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Speaking of Track Saws, I made this crazy simple track saw jig out of some scrap and I can’t believe I didn’t do this the day I got my circular saw. It’s already come in super handy. Now I just need to make an 8’ long one. 
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Aug 14, 2020 22:55
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hitze posted:Haha, it's just a Model 50 baby 6", wish it was a 8" one for that much! I was watching these Model 60 8" auctions and uh, they went higher than I was willing. I honestly couldn't tell except the fence looked as massive as on the bigger ones. That's still a steal.
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Aug 15, 2020 00:23
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I can't stop making chess pieces. I still need to have a go at most of them with the dremel and drill press but I have them into their basic shape from the lathe. I'm getting better! I really need to get a set of proper tools though, these "mini" ones are too small even for chess pieces.
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Aug 15, 2020 00:32
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GEMorris posted:With that budget I'd buy a track saw, a rip blade (they come with a crosscut blade) and enough rail to make an 8' rip Can you reliably rip small things with it? Like rip an inch off a 3" board thats a couple feet long? I basically use my circular saw with a homemade track to break down sheets of plywood before the table saw but it's a pain in the rear end and I need something to push me over the edge to buy a tracksaw. In non tool talk...I finished up my last project in this shop, pretty simple cherry coat rack.  Also started packing up my tiny basement corner shop, looking forward to more space. 
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Aug 15, 2020 01:08
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Rips off of thin boards are absolutely where a track saw is weakest (working with small pieces in general can be tough). Part of the solution is just planning out your cuts for the tool at hand, so that means trimming off the small pieces first and leaving separating the bigger parts for last. It can help some but you'll definitely be stuck at times needing to rip a thin piece and then you either need a second board of the same thickness to serve as a stop/rail support or a different tool. This is why I like tracksaw+bandsaw so much, because working with small pieces, especially rips, is a thing a bandsaw does really well (assuming you also use handplanes for quick cleanup of saw marks). Table saws, in the condition and state that I see many folks use them, also leave saw marks and should also be trued up but thats always a point folks want to argue so pretend there's a big flashing "opinion" sign hanging on this paragraph.
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Aug 15, 2020 05:44
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GEMorris posted:Table saws, in the condition and state that I see many folks use them, also leave saw marks and should also be trued up but thats always a point folks want to argue so pretend there's a big flashing "opinion" sign hanging on this paragraph. Getting a table saw properly calibrated to stop burn/saw marks/have the face ready for gluing is probably beyond about 90% of people. There are blades you can get which use the side of the blade teeth to plane it flat but honestly people just need to accept that a table saw isn't a jointer and do a quick pass of a hand plane on it
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Aug 15, 2020 07:03
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Leperflesh posted:
Don’t count on it. My 15yo cat would go from floor to desk to sill in one movement, possibly keeping eye contact the whole time. Still looks good tho.
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Aug 15, 2020 08:07
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Guys I think I've found the ultimate solution to the workshop layout dilemma
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Aug 15, 2020 09:08
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cakesmith handyman posted:Guys I think I've found the ultimate solution to the workshop layout dilemma This, but bigger 
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Aug 15, 2020 11:52
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cakesmith handyman posted:Guys I think I've found the ultimate solution to the workshop layout dilemma You joke but this is my shop. It's a weird T shape that nothing fits quite right for a permanent home, so every tool and work surface is on casters.
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Aug 15, 2020 14:03
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Spookydonut posted:This, but bigger 
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Aug 15, 2020 14:54
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I'm trying to alternate between restoring tools and making projects with the tools. So with my cat shelf done, I cleaned up a bit and now I'm working on an old Stanley #2 plane from probably the late 1800s, although #2s are harder to date. Plane iron says Stanley Rule & Level Co., 1 9/16" wide which is close enough to the spec 1 5/8" width that I think it's right. And sometime in the last century, someone put this bevel into the flat side of the blade!  Obviously I can just grind a quarter inch off this plane iron to restore it to a flat back, but given the vintage I'm loathe do to it. If I leave the bevel, effectively the plane will have a higher angle of attack, but also be much harder to maintain a very consistent bevel across the width of the plane. I don't know why someone would do this, have any of you seen it before? Can I get this plane nicely functional without grinding back the iron? Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 20:38
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Is there a particular brand of saw blade that is a great value or something? I realize now that  blades are probably bad, but blades that cost 10x that amount are real tough to justify unless they last that much longer.I need a new 10" blade for my miter saw, the current one is starting to leave small burn marks on the wood which I think means it's past its useful lifetime. It's definitely not worth sharpening.
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Aug 15, 2020 20:52
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Olothreutes posted:Is there a particular brand of saw blade that is a great value or something? I realize now that Freud branded Diablo blades you can get at HD are great for the price. A bit more for actual Freud blades. Check the teeth, a lot of the time they just get dirty and a good soak and scrub in some simple green will do wonders.
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Aug 15, 2020 21:01
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Leperflesh posted:I'm trying to alternate between restoring tools and making projects with the tools. So with my cat shelf done, I cleaned up a bit and now I'm working on an old Stanley #2 plane from probably the late 1800s, although #2s are harder to date. Plane iron says Stanley Rule & Level Co., 1 9/16" wide which is close enough to the spec 1 5/8" width that I think it's right. It's definitely not unheard of. It's called a back bevel, plenty of discussion on google. Maybe the previous owner used it for super curly wood or something, so wanted the higher angle. If it was me, I'd just try sharpening it like normal and see if it actually interferes with using it. Hopefully it behaves well enough with the back bevel on there until you sharpen it away through normal usage. If not, well, I guess that answers your question. (Also, does anyone actually use a #2?)
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Aug 15, 2020 21:51
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I'm expecting to use it as a nice intermediary between my block planes and a #4, which is too heavy and wide when I'm just working on small pieces. But maybe I'll never reach for it  Having a back bevel is going to require positioning the chipbreaker further back on the blade, though. It might chatter more. The iron is also curved across its width, I don't know why you'd do that for such a small finishing/smoothing plane. I guess whoever owned it just had a single plane and wanted to do heavy work with it even though it's so small? Who knows! I'll put an edge on it and see how it goes and then probably wind up grinding it down. e. also this "back bevel" has been ground in about a quarter inch which is way, way more than necessary if that's what they were doing. A 64th is sufficient if that's the intent. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 22:31
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Looking at it again, you're right, that is huge. Maybe they were doing "the ruler trick" with a wooden ruler? 
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Aug 15, 2020 22:50
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Somehow I have ended up with too much wood, as a newbie to woodworking I do not know what to do with any of it or what any of the species are. I tried looking at woodworking plans on various sites but I am having difficulty deciding what to do with each piece, as I do not want to waste them by making newbie mistakes. I was thinking of cutting them up into blanks to turn on a lathe but would that be a waste? Here's a gallery showing what I have ended up collecting. Do any of the pieces stand out as being exceptional?      
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Aug 16, 2020 13:34
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Vier posted:Somehow I have ended up with too much wood, as a newbie to woodworking I do not know what to do with any of it or what any of the species are. Give me some of that wood bro, drat
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Aug 16, 2020 13:46
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You'll make mistakes no matter what doing this, dont let the fear of that hold you back. Fear is the mind killer. You'll always be learning its great! All that wood is exceptional wood, I wouldn't cut anything down until I knew what I was doing with it or absolutely had to for storage issues, someday you might find you need some big scrap pieces. Make whatever will makes you happy
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Aug 16, 2020 14:14
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:You'll make mistakes no matter what doing this, dont let the fear of that hold you back. Fear is the mind killer. You'll always be learning its great! All that wood is exceptional wood, I wouldn't cut anything down until I knew what I was doing with it or absolutely had to for storage issues, someday you might find you need some big scrap pieces. Make whatever will makes you happy The issue is I am having problems finding plans that are suitable to use this wood, I do not have a jointer or thicknesser so am limited in what I can do.
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Aug 16, 2020 14:40
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Vier posted:The issue is I am having problems finding plans that are suitable to use this wood, I do not have a jointer or thicknesser so am limited in what I can do. Get a hand plane and roll up your sleeves
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Aug 16, 2020 14:50
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Vier posted:Somehow I have ended up with too much wood, as a newbie to woodworking I do not know what to do with any of it or what any of the species are. Well, what do you want to have? Do you want a side table? A coat rack? A cabinet? I think you should figure out what you want, and then figure out how to make it from what you have. From the pictures, it looks like most pieces are under four feet, which limits your options somewhat.
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Aug 16, 2020 15:31
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Don't be afraid to use wood, pick something you want to do then pick the nicest piece(s) of wood to do that thing.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:13
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Vier posted:The issue is I am having problems finding plans that are suitable to use this wood, I do not have a jointer or thicknesser so am limited in what I can do. In that case, stack it tastefully into a zen shrine and worship it
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Aug 16, 2020 18:29
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Spookydonut posted:Don't be afraid to use wood, pick something you want to do then pick the nicest piece(s) of wood to do that thing. Agreed. While it sucks to waste wood, it's not the end of the world. I wouldn't go buying the really expensive stuff when I'm learning, but it's no big deal to waste a few board feet of cherry or walnut even.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:35
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I blame you, woodworking thread. What have you done to me? My neighbor has an arborist over and they are cutting down something, I'm not 100% sure what it is, and running it into a giant chipper. All I can think is "should I be over there trying to save a giant trunk to make boards from?" E: It appears it's some pretty damaged juniper trees. Olothreutes fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 18:59
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Save some slices, polish and seal them, make them into clocks.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:14
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Spookydonut posted:Save some slices, polish and seal them, make them into clocks. They were pretty far gone, lots of rot. Also I'm super allergic to juniper pollen and foliage, just touching the stuff is enough to give me mild hives. But I'm definitely going to be watching for some other stuff. My neighbor across the fence ripped out a pomegranate tree because they are morons and didn't know what it was. They also cut down a maple in their front yard, but left a bunch of ratty, half dead juniper trees standing so they can drizzle pollen into my yard for 3/4 of the year. There are also a ton of mulberry trees in the neighborhood that are like 60 years old or so, some of them have trunks like six feet wide. If one of those ever goes down I'm buying a chainsaw that day.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:30
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Agreed. While it sucks to waste wood, it's not the end of the world. I wouldn't go buying the really expensive stuff when I'm learning, but it's no big deal to waste a few board feet of cherry or walnut even. You think this stuff just grows on trees?  To be honest Vier, if you don't know what you have who cares if you gently caress it up. Nobody but you would know it took 2 boards instead of 1 to complete a project and from the sound of it you didn't pay (a lot?) for it.
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Aug 16, 2020 22:19
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JEEVES420 posted:You think this stuff just grows on trees? I agree with this. There's that adage about perfect being the enemy of good, and the grad school mantra "done is better than perfect." Just make the things and don't worry if you don't use a board perfectly.
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Aug 17, 2020 00:09
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Vier posted:Here's a gallery showing what I have ended up collecting. Do any of the pieces stand out as being exceptional? The upright piece that's on the floor has some checking (splitting). If you want something big to just test out tools on, or make something "rustic" looking, that's a good option to grab. quote:All told you've got lots of pieces there. Probably not a bunch of consistent long pieces that you'd make big furniture out of, but if you can get a hold of a hand saw, maybe a hand plane, a drill, some screws and wood glue, some sandpaper, some clamps, and a place to work, there's a ton of small projects to do. I would not advise cutting them all down at once. Pick one thing you want to make, and use just the wood to make that one thing. If you want to turn a pen, cut a piece suitable to turning that pen, and go for it. Don't make 100 pens worth of wood and then discover five pens in that you're kind of done making pens now.
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Aug 17, 2020 00:21
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Just say it’s all mahogany.
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Aug 17, 2020 03:34
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Have you looked at the scrap wood challenge yt channel - might give you some ideas.
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Aug 17, 2020 09:08
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Have you looked at the scrap wood challenge yt channel - might give you some ideas. Pask Makes is the channel for those interested. Neil Paskin is his name and he lives down the road from me. Bumped into him a few times and had a chat. Absolute legend of a guy.
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Aug 17, 2020 11:08
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Beardcrumb posted:Pask Makes is the channel for those interested. His projects are great. Some are pretty ambitious though so might be off-putting to a newcomer. What state is he in if you don't mind saying? It feels like north/central Queensland in some videos but I get the feeling it might be the NSW central coast? Just want to satisfy my curiosity.
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Aug 17, 2020 12:23
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Granite Octopus posted:His projects are great. Some are pretty ambitious though so might be off-putting to a newcomer.
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Aug 17, 2020 12:59
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So I think I may have set my woodworking skills back 20 years. 20 years ago, I got a nice Milwaukee router and a cheapo $20 set of router bits. It was and still is a beast. BUT, I never had much luck with it. I always burned the wood and ended up with wavy bullshit, so I never really used it. Last year I had a crew installing a hardwood floor in my house and they ended up short on the bottom step platform, which was 5/4 white oak with a 1/2" roundover top and bottom. They were on the last day and I wanted to get the job done, so I went to Home Depot and got a Freud 1/2" roundover bit and put it in the router on the router table and it did a fantastic job. That got me thinking about the router again. Right now I'm working on a built-in bookcase/tv center:  Before I started, I had to try the router again. I got a 23/32" Freud mortising bit to make the dados for the 3/4 plywood I'm using. First try, absolutely worked perfectly. base cabinets clicked together perfectly. Now I'm looking at a 4 1/2" baseboard and I'm trying to figure out what profile I want on the top edge. I took out an ogee bit from the cheapo kit just to see if I liked the profile... and damned if I can't get anything but garbage out of it. Nothing but burning and waviness, even taking 1/8" of depth at a time. My question: Am I right to assume that poo poo bits are going to give poo poo work? I'm assuming yes. If that's true, is there a middle ground for home-gamer bits that aren't Freud price?
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Aug 17, 2020 14:23
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EVERYWHERE 
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As I understand it, burning is because you're going too slowly. Going too fast, in contrast, causes chipping and potentially kickback. Burning is exacerbated by having a high RPM, and some woods like maple are just more prone to burning. Wavy results suggest to me that you aren't working with flat surfaces, either the workpiece or the router table if you're using a table. If you're using a guide bearing on the router bit, then you also need to make sure that the surface that the bearing is running along is flat.
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Aug 17, 2020 14:42
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:and some woods like maple are just more prone to burning.  So that's why all my chess pieces keep getting burn.
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Aug 17, 2020 14:44
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