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spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Bud Manstrong posted:

I rode flats in the spring and was really happy with the OneUp composites. Same price as the Chesters.

I am on the One Ups. so far so good.

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Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

Rode little scraggy today. I reset the sag and lowered the seat a bit more on my bike today.

I also need manlier legs or I need to replace my 34 front sprocket with a 32.

Ropes4u fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Aug 16, 2020

Nohearum
Nov 2, 2013

Ropes4u posted:

Rode little scraggy today. I reset the sag and lowered the seat a bit more on my bike today.

I also need manlier legs or I need to replace my 34 front sprocket with a 32.

How was the smoke up there?

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME
bike pic cross post

Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

Nohearum posted:

How was the smoke up there?

I didn’t think it was bad, but my wife dropped at 3-4 miles and went back to the car because her asthma reared it’s ugly head.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Nohearum posted:

How was the smoke up there?

It is all hit or miss right now. Check the AQI to see if you should go out. Riding 3 sisters on Friday was not bad on the lungs but hard to see. We just hiked 3 sisters and I don't think I would want to be out in it on a bike.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ropes4u posted:

I didn’t think it was bad, but my wife dropped at 3-4 miles and went back to the car because her asthma reared it’s ugly head.

They make collapsible spacers for MDIs, might be an idea to carry one with her for her rescue inhaler in case she runs into real trouble someday.

Ropes4u
May 2, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

They make collapsible spacers for MDIs, might be an idea to carry one with her for her rescue inhaler in case she runs into real trouble someday.

I didn’t know that existed, thank you.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
Have two rides on it now.

I miss my XT shifter and derailleur. I might have to go back to them. This NX chain slaps like a mother fucker. Also really wacky learning to ride on clipless. The tires are WTB riddlers from when I had it set up as a gravel bike, they sketch me out on chunder. Some how they have both more and less traction than I expected. Now that the bike has a 150mm fork on it, those light tires and 23mm carbon hoops feel really under gunned. I am super happy with the home cut vinyl logos though and cant wait to get the fork decals in.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
What’s causing the detension issue where the top half of the chain is dangling? Even if the clutch were weak, it should allow the chain to freewheel back over the cassette.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
I hadn’t even noticed that. Not sure what’s going on but it has not been back pedaling well, and I had backpedaled it to prop it on the rock. Think I’ll take the rear apart and see what’s causing the issue.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Could be a something like the back tension is too low, I've had issues with NX not shifting out of the big ring in the stand as there isn't enough tension to get the chain to drop down the ramps and into a smaller gear.

Honestly NX sucks.

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost
I figured out my chain slapping issue was that the clutch switch had come loose and just needed pushed back into place. IDK if that's something normal but it was new to me.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
Sram derailleurs don't have a switch to turn the clutch on or off, just a pin that holds the cage forward when you push it in.

I suppose the cage could be locked forward.

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
That would certainly add a lot of slack lol

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

jamal posted:

I suppose the cage could be locked forward.

:thunk:

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
So I did my first fork (fox 34 rhythm) lower service (bath oil and airspring clean and lube, left damper alone) last week and it all went pretty well I though. Rode the bike a few times, felt great.

I was loving around with it today and noticed the following:
- A few mm of sag from the weight of the bike
- Soft squeezing/squishing/squelching noise from the airspring side if I slowly compress/extend the fork, that is separate from the cycling an airspring noise we all know and love.


Is any of this normal or point to a mistake I made? I think it's new after the rebuild but don't remember if the bike did it factory fresh. I used a pretty small amount of slickoleum, just left a film on all the o-rings and sealheads instead of the goopy mess that was in there to start.

The thing rides great (maybe 5 hours on it since rebuild) and I didn't notice the problem until I had the bike upside down to replace front brake pads and realized that I could move the fork a few mm pretty easy, then I noticed the sound.

Thoughts?

Nocheez
Sep 5, 2000

Can you spare a little cheddar?
Nap Ghost
Did you soak the rings? If not, I'm pretty sure that's an important part of doing a fork service properly but I only took a class and did it myself once - not an expert.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

meowmeowmeowmeow posted:

So I did my first fork (fox 34 rhythm) lower service (bath oil and airspring clean and lube, left damper alone) last week and it all went pretty well I though. Rode the bike a few times, felt great.

I was loving around with it today and noticed the following:
- A few mm of sag from the weight of the bike
- Soft squeezing/squishing/squelching noise from the airspring side if I slowly compress/extend the fork, that is separate from the cycling an airspring noise we all know and love.


Is any of this normal or point to a mistake I made? I think it's new after the rebuild but don't remember if the bike did it factory fresh. I used a pretty small amount of slickoleum, just left a film on all the o-rings and sealheads instead of the goopy mess that was in there to start.

The thing rides great (maybe 5 hours on it since rebuild) and I didn't notice the problem until I had the bike upside down to replace front brake pads and realized that I could move the fork a few mm pretty easy, then I noticed the sound.

Thoughts?

Something that comes to mind - did you repressurize the shock without fully extending it first? Try making sure the shock is fully extended and recheck the pressure. There might be something to do with the negative air spring as well where it wants to be pumped up at full extension.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I've serviced my 34 Rhythm (only swapped out the wiper seals, foam rings and the lower oil but never touched the damper, etc.) a few times and don't recall having that issue or hearing weird noises. When I'm airing it back up I stop to compress it a few times to equalize the air chambers and then pump it up to where it was previously and check the sag. I'd try releasing pressure and and then doing that and see if anything changes.

E: since my bike was 20 feet away I just checked it for noise. It's totally silent when I'm putting weight on the bars and compressing the fork. Try airing it up again and equalizing the chambers via compressing it a few times as you're doing it. If that doesn't work, apologies for being full of poo poo. :v:

Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Aug 19, 2020

meowmeowmeowmeow
Jan 4, 2017
Yeah foam rings soaked, fork was pulled to full extension and compressed multiple times to equalize chambers, etc. I followed on of the guides on the internet and don't think I missed anything, but I need new crush washers if I want to open it back up so I probably won't do that.

I didn't start at full extension but have cycled it many times (has 5 hours of riding since rebuild), seems like any cycling would pass the equalization dimple and fix any negative chamber issue.

Honestly it's holding pressure and feels good enough I'll probably just ignore the issue unless something feels bad.

meowmeowmeowmeow fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Aug 19, 2020

jammyozzy
Dec 7, 2006

Is that a challenge?

jamal posted:

Sram derailleurs don't have a switch to turn the clutch on or off, just a pin that holds the cage forward when you push it in.

I suppose the cage could be locked forward.

That's exactly how mine looks when locked forward (coming from cars has broken me and makes me want to call it the 'service position' :wtf:). Would definitely explain the chain slap, the spring in my NX derailleur is stiff enough I feel like I'm going to lose a finger in the mech when I'm tinkering with it.

Sadi, try pushing the the very bottom of the derailleur forward and see if you can disengage the lock. If you hear a click gently release the cage again and it should swing right back and tension the chain properly.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
I’m amazed the lock pin didn’t pop open from riding it.

Sadi
Jan 18, 2005
SC - Where there are more rednecks than people
It was 100% not locked out. I think maybe it was trying to hop gears when I back pedaled it. It’s been find on the stand in the garage. The chain slap has been happening for a few rides. Wrapping the chain stay in an old tube made it so I don’t care that it slaps. If it drops a chain I’ll be more concerned.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Does it only slap when you’re coasting? Is it possible that the freewheel is catching somehow?

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Sadi posted:

It was 100% not locked out. I think maybe it was trying to hop gears when I back pedaled it. It’s been find on the stand in the garage. The chain slap has been happening for a few rides. Wrapping the chain stay in an old tube made it so I don’t care that it slaps. If it drops a chain I’ll be more concerned.

If the chain still looks like it did in that pic above, something is wrong with the derailleur or clutch. Lots of 12 speeds pop the chain off if you backpedal unless your chain line is just right. I'd be less concerned about that.

E: reading comprehension v:v:v. Guess you're saying it just did that when you set the bike up for the pic and not how it normally looks. Possible that the chain is too long? I think on hardtails it's 2-4 links extra (can't remember which is which between that and FS) when wrapped around the big ring and front chainring.

Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Aug 20, 2020

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Anyone have a good way to lock a thru axle mountain bike to a QR bike rack? I have older Thule Circuit roof racks then the adapter for thru axle bikes to work with it. you can just pull the axle and take the bike though. The vast majority of the time I am never away from the car in this situation. I have some kryptonite cables that I can use to "Lock" the rear wheel and frame to the rack. It works and is better than nothing (easily can be cut though) but is there something else I should look at when I need to leave the bikes for a bit? I know rocky mounts has a locking adapter from thru axle to QR rack but it doesn't seem like it actually works from reviews.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Couple tire questions I wouldn't mind getting thoughts on. I'm seeing some odd wear on the right knobs (left side in picture) on the inside edge on both front and rear. Any idea what causes this? Same tire, Bontrager XR4 2.4. Running 21/23 psi tubeless and around 195 lbs so I don't think I'm going crazy low. No rim strikes or anything like that or wheel issues due to it so far. It's like this the whole way around with wear and chunks worn away.


Next, how long do tires last generally? Probably depends on a million things but I've never had to replace any due to wear thus far so even a range would be helpful. I'm a little over 800 miles on these and I seem to be having more sketchy moments on trail (front and rear both losing grip at times) but not sure if that's a result of the dry summer and dusty blown out trails, tire wear, or dicking with cockpit and making stem shorter and riser bars (less weighting on the front so more washouts, etc.). Seems like plenty of rubber still there so I'm inclined to keep using them or swap the front to the rear and get a new front possibly.

Rear:


Front:

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Suburban Dad posted:

Couple tire questions I wouldn't mind getting thoughts on. I'm seeing some odd wear on the right knobs (left side in picture) on the inside edge on both front and rear. Any idea what causes this? Same tire, Bontrager XR4 2.4. Running 21/23 psi tubeless and around 195 lbs so I don't think I'm going crazy low. No rim strikes or anything like that or wheel issues due to it so far. It's like this the whole way around with wear and chunks worn away.


Next, how long do tires last generally? Probably depends on a million things but I've never had to replace any due to wear thus far so even a range would be helpful. I'm a little over 800 miles on these and I seem to be having more sketchy moments on trail (front and rear both losing grip at times) but not sure if that's a result of the dry summer and dusty blown out trails, tire wear, or dicking with cockpit and making stem shorter and riser bars (less weighting on the front so more washouts, etc.). Seems like plenty of rubber still there so I'm inclined to keep using them or swap the front to the rear and get a new front possibly.

Rear:


Front:


I think you just get the bike leaned over more when you turn right, more comfortable going that way maybe. Are you a left foot forward person?

VacaGrande
Dec 24, 2003
God! A red nugget! A fat egg under a dog!

spwrozek posted:

Anyone have a good way to lock a thru axle mountain bike to a QR bike rack? I have older Thule Circuit roof racks then the adapter for thru axle bikes to work with it. you can just pull the axle and take the bike though. The vast majority of the time I am never away from the car in this situation. I have some kryptonite cables that I can use to "Lock" the rear wheel and frame to the rack. It works and is better than nothing (easily can be cut though) but is there something else I should look at when I need to leave the bikes for a bit? I know rocky mounts has a locking adapter from thru axle to QR rack but it doesn't seem like it actually works from reviews.

I have a similar setup except Rockymounts roof racks. If I think I'm going to have to lock my thru-axle MTB on my rack I bring a u-lock and a cable, put the u-lock around the roof rail, and the cable through the frame and rear wheel. I don't have any illusion that this would stop a serious person but it lets me eat lunch or something nearby.

I also own the Rockymounts adapter and it's not great. My biggest issue is that it slips in the rack's QR clamp - the surfaces on the adapter are slick and no matter how much I lean on the clamp closing the rack it still slips back. The "locking" part of it just clamps down on the axle itself to hold the bike, but I don't really see why you couldn't just unscrew the thru-axle with enough force. I haven't tested this theory but I'm not extremely confident in its security. If I'm actually worried about it the bike goes in the car.

tl,dr: no :smith:

vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain

Suburban Dad posted:

Couple tire questions I wouldn't mind getting thoughts on. I'm seeing some odd wear on the right knobs (left side in picture) on the inside edge on both front and rear. Any idea what causes this? Same tire, Bontrager XR4 2.4. Running 21/23 psi tubeless and around 195 lbs so I don't think I'm going crazy low. No rim strikes or anything like that or wheel issues due to it so far. It's like this the whole way around with wear and chunks worn away.


Next, how long do tires last generally? Probably depends on a million things but I've never had to replace any due to wear thus far so even a range would be helpful. I'm a little over 800 miles on these and I seem to be having more sketchy moments on trail (front and rear both losing grip at times) but not sure if that's a result of the dry summer and dusty blown out trails, tire wear, or dicking with cockpit and making stem shorter and riser bars (less weighting on the front so more washouts, etc.). Seems like plenty of rubber still there so I'm inclined to keep using them or swap the front to the rear and get a new front possibly.

Rear:


Front:


There’s some wear on your center tread and the inside of your side knobs. Doesn’t look too bad though and not EOL yet. I’d keep riding for now but 800 miles is pretty good for a set and you could swap soon if you wanted. If you’re trying to save some cash, your front probably has more life than your rear and could be moved to the back while you buy a new front.

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

A few of the local shops have Kona Honzo in stock, but only in Medium. I'm 169cm and fall between Small and Medium but there is no way for me test both sizes. Should I just try the Medium and if it's fine go with it, or wait? I don't really know how sizing for MTBs is simmilar to road where I'd size down if in doubt since I prefer the more agile fit.

Is there a comparable bike to the Honzo I should try tracking down? The Co-op Cycles DRT 2.2 has some really nice parts but I don't know what I'd be compromising on.

paberu fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Aug 20, 2020

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




VelociBacon posted:

I think you just get the bike leaned over more when you turn right, more comfortable going that way maybe. Are you a left foot forward person?

I suck at left turns for whatever reason so that seems reasonable. I ride right foot forward though and am right handed. Are people typically better turning in one direction that's opposite of their forward foot or something?

Thanks for the feedback. I'll roll with them for a little longer I guess.

h3r0n
Dec 22, 2005

If anyone is using a Galaxy S8 and has noticed that their GPS is all out of whack, the AGPS reset in the Strava troubleshooting seems to have cleared it up for me.


Before:



After:

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

VacaGrande posted:

I have a similar setup except Rockymounts roof racks. If I think I'm going to have to lock my thru-axle MTB on my rack I bring a u-lock and a cable, put the u-lock around the roof rail, and the cable through the frame and rear wheel. I don't have any illusion that this would stop a serious person but it lets me eat lunch or something nearby.

I also own the Rockymounts adapter and it's not great. My biggest issue is that it slips in the rack's QR clamp - the surfaces on the adapter are slick and no matter how much I lean on the clamp closing the rack it still slips back. The "locking" part of it just clamps down on the axle itself to hold the bike, but I don't really see why you couldn't just unscrew the thru-axle with enough force. I haven't tested this theory but I'm not extremely confident in its security. If I'm actually worried about it the bike goes in the car.

tl,dr: no :smith:

You at least confirmed what I was thinking. I agree with all your thoughts.


Suburban Dad posted:

Couple tire questions I wouldn't mind getting thoughts on. I'm seeing some odd wear on the right knobs (left side in picture) on the inside edge on both front and rear. Any idea what causes this? Same tire, Bontrager XR4 2.4. Running 21/23 psi tubeless and around 195 lbs so I don't think I'm going crazy low. No rim strikes or anything like that or wheel issues due to it so far. It's like this the whole way around with wear and chunks worn away.


Next, how long do tires last generally? Probably depends on a million things but I've never had to replace any due to wear thus far so even a range would be helpful. I'm a little over 800 miles on these and I seem to be having more sketchy moments on trail (front and rear both losing grip at times) but not sure if that's a result of the dry summer and dusty blown out trails, tire wear, or dicking with cockpit and making stem shorter and riser bars (less weighting on the front so more washouts, etc.). Seems like plenty of rubber still there so I'm inclined to keep using them or swap the front to the rear and get a new front possibly.

Rear:


Front:


They seem fine to me. My rear looked just like that (only a bit worse) on the side knobs and more wear in general at about 1000 miles (same tires as you). I just put an aggressor on the rear and kept my XR4 on the front. So maybe change them or maybe ride out the year with them.

yoohoo
Nov 15, 2004
A little disrespect and rudeness can elevate a meaningless interaction to a battle of wills and add drama to an otherwise dull day

paberu posted:

A few of the local shops have Kona Honzo in stock, but only in Medium. I'm 169cm and fall between Small and Medium but there is no way for me test both sizes. Should I just try the Medium and if it's fine go with it, or wait? I don't really know how sizing for MTBs is simmilar to road where I'd size down if in doubt since I prefer the more agile fit.

Is there a comparable bike to the Honzo I should try tracking down? The Co-op Cycles DRT 2.2 has some really nice parts but I don't know what I'd be compromising on.

I’m 5’10 and ride a medium Honzo. I’ve got a longer than average torso for my height so probably could have sized up, but I’m pretty happy with the medium. But with how progressive geo is getting I’ll probably size up my next bike.

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
i enjoyed this place i could ride this everyday i didn't know what to expect had never been on these trails also new to trail biking/mountain bikes or whatever ya wanna call this so my tire pressure is currently way to high for these paths it has decent sized roots and some spaced brick corners in some places got a gauge on the way to help me with that though.

i can now see why a shock would be cool but i'll probably be on smoother stuff mostly ..yeah i really want one now but its alright, here's a few pictures from it.
..yeah i like this, i did quickly notice how unprepared and rad these trails are for a noob i kinda expected just mellow dirt paths, i had brought nothing with me i was thinking to myself at first this is going to suck if my tire pops

once i get more comfortable i wonder, would jumps destroy this rigid bike? ..i had a lot of speed coming out of the exit trail onto the parking lot and couldn't help myself to get some air i had rode bmx younger only rode at the skate park but eventually quit going, now its around 8 years later

scott county park, iowa - after watching some videos yeah this place is nothing crazy like those in first post but to a beginner (me) it was great i don't know if you all ride those crazy trails or what and im sitting over here excited about some little dirt paths :shrug: it's my speed x)

someone said my stock seat is awful too so let me know a recommendation, only had this for a few days.

Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Aug 21, 2020

Nyyen
Jun 26, 2005

MACHINE MEN
with MACHINE MINDS
and MACHINE HEARTS
Funny that, I just left the flowing dirt tracks of Iowa and have been trying out the trails in western Maryland. It has been a traumatic experience.



The one black diamond trail in Des Moines is barely worse than the access trail to a blue line out here. I don't know how I'm supposed to ride this stuff uphill.

Nyyen fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Aug 21, 2020

VacaGrande
Dec 24, 2003
God! A red nugget! A fat egg under a dog!

Nyyen posted:

Funny that, I just left the flowing dirt tracks of Iowa and have been trying out the trails in western Maryland. It has been a traumatic experience.



The one black diamond trail in Des Moines is barely worse than the access trail to a blue line out here. I don't know how I'm supposed to ride this stuff uphill.

Is that the newer stuff near Deep Creek Lake? Looks fun.

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Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
oh wow.. yeah id definitely NOT be able to do that at my probably 18 and 20 psi.. haha (paved paths was my plan and i didn't bother to lower for this place) until i get that gauge im worried about lowering it to much and having a weird leak again out of a spoke

i wouldn't even know where the path goes in that picture do you just follow the road of spikes?

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