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you just have to consider army painting and individual mini painting as totally different beasts
Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 02:22
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Nebalebadingdong posted:you just have to consider army painting an individual mini painting as totally different beasts this this this
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Aug 19, 2020 02:24
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Eej posted:I can entirely see myself mixing the perfect shade and then promptly forgetting to make a big batch of it and bottling it so that is a fair point Color consistency is exactly why I own like 150 tiny loving bottles of paints. This is my relax time, I don't want to be pissed off that this blue doesn't match that.
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Aug 19, 2020 05:00
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Eej posted:There's a big shift lately in people applying colour theory to miniature painting which of course makes me feel dumb for buying a whole whack of Vallejo paints instead of getting strongly pigmented paints and inks and learning to mix my own colours Sort of related in that it's also adapting classic painting techniques to miniature painting, I'm going to try out underpainting (or sketch style), as Dana Howl shows in her videos. I like the idea of getting the shading right before even touching colors, and the "rule of always done" approach. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 06:40 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 06:21
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I think I've mentioned them before but @craftworldstudios on IG has some beautiful brushstroke work (I don't know what to call it). Do ya'll just use model paints for painting textured bases? I just started on some and felt like I'm using a lot of paint per base and wondering if a cheaper craft store paint could work for the base color and then probably do the drybrushing/highlights and shades with model paints (GW/Army Painter).
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Aug 19, 2020 07:11
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KozmoNaut posted:Sort of related in that it's also adapting classic painting techniques to miniature painting, I'm going to try out underpainting (or sketch style), as Dana Howl shows in her videos. This post is literally the only result for a google search of "rule of always done"! Would you be able to elaborate? I'm yet to try underpainting but I'm intrigued.
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Aug 19, 2020 11:52
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Sanglorian posted:This post is literally the only result for a google search of "rule of always done"! Would you be able to elaborate? I'm yet to try underpainting but I'm intrigued. There may be an actual other term for it, Dana mentions it in her Hobby Basics 102 (underpainting without an airbrush) video. In art school you may be told to draw/sketch a pose in a set time, sometimes as little as 30 seconds or even less. The idea is to teach you to finish your sketching before you begin fleshing out shapes before you start to add details and so on. So at any time you stop, your work should look "done" and not significantly more finished in one area and neglected in others. I take it to mean that at each step of painting, you should be able to walk away from your model and consider it done. So you don't skip ahead in one area, you finish up your underpainting to a good level first, and you could walk away from the miniature then, say "it's a statue" and consider it done. Or your could continue with the base coats, walk away and say "it's tabletop standard" and so on. Make it look good at every step. Then you just decide how far you want to take it. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 13:04 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 13:00
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Woah holy poo poo that's bad advice. There's going to be plenty of stages that look like absolute crap, where all the colors are too bright before a wash or the contrast is too sharp before a blend. "It needs to look good at every step" is how it takes people a month to paint a rank and file figure E: Unless they mean "have all of one stage done before moving on," which is good advice, but for sanity's sake don't worry about how it looks. Save your judgment until you're done. moths fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 13:04
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jesus WEP posted:Yellow being a pain in the rear end should never be a surprise Weirdly, I have never really had any issues with painting yellow  Thanks, this was the kit I was thinking of, but I for some reason thought it was from Vallejo
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Aug 19, 2020 13:06
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tangy yet delightful posted:I think I've mentioned them before but @craftworldstudios on IG has some beautiful brushstroke work (I don't know what to call it). I do all my bases with craft paint, base and highlights. Then again I also use craft sand on most of my bases too. If I had a fancy base for an HQ or something I might paint it with model paints.
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Aug 19, 2020 13:06
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moths posted:Unless they mean "have all of one stage done before moving on," which is good advice, but for sanity's sake don't worry about how it looks. Save your judgment until you're done. That's what it means. It's certainly not "perfect at every stage", it's "finished at every stage to the level of that stage". The idea is that don't skip ahead of yourself. And I disagree with not worrying about how it looks at each stage, you just have to be realistic about how a model should look at each stage. A basecoated model is obviously not going to look like a model painted to 'Eavy Metal standards, but it can certainly look presentable for a basic basecoated model. E: Watch Dana's videos and see how she approaches it. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 13:17 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 13:12
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I've seen people get hung up on a few dumb details for weeks - it's definitely better to lower your standard to "the minimum I need to move on" (with an eye toward returning) than to dwell and get discouraged. E: I'll check them out, I think we're actually in agreement here but describing the situation differently.
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Aug 19, 2020 13:24
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I do something similar with my rank-and-file minis. I try to get all the base coats done (this step takes the longest) on ~five models at a time. Then I go back and refine them until I get to small details, where I focus on one model at a time. I don't play (yet), but at least I can see the progress of where things are going and how they'll look when they're all done. They look pretty terrible after the base coating stage imo, but they are technically tabletop ready. It's great if you want to have models that are at least painted and cohesive on a tabletop.
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Aug 19, 2020 14:44
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richyp posted:Babbys first airbrush arrived today as did an Impulsor to test it with. Besides basing and a bit of weathering, for 4 hours I'm quite chuffed: Painted some stripes and text then spent a couple hours this afternoon with Typhus corrosion, Stirland Mud and some Skeleton Horde.   
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Aug 19, 2020 14:47
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That’s made a huge difference, looks awesome
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Aug 19, 2020 14:50
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That tactical arrow on the door owns, and I love how your hazard stripes break up the red.
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Aug 19, 2020 14:54
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Man, I've got a Rhino and Vindicator waiting to be painted with my Thousand Sons, and I'm torn between making them look all beat up and weathered like that, or just clean and pristine. There is just something in my mind that makes me think dirty Thousand Sons vehicles just won't look right, like they'd always just be so clean.
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Aug 19, 2020 15:13
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Werix posted:Man, I've got a Rhino and Vindicator waiting to be painted with my Thousand Sons, and I'm torn between making them look all beat up and weathered like that, or just clean and pristine. There is just something in my mind that makes me think dirty Thousand Sons vehicles just won't look right, like they'd always just be so clean. Alternatively, they'd be in disrepair because everyone in the legion is either a deamon prince that doesn't give a gently caress about mortal things, a wizard-nerd too busy with their nose in the books to get their hands dirty to fix a tank, or a pile of sand in a suit.  Tho I suppose maybe they have spells to clean tanks like the harry potter wizards had spells to clean up after they poo poo all over the floor.
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Aug 19, 2020 15:44
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richyp posted:Painted some stripes and text then spent a couple hours this afternoon with Typhus corrosion, Stirland Mud and some Skeleton Horde. This already looked dope, but those details took it to the next level. This is the kind of stuff that makes me want to drop some cash on vehicles and try to make them look this good.
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Aug 19, 2020 15:47
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Two Beans posted:Alternatively, they'd be in disrepair because everyone in the legion is either a deamon prince that doesn't give a gently caress about mortal things, a wizard-nerd too busy with their nose in the books to get their hands dirty to fix a tank, or a pile of sand in a suit. I thought they'd have cultists who would jump at the chance to spit shine stuff with their tongues
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Aug 19, 2020 16:38
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Two Beans posted:Alternatively, they'd be in disrepair because everyone in the legion is either a deamon prince that doesn't give a gently caress about mortal things, a wizard-nerd too busy with their nose in the books to get their hands dirty to fix a tank, or a pile of sand in a suit. True. I imagine they summon a bunch of pink or blue horrors to clean, or as spanish manlove says cultists or now tzaangors. Speaking of, I absolutely love those repurposed Tzaangor/Arcanite shields on the combi-bolter. I might have to steal that idea.
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Aug 19, 2020 16:51
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Ork boy #2 done 
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Aug 19, 2020 17:11
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A good boy!
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Aug 19, 2020 18:24
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Verisimilidude posted:Ork boy #2 done nice checkers
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Aug 19, 2020 18:25
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Nebalebadingdong posted:nice checkers Thanks! Black ink makes it a lot easier since it goes on so smooth.
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Aug 19, 2020 18:32
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I got the remaining warriors and scarabs from the big box done! 
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Aug 19, 2020 19:52
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Nebalebadingdong posted:my second sculpting lesson: capes! That's looking really good. You've not exactly given yourself an easy intro starting in 10mm, but cloaks, beards and weapon swaps are usually straightforward. I think I enjoy converting models more than I enjoy painting them. If I ever get back into 40k I'm definitely playing orks. For now I content myself with glueing guns onto matchbox cars for Gaslands. Semi-relatedly, do you have any advice on painting large flat areas? I have a school bus to do, and I've never been very successful following Kevin Dallimore's technique.
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Aug 19, 2020 20:50
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R0ckfish posted:I got the remaining warriors and scarabs from the big box done! Beautiful looking models, I especially love the bases, what did you use? Badlands and a drybrush?
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Aug 19, 2020 21:12
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Looking for some feedback on the bone color. Does it work or should I just do everything bronze? 
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Aug 19, 2020 21:32
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The bone and the bronze are too close in color, you need to lighten the bone or darken the bronze. Or just do everything bronze like you said. You're not getting smooth coverage on either one also, I assume you're painting them over a silver basecoat? You're going to have to do multiple thin coats to get smooth coverage over a metal like that, for something like bone it will be easier to do a brown first, then work up a couple shades of bone color so you're not trying to go straight from silver->offwhite. For the bronze I'd repaint the entire section black first, then go back and do the bronze over that.
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Aug 19, 2020 21:37
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Mikey Purp posted:Looking for some feedback on the bone color. Does it work or should I just do everything bronze? The top of the shoulder pads doesn't read as bone, but the part underneath does, as does the part on his forehead! I would probably change the bronze to something a bit cooler to break it apart from the bone. Maybe Runelord Brass or another cool brown metal.
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Aug 19, 2020 21:44
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Cross posting from the 40k thread. Revelation 2-13 posted:Speaking of paint schemes, I made two quick test models for my CSM/Death guard/1kSons scheme. The idea being that I'm trying to make a unique warband colors I could use across all the chaos legions, so I don't have to but 3 decimators and 6 soulburner petards for my death guard, and my 1ksons, and my emperor's children and so on and so on.
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Aug 19, 2020 21:45
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I'm also not sure what color I should make the death guard tentacles, but I think maybe blood for the blood god technical might look cool with either version color.
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Wolfsbane posted:That's looking really good. You've not exactly given yourself an easy intro starting in 10mm, but cloaks, beards and weapon swaps are usually straightforward. Dallimore's technique is not well suited for vehicles and large things. When painting the Hero Quest furniture, I fully finish the large surfaces first before moving on to the details. I will add a little outline around each of the details so it gets that cell shaded look. Its time consuming e: More tiny dwarfs!  I reworked the base and the beards of the previous stand. The beards look better with some more saturated colors Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 21:49
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What does everyone use for a photo background? I've seen a lot of people using them, and I was thinking of getting one to make my minis pop.
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Aug 20, 2020 03:13
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Lasting Damage posted:What does everyone use for a photo background? I've seen a lot of people using them, and I was thinking of getting one to make my minis pop. I don't do anything special but I noticed that I get the most detail when I photo mini on the stove under the lamps with the white tiles as background. But then when I see them..and the imperfections I get disappointed 
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Aug 20, 2020 10:10
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I walked outside this morning, and for the first time in months it wasn't muggy, and quite pleasant I'm going on a priming spree tonight!
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Aug 20, 2020 12:46
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I finally finished a Thing:    Huge thanks to all the help and advice here and on Discord, especially while I was busy mangling NMM for the first time.
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Aug 20, 2020 12:51
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Meeple posted:I finally finished a Thing: That orange robe is insane!!
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Aug 20, 2020 12:59
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Misty Fog posted:Beautiful looking models, I especially love the bases, what did you use? Badlands and a drybrush? Unfortunately its a bit more involved! I used vallejo grey sand, basecoated with baneblade brown, washed dark oath flesh before a drybrush of rakarth flesh.
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Aug 20, 2020 13:09
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Iron Crowned posted:I walked outside this morning, and for the first time in months it wasn't muggy, and quite pleasant Hell yeah that Dave's Insanity Sauce
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Aug 20, 2020 15:00
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