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Three's network is hosed and there's nothing you can do about it https://forums.thinkbroadband.com/mobilebroadband/f/4636254-is-threes-network-struggling-at-the-moment-or-is-it-just-me.html
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Aug 8, 2020 12:57
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Balls, but thanks for that. I've struggled to even find a decent source for communal bitching about three. On the last page of that thread of sounds like someone had a similar "VPN fixed my problem" solution. Guess I could try using that Nord VPN I've seen plastered all over here over the last couple of years. Is it any good or just well marketed? Edit: Welp, just tested it (as they've got a 30 day refund period) and it seems to have worked except for tasks.office.com but i got a refused to connect error there now so i think it might be a security thing than Three being poo poo thing. I think the only snag with it is that apparently NordVPN doesn't support L2TP/IPsec and PPTP conections anymore which means I can't set it up at the router level. I have connection issues with my PS4 too so hoped this would solve it. Kin fucked around with this message at 14:19 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 13:37
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Also don’t use Hauwei anything unless you absolutely have to. Their equipment is normally junk and all of it is a known security risk.
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Aug 8, 2020 17:20
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xfinity / comcast sucks so bad. on the phone for 45 minutes and transferred between 3 people just to try and REACH "tier 2" support because the SNR on my cable modem's DOCSIS 3.1 channel is too low and things are intermittently making GBS threads out. The second guy I talked to didn't even know that cable modems operate with "channels" and thought I was talking about my goddamn TV when mentioning poor signal strength on my DOCSIS 3.1 channel. I finally reach the person and they refuse to even remotely run a signal strength test, or transfer me to a tech, or transfer me to people who actually support cable modems because I own my own modem (on their supported list!). all they'll do is schedule an in-person tech visit which costs $40 if they don't find anything wrong on their end. it's TYOOL 2020 and the loving internet and they cannot do ANYTHING AT ALL to support me or troubleshoot remotely. how on earth do you get competent support from these people? pmchem fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 17:54
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pmchem posted:xfinity / comcast sucks so bad. I had to use a lawyer to get out of the contract and got a real ISP. Had like 200 outtages over 3 years. They cant and wont fix problems in their backbone stuff.
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Aug 8, 2020 18:00
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Huge_Midget posted:Also don’t use Hauwei anything unless you absolutely have to. Their equipment is normally junk and all of it is a known security risk. It's pretty much my only option for decent Internet speeds. I'm in a new estate that, for some reason, didn't have fibre installed. There's only the basic broadband of up to 10 megabits. 4G is my only option for speed but fortunately there's 5G in the area (which is weird because its a remote town). The only 5G enabled sim router I could find was the Huawei one. Despite the crazy connection issues though it does work. Like while I've got the issues I outlined a few posts back, when I start a download on steam I'm getting 400 megabit a second. It's like a bloody glass cannon.
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Aug 8, 2020 19:21
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If a VPN solves it and you have no throughput issues on it then they are purposefully busting your connections, this isn't some "woe is me our network is crap" bullshit. Find a local vpn provider, or roll your own, and complain to technical support.
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Aug 8, 2020 21:41
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Just moved into a new house a couple months ago and have found I’ve needed a few WiFi extenders to connect all my devices. I currently use a TP-Link Archer C9 router (no mesh capability) which is basically in the middle of the house downstairs. It’s the only internet hookup point from when my internet was installed. The rest of the panels throughout the house are daisy-chained. My home office is in the master upstairs. I’ve got a TP-Link RE650/AC2600 extender (no mesh capability) under my desk. This has a single wired port, so I can connect my desktop PC, work laptop, printer, and my NAS to the wired port via a switch. This extender also services a camera in my backyard. In my garage, I’ve got a TP-Link AC750 extender that has mesh capability to connect another camera and an irrigation controller. I now have 6 WiFi networks plus a guest network. It’s getting annoying going to another part of the house/yard and having my phone hold onto 1 bar of WiFi from across the house. Not to mention keep thinking up Spaceballs-themed names for my SSIDs. I don’t know a whole lot about mesh networks, but it sounds like it would solve the issue of consolidating a bunch of networks to a single pair of SSIDs (2.4/5). Is the handoff between mesh nodes more graceful than holding onto a weak signal for dear life before swapping to a different SSID?
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Aug 9, 2020 19:33
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Mesh would be better than what you have. If you can get your new house properly wired up (assuming 'rest of the panels' meant coax), having wired backhaul would be better than mesh.
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Aug 9, 2020 19:50
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Sorry I meant the CAT5 was daisy-chained to all the rooms, and the kitchen has the only actual terminated panel. I think the coax is in all rooms, but honestly, WiFi has been working great for everything so far other than having to extend it a bit.
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Aug 9, 2020 20:00
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I hope this is the right place for this. I’m building my first unraid server. I have a Verizon fios gateway router. My goal is to have nextcloud on my server and be able to use the nextcloud feature to create public facing upload folders. So I need to have a reverse proxy. Now, my background is in video engineering- so I’m learning a lot about networking with this project. I own my own domain thru namecheap. I linked it to my cloud flare. I also have a duckdns subdomain I created for dynamic ip. I follow spaceinvader’s tutorials and get lost at reverse proxy. I can reach the nextcloud webui if I use the unraid IP:port But if I go to nextcloud in my docker tab in unraid and click webui it goes directly to my router and not the nextcloud ui. I don’t understand this. I’m not sure if I’m missing a host name A record or a cname or I missed something in a config file?
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Aug 9, 2020 20:49
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Cracker King posted:I hope this is the right place for this. Depending on your router this may not be something that you can do (cheapo consumer one less likely to let you do split DNS or hairpin NAT)
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Aug 9, 2020 22:04
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Cracker King posted:I don’t understand this.  From how you've described it, it sounds like the webui button is set up with the fully qualified domain name you've configured. To resolve the domain name to an IP address, a DNS lookup is performed. The DNS record for your domain name contains your public IP address - your router's external address. Your computer will then go to that IP address - your router. Because you're going to your router from inside your LAN, any port-forwarding or external firewall rules aren't applied - as such, you end up at your router's website. As Buff Hardback said, there's a few solutions.  Split-Horizon DNS is having different DNS records depending on where that request is made from (LAN or Internet, as denoted by the dotted line in the picture). You would configure a local DNS server (PiHole can do this, as can some routers) to resolve yourdomain.com queries with the local IP addresses you have set up on your LAN. Anyone outside of your LAN would still get the public IP address and still have access, because they are not using your local DNS server. Hairpinning configures the router to treat requests going to it's public IP address from the LAN as though it was coming from the Internet, meaning port-forwarding rules are applied. This is totally dependent on the router. Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 9, 2020 23:43
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Actuarial Fables posted:Hairpinning configures the router to treat requests going to it's public IP address from the LAN as though it was coming from the Internet, meaning port-forwarding rules are applied. This is totally dependent on the router.
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Aug 9, 2020 23:55
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Thanks for some of the explanations - I’m gonna do some more homework. It’s definitely something with my router. Fios gateway g1100. I didn’t fully understand port forwarding so I assumed what I plugged in (based on a tutorial) worked. I’ll throw up more details when I can. But I’m thinking I’ll probably have to use an old laptop as a pfsense box.
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Aug 10, 2020 01:31
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astral posted:Mesh would be better than what you have. Since I already have a mesh-enabled extender, should I just buy a TP-Link OneMesh router and replace my second extender, or are one of those mesh kits (Google, whatever the Amazon one is called, etc) decent?
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Aug 10, 2020 05:43
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Since I already have a mesh-enabled extender, should I just buy a TP-Link OneMesh router and replace my second extender, or are one of those mesh kits (Google, whatever the Amazon one is called, etc) decent? Google mesh supports wired backhaul so, if you can, you could use your wiring to improve performance to those nodes while using wireless backhaul for areas without wiring.
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Aug 10, 2020 09:10
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:I now have 6 WiFi networks plus a guest network. It’s getting annoying going to another part of the house/yard and having my phone hold onto 1 bar of WiFi from across the house. Not to mention keep thinking up Spaceballs-themed names for my SSIDs. Just rename the SSID on all the extenders to be the same as your main router. There is no reason to have them separated. Mesh is all about the backhaul (which you already have wired, and that will always be better than wireless), not sharing an SSID. All wifi can share an SSID, but it is ultimately up to your client devices as to how they move (hang on) between nodes in the same network. thiazi fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 12:41
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Hey all, read through the OP and did some searches online on what should be baby's first network 101, so I wanna make sure I'm understanding this correctly Currently, I have my modem and router next to our TV in the living room, running directly to the TV for streaming, and also being the main area for WiFi. I have Ethernet running through to a another room to connect directly to my PC to the router. We want to setup a desk where my partner can WFH in the same room as my PC on a laptop but I don't want to run another Ethernet and have to drill more holes. Is my best option here to just get another router, run Ethernet between them, and plug in both my PC and partners laptop to this second router? Will this effect internet speed considerably (partner needs it for zoom, I need it for gaming)? Any better configurations to consider without needing to run more Ethernet cable? Oysters Autobio fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 15:14
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Oysters Autobio posted:Hey all, read through the OP and did some searches online on what should be baby's first network 101, so I wanna make sure I'm understanding this correctly You don't need a second router, you need an access point(if you want to add a laptop over wireless) or a switch(if you want to add a laptop over a wire).
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Aug 10, 2020 15:18
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thiazi posted:Just rename the SSID on all the extenders to be the same as your main router. There is no reason to have them separated. Mesh is all about the backhaul (which you already have wired, and that will always be better than wireless), not sharing an SSID. All wifi can share an SSID, but it is ultimately up to your client devices as to how they move (hang on) between nodes in the same network. Yeah when I got my first extender (in a previous house), I had the same SSIDs but our phones would hang onto weak WiFi ALL the time and we constantly missed messages and whatnot. The node handoff was terrible.
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Aug 10, 2020 16:12
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How does a nanoHD “auto” setting for radio power work? I feel like coverage in my apartment is light so I should probably just turn it to medium or high
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Aug 10, 2020 16:12
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sellouts posted:How does a nanoHD “auto” setting for radio power work? I feel like coverage in my apartment is light so I should probably just turn it to medium or high As I understand it "auto" 99% of the time just ends up being "high". I would do a basic site survey to see what WLAN channels are in use near your place, and then start at "medium" + picking the least utilized channel.
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Aug 10, 2020 16:57
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movax posted:As I understand it "auto" 99% of the time just ends up being "high". I would do a basic site survey to see what WLAN channels are in use near your place, and then start at "medium" + picking the least utilized channel. Cool, thanks, I will try this
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Aug 10, 2020 18:10
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Yeah when I got my first extender (in a previous house), I had the same SSIDs but our phones would hang onto weak WiFi ALL the time and we constantly missed messages and whatnot. The node handoff was terrible. One of the big advantages of mesh systems/multi-AP systems in general over extenders is they can compare RSSI of clients to the various AP radios, and deauth clients to force them to reconnect to the closest AP if they're hanging on to a weak signal. So yes, you will get a much better experience.
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Aug 10, 2020 18:51
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SlowBloke posted:You don't need a second router, you need an access point(if you want to add a laptop over wireless) or a switch(if you want to add a laptop over a wire). So how would this look with a switch? Use the ethernet that's already going into the second bedroom (currently only plugged into the PC) and plug it into a switch, and then run two ethernet from the switch to the laptop and PC? Can I have two ethernet going out of the router, one into the switch (which then goes to the PC and laptop), and one ethernet going from the router into my TV? Excuse my terrible diagrams here but I suck at this and need it in picture form. Like here's my current setup going from living room to second room:  So, using a switch, could I have both a switch and the TV going straight into the router like this:  Would that work? The reason I need to do that is the cable for the cable modem (the unlabelled 3d blue box there) terminates where the TV and wireless router sit, so if I connected the switch to the TV I'd have to run another ethernet Oysters Autobio fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 19:40
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KS posted:One of the big advantages of mesh systems/multi-AP systems in general over extenders is they can compare RSSI of clients to the various AP radios, and deauth clients to force them to reconnect to the closest AP if they're hanging on to a weak signal. So yes, you will get a much better experience. That makes sense. Still seems like mesh would not be the best solution for Zetterberg because they have wired backhaul - Unifi APs might be better than switching to mesh.
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Aug 10, 2020 19:57
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KS posted:One of the big advantages of mesh systems/multi-AP systems in general over extenders is they can compare RSSI of clients to the various AP radios, and deauth clients to force them to reconnect to the closest AP if they're hanging on to a weak signal. So yes, you will get a much better experience. Awesome, thank you. thiazi posted:That makes sense. Still seems like mesh would not be the best solution for Zetterberg because they have wired backhaul - Unifi APs might be better than switching to mesh. You are absolutely correct, but all my CAT5 outlets are terminated as phone lines in every room, and we also have coax routed as well. I've got multiple kids doing their distance learning as of today, and 1.5yo twins while trying to WFH, so I am really looking for the minimum viable product due to my lack of free time. Plopping down a new mesh router and a mesh extender seems like much less work, but yes, you are correct that it is not the most optimal solution. e: I've never used coax for my network, other than the last 200 feet from the provider box to my house/modem. How would I use coax to hook up APs? I'm completely in the dark on using coax. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 20:05
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:
I have used something like this before: https://www.amazon.com/goCoax-Adapter-2-5Gbps-Ethernet-WF-803M/dp/B07XYDG7WN
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Aug 10, 2020 20:26
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Oysters Autobio posted:So how would this look with a switch? Use the ethernet that's already going into the second bedroom (currently only plugged into the PC) and plug it into a switch, and then run two ethernet from the switch to the laptop and PC? Can I have two ethernet going out of the router, one into the switch (which then goes to the PC and laptop), and one ethernet going from the router into my TV? Yeah, the switch essentially takes the place of your PC in the old setup and your PC (and whichever other device(s) in that other room) will then connect through the switch. Seems like you've got a good handle on it.
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Aug 10, 2020 20:31
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:You are absolutely correct, but all my CAT5 outlets are terminated as phone lines in every room, and we also have coax routed as well. I've got multiple kids doing their distance learning as of today, and 1.5yo twins while trying to WFH, so I am really looking for the minimum viable product due to my lack of free time. Plopping down a new mesh router and a mesh extender seems like much less work, but yes, you are correct that it is not the most optimal solution. If you do have CAT5 all running back to one point in a star topology, reterminating them to ethernet is easy and cheap. Adding a switch there would allow you to use a mesh system that has a wired backhaul. Can save some money -- like if you were doing a wireless backhaul you'd want the Eero Pro for its dedicated backhaul radio, but the regular Eero or the Orbi 3000 can do a wired backhaul.
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Aug 10, 2020 21:20
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KS posted:If you do have CAT5 all running back to one point in a star topology, reterminating them to ethernet is easy and cheap. Adding a switch there would allow you to use a mesh system that has a wired backhaul. Can save some money -- like if you were doing a wireless backhaul you'd want the Eero Pro for its dedicated backhaul radio, but the regular Eero or the Orbi 3000 can do a wired backhaul. No, all my CAT5 is daisy chained through each room, unfortunately. That would have been super nice though. e: Doesn't look like Eero Pro has a wired port for the beacons if I wanted the option to do wifi/wired backhaul. Bummer. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Aug 11, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 23:55
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I just moved to a new apartment, 2 bedroom, 2 floors, and I'm not sure how to set up my home network. In my last apartment, there was a single coaxial that was next to 4 Ethernet sockets, which connected to 4 Ethernet sockets scattered around the apartment -- a star topology, I guess? It was basically a network closet and it worked great. The new place is less centralized. - living room has a coax + Ethernet socket in one wall plate, plus an AT&T branded wall plate with two Ethernet sockets, one of which is labeled "broadband". I have Comcast. - first bedroom has 2 wall plates, coax + Ethernet and a single Ethernet socket. - second bedroom has 2 coax + Ethernet wall plates. I guess by "Ethernet socket" I mean an RJ45 female connector. They're all labeled "CAT 5e+" if that helps. We're going to have a computer and TV in the living room (first floor) and another computer in the second bedroom (second floor). I'm guessing from all the coax that this isn't a star topology and I can't have just a single modem, unless I run cables between the floors. Is there another option to get all the devices on the same local network? Can I get away with a single modem?
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Aug 11, 2020 00:02
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Solumin posted:I just moved to a new apartment, 2 bedroom, 2 floors, and I'm not sure how to set up my home network. Alright so let's hold off throwing words around that don't apply first, you'd only ever use 1 modem. If I had to guess, the AT&T branded 1-gang is their VoIP/data drop, so you can pretty much ignore that one. If you're lucky, all the remaining Ethernet drops terminate in one place (probably your utility closet or something similar). You'd put a switch in that space, plug all the drops into the switch, and you'd be off to the races. If you're less lucky, the Ethernet isn't running anywhere you can find and then you could most likely use MoCA to get data from one floor to the other. (also wifi is a thing)
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Aug 11, 2020 02:13
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:No, all my CAT5 is daisy chained through each room, unfortunately. That would have been super nice though. There's also nothing wrong with a setup like this, up to 7 hops end to end. In a world where gigabit switches are $15 it's an option. 
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Aug 11, 2020 06:31
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Oysters Autobio posted:So how would this look with a switch? Use the ethernet that's already going into the second bedroom (currently only plugged into the PC) and plug it into a switch, and then run two ethernet from the switch to the laptop and PC? Can I have two ethernet going out of the router, one into the switch (which then goes to the PC and laptop), and one ethernet going from the router into my TV? Correct, it would work perfectly fine. Just remember to make sure the switch is GIGABIT to avoid slowdowns.
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Aug 11, 2020 07:47
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tl;dr, which is the way to go in tyool 2020, dd-wrt? openwrt? what the hell For the past 2 years I've been working away from home. We got our services cut off as we're only here a couple days a month and have been getting wifi from the neighbors (they know). I have a v2 Archer C7 and I oftentimes have to reset it as I cant connect to it, even the admin console and factory reset seems to be the only way out of it, I always get 169 IP addresses when this happens. Its gotten worse since they switched ISPs, its actually the exact same lines, this is just a reseller who uses the previous ISPs lines at half the price, so obviously it wont be as good. Its all a bit of a blur but I feel like I didn't have to do this half as much before they switched. I'm finally back living home again so I decided, given the price, like a dummy, to try their ISP when I got my service hooked up. Far as I can tell the modem is fine, I'm hardwired direct to my desktop rn. My archer keeps making GBS threads the bed, and an old dlink I have kicking around that I picked up at a thrift store (prob also garbage) doesn't work either. At least I can keep accessing the console of the Dlink but no internet, but the archer, I have to factory reset and then try and speed through the setup before it stops responding. Probably fried from the many resets I've done over the recent while. Before I give up and go buy another router (shame as this meets my needs), I want to try some alternative firmware to see if it helps. Seems like there are more options out there than the last time I hosed around with this stuff. Networking has never been my strong point. Should I go with dd-wrt or openwrt or is there something else out there I should try? I dont think tomato is an option given the chipset.
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Aug 11, 2020 21:40
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Don't use Tomato in 2020. Don't use dd-wrt in 2020. Someone might be able to help troubleshoot your C7, but a new router wouldn't be a bad way to go. Maybe get a cheap ER-X and turn your old Archer or D-Link into an access point if that part of it isn't unstable.
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Aug 11, 2020 21:52
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OP seems a bit out of date, so hope you don't mind a request for recommendations from a rather clueless guy. Looking for a rec on a new router (and probably modem). The basics. Wife and I live alone in a 2 bedroom. Roughly 1400 square feet, 2 story, but the 2nd floor is just a landing, master bedroom and bath. Basically a big rear end long rectangular apartment. Standard drywall walls and cement floors if that matters. Our current comically old set up and use: 120 Mbps internet through Xfinity. Modem is a SB6121 that I've had seemingly forever. Old enough to have a Motorola logo on it instead of Arris, anyway. Router is (I think) a 1st gen Apple time capsule. If I understand things right, it's only 802.11n? I assume this is as big a dinosaur as I think it is. Internet into the modem in a 2nd bedroom on the ground floor. Modem into the router. My desktop PC is connected to the router with ethernet. Wife uses her Mac at a desk on the landing via wifi. We both work from home nowadays, but I'm the only one that has to do much teams meetings etc, and the connection has been fine since I'm wired directly. We both use the wifi with our phones at home, but probably do 90%+ of any internet surfing on our PC/MACs. We cut cable a while back. TV use is via an Amazon fire TV dongle thing. We stream some Amazon prime, but the connection chokes when trying to watch anything in 4k. If I try to stream MLB.tv, the signal will frequently degrade to something that looks like standard def. Just an ugly mess. A majority of our TV watching is using Plex to stream content from the PC in the downstairs bedroom. Recently, more and more 1080p files are pausing while a "your connection is too slow, etc" message pops up on screen. Per some info on Plex, it seems to happen anytime it's trying to stream at above 15mbps or so. I can get around it by telling plex to downgrade the video. Wifi signal seems strong throughout the apartment - just seems to be a speed issue. For a while I've assumed a new router would help things out, but now I'm just assuming that the modem is also possibly an issue. So - recommendations/advice for replacing either or both? I've been reading "best routers 2020" type articles on sites like Tom's Hardware and Cnet, but just don't have a clue. Other possible factors: Internet is currently just 120 mbps, but that's in part due to what's available around me. It's honestly more than enough for my needs, but I can't promise I wouldn't pay for something faster if it were available. I guess if buying a new modem, I'd want something that could handle a gigabit connection were I to upgrade. My wife and I would like to be house shopping in a year or so. There's absolutely no way to guess what our needs would be when we do buy a home, but getting something that could be used later (Or at least added to to suit our needs) would be nice. Not overly concerned on budget to an extent. I don't mind paying for nicer equipment if it's warranted. Guess I'd like to keep things under a few hundred total unless there's a reason to go higher that wouldn't be wasted on us.
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Aug 11, 2020 22:14
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KS posted:There's also nothing wrong with a setup like this, up to 7 hops end to end. In a world where gigabit switches are $15 it's an option. Hmm, is that a switch and mesh node in every room I want a mesh node in? That's not an awful idea. Only possible problem is I'm not sure which stop # along the daisy chain my router is off. As in, I don't know the order of rooms that the incoming internet connection goes to. Or would it not matter? Wouldn't it have to be at stop #1 from the box outside to make it work? e: Was thinking about it some more. Incoming internet goes from a box by the street to a box in my garage. I'd have to move my router (my internet doesn't need a modem, I guess it's in the box by the street or something, and is fiber to the house) to the garage at the "#1 stop", then just drop a switch/mesh node in each room I want to have wifi access. As opposed to having my router currently in the kitchen at stop #?. Does that sound right? Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Aug 11, 2020 |
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Aug 11, 2020 22:28
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