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okay I have found out that that video is pretty embarrassing with no shoes!!! sorry i didn't even think of it!!! :/ thanks for the help kimbo
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Aug 16, 2020 03:53
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Just found out that Kona has a Bicycle called "Jake the snake" so help me god if i get that bike and ride around with a mullet.
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Aug 16, 2020 05:11
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ElMaligno posted:Just found out that Kona has a Bicycle called "Jake the snake" so help me god if i get that bike and ride around with a mullet. I have one, it’s a good bike. 
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Aug 16, 2020 05:14
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e.pilot posted:I have one, it’s a good bike. Thats a pretty bike, its between that, a Jamis Renegade, or a Canyon Grail. Basically a Sub-2,000 Gravel/road/all-road bike, still doing lots of reading, researching and i haven't posted my Motorcycle on craiglist yet lol
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Aug 16, 2020 06:16
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My wife recently got a Journeyman and I wanted something to ride with her. I prefer MTB so after a few weeks of trying to track down a decent deal on a used hardtail with little luck I said gently caress it I'll get a gravel/road bike for now, the hardtail can wait till next season. Went to the LBS and they had a Norco Search XR A2 in stock that fit. I went home to think on it, at which point my wife basically shooed me back out of the house and told me to just loving buy it. Unloaded in the carport.  Inside of the fork is pretty neat.  Getting ready to go on the maiden voyage.  gently caress.  gently caress.  Guess it'll have to wait till tomorrow. I actually took it around the block real quick when I got it home, but the tires needed more air, so brought 'em up to 50psi, hopped on and made it about 3 feet before this happened, spraying sealant all over the side of the house and my car. Pretty bummed but still psyched about the new bike and can't wait to get out there.
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Aug 16, 2020 08:01
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For my own education, does sealant that dries on rotors need to be cleaned off, or can the pads do it?
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Aug 16, 2020 08:17
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Went on a beautiful ride 45km ride today, half of it on a tarmac bikepath following a some old traintracks and half going up gravel logging roads before i had a killer descent. Saw only a handful of cars, some sheep and horse    
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Aug 16, 2020 10:49
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Thank you friends for dad's surprise birthday bicycle gift suggestions! We went with a pair of Kabuto gloves; no idea if they're any good, but they seemed the best based on what's available. ...turns out, dad bought HIMSELF gloves for his bday but it still counts!!
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Aug 16, 2020 11:13
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@actionjackson I had a very similar problem, one foot bigger than the other and pain into numbness on the ball of my pinky toe on the bigger foot. One thing I'd mention right away is that if you normally wear insoles or need arch support in your regular shoes, it's likely you should have them in your cycling shoes. That alone may take care of it. Second, I'd caution against raising your saddle height a bunch. You don't want to have your leg go really straight at the bottom of your pedal stroke, for your joint's sake. More importantly, to make it work, you may start "reaching" with your toes at the bottom of your stroke to make up for the excessive distance, leading to foot pain. At least, that's how it was for me. Keeping your cleats back with make it harder for this to hurt you as badly. I'd recommend moving your saddle back to its original position (or near to it) and then trying just focusing on feeling like you're keeping your heel down while you pedal and seeing if that makes a difference. You won't actually be heel down through your stroke, but it'll keep you from reaching and may alleviate the numbness. If it does, you probably want to keep a lower saddle height and keep your cleats back on your shoes.
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Aug 16, 2020 13:52
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kimbo305 posted:For my own education, does sealant that dries on rotors need to be cleaned off, or can the pads do it? I'd clean anything that isn't rotor off rotors
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Aug 16, 2020 15:38
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:@actionjackson I had a very similar problem, one foot bigger than the other and pain into numbness on the ball of my pinky toe on the bigger foot. One thing I'd mention right away is that if you normally wear insoles or need arch support in your regular shoes, it's likely you should have them in your cycling shoes. That alone may take care of it. Second, I'd caution against raising your saddle height a bunch. You don't want to have your leg go really straight at the bottom of your pedal stroke, for your joint's sake. More importantly, to make it work, you may start "reaching" with your toes at the bottom of your stroke to make up for the excessive distance, leading to foot pain. At least, that's how it was for me. Keeping your cleats back with make it harder for this to hurt you as badly. thanks, I am at least going to get some insoles for now. I do typically wear them with my shoes.
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Aug 16, 2020 17:21
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I will start off by saying that static pictures of you at the "6 o clock" pedal position is not good enough for any type of bike fit more thorough than "throw your leg over it and see if its rideable in the parking lot" level of bike fit, for a variety of reasons. The 6 o clock position is not the most leg extension you will expect to see throughout the pedal stroke, instead it should be slightly forward of that, if you're drawing a straight line from the center of your saddle through the bottom bracket to the pedal spindle. After that a whole host of things come into play. Cleat position forward/backward mostly, but really what will come into play here is ankle mobility and how much flexion your ankle has throughout the pedal stroke. This is a dynamic range of motion that will never be captured by a static picture and should be done while pedaling on a trainer at the effort level and rpms you are trying to fit to, and averaging this angle over multiple pedal strokes. This can also be different from your left and right sides depending on your anatomy. Check out bikefitadvisor on youtube, this is a good place to start with some of your questions: youtube.com/watch?v=S7HE4ogNlbY This is a good app to get a better idea of what your knee and ankle are doing: https://www.motionysis.com/video/ In general, things I've done to mitigate some severe toe pain, usually my outer toes first. -Move cleats back (away from toes). If you're otherwise happy with your bike fit you should be moving your saddle forward the same amount that you move your cleats back in order to keep the same knee extension to keep it close. Technically depending on what your ankle is doing and how long your feet are, moving your cleats isn't quite 1:1 with saddle fore/aft. -Better quality insoles. I think alot of people that have toe problems also have high arches or need a higher volume insole. Part of the problem is that your feet are moving forward throughout the pedal stroke and over time and your toes are "digging in" to try to hold them in position. I'd bet if you took your insoles out you're seeing the most wear right at your toes. I owned insoles where I wore all the way through them at the big toe. -Varus wedges. Go on amazon and get a set of cleat wedges, there are apps that can take pictures of your feet while they dangle off the back off a chair when you're on your knees and can recommend how many shims to use. I have (2) 1deg shims under each of my cleats. -Get an actual bike fit. It sucks to wait until you're injured before you get a fit. I rode my bike *for years* without changing anything and all the sudden developed debilitating knee pain and we ended up making wholesale changes to my fit. We spent like 3 hours working on my cleat position, saddle position, and saddle model. We didn't even bother with my handle bars.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:14
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kimbo305 posted:For my own education, does sealant that dries on rotors need to be cleaned off, or can the pads do it? This is my first foray into tubeless but I’d suspect it should probably be cleaned off. I just wiped it down and hosed off my car.
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Aug 16, 2020 18:25
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Good Dog posted:I will start off by saying that static pictures of you at the "6 o clock" pedal position is not good enough for any type of bike fit more thorough than "throw your leg over it and see if its rideable in the parking lot" level of bike fit, for a variety of reasons. hey thanks for the posts. At my lbs's bike fits aren't currently available due to covid. I am going to get a pair of the bontrager insoles, probably the red ones as my arches aren't particularly high but I sent them an email. I looked at my current insoles and I'm not noticing any additional wear at the toes, but the shoes are relatively new and I don't ride a ton so I think that's probably the more likely explanation.
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Aug 16, 2020 19:18
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sooo is there any fat bike goons? im going to be investing in one soon because it will make my life less boring found a good deal on a trek farley 5 if its still for sale tomorrow (shop1$800. used $1400) same size and year looks new i found on market place ill check these other sites listed but if you think i can get better quality for around there lmk/brand. was just wandering around here to see if there was any info since im just a noob coming from a 7 year break off bmx
Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 19:24
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What do you want a fat bike for? They're probably worse than a more traditionally-tired bike at almost everything.
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Aug 16, 2020 19:41
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actionjackson posted:hey thanks for the posts. At my lbs's bike fits aren't currently available due to covid. I am going to get a pair of the bontrager insoles, probably the red ones as my arches aren't particularly high but I sent them an email. I will say that if your feet are significantly different in the arch area, the G8 2620 insole is pretty great, but expensive. It lets you change the height and position of the arch support on each foot, which was a big deal for me. The downside (beside cost) is that even the lowest arch insert is pretty high. If you get along fine with regular inserts in your non-bike shoes, they might be overkill.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:04
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Oldsrocket_27 posted:I will say that if your feet are significantly different in the arch area, the G8 2620 insole is pretty great, but expensive. It lets you change the height and position of the arch support on each foot, which was a big deal for me. The downside (beside cost) is that even the lowest arch insert is pretty high. If you get along fine with regular inserts in your non-bike shoes, they might be overkill. If it matters, insoles in regular shoes for me are just to add some extra thickness for comfort, I wasn't having any toe numbness.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:26
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Some of this fitting discussion has me wondering why crank arms aren't usually sized in proportion to riders' leg lengths. A tall rider will have a very different range of motion when pedaling on the same cranks that a short person is using, but cranks seem to vary only a little (165-180-ish mm, I think, and not usually chosen in proportion to frame size?). Is there some data that shows that having a proportional pedal stroke radius doesn't matter? Is it just down to manufacturing history?
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Aug 16, 2020 20:28
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a foolish pianist posted:Some of this fitting discussion has me wondering why crank arms aren't usually sized in proportion to riders' leg lengths. A tall rider will have a very different range of motion when pedaling on the same cranks that a short person is using, but cranks seem to vary only a little (165-180-ish mm, I think, and not usually chosen in proportion to frame size?). Is there some data that shows that having a proportional pedal stroke radius doesn't matter? Is it just down to manufacturing history? Fit is one factor, but torque is another - the difference in strength between people of different heights is small.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:38
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actionjackson posted:If it matters, insoles in regular shoes for me are just to add some extra thickness for comfort, I wasn't having any toe numbness. Ah, I have insoles all around because I have high arches and I run into issues with knee pain if I don't have good support. It's probably not nearly as big of a deal for you, and I don't know that it'll do much for you on the bike then. Can't hurt to try if the money isn't an issue though.
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Aug 16, 2020 20:54
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Thufir posted:What do you want a fat bike for? They're probably worse than a more traditionally-tired bike at almost everything. i hear they ride in the snow and that's cool i live in iowa so my winters suck.. not as much as some people but we usually get snow and i like the idea of being able to ride along a shore and pretty much having an all rounder the style is appealing to me too since i always liked dirt bikes/motorcycles i think it would maybe feel similar i don't know i've only practiced some on a motorcycle so far Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 21:39
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Get a fatbike. Get a set of 29er wheels built for it. End up with a super fun year round rigid MTB you can do basically everything with.
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Aug 16, 2020 22:07
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wrong thread bikes are cool
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Aug 16, 2020 22:44
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Turmoilx posted:i hear they ride in the snow and that's cool i live in iowa so my winters suck.. not as much as some people but we usually get snow and i like the idea of being able to ride along a shore and pretty much having an all rounder the style is appealing to me too since i always liked dirt bikes/motorcycles i think it would maybe feel similar i don't know i've only practiced some on a motorcycle so far I'm not sure exactly where you're located, but I think lots of places are grooming mtb trails in the winter now so it's good to know the ins and outs of what that means for you. Feel free to ask any questions at all if you aren't sure. I *think* $1400 is pretty decent for a new Farley 5, but I probably need to go back and check the specs. Edit: What year are you looking at? Got a link for the used one? Crumps Brother fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Aug 16, 2020 |
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Aug 16, 2020 22:53
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a foolish pianist posted:Some of this fitting discussion has me wondering why crank arms aren't usually sized in proportion to riders' leg lengths. A tall rider will have a very different range of motion when pedaling on the same cranks that a short person is using, but cranks seem to vary only a little (165-180-ish mm, I think, and not usually chosen in proportion to frame size?). Is there some data that shows that having a proportional pedal stroke radius doesn't matter? Is it just down to manufacturing history? I think it's just typical cost saving, catering to a narrower range of users to avoid overhead of making the extremes. Somewhere in here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3515357&userid=118079&perpage=40&pagenumber=82#post504812805 Kirby Palm linked to a study showing that riders are pretty adaptable in terms of crank arm vs power output, but I'm not sure that link is one of his two essays in that post. Anyways, I wonder if there's anatomical differences between a 6'11" person pedaling 200rpm vs a 4'11" person doing so. The foot speed is certainly higher, but a lot of muscle contraction rates might be the same.
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Aug 16, 2020 23:49
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it looks like a 2019 model i like the idea of putting some smooth tires on it too for bike path riding..smooth tires and being big i think that would feel good
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Aug 16, 2020 23:50
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So I waited in line 30 minutes at my LBS to buy my first road shoes and ended up with the Bontrager Velocis. However, I think my sales associate hosed up on the sizing. I measured 8.5/42 on the brannock device which is normal for me. I wear 8.5 in a few lasts of dress shoes and 9.0 in others along with running shoes. The size 42 cycling shoes felt fine to me - no problems on the length but the sales associate thought they were too tight laterally so he sized me up to 43 / US 10 and that's what I bought. I'm concerned here because the reason I bought the $200 shoe rather than the $100 shoe is that I don't want to be switching things out in 6 months. The more I read the more I'm convinced that the shoe I bought is simply too large. I had run for 90 minutes and done yard work before I got to the store - which I told the associate - but I'm not sure it swayed his opinion. So what do you guys think - should I wear the larger shoes for 30 days and if they don't fit I can return them to the manufacturer as part of their satisfaction warranty or should I take them straight back to the LBS and exchange them for a size that I think fits better. I don't know if they have 42.5's in stock, but they have the 42s at the risk of being too narrow (but not too short).
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Aug 17, 2020 00:59
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Continuing adventures of bichael videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Oe45KuEruo Tried to go catch a view of the sunset from the local pier with my camera pole further extended - set out a little too late and was overcast a bit anyway so didn't get quite the footage I wanted, but camera works okay, and sound actually works very well since I was going slower on Brompton so no issues with wind noise and I tested giving commentary, which comes out quite clear. Def going to use some shots from here as b-roll. Edit 2: you get to see my hit my camera with poo poo in this one as well haha Still, wasn't happy I missed getting a decent sunset and didn't want to waste the effort rigging the pole (takes time and too long to take up the elevator to apartment) so I drank a bunch of beers to wait for nightfall and recorded a night ride and talked poo poo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNjkZB33-2U Edit: as an aside man giving commentary is surprisingly hard LimburgLimbo fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 01:08
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Quite A Tool posted:My wife recently got a Journeyman and I wanted something to ride with her. I prefer MTB so after a few weeks of trying to track down a decent deal on a used hardtail with little luck I said gently caress it I'll get a gravel/road bike for now, the hardtail can wait till next season. Went to the LBS and they had a Norco Search XR A2 in stock that fit. I went home to think on it, at which point my wife basically shooed me back out of the house and told me to just loving buy it. Are those particular Schwalbe G-One Bite RG tires actually tubeless? I don’t see any TLE branding on the sidewall. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 01:09
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Andy Dufresne posted:So I waited in line 30 minutes at my LBS to buy my first road shoes and ended up with the Bontrager Velocis. However, I think my sales associate hosed up on the sizing. Shoes too long is bad. Shoes too narrow is bad. Personally I can't buy most brands of shoes, because inexplicably they don't make multiple widths. A few that I know do: Specialized, Lake, Sidi, Bont.
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Aug 17, 2020 02:01
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Today i went on a short six mile ride on the road bike and I liked it... Except it murdered my shoulders and wrists. i probably should relax a lil bit and not death grip the handlebar.
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Aug 17, 2020 02:40
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Turmoilx posted:sooo is there any fat bike goons? im going to be investing in one soon because it will make my life less boring found a good deal on a trek farley 5 if its still for sale tomorrow (shop1$800. used $1400) same size and year looks new i found on market place ill check these other sites listed but if you think i can get better quality for around there lmk/brand. was just wandering around here to see if there was any info since im just a noob coming from a 7 year break off bmx Fatbikes fill a niche if you don't care about speed and are looking for comfort or traction under all conditions. I originally got mine for winter riding but I find myself picking it for slow roll rides or if I want to pretend I have the guts to do stuff like ride off of walls because the tires are so forgiving. It's also become my goto bike for if I'm going into the bush since I can load it up and it can still handle any terrain I'm likely to come across. I actually just got back from a weekend trip and while I keep putting more stuff on it, it still keeps trucking. 
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Aug 17, 2020 02:41
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Also is there such a thing as an Endurance/Gravel Bike???
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Aug 17, 2020 02:52
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ElMaligno posted:Also is there such a thing as an Endurance/Gravel Bike??? Most gravel bikes already have reach/stack values that are more upright than endurance road bikes. There's also racier gravel bikes and ones that start approaching MTB geometry as well.
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Aug 17, 2020 02:58
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TobinHatesYou posted:Most gravel bikes already have reach/stack values that are more upright than endurance road bikes. There's also racier gravel bikes and ones that start approaching MTB geometry as well. Good because i dont think my lovely shoulders and slightly less bad back will appreciate the road bike.
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Aug 17, 2020 03:04
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ElMaligno posted:Today i went on a short six mile ride on the road bike and I liked it... Except it murdered my shoulders and wrists. Is this your first ride or first ride in a long time? Some of it may just be that your body needs adapting. Don’t know if that’s your plan but don’t necessarily go and immediately drop a ton on money on a new bike after a ride or two when it might just be needing to adapt.
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Aug 17, 2020 03:17
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ElMaligno posted:Good because i dont think my lovely shoulders and slightly less bad back will appreciate the road bike. You can still adjust what you have with a different stem.
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Aug 17, 2020 03:21
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LimburgLimbo posted:Is this your first ride or first ride in a long time? Some of it may just be that your body needs adapting. Don’t know if that’s your plan but don’t necessarily go and immediately drop a ton on money on a new bike after a ride or two when it might just be needing to adapt. Its like my third ride on that particular road bike and yeah i do think its that, but at the same time i have owned motorcycles with aggressive angles before and my shoulders hated it. I am not committing into getting a new bicycle until i sold off my motorcycle and get more info as to what bike fits me and my needs.
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Aug 17, 2020 03:42
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