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Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum
I'm not really sure nitpicking over specific placement is all that useful since no matter what in that amount of space big equipment really needs to be mobile anyways, and he already said he plans on getting a mobile base for his TS. Just need to make sure outlet placement is generous.


I do have my own question, anyone ever store lumber outside in a northern climate during the winter? Does the cold, very cold, and dry air cause warping or other damage?

I really don't have space to store as much lumber as I'd like, especially sheet goods, in my shop but just on the other side of the bay door there is a covered outside area that I'm considering building a storage rack in but I have no idea what extreme cold does to lumber.

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Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

mds2 posted:

Awesome. I'm very curious about these lathes. I need to upgrade and you cant beat the prices.

I'm not any lathe expert, but I have to say the WEN is very solid and more than powerful enough for my needs. Most everything I've done has been at low power or maybe half power. I haven't even cranked it up to full yet (I'm scared :ohdear:). I have made more chess men (or women)!

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

The #1 rule of functional shop layout is to never be completely married to one layout. Plan as best you can, set it up the way you think it will work and then try it for a while. If something doesn't work, change it. When it comes to electrical, just do as many outlets as you can reasonably afford and keep in mind that just about every single stationary power tool has a convenient way to drop the power down from the ceiling and not have a cord in the way (behind the fence on a jointer, back right corner of a table saw, along the column of a bandsaw, etc).

Shop organization/workflow/design/etc is (should be) an iterative process.

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

Dunno if anybody's looking, but I picked up a Metabo HPT C10RJS tablesaw for $349 at Lowe's. They're taking them out of some locations so they're liquidating stock. I've used a DeWalt (borrowed from a friend) before and the C10RJS feels as good, with a much nicer rolling stand. Can't believe I ever bought a saw with a "traditional" unlatch-and-latch rip fence, but I guess nobody ever accused me of being bright.

They're also selling them for $349 online + shipping if your selected store online/in the app is one of the ones doing the liquidation. ($569 otherwise. Lowe's, you're weird.)

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Elem7 posted:

I'm not really sure nitpicking over specific placement is all that useful since no matter what in that amount of space big equipment really needs to be mobile anyways, and he already said he plans on getting a mobile base for his TS. Just need to make sure outlet placement is generous.

I'm a big fan of a wooden frame floor in a shop you're going to spend 8 +- hours a day in over a concrete slab. gently caress slabs.

Elem7 posted:

I do have my own question, anyone ever store lumber outside in a northern climate during the winter? Does the cold, very cold, and dry air cause warping or other damage?

I really don't have space to store as much lumber as I'd like, especially sheet goods, in my shop but just on the other side of the bay door there is a covered outside area that I'm considering building a storage rack in but I have no idea what extreme cold does to lumber.

If it's already seasoned, the cold shouldn't be an issue. Wood is more humidity responsive, or lack of same- and that will be what happens in cold, cold, very cold and scary dry air.

But, I don't and haven't lived in an extreme northern climate. People have wood frame homes in northern environment, don't they.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010

Elem7 posted:

I'm not really sure nitpicking over specific placement is all that useful since no matter what in that amount of space big equipment really needs to be mobile anyways, and he already said he plans on getting a mobile base for his TS. Just need to make sure outlet placement is generous.


I do have my own question, anyone ever store lumber outside in a northern climate during the winter? Does the cold, very cold, and dry air cause warping or other damage?

I really don't have space to store as much lumber as I'd like, especially sheet goods, in my shop but just on the other side of the bay door there is a covered outside area that I'm considering building a storage rack in but I have no idea what extreme cold does to lumber.

I haven't had any problems stored wood outdoors during the winter, I made sure there was a tarp on top of my wood pile so when the snow finally melted the water shed off the pile.


Hypnolobster posted:

The #1 rule of functional shop layout is to never be completely married to one layout. Plan as best you can, set it up the way you think it will work and then try it for a while. If something doesn't work, change it. When it comes to electrical, just do as many outlets as you can reasonably afford and keep in mind that just about every single stationary power tool has a convenient way to drop the power down from the ceiling and not have a cord in the way (behind the fence on a jointer, back right corner of a table saw, along the column of a bandsaw, etc).

Shop organization/workflow/design/etc is (should be) an iterative process.

This is solid advice. When I had a garage workshop I found I would move things around every Spring. Everything is good in the Summer and Fall when you can open the garage door and have lots of extra space, but after spending a Winter in the shop without being able to open the door you really get to know your limitations and want to make changes when it finally warms up.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I made a shelf for the cat







It took loving ages and there's tons of mistakes but it was a really good project for learning a bunch of stuff. Like accounting for a lot of angles and making mitered trim and stuff. The trim rails are all poplar that I cut down and rounded and mitered; the rest is mostly baltic birch ply, and some spare red oak bits I had for the legs on the ladder and the brackets joining the ladder to the underside of the shelf.

I filled all the recessed trim screw holes with pegs I made myself by turning bits of plum tree cuttings from when I pruned my plum tree (I use the wood for smoking so I always have a pile around).
I also had to figure out how to support that ladder, it's at a weird angle to just miss an outlet on the wall near the floor, leave room for a filing cabinet to open, miss the window sill trim, but still be very firm and solid.

I made the top large enough to put a basket or a cat bed or whatever on top, and I think I may cut some carpet samples down to fit between the rungs on the ladder so the cats have something to grip.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

Leperflesh posted:

I made a shelf for the cat







It took loving ages and there's tons of mistakes but it was a really good project for learning a bunch of stuff. Like accounting for a lot of angles and making mitered trim and stuff. The trim rails are all poplar that I cut down and rounded and mitered; the rest is mostly baltic birch ply, and some spare red oak bits I had for the legs on the ladder and the brackets joining the ladder to the underside of the shelf.

I filled all the recessed trim screw holes with pegs I made myself by turning bits of plum tree cuttings from when I pruned my plum tree (I use the wood for smoking so I always have a pile around).
I also had to figure out how to support that ladder, it's at a weird angle to just miss an outlet on the wall near the floor, leave room for a filing cabinet to open, miss the window sill trim, but still be very firm and solid.

I made the top large enough to put a basket or a cat bed or whatever on top, and I think I may cut some carpet samples down to fit between the rungs on the ladder so the cats have something to grip.

This is a very good cat ramp.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



My daughter snagged this and I have mixed feels right now.

The junk collector
Aug 10, 2005
Hey do you want that motherboard?
Why, did she pay to much?

But really, that's awesome. The Stanley 45 is a ton of fun and a great find. Did she get a set of irons with it? It looks to be in decent shape from the photo.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

Leperflesh posted:

I made a shelf for the cat

I made the top large enough to put a basket or a cat bed or whatever on top, and I think I may cut some carpet samples down to fit between the rungs on the ladder so the cats have something to grip.

I've been wanting to do this for a long time but also have it continue up around my living room wall and windows so I can hang plants from it. That looks really nice, great work. Do they love it??

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.

Elem7 posted:

I do have my own question, anyone ever store lumber outside in a northern climate during the winter? Does the cold, very cold, and dry air cause warping or other damage?

Yes lots of people store lumber outside or in uninsulated sheds. What you need to do is to place it up off the ground, make sure it has cover from snow and rain but that air can circulate. Then stack it properly. Then you bring in the lumber you want to use in the shop a few weeks beforehand so it can acclimatize to the shop air.

I have a lumber rack (mostly empty) on the side of my shop, was thinking of adding a small slanted roof over it, it is under the eaves of the shops roof however, so might not need a roof, might just nail a tarp to it if gets too wet or snowy when winter comes:

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum
Guess I should've clarified, this would be my working lumber and would be subjected to a 70 degree swing going from outside to in and then worked within the same day.

Obviously wood does fine out in the cold or wood houses wouldn't work very well but I wasn't sure if a temperature shock like that could cause any effects or cutting wood at that temperature.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Well if you don't have the space then you gotta do what you gotta do, but IMO it's best to be able to have some stock at hand indoors. I don't think temperature shock matters one iota, but that the moisture level of wood that's dried outside won't go as low as it will once indoors in a warm environment and that additional drying can cause stock you work with to warp after you've planed and prepared it or after you've built whatever you meant to.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
I'd bring the wood you are using on your current project inside at least a week or two before you plan to start working with it. This is in general advice and not northeastern winter specific.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



The junk collector posted:

Why, did she pay to much?

But really, that's awesome. The Stanley 45 is a ton of fun and a great find. Did she get a set of irons with it? It looks to be in decent shape from the photo.

It was gifted to her by a sweet old man she's been working with/for. He's not long for this world. It's so beautiful, I'm jealous, and I'm proud she's working with her hands with wood occasionally. I don't think he had any extras, but there may be some laying around his shop.

Technowrite
Jan 18, 2006

I first battled the Metroids on Planet Zebes.
Eight months ago, I would be too petrified to even think about buying a table saw. About three weeks into owning one, and I am cutting dado joints like it's nothing. I have never been prouder of myself than in the shop in the past few weeks.

Can any of you recommend some dado blades for me?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

I've been wanting to do this for a long time but also have it continue up around my living room wall and windows so I can hang plants from it. That looks really nice, great work. Do they love it??

Billie Jean is the lowest-on-the-pecking-order cat; she's runty and the other three pick on her. But she's also by far the smartest and most agile. So my office is her main hangout, she spends all day with me in here, and the shelf is nominally "hers." The initial reason I wanted to do it was to give her both a wider space to use on that window since she loves it anyway, and also to discourage her habit of climbing my expensive ergo chair - or my arm while I'm in it - to get up there.
She's started using the shelf already:


But not yet the ramp. I'll give it a few days but if she doesn't use it as-is I'll need to add traction. I'm thinking of applying stick-on velcro and then applying carpet squares to the velcro: I want a solution that I can change or replace over time, especially if I use carpet which will shred and wear out every couple of years.


Mr. Mambold posted:

My daughter snagged this and I have mixed feels right now.



I picked up one of these in January. Unfortunately, mine is missing most of its parts, including the center rail; and the outer rail is not original to the plane body. Mine came with a single iron and no others. Dating these things is tricky but there's a couple of resources if you want:
this is the first place to start: http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm

A complete original #45 that includes a complete set of irons in-box is worth north of $350, but most of that value is in the irons, which are rare. Sets are usually missing things. If you have a set that includes all of the beading cutters you're sitting on a goldmine, those were an extra set you could buy (usually) and they're rare as hen's teeth.

One thing to be aware of: the oldest ones have "japanning" applied to make them silver, and that stuff will come off if you try to clean it up using abrasives like a wire wheel, so don't do that.

OgreNoah
Nov 18, 2003

So I'm planning a bookcase between the stair stringers and the ceiling above leading to my house's second floor. The stringer is about 7" wide, and I basically want the bookcase to take up the entire area. The image below is my model of the bookcase.

What I'm having trouble with is figuring out how to make it be easily removable, preferably without the use of a drill. I want it to be removable for if anything large (bed, mattress, etc) has to be moved up/down stairs. Can anyone think of any way to like, slot it in there and get it to stay without leaving gaps? Some sort of fastener I don't know the name of?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Leperflesh posted:


I picked up one of these in January. Unfortunately, mine is missing most of its parts, including the center rail; and the outer rail is not original to the plane body. Mine came with a single iron and no others. Dating these things is tricky but there's a couple of resources if you want:
this is the first place to start: http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan6.htm

A complete original #45 that includes a complete set of irons in-box is worth north of $350, but most of that value is in the irons, which are rare. Sets are usually missing things. If you have a set that includes all of the beading cutters you're sitting on a goldmine, those were an extra set you could buy (usually) and they're rare as hen's teeth.

One thing to be aware of: the oldest ones have "japanning" applied to make them silver, and that stuff will come off if you try to clean it up using abrasives like a wire wheel, so don't do that.

I'll pass that link and info on to her, thanks.

edit- I just texted that to her, she says she saw a box of irons somewhere in the old fella's dusty, messy shop! So she may have the complete monty.

Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Aug 13, 2020

bred
Oct 24, 2008

I think you can pocket z clips into the short vertical board to minimize gaps and hold it to the wall.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

bred posted:

I think you can pocket z clips into the short vertical board to minimize gaps and hold it to the wall.

Same but also have the front (right side in picture) full length to the floor with z clips to hold the front. Have the whole thing push in and down if you will.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
Hey gang! Been a minute... hope everyone is well!

I made a little protective cover out of Baltic Birch ply to go over an outdoor utility sink. Just to keep the debris and whatnot out when not in use.
Whats the best, simpleton-proof water protection I could use? Just looking to not have the wood warp the first time it gets wet. :)

Ease of use and dependability is biggest priority.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Paint.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
I have signed up to build a little library for our neighborhood. I volunteered to buy the materials, design, assemble, and finish it. The other guy is digging the post hole, the poor sucker.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Feenix posted:

Hey gang! Been a minute... hope everyone is well!

I made a little protective cover out of Baltic Birch ply to go over an outdoor utility sink. Just to keep the debris and whatnot out when not in use.
Whats the best, simpleton-proof water protection I could use? Just looking to not have the wood warp the first time it gets wet. :)

Ease of use and dependability is biggest priority.

Spar varnish.

Big Dick Cheney
Mar 30, 2007
How useful are those tabletop/portable table saws vs something like a miter saw? I can't really afford $2000 for a big table saw but I could afford either a miter saw or smaller table saw. What size boards can you cut on one of those smaller table saws?

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

Big Dick Cheney posted:

How useful are those tabletop/portable table saws vs something like a miter saw? I can't really afford $2000 for a big table saw but I could afford either a miter saw or smaller table saw. What size boards can you cut on one of those smaller table saws?

If presented with both options I would buy the table saw. It feels like you would have more options with that for cutting long stuff.

Spookydonut
Sep 13, 2010

"Hello alien thoughtbeasts! We murder children!"
~our children?~
"Not recently, no!"
~we cool bro~
You can crosscut on a table saw (with a sled) but you can't rip cut on a mitre saw.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
With that budget I'd buy a track saw, a rip blade (they come with a crosscut blade) and enough rail to make an 8' rip

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Big Dick Cheney posted:

How useful are those tabletop/portable table saws vs something like a miter saw? I can't really afford $2000 for a big table saw but I could afford either a miter saw or smaller table saw. What size boards can you cut on one of those smaller table saws?

What are you going to be doing mostly? That's the qualifier.
Serious Gaylord reinforced one of those little tabletop table saws a few pages back, then clanked himself proper with a kickback of 1/4" plywood. No one thinks about that stuff kicking back, but it can be vicious. And if you're nervous about that at all, go with a track saw like G.E. mentioned

hitze
Aug 28, 2007
Give me a dollar. No, the twenty. This is gonna blow your mind...

I bought a thing

:patriot:

Big Dick Cheney
Mar 30, 2007
My current plans are making a bassinet and then a crib so I'm not making anything too big. I did not know track saws were a thing so I'll look at those too. The only thing I can use for rip cuts right now is a circular saw and a hand saw so I should probably get something good at rip cutting.

Rutibex
Sep 9, 2001

by Fluffdaddy

hitze posted:

I bought a thing

:patriot:

What are you going to do with it?

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

hitze posted:

I bought a thing

:patriot:

I have been looking for that thing :( How much you find it for?


I ended up buying a new Grizzly G0855 yesterday

hitze
Aug 28, 2007
Give me a dollar. No, the twenty. This is gonna blow your mind...

Rutibex posted:

What are you going to do with it?

Got a bunch of Not Square boards

JEEVES420 posted:

I have been looking for that thing :( How much you find it for?


I ended up buying a new Grizzly G0855 yesterday

Found it locally for $325 so I pulled the trigger

Falco
Dec 31, 2003

Freewheeling At Last

hitze posted:

I bought a thing

:patriot:

hitze posted:


Found it locally for $325 so I pulled the trigger


I'm on the hunt for such thing as well. $325 for a Powermatic would be a great deal around me. Nice buy!

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



hitze posted:

Got a bunch of Not Square boards


Found it locally for $325 so I pulled the trigger

For an 8" that's up there for steal of the year.

hitze
Aug 28, 2007
Give me a dollar. No, the twenty. This is gonna blow your mind...

Mr. Mambold posted:

For an 8" that's up there for steal of the year.

Haha, it's just a Model 50 baby 6", wish it was a 8" one for that much! I was watching these Model 60 8" auctions and uh, they went higher than I was willing.
https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=2518&acctid=19
https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=7&acctid=8184

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JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Mr. Mambold posted:

For an 8" that's up there for steal of the year.

No kidding, that would of gone for $850+ here and sold in minutes :(

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