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Done goofed and double posted.
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Aug 11, 2020 01:02
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I finally fixed the slow power window on my '95 NA - I will say that most of the youtube turorials and forum posts I found were absolute bullshit - they said just to clean the bushing and re-lube the bushing track. First I took apart the door and completely cleaned and re-greased the window bushing tracks - this did nearly nothing to speed it up. I ended up removing the entire window motor assembly - the issue seemed to be that the metal cable and cable rollers were completely gummed up with old lube/paste. I cleaned all of this out with WD-40 and then lubed up all of the cables with motor oil. After putting everything back together the window is easily 10X faster, not as good as a 'normal' car but I'll take it.
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Aug 17, 2020 21:41
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I buttoned the timing system on my wife's 01 NB2 back up, threw a new battery in, and it still won't start. New NTK crank angle sensor gapped with a feeler gauge to 1.05mm (spec is 0.5mm to 1.5mm). The symptoms are: Cranks No tach signal The only thing I can think of what I may have done wrong is that the trigger wheel is on backwards. I put the dimple dent toward the engine.
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Aug 17, 2020 22:52
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My bets are on backwards trigger wheel, cam off a tooth, dead/not plugged in cam sensor, coils reversed, or immobilizer gave up the ghost.
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Aug 17, 2020 23:07
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Yes this is more expensive than getting another motor but I don't care anymooooore.
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Aug 18, 2020 23:23
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Be a hero and do a 1.6L swap
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Aug 18, 2020 23:26
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What's left of the original engine beyond the block and head? 
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Aug 19, 2020 10:09
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Phone posted:My bets are on backwards trigger wheel, cam off a tooth, dead/not plugged in cam sensor, coils reversed, or immobilizer gave up the ghost. Cam sensor plugged in. Crank sensor plugged in. Took the pulley off and verified the trigger wheel (dish out, dimple in) and gapped it down to 0.7mm. Not sure how the coils could be reversed, 2-3 goes in the middle and you run the long wire from 4 to 1. Would the immobilizer keep it from getting a tach signal? The other possibility is that the crank sensor wiring is bad?
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Aug 19, 2020 18:02
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Phone posted:Be a hero and do a 1.6L swap A swap TO a 1.6L? Why?
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Aug 19, 2020 18:09
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BloodBag posted:A swap TO a 1.6L? Why? Maybe it won't grenade then?
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Aug 19, 2020 18:18
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Wibla posted:Maybe it won't grenade then? 1.8's grenade? This is news to me. Anecdotally the things are on the same level as the Jeep 4.0L for indestructibility.
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Aug 19, 2020 19:50
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BloodBag posted:A swap TO a 1.6L? Why? BloodBag posted:1.8's grenade? This is news to me. Anecdotally the things are on the same level as the Jeep 4.0L for indestructibility. um excuse me has had chronic issues with his BP05 for well over a year now
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Aug 19, 2020 20:44
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BloodBag posted:1.8's grenade? This is news to me. Anecdotally the things are on the same level as the Jeep 4.0L for indestructibility. His particular 1.8 is cursed
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Aug 19, 2020 21:15
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I have like 3 VVT heads in my attic from motors I scattered. Don't be me. In other news I think I'm going to put ebay rods into the one I have sitting on the floor in my garage and spin it to 8k. (I also have a damper, oil pump and valve springs)
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Aug 20, 2020 03:44
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FatCow posted:I have like 3 VVT heads in my attic from motors I scattered. Don't be me. Since I just went through this, remember Mazda's Miata Restoration Program sells rods new, just call a dealer.
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Aug 20, 2020 11:17
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The stock rods are trash though.
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Aug 20, 2020 13:27
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Seem to be working fine 
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Aug 20, 2020 13:42
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My mind read "used factory rods" when you said "eBay rods".
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Aug 20, 2020 13:48
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FatCow posted:The stock rods are trash though. They're fine for stock power If you want an overengineered, boostable motor (from stock), the BP is not it. Can I interest you in a stroked FE-DOHC with FE5A cams? 
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Aug 20, 2020 21:37
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Wibla posted:They're fine for stock power Make it fit: https://nasa-assets.s3.amazonaws.com/document/document/20304/ST5-6_Rules_2020--v3.2--2-11-20.pdf This thing still won't make much power. um excuse me posted:My mind read "used factory rods" when you said "eBay rods". Yeah, should have been clearer. I was phone postin'. There are pretty cheap "Forged" rods on ebay that are good enough if you're not trying to make actual power. I'm sure they are total garbage compared to a real brand. I haven't looked in a long while so I'm not even sure they are still kicking around. I can't imagine there is much volume these days.
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Aug 21, 2020 00:51
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This leaked since the day I bought the car. By the time it killed the engine, I could see an oil trail on the highway continuing out of sight. The sealing surface had so much carbon in it I'm surprised it held any oil at all. After an hour of cleaning. 
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Aug 23, 2020 19:26
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My oil heater looked the same when I got mine too.
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Aug 23, 2020 22:59
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Third. I discovered mine leaked when I attended a track day at MSR Cresson in Fort Worth. Every right hander caused the oil cooler to puke. Nice job on the cleanup.
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Aug 24, 2020 22:10
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Finally finished cleaning all the Permatex surfaces. Hosed out the oil pan after scrubbing it down to get all the metal out. Took the head off and pulled the pistons and removed the wrist pins.
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Aug 29, 2020 21:45
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"Is your Miata "Manley"?" 
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Aug 29, 2020 21:58
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Secretarily
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Aug 29, 2020 23:35
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spins up to 6800rpm just for safety
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Aug 29, 2020 23:44
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I need to replace the left rear wheel bearing on my 2002 NB, and managed to defeat the lower spindle bolt and get the spindle out of the car. My problem now is that the axle is stuck as gently caress to the hub, and so far the violence, chemistry, heat or force I have at my disposal can seemingly get them apart after 18 years. So I may have to just get new (used) parts for it, a spindle and an axle, to get back on the road. What parts are common between my car and other Miatas? I have a 2002 NBFL 1.8 Sport (the bigger brakes). How far out in models/years can I go and still find compatible parts? The used parts market here is pretty small, and if I can get a non-sport axle or an NA 1.8 spindle or whatever, it would help finding something at a reasonable price/condition.
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Sep 1, 2020 15:54
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Any axle/upright 99-05 will work in your car. If your car is an ABS car the upright must also be from an ABS car. If it isn't then ABS or non-ABS will work. This is all based on USDM, but I doubt this is different in Euroland. Before you give up on the axle bring it to a shop and see if they'll press it out. The Mazda CVs are worth some extra effort to try and save. Now if you've already hammered the end into a mushroom and the nut won't go back on then forget it. But a large (20T) press + some heat can get some of them separated when pounding on them at home doesn't do it. Your brakes became standard in 2003 as well.
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Sep 1, 2020 17:40
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Non-ABS NB's seem to be very rare here (Sweden), at least all the axles I've seen photos of have ABS rings. I have not yet given up hope of getting poo poo apart, just want to have a good idea of spare parts if it has to come to that. It is however very hard to tell the difference between "sport" and "non-sport" parts once they're off the vehicle and in one of the JY parts webshops, and in the case of imported cars (many, like mine, are imported from Germany) they may have an incorrect/absent model year. I will at least avoid the axles from the 1.6, as those might be a bit smaller. Not sure if it was ever sold in the US, but we had a lame 90hp 1.6 for both NA (post-1.8) and NB. I got a lead on at least a pair of axles locally, and if I can get them for a decent price I might buy them no matter what just because it's a useful spare part to have on the shelf. I'm going to give it another round of  MOAR HEAT tomorrow and apply a bigger hammer and see what happens. Not sure how big the "momentary force" of a full swing hammer thwack is, but it might well be in the same neighbourhood as the press. Also it should cause some flexing and poo poo to happen which might be an advantage. If that doesn't do it, I am taking it to a friendly neighbourhood shop.The end of the axle is just slightly mushroomed as it is, but the nut still fits over it. If I just happen to distort the outer non-threaded part a bit more I can just grind that down to make it fit.
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Sep 1, 2020 18:00
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Well, I defeated (sort of) the axle-hub spline: I heated it up so at least parts of it was glowing dark red, and gave it all I got with a fairly big hammer. It didn't seem like anything happened, but I saw that it had moved a couple millimeters, and then the rest was easily done in the press. The outer part of the axle is well and truly hosed, even if I could grind off the mushroomed bit to get a nut over it the threaded part is also deformed. There is also a bit of damage and deformation to the splines and it won't mate up nicely with the hub after a thorough cleaning (though I can't see any damage to the hub). So, new axle it is. It also feels like I've melted some of the grease in the outer CV joint so it would need some work there too. Now I'm instead stuck on getting the hub out of the bearing. A slide hammer doesn't work, my puller can't get a good grip on the upright in the right area, and I cannot get it placed in the press in the right direction. I could assemble something from bits of scrap metal to make it fit, but oh the effort. First though I will probably just heat things up again and retry the slide hammer. I can get the shaft of it through the hub for a good straight whack, and I'll turn a bushing so it seats a bit better. If that fails, I'll go look for a nearby shop with a larger press where the thing will fit. I was planning on changing out all the suspension bushings this winter, and I am not looking forward to what I assume will be the exact same thing on the other side.
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Sep 3, 2020 08:49
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Did you remove the circlip holding the bearing in place?
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Sep 3, 2020 14:01
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Any goon interested in a fully loaded 2.4 Limited 2012 Outback? It’s a peach, but now I have a truck. Lemme know. St Louis.
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Sep 3, 2020 18:46
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djfooboo posted:Any goon interested in a fully loaded 2.4 Limited 2012 Outback? It’s a peach, but now I have a truck. Try again a few threads up.
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Sep 3, 2020 18:49
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FatCow posted:Try again a few threads up. Lol, to be fair I have an Outback, a truck, my wife’s Sportage, AND a Miata. I’m that guy right now O.o
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Sep 3, 2020 18:57
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djfooboo posted:Lol, to be fair I have an Outback, a truck, my wife’s Sportage, AND a Miata. I’m that guy right now O.o I have a Crosstrek, Truck, GTO and a Miata. We're not too different.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:12
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Anyone know anything about this car? I made him a sight-unseen offer and I'm hoping he accepts.
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Sep 3, 2020 19:29
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Phone posted:Did you remove the circlip holding the bearing in place? Not yet. Unless I've terribly misunderstood how it fits together, I first need to press the hub (or whatever that part is called, that has the outside part of the splines and the flange with the wheel studs in it) out of the bearing, then I can remove the circlip behind it to get the bearing out of the upright.
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Sep 3, 2020 23:14
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You'll almost certainly need to press that piece out. I'm sure with a few hours and a healthy dislike for all of the joints in your dominant hand's arm you could eventually do it.
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Sep 4, 2020 01:37
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| # ? May 15, 2024 20:22 |
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ionn posted:Not yet. Unless I've terribly misunderstood how it fits together, I first need to press the hub (or whatever that part is called, that has the outside part of the splines and the flange with the wheel studs in it) out of the bearing, then I can remove the circlip behind it to get the bearing out of the upright. Wait, you removed the axle/hub/upright and then fought with it to get the axle out, and are now struggling to get the hub out of the upright? You might want to re-attach the upright to the control arms and use a hub puller + slide hammer. When I did mine, I used the hub puller +slide hammer on the hub with the axle still attached and out popped the hub (after much cursing and swearing, lots of bangs with the slide hammer, and a very sore arm). Free the axle and hub in one step. I saw you said that the hub puller + slide hammer didn't work. The hub puller should just attach to the hub itself, then the slide hammer to the puller. Are you setting it up correctly? My car is rusty as poo poo and it came apart eventually. I proceeded to try and get the bearings out without a press, but that was a no go. The machine shop I took it to afterwards shared that their 20T press didn't work so they threw it on the 100T press and apparently it made quite the noise when it popped.
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Sep 4, 2020 02:23
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