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Does anyone have some suggestions for how to spray-prime minis in Florida (ie, "humidity is always a problem") when you live in an apartment? I don't have a garage to use and can't prime inside, and priming outside results in high-humidity spraypaint nastiness.
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Aug 15, 2020 23:43
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Zurai posted:Does anyone have some suggestions for how to spray-prime minis in Florida (ie, "humidity is always a problem") when you live in an apartment? I don't have a garage to use and can't prime inside, and priming outside results in high-humidity spraypaint nastiness. 
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Aug 15, 2020 23:46
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This with a fan pointing out of the window
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Aug 15, 2020 23:58
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 Finished some grubby (and somewhat out of focus) chaos cultists.
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Aug 16, 2020 00:16
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I decided I didn't like the colour scheme I came up with for my AT buildings last week. Much happier with this one (Necron for scale). 
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Aug 16, 2020 01:15
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XpostNUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:I know, I know, it's just the humble Cadian Infantry. But this is the first mini I've painted in uhhh 15 years? And even back then I wasn't very good. So I'm happy with this
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Aug 16, 2020 03:38
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Skails posted:Thanks Awesome, thanks!
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Aug 16, 2020 06:50
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Zurai posted:Does anyone have some suggestions for how to spray-prime minis in Florida (ie, "humidity is always a problem") when you live in an apartment? I don't have a garage to use and can't prime inside, and priming outside results in high-humidity spraypaint nastiness. Just to back to the ancient ways of using a brush and thin paint.
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Aug 16, 2020 08:28
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Thanks for the recommendations, there were a couple of possibilities despite the massive titty demon contingent. I’m surprised how traditional they all look though; the quality is massively improved since the 80’s, but the aesthetics have hardly shifted at all.
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Aug 16, 2020 10:45
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WIP on a Dark Imperium Hellblaster, trying to nail down a process for the army before my copy of Indomitus shows up. Doing more or less a Flesh Tearers scheme, but likely won't use their chapter symbol when I get around to putting transfers on. Can't decide if I want to push the highlights further, especially on the red. The main chest isn't highlighted much since it's 99% covered by the plasma gun, which is sad since I feel like the chest areas is one of the best looking parts of the Primaris models. Also can't decide on doing greys vs blues for highlighting the blacks. Normally I'd do blue but it feels off with the red even though I use a dark grey/blue to shade the red. It's especially hard to get the helmet to look right, which is why it's not in the picture! Plasma needs a complete repaint also, have not decided on how I am going to do that.  Also some test bases for the army, though it's really hard to get the colors to show up without a better photo setup. The left two are just the water effects and you can really see how it refuses to cure in a completely flat state. The right two I used some clear crackle medium over the water effects which looks a lot better IMO but I am still not 100% happy with the effect. I have some real two part epoxy resin showing up which I will give a shot and see what I can do with that. One effect I do like is breaking up the crackle medium into shards and using those as jagged ice.
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Aug 16, 2020 10:46
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I think the leather looks incredible on that model 
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Aug 16, 2020 10:48
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I think if you're going to add weathering then the model is fine as is but if it's "done" then you probably want to do a glaze to bring up the colour saturation
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Aug 16, 2020 11:06
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I got a couple of characters from the box set done! 
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Aug 16, 2020 16:56
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I would also like to know how you did that leather! Personally I like the red - I think any more highlighting would start taking it into an orange-ish territory. If anything I think you could probably push contrast through the shadows, with maybe a slightly more saturated dark blue in the deepest shade.
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Aug 16, 2020 16:57
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I speed painted Cojo for my Marcus crew. I forgot to fill the gaps, so that's just great. 
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Aug 16, 2020 17:46
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That butt would make sir mix a lot proud
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Aug 16, 2020 17:47
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Spanish Manlove posted:That butt would make sir mix a lot proud
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Aug 16, 2020 18:29
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Every single time I ever use the little needle-tip applicator for Zap-A-Gap, the first time I ever use it it pretty much gets back-filled with glue which dries and becomes useless. What the gently caress am I doing wrong?  Like literally every bottle of this stuff I've ever bought it happens
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Aug 16, 2020 21:33
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Crosspost from 40k, celebrating my one month painting anniversary.  
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Aug 16, 2020 21:35
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Cross post from the 40k thread. I love contrast paints!Verisimilidude posted:Working on some ork test models. I think I’ve settled on this quick and easy scheme!
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Aug 16, 2020 21:38
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Mk 2 scheme: Skipped the Athonian Camoshade after drybrushig on Bonewhite, and skipped the brown-green wash airbrush step 1. I like this one WAY more. I also re-watched that Jungle Base video a few times and realized I skipped a few steps. I still can't quite seem to get mine to pop like he did in that video, but again I like this one much more than the previous iteration. Unfortunately I lost the power cable for my light box, and some of the buttons for it to snap together broke since I last used it, so here it is with my cellphone flash 
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Aug 16, 2020 23:38
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Sab669 posted:Mk 2 scheme: That base looks much better! And the dude also looks good. The red is a much better colour for the eyes than the yellow was, and the armour looks good and grimy.
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Aug 16, 2020 23:55
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Thanks!
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Aug 17, 2020 00:02
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loving imgur is auto rotating for some reason
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Aug 17, 2020 00:57
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    He’s done. Carcharodon Astra on ash waste base. I don’t consider this a successful paint workup, but as an experiment it went great. My goal was to use opposing color pairs to create “chromatic” greys—that is, tones that read as grey to conscious perception but carry a lot of color information that cancels itself out to the eye, so they read as rich and “real” rather than being as just a greyscale image. The light armor sections use a neutral grey basecoat, a desaturated green-blue mid highlight, and a slightly warm cream spot highlight; the dark armor sections use a neutral grey basecoat, a red-grey mid highlight (which is not apparent in the final model at all; if anything they look blue), and the same warm highlight, then everything is shaded from below with green-blue Coelia Greenshade and finally filtered and pinwashed with AK Interactive Streaking Grime, a very warm brown enamel wash. In final assessment, everything is too light and too shifted towards blue, while the brown of the wash/filter is too orange—I think the orange in the Streaking Grime being so overpowering is why the red midtone on the pauldrons reads as blue by comparison. But I’ve already got ideas on how to do the next one better. Darker greys for both the light and dark armor panels, shade from below with probably a mix of Coelia and Nuln instead of just Coelia, and going by this set of swatches, the Dark Brown wash is probably a better choice than Streaking Grime for the enamel. Also my first attempt doing freehand exile marks, which turned out okay but could use improvement, and my first attempt at using dry pigments to matte down a base and unify it with a figure’s legs. Not sure if the base works. I wanted a really hostile-looking ash waste, because I imagine the Carcharodons virus-bombing the planet before landing their assault—it seems like the sort of thing the atrocity sharks might do. But it doesn’t match the color of the Streaking Grime and just sort of looks weird. Maybe it’ll be better with my revised color scheme; need to watch some basing tutorials. Also, I wonder if it’s deliberate that if you shift the color scheme of the Carcharodons lighter and toward blue, you get pre-Heresy World Eaters. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 01:12
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Parts of that work extremely well, and I think your ideas for the next one will make for a fantastic look. I agree that darker greys will turn out better, the light grey reads too white to me. I think you'd have far better luck doing the freehand marks in black, if only because it's so hard to get a smooth white over the darker greys. You have good lines on most of them with solid brushwork, but the coverage isn't very even. If you want to stick with white, you need to do multiple layers and work up from an off white or grey first. The base is a bit bland to me, texture wise it is fantastic though. Get a little bit of color variation in there with some greys or dark browns, or maybe some rubble/broken machinery. You're spot on in that your grime color and the base color don't match, so where's that dirt coming from on the marine? I think you're 100% on the right track though and can't wait to see the next one. jesus WEP posted:I think the leather looks incredible on that model Grizzled Patriarch posted:I would also like to know how you did that leather! The leathers are done with the Scale 75 leather colors which are some of my favorites, they are a great set that all really sell the leather effect. It's a base Black Leather + Black, then essentially just layering up from there with Black Leather, Brown Leather, Orange Leather and Iroko. Paint on some lines for scratches and such, the ones on this model didn't take any time at all. On something like a Captain I'd start with some smaller scratches all over and glaze over them first, and then go back to the edge and major scratches. Kujo has a great video on a pretty similar process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkeFhBBPk6U&t=3s Cinara fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 01:31
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Goddamn that is a nice job on the red.
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Aug 17, 2020 02:10
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Cinara posted:Parts of that work extremely well, and I think your ideas for the next one will make for a fantastic look. I agree that darker greys will turn out better, the light grey reads too white to me. Would you believe those marks are in the same Vallejo Model Color Silvergrey I used for all the spot highlights? I did stipple them up to white in the areas where they were laying directly over a spot highlight, though. More thin layers and probably some sort of glaze medium to slow drying as I apply them is something I'll do next time; maybe break out the white acrylic ink as well. I was just too lazy to go pull those out of storage while I did this guy. Black marks aren't really in the cards. I want to do as rich as possible an example of this color scheme, which consistently has lighter exile marks over darker armor panels. Cinara posted:The base is a bit bland to me, texture wise it is fantastic though. Get a little bit of color variation in there with some greys or dark browns, or maybe some rubble/broken machinery. You're spot on in that your grime color and the base color don't match, so where's that dirt coming from on the marine? Thanks, man. I should probably mention how I did that base, since the texture turned out so well! Aside from the spot where the marine is standing, which is a bit of cork superglued down to the base, the majority of the slope there is Vallejo White Stone basing paste, which is pretty thick -- my bottle is pretty old, so it was like applying a particularly stiff putty. Then, because it was already so stiff and I was lazy and didn't want to wait for it to fully dry, I applied Citadel Agrellan Earth crackle medium in a thick layer over it. As the Agrellan Earth dried and cracked, the cracks spread down into the underlying layer of Vallejo White Stone, making for very deep, very well-defined crevices (and also ensuring the undersides of the crack plates created by the Agrellan Earth firmly adhered to the white stone, instead of peeling up like they tend to do on stiff plastic). For the areas directly around the cork, I applied a layer of Agrellan Badlands over the White Stone first, and then let some of the Agrellan Earth sit on top of it -- you can see the texture gradient under his raised foot. Then I applied a thin layer of watered-down PVA glue to ensure all the flakes weren't going to go anywhere and primed the whole thing black. Paint job on the texture may not be great, but the technique of applying Agrellan Earth over Vallejo White Stone for deeper crevices and more securely-fastened crack plates seems to be a keeper.
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Aug 17, 2020 02:37
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Hey, just wondering - does anyone have an easy way to create a rust effect for buildings? Since I've been spraying some MDF buildings, fuel tanks, a cargo ship, etc. for an abandoned port Kill Team map, and I have a giant silo (with the 'core' of the silo being a slightly weather-damaged Pringles can  Plus some MDF stairs, etc. surrounding it) which I'm thinking of adding a rust effect to some of the warped parts of the silo, to make it look like the contents is slowly corroding it over time. (Speaking of which, I'm not sure about what colour to make the silo. I'm thinking a plain white to emphasise/highlight the presence of the rust, but I'm not sure.)
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Aug 17, 2020 05:04
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Iron Crowned posted:loving imgur is auto rotating for some reason Depends on what you rotate it with. If you use a real photo editing program it should be fine, but a phone or Windows Photo Viewer may just modify the image orientation metadata so when it gets uploaded it's rotated wrong.
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Aug 17, 2020 05:14
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Major Isoor posted:Hey, just wondering - does anyone have an easy way to create a rust effect for buildings? Since I've been spraying some MDF buildings, fuel tanks, a cargo ship, etc. for an abandoned port Kill Team map, and I have a giant silo (with the 'core' of the silo being a slightly weather-damaged Pringles can Thick dark red craft paint stippled on, then orange stippled highlights. You might could use a ripoed up sponge instead of a stencil brush .
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Aug 17, 2020 06:16
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Sorry if this is a dumb question. I bought some scalecolour gold paints for sanguinary guard and some other mostly-gold models, and I’m going to be largely putting them through an airbrush. I know that scalecolour uses a gel-based medium so it’s a bit different to e.g. vallejo or citadel. Can I still use my regular vallejo airbrush thinner and flow improver mix with this stuff? Or will it react weirdly?
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Aug 17, 2020 11:42
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jesus WEP posted:Sorry if this is a dumb question. I bought some scalecolour gold paints for sanguinary guard and some other mostly-gold models, and I’m going to be largely putting them through an airbrush. I know that scalecolour uses a gel-based medium so it’s a bit different to e.g. vallejo or citadel.
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Aug 17, 2020 11:56
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Thanks!
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Aug 17, 2020 12:10
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Well I don't know why IMGUR is being all stupid and uploading stuff sideways, but I didn't work this hard not to share my work. So I finished up all my Infantry/Character HQs with my third Exalted Sorcerer and Ahriman.  Here is the Sorcerer.  And here is Ahriman. As I did with the Loincloths on my Scarab Occult and the robes on my other Exalted Sorcerers, I did contrast over metal, and love it. I think it worked really well on Ahriman's purple gloves. At least one picture did post right:  This represents everything I got for xmas from my wife, plus the Scarab occult I bought shortly after getting them. Took me 8 months to paint. Next I have a pallet cleanser I'm going to do, then paint up my daemon prince and vehicles. Werix fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 14:30
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You know you can just link images from your phone, right? Tap to get the select/select all/ prompt, the fourth option is ‘img’ which takes you to your photo library.
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Aug 17, 2020 14:43
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My latest big miniature is a Nolzur white dragon: The photo doesn't do him justice - I did 2-3 thin coats of Turbo Drok Mother Lode so he has this awesome icy sheen all over.
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Aug 17, 2020 14:47
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Torquemada posted:You know you can just link images from your phone, right? Tap to get the select/select all/ prompt, the fourth option is ‘img’ which takes you to your photo library. That depends entirely on the phone... If I go into Google Photos on my Pixel 3 the Share button simply gives me a link to a gallery, not a direct file that can be embedded here.
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Aug 17, 2020 15:33
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Torquemada posted:You know you can just link images from your phone, right? Tap to get the select/select all/ prompt, the fourth option is ‘img’ which takes you to your photo library. Yeah, something is going fucky with Imgur. I was able to make the post hidden, rotate the pics, and then repost the gallery. The pics in the gallery are still rotated, but when you click to view the full image they are right side up. I don't know man, I just paint them and take phone pics.
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Aug 17, 2020 15:55
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Werix posted:Yeah, something is going fucky with Imgur. I was able to make the post hidden, rotate the pics, and then repost the gallery. The pics in the gallery are still rotated, but when you click to view the full image they are right side up. I don't know man, I just paint them and take phone pics. I downloaded Lightroom earlier today so that I could fix it on a better image of my base: 
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Aug 17, 2020 16:06
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