C cables were chipped, though, and required active downgrade from the implicit protocol used by C and the 3/2/1 protocol used by A. I wouldn't be surprised to be wrong about that though.

# ? Aug 11, 2020 15:08

chippy: Aug 16, 2006; OK I DON'T GET IT

Achmed Jones posted:

Yeah that's how i understand it as well re: latency and bandwidth. I thought that usb A <->C cables were chipped, though, and required active downgrade from the implicit protocol used by C and the 3/2/1 protocol used by A. I wouldn't be surprised to be wrong about that though.

Hmm, not sure. I know USB 3.1 cables contain a chip that communicates capabilites/vendor/protocol support etc. But I don't know that a USB-A 2.0 to USB-C cable does. I would think not. In that case it's just using the USB-C form factor at one end. I really don't know though to be honest.

# ? Aug 11, 2020 17:05

Seventh Arrow: Jan 26, 2005

I'm looking for audio interface recommendations. My current AI is an ancient M-Audio Fast Track USB. I first bought it because I wanted a bunch of inputs for recording drums. That's no longer a need and I think the drivers were last updated during the Carter administration, so I really just want something with a guitar and a mic input to record my sketches. Asks:

solid driver support for Windows 10
works well with Cubase (7)
not sure about budget yet but let's start at $100-ish
do I even have to mention vst/midi support? Is that standard nowadays?
must like long walks on the beach and debates over whether Dark Side of the Moon actually syncs with Wizard of Oz

# ? Aug 13, 2020 01:04

Wowporn: May 31, 2012; HarumphHarumphHarumph

My only insight is that the drivers for my focusrite Scarlett were horrendous on the two windows 10 machines I used it on and I don't think I would recommend it

# ? Aug 13, 2020 02:50

Lead out in cuffs: Sep 18, 2012; "That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."

Wowporn posted:

My only insight is that the drivers for my focusrite Scarlett were horrendous on the two windows 10 machines I used it on and I don't think I would recommend it

FWIW my Scarlett (first gen) has been fine in Windows 10. In theory it's a class-compliant device which needs no drivers (it doesn't in Linux), although I'm running the Focusrite drivers anyway.

# ? Aug 13, 2020 09:07

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

Is there a way to remotely turn on my powered monitors (Yamaha HS-8) without them making a *Pop*THUDDD*crackle* noise

If I turn them on using the switch on the back they come on quietly/perfect as you'd expect from Yamaha. The problem is that the monitors are 24" deep and a pain to turn on/off every day so I just leave them on 24/7

We recently had a weird power outage where the power went on and off about 8 times. By the third time it happened I was able to track down the pop/thud noise and turn them off at the power strip, but then forgot and it made awful noises again when I turned the strip back on a couple hours later

TL;DR I'm dumb about tiring turning powered speakers on/off, ha;lp

# ? Aug 13, 2020 15:09

trilobite terror: Oct 20, 2007; BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Hadlock posted:

Is there a way to remotely turn on my powered monitors (Yamaha HS-8) without them making a *Pop*THUDDD*crackle* noise

If I turn them on using the switch on the back they come on quietly/perfect as you'd expect from Yamaha. The problem is that the monitors are 24" deep and a pain to turn on/off every day so I just leave them on 24/7

We recently had a weird power outage where the power went on and off about 8 times. By the third time it happened I was able to track down the pop/thud noise and turn them off at the power strip, but then forgot and it made awful noises again when I turned the strip back on a couple hours later

TL;DR I'm dumb about tiring turning powered speakers on/off, ha;lp

I had a similar question about my 305s, though they don�t seem to pop as often as your HS8s (I usually turn down the monitor output vol from the mixer first tho, do you do that?)

# ? Aug 13, 2020 15:36

Flipperwaldt: Nov 11, 2011; Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?

Hadlock posted:

Is there a way to remotely turn on my powered monitors (Yamaha HS-8) without them making a *Pop*THUDDD*crackle* noise

I got a y-shaped power lead and plugged it into one of those dumb (non-smart) remote controlled power plugs you can get for $10-15. Works great, no popping.

# ? Aug 13, 2020 17:38

Spanish Manlove: Aug 31, 2008; HAILGAYSATAN

Hadlock posted:

Is there a way to remotely turn on my powered monitors (Yamaha HS-8) without them making a *Pop*THUDDD*crackle* noise

If I turn them on using the switch on the back they come on quietly/perfect as you'd expect from Yamaha. The problem is that the monitors are 24" deep and a pain to turn on/off every day so I just leave them on 24/7

We recently had a weird power outage where the power went on and off about 8 times. By the third time it happened I was able to track down the pop/thud noise and turn them off at the power strip, but then forgot and it made awful noises again when I turned the strip back on a couple hours later

TL;DR I'm dumb about tiring turning powered speakers on/off, ha;lp

Extension cord
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Extension-Cords-Surge-Protectors-Extension-Cords/N-5yc1vZc4ne

A switch
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Single-Pole-Toggle-Light-Switch-White-R52-01451-02W/100026991?modalType=drawer

And probably a wooden box to keep it in so you don't just have exposed wires

# ? Aug 13, 2020 19:10

Lead out in cuffs: Sep 18, 2012; "That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."

Spanish Manlove posted:

Extension cord
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Extension-Cords-Surge-Protectors-Extension-Cords/N-5yc1vZc4ne

A switch
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Single-Pole-Toggle-Light-Switch-White-R52-01451-02W/100026991?modalType=drawer

And probably a wooden box to keep it in so you don't just have exposed wires

I'd probably used one of these, rather: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-6-Outlet-Power-Strip-with-45-Angle-Plug-YLPT-90/203353677

Or a remote control one like was suggested above.

# ? Aug 14, 2020 05:44

chippy: Aug 16, 2006; OK I DON'T GET IT

Wowporn posted:

My only insight is that the drivers for my focusrite Scarlett were horrendous on the two windows 10 machines I used it on and I don't think I would recommend it

Lead out in cuffs posted:

FWIW my Scarlett (first gen) has been fine in Windows 10. In theory it's a class-compliant device which needs no drivers (it doesn't in Linux), although I'm running the Focusrite drivers anyway.

Same, I've used 2nd and 3rd Focusrite interfaces on Windows 10 and had no driver issues at all.

# ? Aug 14, 2020 10:26

Flipperwaldt: Nov 11, 2011; Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?

Lead out in cuffs posted:

I'd probably used one of these, rather: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-6-Outlet-Power-Strip-with-45-Angle-Plug-YLPT-90/203353677

Or a remote control one like was suggested above.

This is what I had before the remote control and the switches on power strips that I have seen are designed so poorly. They can easily be held in a half open state and will arc a lot even if you're doing your absolute best to avoid that. The arcing will make the speakers pop. An actual light switch might be designed to avoid that. It still probably isn't going to be as fast as the relay in those remote controlled plugs though. So there's a legit electrical reason to go with them in this case.

# ? Aug 14, 2020 13:48

Hadlock: Nov 9, 2004

Yeah they're already plugged in to surge/power strips. Flipping them on/off at the strip causes the krak-pow noises. Flipping them off at the panel on the rear is the only way to power them off without the noise

Not sure what you're suggesting by putting it on a light switch? Are you suggesting it is a cleaner contact to the mains power? This seems to happen independent of external switch type

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Aug 17, 2020

# ? Aug 17, 2020 01:26

trilobite terror: Oct 20, 2007; BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

Hadlock posted:

Yeah they're already plugged in to surge/power strips. Flipping them on/off at the strip causes the krak-pow noises. Flipping them off at the panel on the rear is the only way to power them off without the noise

Not sure what you're suggesting by putting it on a light switch? Are you suggesting it is a cleaner contact to the mains power? This seems to happen independent of external switch type

Do you turn down the gain/volume on your interface when you shut them down? I find that tends to help with mine.

# ? Aug 17, 2020 01:37

Flipperwaldt: Nov 11, 2011; Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?

Hadlock posted:

Not sure what you're suggesting by putting it on a light switch? Are you suggesting it is a cleaner contact to the mains power? This seems to happen independent of external switch type

The Technology Connections guy did a video on the subject. It's not about a cleaner contact, it's about how literally fast the switch switches from on to off. This differs between switch designs.

Anyway, forget about the light switch. A product similar to this is superior and won't have you cut up a power lead.

# ? Aug 17, 2020 01:55

Uncleanly Cleric: Oct 17, 2005

Maybe y'all can help me out here.

I'm having a hell of a time with Garageband deciding to, what seems like, reduce the gain coming from my interface to the DAW, but only on my microphone. D/I instruments are fine.

I'm running:
2018 Macbook Pro 15" on Catalina

My USB interface is a Zoom R16 in USB mode, which is connected via a USB-C dock.

The mic is on input 5 with the phantom power enabled (if not, the mic doesn't pick up anything at all)

The mic itself is a Sennhieser MK4, I also tested with a Shure SM57, and had the same issue.

Again, D/I a guitar, and it's fine, but vocals are so so quiet.

# ? Aug 19, 2020 16:53

Lead out in cuffs: Sep 18, 2012; "That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."

Uncleanly Cleric posted:

Maybe y'all can help me out here.

I'm having a hell of a time with Garageband deciding to, what seems like, reduce the gain coming from my interface to the DAW, but only on my microphone. D/I instruments are fine.

I'm running:
2018 Macbook Pro 15" on Catalina

My USB interface is a Zoom R16 in USB mode, which is connected via a USB-C dock.

The mic is on input 5 with the phantom power enabled (if not, the mic doesn't pick up anything at all)

The mic itself is a Sennhieser MK4, I also tested with a Shure SM57, and had the same issue.

Again, D/I a guitar, and it's fine, but vocals are so so quiet.

Are you saying that the levels sound correct when you monitor on headphones on the R16, but the microphones are then soft via the USB?

It's expected that mic level will be softer than guitar pickups, especially if they're high-gain.

https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/whats-the-difference-between-mic-instrument-line-and-speaker-level-signals/

# ? Aug 19, 2020 20:01

Uncleanly Cleric: Oct 17, 2005

Lead out in cuffs posted:

Are you saying that the levels sound correct when you monitor on headphones on the R16, but the microphones are then soft via the USB?

It's expected that mic level will be softer than guitar pickups, especially if they're high-gain.

https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/whats-the-difference-between-mic-instrument-line-and-speaker-level-signals/

Oh, sweet! i actually wasn't aware of this.

My solution so far has been to add a gain plugin to the recording to act as a sort of preamp, with the phantom power from the board, which works I suppose. Is there a better way that could be recommended?

Edit: I also just discovered that USB power only on the R16 could be to blame. I ordered an external power supply to try as well.

Uncleanly Cleric fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Aug 19, 2020

# ? Aug 19, 2020 20:36

Lead out in cuffs: Sep 18, 2012; "That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."

Uncleanly Cleric posted:

Oh, sweet! i actually wasn't aware of this.

My solution so far has been to add a gain plugin to the recording to act as a sort of preamp, with the phantom power from the board, which works I suppose. Is there a better way that could be recommended?

Edit: I also just discovered that USB power only on the R16 could be to blame. I ordered an external power supply to try as well.

Yeah it could be underpowering the mics.

In general you also want to adjust the gain on all your channels (on the R16) to get them into a good range (usually about as loud as possible without clipping). You want to do this on the fader on the board, since that's (presumably) the actual preamp that's first receiving the signal.

If you record soft and only adjust the gain afterwards in the DAW, you will definitely lose at least some quality because you'll be amplifying the noise as well.

Try searching for articles on "gain staging" if you want to learn more about this.

# ? Aug 19, 2020 21:26

Papa Was A Video Toaster: Jan 9, 2011

Looking for recommendations for a wireless computer keyboard for my studio. Desktop space is at a premium; my full keyboard often ends up in my lap and this one probably will as well.

Key features: small footprint, rugged, lightweight
Nice to haves: backlit, Bluetooth, trackpad
Please god no: chiclet keys

Edit: https://www.logitech.com/en-ca/product/wireless-illuminated-keyboard-k800.html?crid=27 I like this Logitech except it has a numpad.

Papa Was A Video Toaster fucked around with this message at 21:42 on Aug 19, 2020

# ? Aug 19, 2020 21:39

Uncleanly Cleric: Oct 17, 2005

Lead out in cuffs posted:

Yeah it could be underpowering the mics.

In general you also want to adjust the gain on all your channels (on the R16) to get them into a good range (usually about as loud as possible without clipping). You want to do this on the fader on the board, since that's (presumably) the actual preamp that's first receiving the signal.

If you record soft and only adjust the gain afterwards in the DAW, you will definitely lose at least some quality because you'll be amplifying the noise as well.

Try searching for articles on "gain staging" if you want to learn more about this.

Awesome! Thanks so much!

# ? Aug 19, 2020 22:12

NC Wyeth Death Cult: Dec 30, 2005; He lost his life in Chadds Ford, he was dancing with a train.

Does anyone have feelings pro/con about Presonus monitors? I like the preamp and headphone amp of their I have. Looking at the E44. Current have a pair or cheapie Rolands that make everything that comes out of them sound amazing but sounds dramatically different on anything else- like not even understandably, more like WTeverlastingChristF happened?

# ? Aug 31, 2020 16:35

NonzeroCircle: Apr 12, 2010; El Camino

I really like my Eris E5s, not loads of low end due to the size but I'm used to them, and when you do get it 'right' you know it. Some nice adjustments can be made in the back, dipswitches to cut up to 4db of lows if they arent placed perfectly (ie near walls/corners like mine have to be), switchable high-pass for if you use a sub with them like the Presonus companion one, and a couple of knobs for tweaking treble etc. They also accept a whole bunch of input types.
One thing I will say is they really benefit from being on stands, I got a pair of those £40 metal ones that raise them a few inches off the desk to ear levels, much better than the foam iso pads I had them on before because a) they're at the right height now and b) you don't get such false bass impressions. I'd say this is important for any monitors you end up with though.
They're my one set of speakers so as well as monitor duty they're also how I listen to music, play games etc, again helps build familiarity so if there's a song I know sounds good on a variety of systems like in my car, off a phone, and I can approximate that mix on the Erises whilst referencing I know it'll translate well elsewhere. Again, this would be the case with any monitors.
I'd like to have the E8s for but there wasn't a need at the time and I can't really justify them.

# ? Aug 31, 2020 22:14

AcidRonin: Apr 2, 2012; iM A ROOKiE RiGHT NOW BUT i PROMiSE YOU EVERY SiNGLE FUCKiN BiTCH ASS ARTiST WHO TRiES TO SHADE ME i WiLL VERBALLY DiSMANTLE YOUR ASSHOLE

Anybody using REAPER notice some UI weirdness in the last update? My mixer is now tiny and shoved over to the left and I can't seem to change it.

# ? Sep 1, 2020 01:36

Lead out in cuffs: Sep 18, 2012; "That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."

AcidRonin posted:

Anybody using REAPER notice some UI weirdness in the last update? My mixer is now tiny and shoved over to the left and I can't seem to change it.

I haven't actually updated to that yet, but Reaper has "themes" that control stuff like that, and my guess is that they changed the default theme. There's a menu option somewhere that lets you change back to older themes.

# ? Sep 1, 2020 02:02

AcidRonin: Apr 2, 2012; iM A ROOKiE RiGHT NOW BUT i PROMiSE YOU EVERY SiNGLE FUCKiN BiTCH ASS ARTiST WHO TRiES TO SHADE ME i WiLL VERBALLY DiSMANTLE YOUR ASSHOLE

Lead out in cuffs posted:

I haven't actually updated to that yet, but Reaper has "themes" that control stuff like that, and my guess is that they changed the default theme. There's a menu option somewhere that lets you change back to older themes.

So I thought that, but every theme retains the issue. Very odd.

# ? Sep 1, 2020 02:12

NC Wyeth Death Cult: Dec 30, 2005; He lost his life in Chadds Ford, he was dancing with a train.

NonzeroCircle posted:

I really like my Eris E5s, not loads of low end due to the size but I'm used to them, and when you do get it 'right' you know it. Some nice adjustments can be made in the back, dipswitches to cut up to 4db of lows if they arent placed perfectly (ie near walls/corners like mine have to be), switchable high-pass for if you use a sub with them like the Presonus companion one, and a couple of knobs for tweaking treble etc. They also accept a whole bunch of input types.
One thing I will say is they really benefit from being on stands, I got a pair of those £40 metal ones that raise them a few inches off the desk to ear levels, much better than the foam iso pads I had them on before because a) they're at the right height now and b) you don't get such false bass impressions. I'd say this is important for any monitors you end up with though.
They're my one set of speakers so as well as monitor duty they're also how I listen to music, play games etc, again helps build familiarity so if there's a song I know sounds good on a variety of systems like in my car, off a phone, and I can approximate that mix on the Erises whilst referencing I know it'll translate well elsewhere. Again, this would be the case with any monitors.
I'd like to have the E8s for but there wasn't a need at the time and I can't really justify them.

Terrific, thank you!

# ? Sep 1, 2020 21:14

guppy: Sep 21, 2004; sting like a byob

I'm wanting to set up Baby's First Home Recording Gear, except that I am slightly less green at this than a complete newbie would be, except that everything I know is pretty out of date. I've made some initial purchases, unwisely without asking here, and I am interested to know if the decisions I've already made are good or bad.

I played in a band in high school, and did a little recording, but with almost no training. At that time I was using a borrowed Roland digital 8-track recorder. I really like physical hardware controls for mixing, but really hate them for file management and the like. For similar reasons, I do not particularly like the Tascam PocketStudio (EX-008DP) that I own. Recording on a DAW is uncharted territory for me, but it's the direction I'm looking to head.

Currently, I am wanting to record acoustic guitar and some vocals. However, I play several instruments, and down the road I would like to have the option to expand as easily as possible. I have no idea whether I am going to do that or not, but I'm trying to make relatively modular setup, so that I can buy only what I need now but not build myself into a corner for later. My budget is not unlimited, but the main limiting factor is having to explain to my wife why I bought, say, a $1200 microphone. (I am not going to buy a $1200 microphone.) I would obviously like to keep things inexpensive since this is purely at the "dicking around" level at the moment, but I would rather pay a little more for not-garbage than spend a little less and hate my gear.

Currently in the mail:

Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 interface
On-Stage boom stand
Some XLR mic cables, I think already have some but you can never have too many, right
Cheap pop filter (Nady), I couldn't bring myself to spend more on this
USB-C to USB-A adapter (more on this in a minute)

I already own:

Various instruments
Sennheiser e835 mic
Assorted other cables
Both a reasonably capable Windows desktop and a MacBook Air
lovely studio monitors (I am aware I should replace these with not-lovely studio monitors)
Several pairs of good headphones, open- and closed-back
A lovely Behringer mixer, which I only own for emergency use when DJing -- I am aware that it is Not Good, and also that it does not provide adequate phantom power, and that I would want to replace it if I need a "good" mixer

I have some specific questions as well:

The desktop PC is several years old at this point, but it's an i5 3.4GHz Intel with 16GB of RAM. The MacBook Air is my DJ laptop and is only a 1.6GHz i5 with 8GB of RAM. Neither has native USB-C ports. Which of these should I work on? Is a USB-C - to - USB-A adapter a stupid idea that will cause me problems? Is it fine? Should I have bought a different interface? Do I really need to buy a USB-C card or a new computer? I do not care AT ALL about mobility or battery-powered recording. The desktop does have a USB 3.0 controller, the MacBook has whatever MacBook Airs had in... I don't know, 2016 maybe.
My decent mic (I do have a second, really lovely one), the Senn e835, was recommended to me as a decent all-rounder years ago by a random Guitar Center employee. Reviews seem pretty good, so I think he was telling the truth! Seems competitive with the SM58. It is, however, a dynamic mic and not a condenser. How much am I going to care about that? And how much am I going to care about not double-mic'ing an acoustic guitar?
I spent a lot of time vacillating between different audio interfaces, as well as considering the Zoom Livetrak L-8. My thinking with the 2i2 that I bought was that I could connect a mixer down the road if I needed more than 2 inputs simultaneously -- for example, I do own a set of 3 CAD drum mics -- I have no idea if they are any good, I have had them since high school, they were a gift and I don't even know the model -- and it's conceivable that I might want to use them eventually. Was this a bad plan? Would I have been happier with an interface with more inputs, or something like the Zoom? My goal was to make the design modular, so I could replace individual items if needed instead of having to replace everything, but I don't know if that's going to give me issues later. For example, if I use an external mixer to connect a bunch of drum mics to a single input on the interface, I'll be able to adjust them individually on the mixer before/during recording, but on the DAW I would only be able to work on the single "drums" input. How much am I going to care about that as a non-professional?
I own FruityLoops, which I bought a while ago to mess with electronic music production. It doesn't even get mentioned in the context of articles about DAWS for live recording; I think it's capable of it, but probably not great? I'm going to want to either buy something else or use Reaper for this, right?

That was a lot of lists. I like lists.

guppy fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Sep 15, 2020

# ? Sep 15, 2020 00:12

Paperhouse: Dec 31, 2008; I think
your hair
looks much
better
pushed
over to
one side

guppy posted:

[*] I own FruityLoops, which I bought a while ago to mess with electronic music production. It doesn't even get mentioned in the context of articles about DAWS for live recording; I think it's capable of it, but probably not great? I'm going to want to either buy something else or use Reaper for this, right?[/list]

That was a lot of lists. I like lists.

FL Studio is fine for recording audio, it's the DAW I use and I'm pretty happy with it.

I don't know how it compares to recording in other DAWs, but really they're all just different ways of doing the same things. Since you have it already and presumably have some experience with it, I would stick with FL Studio. It's good software.

# ? Sep 15, 2020 04:41

Achmed Jones: Oct 16, 2004

General rule: use what you have, and only upgrade if it doesn't work/you outgrow it. This goes for audio interfaces (including combination thereof with mixers), DAWs, computers, microphones, and USB protocols.

# ? Sep 15, 2020 05:37

Lead out in cuffs: Sep 18, 2012; "That's right. We've evolved."

"I can see that. Cool mutations."

Yeah you probably just hadn't realised it's called FLStudio instead of FruityLoops now. (I assume they got sued for trademark infringement or something?) FLStudio is definitely a widely-used DAW, and should have been mentioned in the articles you've been reading.

# ? Sep 15, 2020 07:38

sebmojo: Oct 23, 2010; Legit Cyberpunk

I prefer reaper but if it works for you and isn't audacity then it's good enough.

# ? Sep 15, 2020 08:40

massive spider: Dec 6, 2006

You do not need a condenser mic unless you want a condenser mic sound. The SM7b seems to be facing a resurgence recently with every YouTube musician using one and that�s a dynamic, which helps if you�re in a lovely room and you don�t want to capture more of your lovely room than necessary.

# ? Sep 15, 2020 09:41

panic state: Jun 11, 2019

How can I improve the bass response of my SM57? I'm primarily using it for voice right now, but it's extremely tinny. When I play back a recording I have to double check to make sure it's not playing over HDMI through my computer monitor's lovely speakers. Everything just drops off past 400 Hz.

Sample audio: https://voca.ro/1bGUI5oVWrcn

# ? Sep 16, 2020 02:00

sebmojo: Oct 23, 2010; Legit Cyberpunk

57s need to be very close to their target, they are basically drum mics you can use for other stuff

# ? Sep 16, 2020 11:28

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# ? May 9, 2024 21:50

massive spider: Dec 6, 2006

That recording sounds tinny even by SM57 standards though, something is wrong.

# ? Sep 16, 2020 12:38

The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > No More Drake > Musician's Lounge > HOME RECORDING MEGATHREAD: Rivensbitch Teaches Recording

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