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Some kind of stand is most likely, to go with my planned outside forge setup, so I am gonna have to be able to put it away when done.
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Aug 7, 2020 19:31
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Ambrose Burnside posted:working on a chasing/repousse project for the first time in ages; it’s gift for an artist, i’m gonna surprise them with a lil brass embossed plaque of one of their own illustrations. my linework is very, very rusty but i’m slowly putting it back together (just in time to be done the linework, natch) update: it's basically finished  just needs some cleaning up with mineral spirits to get the pitch residue off, then i'm gonna give it the usual liver of sulphur patina to antique it a bit + bring out the textures by increasing the contrast between low and high spots project wrap notes mostly for myself, i go digging through old posts in here for past project info surprisingly often: - doing the initial lining and first embossing phase on a thin silicone rubber pad set on an anvil is fantastic for saving a lot of time where you don't need to be super-precise - using a teardrop punch to hint at feathers for the main body worked v well and is sparing of your time and effort - same w the quail headfeather texturing, the liner marks work great for implying 'grain/direction' - the perpendicular liner marks on the body stripes are not great and break up the general feel of things - irl california quail have different-coloured top/bottom halves of the face, i just kind of gave up on finding a way to differentiate one from the other, ergo i shouldna lined in the dividing line for the halves at all - using those pockmark texture punches for the background is getting kind of old, but it really is a great way to obliterate any/all surface defects or errors around the design perimeter. gotta figure out more ways to achieve the same thing Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 01:17
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for the canucks in the house, princess auto is now offering a ready-made single-burner forge in their pro-point line: https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/the-apprentice-1-burner-forge/A-p8933640e $800 seems a little steep and i have no idea if it's any good (i'm not a big fan of that square-firechamber side-swingout style to start with, prone to running cold, uneven heating and incomplete fuel combustion imo) but i forget how much of a PITA it is to build a decent forge without welding/fabrication tools. and i'll always pay a premium to get that Princess Auto Return Policy, the real reason to buy a forge from PA over any other vendor e: the phrase "apartment hydraulic press" is entering my lexicon, to my partner's infinite chagrin Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Aug 8, 2020 |
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Aug 8, 2020 21:30
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A while back I was looking for a modern refillable water fire extinguisher-equivalent product; not to replace my existing shop chemical extinguisher, but rather to augment it, basically an option for small conventional fires that don't warrant the mess and use of a one-time ABC extinguisher/ where a fire blanket isn't practical. Spray guns and perforated dipper ladles and "throwing water in the fire's general direction with a cup" are the existing (bad) things I've used previously. I think I finally found something I like, for people's edification- a high-pressure refillable spot sprayer.  You can charge it with an air compressor and then leave it pressurized indefinitely, ready to go + you can adjust the nozzle from stream to mist + carries at least a litre of water, which were my main criteria that plant misters and the like didn't meet. I don't know the max flow rate you can get or how much water can be sprayed with a single air charge, so it might not be useful for more than small welding flare-ups, but I'll give it a try and if I don't like it I'll just use it to spray oil or rust remover or sth Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 03:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:A while back I was looking for a modern refillable water fire extinguisher-equivalent product; not to replace my existing shop chemical extinguisher, but rather to augment it, basically an option for small conventional fires that don't warrant the mess and use of a one-time ABC extinguisher/ where a fire blanket isn't practical. Spray guns and perforated dipper ladles and "throwing water in the fire's general direction with a cup" are the existing (bad) things I've used previously. I think I finally found something I like, for people's edification- a high-pressure refillable spot sprayer. They don't hold pressure the same way (as long) as an extinguisher, that one you posted probably isn't rated for water or water based liquids (that type is available) and why aren't you just buying the thing that already exists for this and is rated for the task? A PW - pressurized water extinguisher. When you see the rating for class A fires on an extinguisher, for example 3A, it's literally describing that "this extinguisher can put out just as much class A fire as a 3 gallon PW".
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Aug 12, 2020 17:12
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Metal related question. I’ve got a rowing machine that has sat unused for so long that the metal foot is now preventing it from unfolding. Normally that thinner piece in the middle is angled away from the main beam, not parallel to it, allowing the perpendicular beam to swing around and straighten out. However, it looks like the weight of the machine has bent that thin piece and gotten the unfolding beam stuck. Is there a way to un(re?)bend it?
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Aug 12, 2020 22:33
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So the piece at the bottom is supposed to pivot clockwise around that nut? Does it have any wiggle room the other direction? If that foot is sprung against it just smack the poo poo out of it with a hammer until it pops loose, otherwise try taking the hinge apart and putting it back together in the other hole. E: or take it apart and put it back together in the same hole, but positioned so it can move where you want it to. I think it's more likely that the swingy piece got pulled too far and popped out of it's cage than that the foot bent. shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 22:51
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yeah i'd just put on some work gloves (so you don't get pinched) and pull that piece outwards enough to swing the frame into position and do so and leave it at that. That's probably what, 3/16" steel? Easy to flex half an inch by hand.
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Aug 12, 2020 23:40
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Motronic posted:They don't hold pressure the same way (as long) as an extinguisher, that one you posted probably isn't rated for water or water based liquids (that type is available) and why aren't you just buying the thing that already exists for this and is rated for the task? A PW - pressurized water extinguisher. Those are... all good points, doy. I was under the impression that pressurized water extinguishers didn't meet modern fire safety standards and aren't being made new any more- I've considered picking up an antique extinguisher previously at an estate sale but didn't want to roll the dice on it still being in working order. I haven't spent any money yet so thanks
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Aug 13, 2020 03:47
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Those are... all good points, doy. I was under the impression that pressurized water extinguishers didn't meet modern fire safety standards and aren't being made new any more- I've considered picking up an antique extinguisher previously at an estate sale but didn't want to roll the dice on it still being in working order. Cool, happy to help. I've been buying my extinguishers from a couple of places on eBay. The guy I bought my last PW from doesn't have any listed right now, but it was around $110 including shipping, was refurbed and hydrotested/tagged and came with spare parts (o rings, extra valve, etc). You probably want to stick to Amerex or Buckeye. Also, there are water mist extinguishers. They interrupt the water stream while you're spraying to prevent you from getting zapped if it hits power. If that's the kind of thing that seems useful to you here's one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMEREX-MOD...ooAAOSwv-Ze8jpG The nozzle is more complicated so it requires more maintenance. So there's good and bad there. A basic PW is just stupid simple. If there's water in it and the gauge says it's got pressure it's gonna work, and the worst case scenario is that is works TOO WELL (i.e., valve won't close once you crack it open because you haven't maintained it properly). I do'nt know where you're at and where this will live, but one of mine is in the barn and it freezes here. I filled it with RV antifreeze. Works fine.
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Aug 13, 2020 16:33
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I started writing about this in the woodworking thread but I am finishing it here, since the last part was all metalwork.   I think I wanna add some loops or somesuch to hang tools from. Wonder if I should char the wood a little with the propane torch. Edit: Thinking I will add a 10mm bottom plate to make it a bit more stable. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:28 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 16:41
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His Divine Shadow posted:I started writing about this in the woodworking thread but I am finishing it here, since the last part was all metalwork. Very nice. I think you're right about the 10mm bottom plate. Charred wood is always a cool look IMO
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Aug 16, 2020 14:31
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His Divine Shadow posted:I started writing about this in the woodworking thread but I am finishing it here, since the last part was all metalwork. If 10 will make it more stable why not 25 lol Also I agree with previous poster, toast that wood
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Aug 16, 2020 15:19
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Just curious: Welding automotive/equipment exhaust pipes and you only have a stick welder. Its not stainless, just "regular" (probably aluminized) steel. We're going to assume proper set up and the rods themselves aren't pencil thick. What rods would you use? Based on a previous question I posted in here, it seems like the answer would be 6013. Since it seems to be better for thinner materials.
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Aug 16, 2020 15:46
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McSpergin posted:If 10 will make it more stable why not 25 lol Well the plate would be bigger so less tipping risk. 
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Aug 16, 2020 17:16
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I vote don't burn the wood, let it happen gradually as you use it for the next 50 years.
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Aug 16, 2020 17:52
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His Divine Shadow posted:Well the plate would be bigger so less tipping risk. Ah I see, I wasn't sure if that's the way you meant (I assumed so, otherwise I can imagine it being less stable and frequent calls of ay vittu perkele coming from your shed lol)
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Aug 17, 2020 00:53
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Wouldn’t a plate be a bollocks if you put it anywhere not totally flat and level? What about bolt on Corner pieces with enough slop that you can let them self level. I mean do whatever you want I’m not arguing, if that’s knuckle height you’re clearly a magnificent specimen of a man and not to be hosed with. Edit: what’s that horizontal hardy hole on the neck for?
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Aug 17, 2020 08:40
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I will be keeping it on mostly level ground, but I have considered drilling holes in the edges and tapping them for bolts, so if I find there is any rocking, I can adjust one or two corners a little. That's the idea anyway. I'm just 6'2", it's a bit above knuckle height now. I'd rather go a bit too tall than too low. Edit: I think the horizontal hole has something to do with the manufacturing process, not sure it serves any function besides that.
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Aug 17, 2020 09:02
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Way back in the day you could run a bar through it as a way to pick the thing up and carry it around to lay in a fire and then quench, they are usually below or right on the center of gravity so the anvil carries upside down. Not sure if there's any point to it with modern day manufacturing threelemmings fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 13:24
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This was a good video, it's in swedish but has actually good english captions, not auto generated. Very detailed stuff on forge welding. I learned a lot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUjXuVFh4-0 Also, this is me next to my anvil, so you get an idea of the relative height. Maybe it just looks tall on it's own. 
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Aug 18, 2020 06:32
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Only thing I'd add to the video is that it is possible to weld without flux, which is something you should try since it will really really get your eye in for picking out the time to jump in and tack it up. But using flux definitely makes it much much easier, and I would always use it when welding two different materials, I would only go fluxless on a production piece if I was welding self to self. Also something that guy didn't mention is paradoxically then thinner the piece the harder it is to weld since everything heats so fast and the like between welding and burning is much smaller. That little piece he was working on was also mixing mild and high carbon steel if I read the translation right, which adds its own problems. Impressive weld overall. If you're learning to forge weld I suggest making rings out of like ten inches of half by quarter. Make them flat at first, then try a couple that are oriented like a wedding ring. There's obviously a lot of forge welded things you can do, everyone loves knives and Damascus obviously, but with rings you're forging self to self, you don't gotta manage two separate pieces , and most importantly when you put the circle on a mandrel or the bick you'll know pretty soon if your weld is good or not. Doing that for 20 hours or so will get you set for forge welding anything else. Also as to anvil height it was already stated: Rapulum_Dei posted:I mean do whatever you want I’m not arguing, if that’s knuckle height you’re clearly a magnificent specimen of a man and not to be hosed with. You are an inch or two above knuckles, which will probably make it a touch harder to hold stuff between your legs to chisel or cut. It's a nerves-inducing but useful technique from time to time. I've personally never liked doing that so I don't know if you're missing out on much, bit it has been extremely helpful from time to time. Edit: I think comfortable hammering rates much higher than one occasionally used niche technique, so I'd focus on that, to be clear. You're not losing out on much if you end up wanting it higher. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 15:04
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Lots of possible stuff to do for sure. Last night I bought two 55 gallon drums, turns out the guy selling was my old IT teacher in high school in the mid 90s, he didn't quite recognize me until my SO who came a long mentioned my name. A simple side blast forge is the plan, using firebricks, sand or bentonite clay or both so I can reshape the firepit and also use charcoal if I want to. I did buy a 25kg sack of smithing coke and it was almost 50 euros.. I want to cut down the bottom barrel and put the other one on top, and make a side cutout so I get a forge with a hood & chimney. This way I can get started faster and get an idea of what I like or dislike before building a mk2 forge with say a water cooled tyuere. And I don't got no room indoors so I need a setup that can live 100% outdoors. A hood should help with that, shade it provides is I understand good to have since sunlighgt can make it hard to accurately gage the temp of the pieces being forged. Since the top barrel is gonna be filled with insulating dirt and firebrick, I think the bottom barrel should be nicely sealed from the outside and shouldn't get oven hot, so I could used it to store coke or charcoal. By adding a hatch on the side of the bottom part I could use a small shovel withdraw and deposit coke. Then I should have everything in a compact setup that can live outside and I can wheel the anvil in and out as needed.  Also got an axe head, currently marinating in the electrolysis bath 
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Aug 19, 2020 09:17
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Wouldn’t a plate be a bollocks if you put it anywhere not totally flat and level? What about bolt on Corner pieces with enough slop that you can let them self level. Most anvil stands I see use three legs for just this reason. OTOH I have worked in a few shops with flat bottomed stands, because they were in a shop with proper concrete floors so it didn't matter.
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Aug 19, 2020 12:03
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Cleaned up the axe head:   
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Aug 19, 2020 17:23
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I really need to set up an electrolysis bath like that.
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Aug 19, 2020 17:28
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I still had to take a grinder with a wire brush to it to get off the black gunk that tends to form in the electrolysis bath. So it didn't come out of the bath like that.
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Aug 19, 2020 17:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:I still had to take a grinder with a wire brush to it to get off the black gunk that tends to form in the electrolysis bath. So it didn't come out of the bath like that. Fair enough, but I already have a grinder and several twist brush attachments!
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Aug 19, 2020 17:53
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 Screwdrivers anyone? Why they have 50 tubs stored indoors yet the same location has 300 ton presses, CNC's, and EDM's stored outside is beyond me.
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Aug 21, 2020 13:46
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That’s a great price just for the tubs.
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Aug 21, 2020 14:41
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Aprox 50? Aprox? C’mon I don’t maths gud but even I can count to between 40 and 60.
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Aug 21, 2020 15:30
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Yooper posted:
Well did you win your bid? That auction seems to have completed a couple hours ago.
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Aug 22, 2020 00:50
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Leperflesh posted:Well did you win your bid? That auction seems to have completed a couple hours ago.  Nope, I probably should have bid and made bespoke screwdrivers for awhile. Looks like it was from Western Forge, the largest american manufacturer of screwdrivers. For whatever reason the parent company declined to renew a contract with Sears that led to the plant closing 3 years later. I guess that explains the tooling sitting outside.
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Aug 22, 2020 01:19
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Back to working on my box of dirt forge Lining the bottom with bricks we got for free, I need to turn the bricks around, the air should come from the side, not the back. I will drill a hole for a pipe and fill with a mix of sand and bentonite and shape a firepit.  I believe I will use the 2nd drum as a chimney. I have been told it's an extremely effective setup. I wanna get any smoke away from the neighbors. Also got the coke:    Looks like OK quality coke to anyone who knows this stuff? For 50 euros I am expecting the best coke in the world.
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Aug 22, 2020 07:23
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In the end it's all just rocks from out of the ground. Those look like some high quality pre-cooked rocks though. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 12:40 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 22, 2020 12:36
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Mixed some sand and bentonite today, got a bit "multi-level" since I didn't make enough to fill it up evenly, but I got a 3 inch deep fire pit as is, can always add more mix later. Or put a brick on the left side and just build the pile higher. Or tear it down and reshape it completely. That's the beauty of the design.  edit: Filled it in some more 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 22, 2020 17:28
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Aaand fire:  Mostly just to burn it in, harden the clay up a bit. Without a fan of any kind. Then I tried a hair drier and coke:     Got hot AF and I had to run like 20 meters inside to the anvil but I got a hook beaten into this piece of steel, which happened to be carbon steel.
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Aug 23, 2020 18:31
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Thought you guys might appreciate this, about 12 minutes in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZM2Pel-fgIo Custom all-in-one rivet press for copper boat rivets.
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Aug 23, 2020 20:53
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Ran into this cool video of metalworking and found myself with a burning need to share it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuuPeFV9W8M I could watch artisans and craftesmen doing their thing all day long.
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Aug 25, 2020 13:55
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Zernach posted:Ran into this cool video of metalworking and found myself with a burning need to share it. There are days I make something and feel good about my craftsmanship, then I see a video like this... Though this is a lifetime of craft, so I probably shouldn't feel too bad.
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Aug 25, 2020 15:13
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