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Do that with the parking brake engaged and I'll pay more attention.
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Aug 13, 2020 19:44
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i admire your commitment to your custom title
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Aug 13, 2020 19:47
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I mean, sure, kudos on designing a gearbox (like literally anybody with a copy of a Machinery's Handbook and access to modeling software can do) but I'm not seeing how it's supposed to be impressive. It's pulling a car that is sitting on a flat surface, in neutral. Somewhere out there is a video of somebody doing the same thing with a fishing reel and 8-lb test line as some kind of gimmick/skit. The motor they connected to it could probably do it without the gearbox. Again, they made a toy. Try putting that gearbox to work and see how long it lasts. and the custom title is from somebody getting upset in The Book Barn because I said the Dresden Files were hot garbage the moment the author decided to spend several books making rape vampires sympathetic characters instead of opting to make them "kill on sight" enemies, I'm not exactly going to give a poo poo about that Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Aug 13, 2020 |
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Aug 13, 2020 19:55
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Normally don't quote myself but goddamn, it's down to 180 for the OG, 190 for the red/black. I'm tempted to grab another one at that price. That is quite tempting.. Maybe I should get my first SLA machine.
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Aug 13, 2020 20:32
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Prusa eats it's own dogfood. They print all their own parts. So does Lulzbot. As commercial ventures, they're printing the parts for their printers. As for useful long term use of 3d printed parts in gearboxes... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ur2eBNMfZIA He's run his gearboxes for weeks? Also this entire youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c?GearDownForWhat?videos Plastic gearboxes are a thing. You just need to design for the plastic you're using. "Anyone with machinerys handbook"... exactly. Know your materials, design around them, have them last. PS: it's also worth noting, with servos, plastic ones last longer. They has less slop, and wear more slowly. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Aug 13, 2020 |
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Aug 13, 2020 20:46
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The Ender 3 is $165 from the Creality store right now. It's not the Pro or the 2 but that's still good. That plus a glass bed and a 32 bit board with silent steppers would be ~$220: "Use coupon code: CREALITY5NEW to get extra $5 off, which brings the price of ender3 down to $165!" https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/official-creality-ender-3-3d-printer source: https://slickdeals.net/f/14262920-creality3d-ender3-printer-for-only-165-with-free-shipping?src=pdw
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Aug 13, 2020 21:24
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Whew thanks for clearing that up
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Aug 13, 2020 21:26
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Call it a toy all you want, so far mine has been a money printer (it goes "vrrr vrrr vrrrrrrrrr").
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Aug 13, 2020 21:46
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I mean, sure, kudos on designing a gearbox (like literally anybody with a copy of a Machinery's Handbook and access to modeling software can do) but I'm not seeing how it's supposed to be impressive. I know I'm falling to your bait, but the project was actually a servo with over 100kg/cm torque, while being pretty responsive. The car was gimmicky, the rest of it wasn't.
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Aug 14, 2020 05:26
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I'm not arguing about it beyond not seeing it as anything but another toy.
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Aug 14, 2020 10:15
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Normally don't quote myself but goddamn, it's down to 180 for the OG, 190 for the red/black. I'm tempted to grab another one at that price. Another noob question - is there any major structural difference between the output of a resin printer and a filament one? Most of the things I'm interested in printing are stuff like mounts and enclosures for various bits of electronics - not massively load-bearing but I'd still like to know if they're particularly more brittle or likely to fail unpredictably. e: Just to clarify, the output of a standard 3D printer using cheap PLA versus the output of a resin printer using... whatever the standard cheap resin is? goddamnedtwisto fucked around with this message at 11:14 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 11:07
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Most of what I've seen hobbyist resin printers used for has been "pretty display pieces" that aren't used in a functional context, while FDM printers are usually used to make static bracketry/custom attachment pieces (and sometimes "pretty display pieces"). IIRC most of the basic resins are comparable in strength/etc. to PLA, but most of the pieces people print are fairly brittle because they're thin-shell/wall, mostly hollow objects (industrial resin printers, much like their industrial FDM counterparts, can produce much stronger parts than the hobbyist models). But again, it's a hobby. Resin printers are just capable of creating objects at a much higher visual resolution than FDM (the limit there being the resolution of the screen or the size of the laser beam used in the ones that use lasers instead of an LED/LCD).
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Aug 14, 2020 12:11
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I bought an ender 3 v2! So far very happy with its performance. I've been cranking out tons of functional crap as well as toys.  
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Aug 14, 2020 12:20
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Most of what I've seen hobbyist resin printers used for has been "pretty display pieces" that aren't used in a functional context, while FDM printers are usually used to make static bracketry/custom attachment pieces (and sometimes "pretty display pieces"). Yeah, the reason I ask is I know someone who desperately wants a resin printer for printing miniatures and I was thinking we could share the expense of one of those Elegoos or an Anycubic (and he can keep it at his house so he can deal with the smell and mess).
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Aug 14, 2020 12:30
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Regular resins are pretty brittle. The ABS-like ones I had futzed with were okay, but I wasn't doing any high load work. They had a funky soft touch texture which weirded me out a little. The Siraya Blu resin worked out pretty well for some parts that got action in the shop as jigs, but I ran into limitations on the printer not getting dimensions I needed. Could be that I'm bad at SLA prints. I've seen some really cool stuff done with ashless castable resin to make metal parts. For making minis and whatnot? It's the ideal use case.
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Aug 14, 2020 13:43
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Before I navigate the hellscape of local marketplaces, anybody near KCMO and want several spools of engineering plastic (HIPS, ABS, ASA, PC) in 3mm? Free... edit: related -- I am making and soon-to-be-selling high-temperature spools for your oven-baking plastics. They're made from Garolite and the dimensions of normal spools, but will handily withstand 250F in the oven for any plastic you want. The CF nylon print I posted above was after baking on one of these spools, so you may want to consider it if you're printing PC (or blends), any Nylon for sure, TPU, PC/PBT, PMMA, PEI, PSU, blah blah blah. Hoping to get $30 shipped each. All plastics do better when heated and dry, but most of them are at ~ 170F, so the eSUN eBox works without melting the spools down. I made them for Nylon & PEI, which bake at 215 & 250F respectively in my convection oven. insta fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Aug 14, 2020 |
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Aug 14, 2020 13:52
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K33DCNW I've heard before that resin printing carries alot more risk than what I currently print with PLA/PETG/TPU. What precautions do you take when working with resins? I know it comes with a light hood, but I also notice it comes with masks and gloves. Also, is it difficult working with the custom old files 3d files? I noticed the pro uses ctg. edit: bah, I'll PM you.
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Aug 14, 2020 19:32
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I made a fun light duty jig on my makerspace's printers: Just a quick little 90 degree jig. As designed, it'll hold up to 1/2" wood, any larger and you'd just use a square and clamps or take off the feet. There's plenty of room for optimization, but I'm really pleased with how it came out. Next project is going to be a pocket jig, maybe some box tongue joint jigs, too. Since I've been getting Real Life Angry ™️ with the negligent volunteer who runs the FDM machines, I just pulled the trigger on a pretty decked out Prusa Mini this morning. It should arrive in time for my birthday, hurray! Tip: threads on 3D modeling software are kinda funny. They generally assume that you're going to turn, tap, or bore threads, so if you're going to 3D print some default profiles, do the following: Make them chunky: these are probably the smallest that I would want to do (M10 x 1.5). In the slicer, scale your male DOWN to 98% or your female UP to 102% - whichever isn't critical. In my case, I scale my male threads down or else they wouldn't mate. Have fun!
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Aug 14, 2020 21:49
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Hi hello I'm new to 3d printing. My wonderful wife got me an Ender 5 for my birthday, since I'm already a 3d cg artist, and I've somehow made it this long (I'm 40!) without getting one for myself. I've printed some upgrade parts as well as tons of other toys and trinkets, but I've mostly been intimidated so far in printing things I'm designing myself; so here's my first thing I'm super proud of, a 1:6 scale Executive Armchair by Eero Saarinen: I split the seat cushion so I could create some receivers for the m2x16 that hold each leg on and sandwich the whole thing together:  That barely worked out because I'm no product designer, but with a toothpick and some blue-tack I managed to get the nuts to stay in their poorly-tolerance'd slots long enough to capture them with the bolts and get it all together. I'll do it differently next time, but it was surprisingly successful on the first swing. the model was adapted from one I made a few years back for this piece: 
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Aug 14, 2020 22:30
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Be proud, that's amazing.
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Aug 14, 2020 22:38
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That's pretty awesome dude. My 3d modeling skils are basically emailing people and paypaling them money to get something made, so trust me, when I say that's impressive and there's no way I could have done it, I mean it wholeheartedly. PM answered, as well 
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Aug 15, 2020 00:16
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My 3D modeling skills are using Microsoft 3D Builder for basic shapes and embossing things.
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Aug 15, 2020 01:08
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This is what I was making when I asked for fusion help. It's a branded painting hanger for my gear paintings since the old one was really ugly. Probably still need to sand it. Edit: VVVV Thanks! Chernabog fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 17:49
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That's extremely neat!
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Aug 15, 2020 17:55
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Handiklap posted:Hi hello I'm new to 3d printing. My wonderful wife got me an Ender 5 for my birthday, since I'm already a 3d cg artist, and I've somehow made it this long (I'm 40!) without getting one for myself. I've printed some upgrade parts as well as tons of other toys and trinkets, but I've mostly been intimidated so far in printing things I'm designing myself; so here's my first thing I'm super proud of, a 1:6 scale Executive Armchair by Eero Saarinen: Btw, the way things are often put together is using brass insert nuts.you heat them up and push them into a slightly undersized hole. (Phrasing!) Works great and you can get a million of them for a buck.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:17
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biracial bear for uncut posted:I'm offering to help them do exactly this, but nobody wants my old DaVinci printer. Powered this printer up to run it through it's calibration/heater checks and it is power cycling/rebooting every two minutes. Oh well, time to gut the electronics and see about using the frame for a Frankenstein build.
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Aug 15, 2020 19:55
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Question for you guys, while waiting for my Mini to arrive I ordered a spool of Prusament PLA from the Prusa website to have on hand for it (keeping it sealed until then). I live in South Florida and it's summer so that means 90+ degree days every day unless it's raining. When the box arrived, like most packages I receive, it was warm to the touch from sitting in the back of a delivery van. I'm pretty sure the temperatures inside those get pretty hot, could this ruin the fresh PLA? When researching this stuff I've seen people warning not to leave PLA prints inside hot cars but not sure if that applies to the raw material itself before its been through the printing process. Any experiences from people getting PLA shipped in tropical climates would be appreciated. e: video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KpCkMYkXpK0 Should have googled https://forum.prusaprinters.org/forum/prusaslicer/prusaslicer-trying-to-access-my-floppy-disk-a/ d0s fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 03:06
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I don't think that it would introduce enough heat to warp the filament, which has more thermal mass than most walls on a print, to warp so severely that the extruder can't cope with it. The humidity is something else, though. Sealed it's probably fine, but you'll want desiccant packs for storage. PLA sucks up moisture like crazy and it'll gently caress up your print, too.
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Aug 16, 2020 04:22
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something something my garolite spools
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Aug 16, 2020 04:43
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Just starting to print some glass fiber reinforced polypropylene filament on my ender 3 (with microswiss hot end), printing at 270 degrees onto an 80 degree bed with a layer of packing tape. I'm getting the PP filament to fuse to the packing tape and I'm using a 5mm brim but the warping forces are enough to start peeling the tape off the bed. The print still completes ok but it's not ideal. Any ideas? I'm thinking that the adhesive on the packing tape might be softening at that temperature, so one option is to reduce the bed temperature or have it go down after the first layer. Another option I can think of is a larger brim to try to distribute the peeling forces over a larger area.
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Aug 16, 2020 06:26
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Egads! My PLA is ruined! But what if.... I were to pass of some thingiverse pix as my own printing? Delightfully devilish!
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Aug 16, 2020 06:27
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:Egads! My PLA is ruined! Fanged, why is there smoke coming out of your Maker Select V2?
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Aug 16, 2020 07:32
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Blackhawk posted:Just starting to print some glass fiber reinforced polypropylene filament on my ender 3 (with microswiss hot end), printing at 270 degrees onto an 80 degree bed with a layer of packing tape. I'm getting the PP filament to fuse to the packing tape and I'm using a 5mm brim but the warping forces are enough to start peeling the tape off the bed. The print still completes ok but it's not ideal. Any ideas? I'm thinking that the adhesive on the packing tape might be softening at that temperature, so one option is to reduce the bed temperature or have it go down after the first layer. Another option I can think of is a larger brim to try to distribute the peeling forces over a larger area. How hot does the air get in your enclosure, I've run it up to 50 celsius to reduce warping* *this number is based on nothing, I can not be responsible if your printer melts or something
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Aug 16, 2020 07:36
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BMan posted:How hot does the air get in your enclosure, I've run it up to 50 celsius to reduce warping* I haven't measured it yet, it was definitely warm when I opened it up after the print but it would have been fairly cold at the start. The enclosure is not actively heated and it's winter here (air temp around 15C today), I could pre-heat the bed and leave the box to warm up for a while first I suppose, or use a hot air gun to pre-heat it a bit. Edit: Also my ender 3 has the flexible magnetic build plate it came with, I took the build plate off and stuck the tape onto the rubbery fridge magnet layer but I suppose that the tape might stick better to glass or aluminium, so clipping a glass or aluminium plate down to the print bed and putting tape on that might resist the peel a bit.
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Aug 16, 2020 07:51
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Insulation would also help, I can recommend lining your enclosure with foam panels.
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Aug 16, 2020 08:11
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Neat! Jacksonproducts.net has some great upgrades for the elegoo and anycubic resin printers. Dual z rails, and even an upcoming height extension for printing. Worth taking a peek if you have a SLA printer that he makes mods for.
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Aug 16, 2020 08:24
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Anyone know of a decent site to buy 200-500g PLA spools? I want to print some weird color stuff but I don’t want to waste money on a whole 1kg spoil of stuff I’ll never use again when I only need a few hundred grams.
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Aug 16, 2020 08:26
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eBay is a surprisingly good place for sample spools and small spools of stuff.
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Aug 16, 2020 10:18
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Deviant posted:Fanged, why is there smoke coming out of your Maker Select V2? It's a Maker Select V2, isn't it?  If you don't mod anything and are fine with the periodic printer-swap shipping times it's still a decent deal for the year that the warranty lasts.
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Aug 17, 2020 16:52
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Finally pulling the trigger on the Prusa Mini. Is it recommended to get the filament sensor and both sheets? Is there anything else I should buy with it?
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Aug 18, 2020 18:13
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