|
Slavvy posted:I snap the sticks off and throw them in the bin, the stubby heads by themselves are able to fit inside the grease container with the lid closed. So I have grease and an applicator brush in one easy package, girlfriend. What you mean is you snap the tails off. This is really interesting, that you think the stick part is the head. The brush part is obviously the head, to me (and to at least Horse Clocks). Aren't you across the pond? Maybe it's a UK thing? Edit: noticed later in your sentence you refer to the brush part as "the stubby heads" so actually you're just being inconsistent now, and I have no idea what you think is heads or tails, and can no longer draw any conclusive results. epswing fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Aug 14, 2020 |
# ? Aug 14, 2020 21:34 |
|
|
# ? May 16, 2024 16:39 |
|
epalm posted:What you mean is you snap the tails off. This is really interesting, that you think the stick part is the head. The brush part is obviously the head, to me (and to at least Horse Clocks). Aren't you across the pond? Maybe it's a UK thing? It doesn't matter whether you snap off the head or the stick, the end result is the same.
|
# ? Aug 14, 2020 21:37 |
|
High Protein posted:It doesn't matter whether you snap off the head or the stick, the end result is the same. Well of course it's the same thing, I'm just fascinated that anyone would consider the stick part of a paintbrush to be the "head" instead of the "tail".
|
# ? Aug 14, 2020 21:41 |
|
epalm posted:Well of course it's the same thing, I'm just fascinated that anyone would consider the stick part of a paintbrush to be the "head" instead of the "tail". New Zealand has a dearth of native wildlife with tails, so naturally the sticky outey bit is the head and the fluffy part is the arse
|
# ? Aug 14, 2020 22:04 |
Slavvy posted:I get 8x lovely painting brushes from a dollar shop, snap the heads off and use those. Really great for nailing the mythical and oft-referenced thin smear of grease. Also you don't get grease everywhere. Slavvy posted:I snap the sticks off and throw them in the bin, the stubby heads by themselves are able to fit inside the grease container with the lid closed. So I have grease and an applicator brush in one easy package, girlfriend. Are you people illiterate or what? Or does 'stick' mean 'brush part' in the northern hemisphere somehow?
|
|
# ? Aug 14, 2020 22:55 |
|
Just because he snapped the heads off doesn't mean he can't use the part he snapped off. In fact, Slavvy says he snaps the heads off and uses those. He is far across the pond, he's practically Australian. *edit* This reminds of that famous bodybuilding.com thread MomJeans420 fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Aug 15, 2020 |
# ? Aug 14, 2020 23:57 |
|
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 03:04 |
|
Geography is not at play here, I’m also “practically Australian” and had no idea what he was on about. If you snap something off, you generally don’t use the bit you remove. And when the other comments were about using sticks, it just sounded like a very roundabout way to get sticks.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 13:42 |
|
What the gently caress is this conversation? If I was talking about getting soap onto something and said "I got a mop, broke the head off, and used that" nobody would think I meant I was using the stick part, right?
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 14:30 |
|
People just assumed he meant the wooden part of the brush because it was being presented as an alternative to a popsickle stick.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 15:14 |
|
lol @ thread title
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 18:18 |
|
My "The head of a paint brush isnt not the wooden part" thread title has people asking lots of questions already answered by the thread title.
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 18:25 |
|
Life hack: if you ever find it difficult to get lubricant into small spaces on your bike with a paint brush head, try gluing it to an ice lolly stick for a longer reach
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 18:27 |
Do you guys actually read the words on the screen or do you like half read them and fill in the gaps with whatever you assume is being talked about? I can't think of any other way to explain the last page, I don't understand at all.
|
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 19:38 |
|
Slavvy posted:Do you guys actually read the words on the screen or do you like half read them and fill in the gaps with whatever you assume is being talked about? I can't think of any other way to explain the last page, I don't understand at all. Like, barely even the latter. What do you use the toothbrush for again?
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 20:13 |
|
I’m the IK here and I maybe quarter read the posts
|
# ? Aug 15, 2020 23:35 |
|
This last page had been comedy gold.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2020 00:39 |
|
Slavvy posted:Do you guys actually read the words on the screen or do you like half read them and fill in the gaps with whatever you assume is being talked about? I can't think of any other way to explain the last page, I don't understand at all. Thanks man, I try to keep it cut short in the summer so it doesn’t get all matted with sweat on long rides.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2020 03:42 |
|
Behold, an actual question. Probably a stupid one. What is it that actually locks the steering left and right? I’ve been trying to track down what, if anything, is bent in my front end, so I removed the front fender and had the steering head nut, bar clamps, riser bolts, upper and lower triple tree pinch bolts, fork pinch bolts, and front axle loosened up, all together and in various combinations. (No, I still don’t really know what’s bent, I think the triple tree, fork tubes, and/or handlebars need to come out if I want to really figure this out. It’s infuriating.) Anyhow, I tried tightening things in various orders, eventually gave up and got everything all buttoned up, but now, when I turn the bars to the right they stop/lock in the usual place, but when I turn the bars left, I feel cables pulling, and it never stops, just keeps going until it pinches the left control cables. What have I done.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 01:15 |
|
First of all, that's not how I would straighten the forks. Just loosen the pinch bolts on the axle, and just the bottom triple pinch bolts. Keep the top triple bolts tightened. Then roll it forward and slam the front brake a bunch of times. Then tighten everything. Cables might have gotten caught or misrouted when you took everything off. Steering stops are just some molded metal that hits a bolt or something on the frame/yoke. You'll see it if you look. On some bikes it's adjustable. On 690s it's adjustable but not half far enough.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 01:36 |
|
Coydog posted:First of all, that's not how I would straighten the forks. Just loosen the pinch bolts on the axle, and just the bottom triple pinch bolts. Keep the top triple bolts tightened. Then roll it forward and slam the front brake a bunch of times. Then tighten everything. Yeah, tried that first. More than once. Still crooked Coydog posted:Cables might have gotten caught or misrouted when you took everything off. Ok thanks, I’ll look for the stops.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 02:22 |
|
I mean, your bars could be bent. Or the bars twisted in the mounts. You loosen all that up too?
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 02:42 |
|
epalm posted:Yeah, tried that first. More than once. Still crooked A couple examples of what they might look like: On an FZ06, that little black tab on the fork clamp interacts with the big black slab at the bottom of the yoke. On an FE 250 the fork clamp just wangs off these bolts (clamp and bolt circled separately, it's hard to capture on camera) I had issues with a bent steering stop tab on my SV650 that let the bars over-rotate a little too far, and the throttle would get sticky.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 02:59 |
|
Coydog posted:I mean, your bars could be bent. Or the bars twisted in the mounts. You loosen all that up too? Yeah, the handlebar mounts too. Posted some pictures a few pages back. The front wheel's pointing straight ahead in this photo, the triple clamp is pretty clearly rotated clockwise: I had everything loose, and no matter how slowly I went, with everything torqued to spec, the handlebars are still crooked in the same way. Which leads me to believe something is physically bent. To try and narrow my search, I even swapped the left/right handlebar mounts, and spun each fork 180 degrees (don't know if this was a good idea, never really played with forks before), no improvement, so maybe the forks and handlebar mounts are fine and it's the triple clamp, or the handlebars themselves. Elviscat posted:A couple examples of what they might look like: That's helpful, thanks.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 03:48 |
It's definitely the bars, triple clamps bending isn't really a thing and the bars are by far both the weakest thing on that front end AND the hardest to judge straightness on. It sounds to me like you routed something around the outside of a fork leg instead of the inside.
|
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 04:10 |
|
Your bars are obviously tweaked in that photo. I know this because I'm ocd about bar/fork/steering straightness.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 04:47 |
|
Slavvy posted:It's definitely the bars, triple clamps bending isn't really a thing and the bars are by far both the weakest thing on that front end AND the hardest to judge straightness on. Coydog posted:Your bars are obviously tweaked in that photo. Me too! I agree that the bars are not straight. But that doesn't explain why the edge of the triple clamp is not perpendicular to centerline of the bike when the tire is pointed straight. Slavvy posted:It sounds to me like you routed something around the outside of a fork leg instead of the inside. I never had the fork legs out, so the routing should be the same. I had everything loose, but nothing apart.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 04:50 |
|
Everything looks canted a few degrees to the right, bars, gauge, turn signals, forks. I don’t have any mechanical wisdom but I see what you’re saying.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 12:15 |
|
epalm posted:Anyhow, I tried tightening things in various orders, eventually gave up and got everything all buttoned up, but now, when I turn the bars to the right they stop/lock in the usual place, but when I turn the bars left, I feel cables pulling, and it never stops, just keeps going until it pinches the left control cables. The "can't lock steering left" ended up being the left signal light, which has a little vertical bracket that slots into the lower triple clamp, to prevent the light from rotating left/right. The bracket was sticking out, pointing towards the rear of the bike, and when the bars turned left, it was contacting the plastics forward of the front cylinder. Left a nice gash at least it's fixed now. I ended up loosening the front end up one more time, and with the help of some bungee cords to apply some pressure to hold the tire one way, and the forks the other (in lieu of having a friend help out), the triple trees are now straight and everything is pretty well aligned. So maybe nothing's actually bent!? Obviously now I have to take the whole front end apart over the winter to know for sure! epswing fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Aug 20, 2020 |
# ? Aug 19, 2020 16:38 |
|
I've been running Pirelli Diablo Rosso IIs and now Michelin Power RS on my little KTM RC390 commuter and Pilot Power then Rosso Corsas on my MV Agusta. The Diablo Rossos were awesome 3 season tires and surprisingly sticky in the wet. The Power RS are really sticky in the dry but worse in the wet than the Rosso IIs, but I'm fine with that. The Power RS has now been superseded by the Power GP which falls between the Power 5 (more road) and Power Cup 2 (more trackday). Has anyone been running the Power GP, Power Cup 2 or Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SP (V2 or V3) as your main road tires? Any opinions on them including on warm up times and adverse weather conditions? I think I'm going to go full Supercorsa SP V3 on the MV but haven't decided on the KTM yet.
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 00:04 |
|
Supercorsas do not have a good reputation in the rain, they were stock on the Daytona 675s and most people swapped away from them if they did any riding in wet conditions. *edit* but for nice weather they were very well regarded
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 00:16 |
|
Thanks. I'll go with the Power GP once the Power RS need replacement on the KTM since I ride 4 seasons on the KTM. The MV is more of a weekend bike these days so the Supercorsas will be fine.
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 02:20 |
|
FWIW I've switched from Supercorsas on the Daytona to Dunlop Q3+ because it's my do everything bike and I do long trips in the rain sometimes, but I was 100% set at putting on Supercorsa V3 on my project bike except they weren't made in the right size. I almost did Battlax RS10s on the project bike, but did Battlax S22s because my mountain roads get cold.
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 17:31 |
|
My air filter is dirty. I'm planning to just blow it out with compressed air, but do I have to oil the thing after?
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 14:15 |
|
Strife posted:My air filter is dirty. I'm planning to just blow it out with compressed air, but do I have to oil the thing after? depends on what kind it is. if it's a foam one, then yeah, but honestly if you have it out why not just wash it or replace it if its paper?
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 14:21 |
|
Strife posted:My air filter is dirty. I'm planning to just blow it out with compressed air, but do I have to oil the thing after? The other important thing for air filters is when you put them back make sure they’re in place and fully seated. You might think this is obvious and you will do it and it will be fine but it’s something you should always always always double check.
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 14:49 |
|
right arm posted:depends on what kind it is. if it's a foam one, then yeah, but honestly if you have it out why not just wash it or replace it if its paper? Cotton, apparently. And I can't seem to find a replacement part number for the filter element itself.
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 14:50 |
Strife posted:Cotton, apparently. And I can't seem to find a replacement part number for the filter element itself. Look at the filter really carefully, Harleys come with both not-cleanable paper and reusable oiled paper types. They usually say 'do not oil' or something to that effect if they're a dry type. The oiled type I've seen have all been k&n, if so you need a set of cleaner+luber sprays or you'll never get the dirt out properly.
|
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 20:03 |
|
It makes sense to install new front brake pads while I'm replacing the brake lines, right?
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 20:24 |
|
|
# ? May 16, 2024 16:39 |
|
Pads are easy enough to change later (on all the bikes I've owned, this isn't a trick question, right?) If they're worn down pretty far, sure, take the opportunity, but if they've still got some pad thickness left, I'd leave them.
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 20:28 |