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EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Zurai posted:

Does anyone have some suggestions for how to spray-prime minis in Florida (ie, "humidity is always a problem") when you live in an apartment? I don't have a garage to use and can't prime inside, and priming outside results in high-humidity spraypaint nastiness.

Another FloridaMan here and I'll say that those Contrast Primers are the best spray primer I've ever used. No matter the weather/humidity/temperature, those things always spray on smooth as poo poo and don't fuzz. Downside is that they smell like cat pee.

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Vulpes Vulpes
Apr 28, 2013

"...for you, it is all over...!"
Finished up the Chosen Axes!

Zurai
Feb 13, 2012


Wait -- I haven't even voted in this game yet!

EdsTeioh posted:

Another FloridaMan here and I'll say that those Contrast Primers are the best spray primer I've ever used. No matter the weather/humidity/temperature, those things always spray on smooth as poo poo and don't fuzz. Downside is that they smell like cat pee.

I'll keep that in mind, but the Games Workshop markup and the lack of a black primer puts me off. It's still good to know that it's possible for a spray primer to work even when waterfalls spontaneously coalesce out of the air around you, though.

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
Crossposting from the 40k thread.

jadebullet posted:

I uaed my lunch break to finally get some pictures of my Altansar Eldar, as well as my Zaku inspired XV88 Broadside.










EdsTeioh
Oct 23, 2004

PRAY FOR DEATH


Zurai posted:

I'll keep that in mind, but the Games Workshop markup and the lack of a black primer puts me off. It's still good to know that it's possible for a spray primer to work even when waterfalls spontaneously coalesce out of the air around you, though.

Prime with Grey Seer then do a Nuln Oil wash. Gives you the benefit of priming black (pre shaded recesses) and the benefot of priming in lighter colors.

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
baby dwarfs doot doot doot





(copplestone 10mm dwarfs)

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Finished up the bases for my ork boyz and nobz!



So far this was the most fun part of the army. I used golden brand crackle paste to make the terrain, filed down the edges to be smooth all the way around, and painted with golden brand red oxide, Agrax earthshade, and dry brushed with more red oxide and orange.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I cracked and bought an indomitus box so I'm practicing some test schemes for marines, which I'm going to paint up as space wolves. Kind of a cute and quick proof of concept but that icy blue/green for all of the armor doesn't really say Space Wolf. Should probably do it for only a few parts to make it pop. So back to the drawing board

Major Isoor
Mar 23, 2011

DiHK posted:

Thick dark red craft paint stippled on, then orange stippled highlights. You might could use a ripoed up sponge instead of a stencil brush .

Oh, I didn't even know about stencil brushes until now, heh. Alright thanks - I'll check it out!

Legendary Ptarmigan
Sep 21, 2007

Need a light?
Out of interest, what is that blue (and possibly the primer under it)? Something in the Conteast range? I'm aiming for that kinda of glow on my necron's weapons and eyes when they arrive at the end of the week.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Legendary Ptarmigan posted:

Out of interest, what is that blue (and possibly the primer under it)? I'm aiming for that kinda of glow on my necron's weapons and eyes when they arrive at the end of the week.

Vallejo Blue Green, which has kinda bad opacity (Or I didn't shake the bottle enough) so it's painted in about 3 thin coats over black primer

Edit: also the white is p3 frostbite lazily drybrushed over the blue green.

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Aug 18, 2020

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Spanish Manlove posted:

Vallejo Blue Green, which has kinda bad opacity (Or I didn't shake the bottle enough) so it's painted in about 3 thin coats over black primer

Edit: also the white is p3 frostbite lazily drybrushed over the blue green.

I have the blue green and you definitely didn't shake it enough. Stuffs great

Moongrave
Jun 19, 2004

Finally Living Rent Free

Spanish Manlove posted:

I cracked and bought an indomitus box so I'm practicing some test schemes for marines, which I'm going to paint up as space wolves. Kind of a cute and quick proof of concept but that icy blue/green for all of the armor doesn't really say Space Wolf. Should probably do it for only a few parts to make it pop. So back to the drawing board



Frostmarines are cool

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

BARONS CYBER SKULL posted:

Frostmarines are cool

Seconded. gently caress the space furries, go with Frostmarines instead.

Isnak
Sep 15, 2006
Bonyour!
Is there a good option for a brush on white primer? Nothing I've ever tried gives a solid/even finish without starting to go on too thick (Liquitex Gesso/Vallejo Surface Primer and the little game colour bottles).

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Spanish Manlove posted:

I cracked and bought an indomitus box so I'm practicing some test schemes for marines, which I'm going to paint up as space wolves. Kind of a cute and quick proof of concept but that icy blue/green for all of the armor doesn't really say Space Wolf. Should probably do it for only a few parts to make it pop. So back to the drawing board



The Blue Wrathberries

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord
Things I learned I hate painting last night, after trying to paint a Stormcast Eternal:

- white base coats
- washes on white
- white highlights
- gold base coasts
- silver-on-gold highlights
- any color highlights on flowing robes

.

Like, it looks _okay_ from a distance/thumbnail, but I don't understand how people get crisp looking highlights on things like robe folds -- there's no "edge" there, so when I try to paint a highlight color on it, it just looks like I accidentally blobbed some paint there, and then the "shadow" areas with the wash just look muddy.

Sigh, just need to practice more and wash more youtubes I guess.

edit-- also now in the light of day (I was up at 3am painting because I couldn't sleep) I think my blue was way too thick

Count Thrashula fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Aug 18, 2020

Iron Crowned
May 6, 2003

by Hand Knit
I have a request:

One of the interns at work seems pretty interested in minis, so I want to suggest some sort of a basic set of paints and/or supplies, hopefully in a kit, ideally so he doesn't spend too much money if it turns out that he doesn't like it.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Iron Crowned posted:

I have a request:

One of the interns at work seems pretty interested in minis, so I want to suggest some sort of a basic set of paints and/or supplies, hopefully in a kit, ideally so he doesn't spend too much money if it turns out that he doesn't like it.

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Necrons-Paint-Set-EN-ES-2020

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Space-Marines-Paint-Set-EN-ES-2020

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Scast-Paint-Set-Eng-spa-port-latv-rom-2018

I know I've seen other Model & Paint sets from GW but they don't seem to be listed on their site anymore :thunk:

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Iron Crowned posted:

I have a request:

One of the interns at work seems pretty interested in minis, so I want to suggest some sort of a basic set of paints and/or supplies, hopefully in a kit, ideally so he doesn't spend too much money if it turns out that he doesn't like it.
There are 8-pot and 16-pot varieties of Vallejo Game Colour starter set and either would be excellent.

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:

Things I learned I hate painting last night, after trying to paint a Stormcast Eternal:

- white base coats
- washes on white
- white highlights
- gold base coasts
- silver-on-gold highlights
- any color highlights on flowing robes

.

Like, it looks _okay_ from a distance/thumbnail, but I don't understand how people get crisp looking highlights on things like robe folds -- there's no "edge" there, so when I try to paint a highlight color on it, it just looks like I accidentally blobbed some paint there, and then the "shadow" areas with the wash just look muddy.

Sigh, just need to practice more and wash more youtubes I guess.

edit-- also now in the light of day (I was up at 3am painting because I couldn't sleep) I think my blue was way too thick

I think it looks great! But you're right that highlights on cloth are weird. Something you can try to do for all highlights, but especially cloth, is make sure to thin the paint down a ton (maybe 4 parts water, 1 part paint). Also go with a smaller highlight step to turn it more into a gradient. Add the tiniest bit of highlight color to your base coat, and work that up in 3 to 4 highlights until only the most pronounced bit of the cloth is highlighted in an obviously brighter color. It goes faster than you'd think since thin paints dry fast.

Also if your wash is coming out muddy, try thinning it down a tiny bit and make sure to sop up the excess with a dry brush!

deadking
Apr 13, 2006

Hello? Charlemagne?!
I got back into painting minis after a long time away and I'm pleased with how this came out:





The yellow was unsurprisingly a pain in the rear end but I'm pretty happy with it. I'm gonna try to blend the highlights in better on the next one.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Yellow being a pain in the rear end should never be a surprise

Spiv
Oct 9, 2006

When life throws lemons at you, nuke the fucker!
What's the best course of action after stripping a model? I did one of my old wraithguard, rinsed it off after and let sit for a couple days.

When I primed it after, the paint just flakes off.

Did I just not rinse it enough?

I used simple green, fwiw.

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011

Spiv posted:

What's the best course of action after stripping a model? I did one of my old wraithguard, rinsed it off after and let sit for a couple days.

When I primed it after, the paint just flakes off.

Did I just not rinse it enough?

I used simple green, fwiw.

Sounds like it. Try dish soap and a soft bristled brush.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Maneck posted:

Sounds like it. Try dish soap and a soft bristled brush.

If this doesn't work give it a splash of rubbing alcohol. Simple Green likes to stick around no matter its purpose.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Iron Crowned posted:

I have a request:

One of the interns at work seems pretty interested in minis, so I want to suggest some sort of a basic set of paints and/or supplies, hopefully in a kit, ideally so he doesn't spend too much money if it turns out that he doesn't like it.

The Reaper one is good too.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Isnak posted:

Is there a good option for a brush on white primer? Nothing I've ever tried gives a solid/even finish without starting to go on too thick (Liquitex Gesso/Vallejo Surface Primer and the little game colour bottles).

I paint on white Badger Stynylrez for everything but it needs two coats.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS




More bats! Really pumped about getting these vampire counts together for ninth age!

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
my second sculpting lesson: capes!

starting with this 10mm copplestone dwarf standard bearer:


turning it into a wizard/priest type of fellow







it took probably five attempts to get to this. needs a bit more smoothing and cleaning but i think it will work out okay

Boywhiz88
Sep 11, 2005

floating 26" off da ground. BURR!
So, I’ve completed one hands-on project over the last few months. I’m thinking my next is to paint all my old WH40K, and odd WHFB, models. Circa 2004-2006.

The OP is a bit old, so I just wanted to check if there was any shift in paints. Who’s the go-to brand? I have an OK understanding of application and I saw a year or two ago that GW has nice tutorials for some of their techniques.

Also, any preference on brushes? Either sizes or brands?

Appreciate any advice, sorry if these questions have been asked recently but I figured this was the most straightforward option.

Boywhiz88 fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Aug 18, 2020

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Boywhiz88 posted:

So, I’ve completed one hands-on project over the last few months. I’m thinking my next is to paint all my WH40K, and odd WHFB, models.

The OP is a bit old, so I just wanted to check if there was any shift in paints. Who’s the go-to brand? I have an OK understanding of application and I saw a year or two ago that GW has nice tutorials for some of their techniques.

Also, any preference on brushes? Either sizes or brands?

Appreciate any advice, sorry if these questions have been asked recently but I figured this was the most straightforward option.

tbh there isnt a go-to brand, people like all different paints, and they are all generally fine (or at least each range has some great paints and some not so great). The default is Games Workshop, because they are the giants in the playground, but theres nothing wrong with Coat d'arms, vallejo, whatever. Some people dont particularly like Army Painter paints (though most people agree their washes are pretty great) but I've always found them fine if fussy (some of them need a ball bearing in the bottle and a good shake before use). They all have their strong suits and weaknesses, everyone likes what they like. GW tutorials work just as well with other brands as they do with their own paints, if they say screaming skull but you use coat d'arms bone, or vallejo ivory or whatever the result will be very similar.

The biggest shift in the last year or so has been GW contrast paints. They are a formulation of paint that they advertise as a basecoat and wash in one coat. Check out a couple of videos of them being used, they can be a handy tool to have (although they are a little more expensive and, its always worth mentioning, GW pots are The loving Worst).

Brushes, we all have our own preferences, much like paint. When you are starting out I'd recommend you get 2 brushes, a big one and a smaller one. Dont go expensive. Once you know what you are doing you can get yourself some expensive brushes, but to start out a couple of starter brushes is fine. An army painter basecoating brush and highlighting brush will do, or GWs equivalent. I'm currently doing most of my painting with a #1 and a #00 brush, but I find the sizing is not consistent between brands, as I have a #0 brush that is the same size as my #1 and another one that is the same size as my #00, so take that for what its worth. You might also want a medium sized soft brush to use for drybrushing. Someone will be along in a second to recommend the brands of more expensive higher quality brushes, which I'm told are good, but I think while you are learning cheap and cheerful is fine.

Isnak
Sep 15, 2006
Bonyour!

Cat Face Joe posted:

I paint on white Badger Stynylrez for everything but it needs two coats.

Thanks for the rec, two coats would be much better than anything else I've tried. I don't think I could paint without putting a preshade over white, now. My eyes are getting older and minis are getting more detailed.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man
Babbys first airbrush arrived today as did an Impulsor to test it with. Besides basing and a bit of weathering, for 4 hours I'm quite chuffed:



I haven't painted a tank since my old 2nd edition Rhino (I hate painting anything bigger than a horse), which ended up caked in enamels.

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
Nice! Airbrushing completely changed how I feel about painting vehicles.

The other huge thing is using oil washes to do your panel lining, it's so easy to get it to follow the recesses perfectly. It's also so easy to clean up any splotches or mistakes because oils take so long to dry that you can just put some thinner on a q-tip or spare brush and wipe away anything you don't like. Just make sure you throw down a layer of varnish first so you don't pull up your other layers of paint with the thinner.

jesus WEP
Oct 17, 2004


Cinara posted:

Nice! Airbrushing completely changed how I feel about painting vehicles.

The other huge thing is using oil washes to do your panel lining, it's so easy to get it to follow the recesses perfectly. It's also so easy to clean up any splotches or mistakes because oils take so long to dry that you can just put some thinner on a q-tip or spare brush and wipe away anything you don't like. Just make sure you throw down a layer of varnish first so you don't pull up your other layers of paint with the thinner.
I've heard that if you don't want to invest in oil washes, you can at least improve panel lining by doing a gloss varnish first, to encourage the wash into the recesses

Cinara
Jul 15, 2007
Yup! You want to do that with an oil wash also, but it works great for normal washes as well. Gloss Varnish is incredibly smooth, that's what gives it the reflection, so it makes a wash flow easily over it and settle into recesses.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
There's a big shift lately in people applying colour theory to miniature painting which of course makes me feel dumb for buying a whole whack of Vallejo paints instead of getting strongly pigmented paints and inks and learning to mix my own colours

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Eej posted:

There's a big shift lately in people applying colour theory to miniature painting which of course makes me feel dumb for buying a whole whack of Vallejo paints instead of getting strongly pigmented paints and inks and learning to mix my own colours

I think even if you learn color theory there's virtue to the pre-mixed hobby paints. Getting poo poo to match across a whole army ain't gonna happen if you're re-mixing your red every single time.

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Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
I can entirely see myself mixing the perfect shade and then promptly forgetting to make a big batch of it and bottling it so that is a fair point

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