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on a USD fork there might be a single circlip that uses the axle and nut to preload the bearing/spacer/bearing combo againt the clip. Installing in reverse allows the bearings/spacer to move. You'd know for sure by carefully prying the dust seals off. there'll be a single circlip holding a bearing in. If both sides lack a clip, or both have clips, it's a symmetrical hub and the reason for it being a one-way wheel lies elsewhere.
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Aug 3, 2020 02:49
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 03:32 |
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only mildly related to motorcycles: how dumb would I be to ride the MABDR in mid to late november? I have two weeks off since I was going to go to japan, but that is obviously not happening so I am trying to do SOMETHING during that time off besides drink beer and sleep until 10am, so I would like to spend it motocamping up the MABDR since there really isn't much good motocamping in middle TN. max north I'd probably go is the MA / PA border, but mostly I just want to know if they salt the roads then. never had to deal with that in OR and I'd prefer to not deal with it out here either  I've ridden and camped in sub 30 degree weather plenty of times, so I just mostly want to know what to expect weather wise
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Aug 3, 2020 15:26
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right arm posted:only mildly related to motorcycles: I assume you mean the Maryland/pennsylvania border. It feels like the weather is really unpredictable these days, especially in shoulder seasons. But I don’t think you’re likely to find snow or ice or salted roads at those latitudes even at the end of November. Very well might be cold and rainy and miserable though.
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Aug 3, 2020 16:05
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ought ten posted:I assume you mean the Maryland/pennsylvania border. It feels like the weather is really unpredictable these days, especially in shoulder seasons. But I don’t think you’re likely to find snow or ice or salted roads at those latitudes even at the end of November. Very well might be cold and rainy and miserable though. lol yes I am a moron who doesn't know his state abbreviations; thank you that's perfect though! just mostly wanting to avoid salted roads. I rode in the snow / ice / rain back in OR and that's no problem. definitely packing my tent / down bag for cold nights instead of hammock / 45 degree bag. I appreciate it!
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Aug 3, 2020 16:10
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right arm posted:lol yes I am a moron who doesn't know his state abbreviations; thank you Depends on when in November you're talking about - earlier in the month you're likely fine, but about every other year there will be snow on the ground at Thanksgiving. Chances of snow being higher the further you are into the mountains, obv. If there's a chance of snow, there will be salt.
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Aug 3, 2020 17:15
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My bike sometimes idles rough, and sometimes just dies at stoplights. Always starts right back up, but for a few minutes I have to gently rev it to stay running. Only happens when the engine is warm, and seems to happen more after pushing the engine hard. It's hard to reproduce though, most of the time it idles just fine  The service manual's idle drop procedure says to start the pilot screw at 2 turns out and go from there. First I seated the pilot screws, and found that they were only 1 turn out, so my first thought is maybe I've been running lean. 2 turns out increased and smoothed out the idle. 3 turns out, no change, so I settled on 2 turns out. However, I pulled the plugs and they're black, flaky, and dry. Doesn't that signal a rich condition? I'm going to replace these spark plugs and see how they look after a few days. Any pointers? Front cylinder  Rear cylinder 
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Aug 3, 2020 19:55
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You did the right thing with your pilots and that was definitely the problem. Those plugs look ok, they are probably black because they only show you the last thirty odd seconds of running, plus they are platinum/iridium which in general look funny and dirtier than normal plugs in the same conditions and are often hard to read. My protip: never ever fit them, they are a huge waste of money and cause problems noticably more often than the basic 'copper' type.
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Aug 3, 2020 20:55
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I see some nice marshmallow brown peeking out of the top right one. I wish I had saved a picture I had of the bike that was driven in salt and then not washed. These machines have zero protection against it. Salt will pit show chrome in a matter of days and eat through exhaust pipes and unprotected metal like a soft cheese.
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Aug 3, 2020 22:10
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Slavvy posted:You aren't wrong, I've always wondered why that particular design is directional though. cursedshitbox posted:on a USD fork there might be a single circlip that uses the axle and nut to preload the bearing/spacer/bearing combo againt the clip. Installing in reverse allows the bearings/spacer to move. You'd know for sure by carefully prying the dust seals off. there'll be a single circlip holding a bearing in. If both sides lack a clip, or both have clips, it's a symmetrical hub and the reason for it being a one-way wheel lies elsewhere. It seems like it's the same on each side, however if I mount the wheel in the "wrong" direction if nothing else it won't match aesthetically, and will drive me crazy knowing I have the arrow pointing in the wrong direction. 
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Aug 4, 2020 00:11
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Oh yeah there's nothing at all special about that. The arrow clearly is for preserving the aesthetic
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Aug 4, 2020 01:15
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If aesthetics are the only problem, just grind the arrow off
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Aug 4, 2020 01:16
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Are we seriously talking about "preserving aesthetics" on a bike that's got a lovely rattlecan black paint job, a cheap swingarm plate mount, and spiked bolts holding the windscreen on? Are you fuckers hopped up on goofballs again? The aesthetic is "IDGAF"
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Aug 4, 2020 03:33
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Jazzzzz posted:Are we seriously talking about "preserving aesthetics" on a bike that's got a lovely rattlecan black paint job, a cheap swingarm plate mount, and spiked bolts holding the windscreen on? Are you fuckers hopped up on goofballs again? The aesthetic is "IDGAF" Nope. He can absolutely fuckin' send it. I'm a ktm owner. my fucks like everything else, are fuckin broken and leaking its sadness out.
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Aug 4, 2020 04:25
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Gorson posted:I see some nice marshmallow brown peeking out of the top right one. Just spray your bike liberally with ACF-50.
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Aug 6, 2020 13:02
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FBS posted:If aesthetics are the only problem, just grind the arrow off The wheels also have different markings on each side, so even without the arrow they'll look "off." Jazzzzz posted:Are we seriously talking about "preserving aesthetics" on a bike that's got a lovely rattlecan black paint job, a cheap swingarm plate mount, and spiked bolts holding the windscreen on? Are you fuckers hopped up on goofballs again? The aesthetic is "IDGAF" True, but at the same time do you want something so obviously wrong on your bike? It's also slowly but surely returning to stock, so no need to make things worse. I would check with the gixxer forums to see if there's a reason Suzuki has strong feelings as to which way the wheel should go, but you can imagine the state of the gixxer forums, particularly the subforum for a bike that's 20+ years old.
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Aug 6, 2020 17:18
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MomJeans420 posted:True, but at the same time do you want something so obviously wrong on your bike? If it's a showroom restoration, sure. It's currently a rat bike though, so why give a poo poo? Do you plan to spend a lot of time with that bike staring at the front wheel from 12 inches away? Assuming you can mount the wheel backwards so the tire siping rotates in the correct direction, that arrow has zero effect on how the bike rides, an incredibly minimal effect on how it looks, and costs time and money to fix. I wouldn't care enough to do anything about it until the bike needed new tires.
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Aug 6, 2020 17:41
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Conversely, I paid someone to do a job and they didn't do it right, so I'd like it fixed. Kind of the like the brown M&Ms thing for Van Halen, it would make me wonder what else they missed if it wasn't for the fact that I brought the wheels in without the bike so it's on me to make sure all axle nuts are properly torqued. And I'm not even bringing it back in just to have them fix it, I'm going to have them flip it around when the front wheel is already off as I'm getting the fork oil + seals replaced.
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Aug 6, 2020 17:48
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MomJeans420 posted:Conversely, I paid someone to do a job and they didn't do it right, so I'd like it fixed. Kind of the like the brown M&Ms thing for Van Halen, it would make me wonder what else they missed if it wasn't for the fact that I brought the wheels in without the bike so it's on me to make sure all axle nuts are properly torqued. If you're having the bike in anyways, of course have them fix their previous error. If nothing else, to have the tech that did it get a sideways look from their manager. "I heard Dave mounted another wheel backwards, eh?"
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Aug 6, 2020 19:05
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Really not sure why anyone is arguing in favour of perpetuating a dumb mistake made by a tyre monkey which he paid for regardless of the state of the bike or engineering minutae. Personally having that arrow point backwards would drive me completely insane and I could never live with it.
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Aug 6, 2020 19:55
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If you're having other work done then by all means make them fix their mistake - just ask that someone else mount the tire this time.
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Aug 6, 2020 22:02
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Rode a hawk with handlebars over the weekend, and now I want it. The reach on the bars has always bothered me, even with my long arms. Like, it's fine, but more back and rise would be nice. Their bike had low carmichael bars, but my 690 bars would give me more rise. Stock  Option one ($200 + cables): https://www.bikermart.co.uk/Honda-NT650-Hawk-89~-ABM-Billet-Aluminium-Riser-Kit and https://www.ebay.com/itm/7-8-To-1-1-8-Handle-Bar-Adapter-Riser-Fat-Bar-Conversion/193476328214?hash=item2d0c167b16:g:BbsAAOSwEt9exuzr Are things like the ABM safe? I guess, like the stock clipons, I always worry about it coming loose or pulling off and causing a crash. The ABM might give you redundancy in clamp, vs stock. Would also risk scratching up the top yoke. Option 2 ($100-125 + cables): Just get some protaper handlebar risers + 7/8 to 1 1/8 adapters and used hawk top yoke. My buddy can drill holes in it like he did on his for me. Problem is I can be really ocd and if he got the mounts slightly off angle I'd notice and it would drive me up the wall. Option 3 ($0): Just live with it stock. Not a fan of this option. The hawk suits my needs really well currently, and I don't intend to sell it for a while. Might be nice to fix the ergos, since I've already added nice peg lowering plates. EDIT: My buddy, in all of his awesomeness, told me that $200 was ridiculous and he was going to order all the stuff needed and do all the fabrication for me. All I have to do is trade him some rox risers I have. 
Coydog fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Aug 10, 2020 |
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Aug 10, 2020 16:45
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Is it normal for oem rubber brake lines to be hideously expensive? For my Tracer 900 it's about 900 euros, while a Fren Tubo braided set costs 110. It seems to me that those rubber lines might be relatively expensive as it's always a metal pipe that needs to be some specific shape before it switches to rubber... why don't Japanese bikes just use braided lines stock? And why do they want you to replace the 900 dollar brake lines every 4 years?
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Aug 10, 2020 19:18
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You don't actually need to replace them every four years, that is just crazy CYA nonsense nobody adheres to. Some of them do have braided lines stock, no idea what the economies of scale are like but that's probably why they don't all have them.
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Aug 10, 2020 19:28
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That seems really expensive, it was $130 for new OEM lines for the front of a 1999 GSX-R, but only $90 for Galfer stainless steel lines. New OEM steel lines for my Daytona are $93. Both of these bikes are older though, maybe that makes it cheaper.
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Aug 10, 2020 19:33
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MomJeans420 posted:That seems really expensive, it was $130 for new OEM lines for the front of a 1999 GSX-R, but only $90 for Galfer stainless steel lines. New OEM steel lines for my Daytona are $93. Both of these bikes are older though, maybe that makes it cheaper. ABS increases the cost as it means more separate lines for them to make. The MT09 bikes, for some reason, have 7 separate lines, they run through some manifold or something, I can't make it out on the parts diagram. Each separate line is also really expensive though, otherwise they still wouldn't be almost 1000 dollars.
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Aug 10, 2020 19:36
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High Protein posted:ABS increases the cost as it means more separate lines for them to make. The MT09 bikes, for some reason, have 7 separate lines, they run through some manifold or something, I can't make it out on the parts diagram. The MT09 series have an ABS junction box that sits near the top of the rear shock. Each master cylinder feeds to the junction box, then there are lines back out to the calipers. Instead of two lines to the front calipers and one to the rear, you end up with "extra" lines. Aftermarket kits from Spiegler here in the US have 5 lines; the HEL kits have 7 lines. I'm not sure which factory lines the Spiegler kit eliminates.
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Aug 10, 2020 20:55
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My front brakes are poo poo. (Drums in the rear, so it's my understanding that they're poo poo by default and can't be helped.) The pads have a lot of material left. However, there's a chip in the middle wear groove, I don't know if that means anything.   The front lever is definitely squishy/spongy, so I bled the brakes. The brake fluid started out looking like medium tea, then eventually ran clear.    However, I didn't see a single air bubble pop out. It's my first time bleeding brakes, so I took my time, and was first-time-level careful about tightening the bleeder valve before releasing the lever, not letting the reservoir get too low, etc. Went for a ride afterwards, and although there was some improvement, the results were disappointing. Still pretty weak brakes. Are the brakes just poo poo on old single-disc Hondas? Or did I gently caress up the procedure. If I squeeze hard, they still feel spongy. https://i.imgur.com/oiMA2h0.mp4
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Aug 11, 2020 02:57
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Zip tie the brake lever to the throttle and leave it overnight (put something over the grip so the zip tie doesn't cut it/leave marks in it). Might help get residual air out of the lines - just don't expect a miracle. How old are your brake lines?
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Aug 11, 2020 03:56
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epalm posted:My front brakes are poo poo. (Drums in the rear, so it's my understanding that they're poo poo by default and can't be helped.) Your film clip doesn't look that unusual to me, but of course it's hard to tell how hard you're squeezing. Do the calipers have four pistons or are they sliding, I mean if they're sliding 2-piston calipers they're what most bikes use as a rear brake, so don't expect too much. The zip tie trick might help, you could also crack open the master cylinder banjo bolt to bleed air there. And yes it might be the brake lines bulging.
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Aug 11, 2020 06:22
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Jazzzzz posted:Zip tie the brake lever to the throttle and leave it overnight (put something over the grip so the zip tie doesn't cut it/leave marks in it). Might help get residual air out of the lines - just don't expect a miracle. I haven't seen anything to indicate they've ever been replaced, but I don't really know what to look for either. It's a '98 Shadow, so if they've never been replaced... 22 years old. I inspected the line, nothing jumps out at me, no cracking or stiffness or anything looking out of place. High Protein posted:Your film clip doesn't look that unusual to me, but of course it's hard to tell how hard you're squeezing. Do the calipers have four pistons or are they sliding, I mean if they're sliding 2-piston calipers they're what most bikes use as a rear brake, so don't expect too much. Yes they are 2 piston calipers. I don't know what makes them "sliding" calipers. Thanks for the tips, I'll try the zip-tie trick.
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Aug 11, 2020 13:14
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epalm posted:Yes they are 2 piston calipers. I don't know what makes them "sliding" calipers. Sliding/floating calipers only have pistons on one side, the other side pushes against the rotor as the caliper slides along two pins. Looking at the picture again, the rubber bellow that goes around such a pin is visible I think.
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Aug 11, 2020 17:53
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Anyway old brake are generally bad, cruiser brakes especially so and it's a heavy bike. So don't expect too much. Like I said, this is what a lot of bikes use for a rear brake nowadays.
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Aug 11, 2020 18:00
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Yeah there doesn't look anything wrong in those pics, a solitary brake like that on a big bike will always be mediocre. Try greasing the slide pins in case they're binding at all, you could also get a braided line which would make the lever feel a little more immediate but won't change the overall effort and stopping power.
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Aug 11, 2020 19:49
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High Protein posted:Anyway old brake are generally bad, cruiser brakes especially so and it's a heavy bike. So don't expect too much. Like I said, this is what a lot of bikes use for a rear brake nowadays. Slavvy posted:Yeah there doesn't look anything wrong in those pics, a solitary brake like that on a big bike will always be mediocre. Try greasing the slide pins in case they're binding at all, you could also get a braided line which would make the lever feel a little more immediate but won't change the overall effort and stopping power. The front brake on Coydog's Hawk GT was horribly squishy when I got it, and new fluid/repeated bleeds didn't help much. Braided line made a noticeable difference, changing to a new master cylinder even moreso.
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Aug 11, 2020 23:21
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Jazzzzz posted:The front brake on Coydog's Hawk GT was horribly squishy when I got it, and new fluid/repeated bleeds didn't help much. Braided line made a noticeable difference, changing to a new master cylinder even moreso. Every time my buddy rides the hawk he gushes about that front brake. Personally, I love how excellent it feels and how promptly you can throw down anchors. The radial master makes good use of the braided lines. You did awesome with it. Conversely, I tried to chase the squishy front brake out of my EX250 and DR650 with braided lines and fluid changes. It helped braking dramatically, but didn't change the way it felt too much.
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Aug 12, 2020 04:58
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Is running seafoam through a tank of gas a bad idea? Bikes running with a bit of a high idle, and I was gonna run seafoam through before tackling things like the new throttle cable I just bought and doing carb sorcery.
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Aug 12, 2020 05:25
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gileadexile posted:Is running seafoam through a tank of gas a bad idea? Bikes running with a bit of a high idle, and I was gonna run seafoam through before tackling things like the new throttle cable I just bought and doing carb sorcery. whatever you think it will fix, it wont
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Aug 12, 2020 07:24
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Razzled posted:whatever you think it will fix, it wont A good way of putting it. Seafoam can decarbonize a fouled up engine really nicely but that's about it. If you have a problem you have a problem, chemicals generally won't fix it.
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Aug 12, 2020 07:32
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gileadexile posted:Is running seafoam through a tank of gas a bad idea? Bikes running with a bit of a high idle, and I was gonna run seafoam through before tackling things like the new throttle cable I just bought and doing carb sorcery. since it's carbed, don't you have a joint idle adjustment screw that affects all the carbs?
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Aug 12, 2020 07:53
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| # ? Jun 6, 2024 03:32 |
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CANS Carburetors Are Not Sorcery
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Aug 12, 2020 15:54
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