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angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

IOwnCalculus posted:

For what it's worth I've only ever seen this on cars with compressors that were totally smoked. It is impressive how the load of just one seized accessory on the belt will stop a car from starting reliably.

My mom's Trailblazer would start and run with it, though. Made a fuckoff loud racket but she only had to drive to the dealership to trade it in, after all.

Yeah, the fact that it is locked with key off makes me think it's a clutch issue. Even if the compressor itself was bad, it should be freewheeling with no power.

Just to be sure, hey Jesus Toast you were checking the AC pulley by trying to spin the part the belt rides on right? Cause the "face" of it is actually connected to the compressor and doesn't turn until the clutch is engaged (normally).

As a sanity check, you can also crank the car up with the belt removed. Don't leave it running because the water pump won't be turning, but this should say definitively that you have an issue in the accessory drive.

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Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Yeah, check without the belt before you start spending money.

I had my ac compressor plug up on a road trip (don't use stop leak on anything) and the friction of trying to turn the rapidly seizing compressor welded the clutch together. As soon as I turned the car off (thankfully at my destination) everything locked up and the belt didn't have enough grip to run anything.

I would think a starter motor could handle the extra load of a properly working ac compressor so don't get your hopes up that it's only the clutch.

Jesus Toast
Sep 30, 2005

Took the clutch plate off and found this

Even had a bearing that somehow wedged itself into the back of the plate. Thanks so much for all the help. Definitely going to be hitting up the parts store tomorrow even if I have to walk there. $20-40 is much more doable than $200 right now.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Jesus Toast posted:

Took the clutch plate off and found this

Even had a bearing that somehow wedged itself into the back of the plate. Thanks so much for all the help. Definitely going to be hitting up the parts store tomorrow even if I have to walk there. $20-40 is much more doable than $200 right now.

You've got 7 balls there, you only technically need like 2 to make a bearing. It's fine.




:lol: that thing is DONE

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





angryrobots posted:

Yeah, the fact that it is locked with key off makes me think it's a clutch issue. Even if the compressor itself was bad, it should be freewheeling with no power.

Oh yeah, it's an "and" in my experience, not an "or".

Cat Hatter posted:

I would think a starter motor could handle the extra load of a properly working ac compressor so don't get your hopes up that it's only the clutch.

The '95 SL1 that got handed down to my youngest brother would beg to differ. Would just not start with the belt on. No belt, or a shorter one that bypassed the compressor, fine.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Oh yeah, it's an "and" in my experience, not an "or".


The '95 SL1 that got handed down to my youngest brother would beg to differ. Would just not start with the belt on. No belt, or a shorter one that bypassed the compressor, fine.

It's certainly plausible, it just seems to me like the admittedly substantial load of a working compressor would be less than what it takes for an idiot to start his car in gear and run into something.

If I still had my XJ I'd go run the AC clutch directly off the battery and see what happens when I try to start it. Unfortunately I haven't had my replacement WK long enough to even know where the compressor is, much less be comfortable screwing around for science.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

IOwnCalculus posted:

Oh yeah, it's an "and" in my experience, not an "or".

Fair point.

Jesus Toast, if you decide to replace the clutch bearing instead of bypassing it with a smaller belt, you can try the AC but if it's still inop, you need to unplug the electrical connector from the compressor so you don't engage it unintentionally. For example, using defrost mode.

Jesus Toast
Sep 30, 2005

You are all life savers. I'm not really a car person, but every time I haven't been able to figure out something on my own AI always pulls through. Speaking of pulling through, getting the pulley off so I'd have enough clearance was a pain, but it's off, the bearing balls are out, and I test drove it around the block. Here's what it looks like now https://imgur.com/a/2XmbxyS
No warning lights and it sounds even better than it did before we drove it across the country. I've been grounded for basically two weeks now and just want to burn through a tank of gas now. I'm going to pick up some electrical tape to put on the compressor connectors so they don't accumulate dust or anything. My non-goon fiance also says thanks.

giundy
Dec 10, 2005
Test installing the axle shafts back in my Dana 30, the short one slide in fairly easily. The long one was give me a bit of a tough time at the seal (~3" from seated). Some light tapping with a mallet got it moving in. I drove the shafts out with the bearing installed so I wouldn't have noticed if the seals were tight. There were no signs of leaking before hand, is this just a tight seal?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

giundy posted:

Test installing the axle shafts back in my Dana 30, the short one slide in fairly easily. The long one was give me a bit of a tough time at the seal (~3" from seated). Some light tapping with a mallet got it moving in. I drove the shafts out with the bearing installed so I wouldn't have noticed if the seals were tight. There were no signs of leaking before hand, is this just a tight seal?
My recollection is that it does drag at about that point normally - if it was light tapping, I think that's fine. I don't remember ever needed a mallet, but I do recall a bit of a shove / wiggle at that point.

Is it possible there's any contamination in there? Does it have oil in it? Those are probably my only potential worries.

Braincloud
Sep 28, 2004

I forgot...how BIG...
My XJ has a case of the front-end clunks, however it goes away once it’s driven a few hundred feet. Seems to be only the passenger side.

4” lift, I’ve replaced the track bar with a RE one with heims, sits on stock JK rims and BFG Mud T/As. 2” hub-centric wheel spacers (which have been checked for wear and torque). I have pushed, pulled, wiggled, kicked everything under the front end and cannot figure out why it’s clunking and why it goes away after a short distance. Only comes back after sitting a while.

U-joints are solid, some play in the front driveline but that seems to be from the backlash, plenty of clean fluid in the diff, bushings are all in good condition. Wheel bearings maybe? I get no horizontal movement on the wheel when jacked up and I push/pull on the top and no signs of fluid leaking.

DARPA
Apr 24, 2005
We know what happens to people who stay in the middle of the road. They get run over.
I'm trying to disconnect my O2 sensors on a 2007 Grand Cherokee WK, and I feel like the connections are impossible to reach. Is there some secret to accessing them? I feel like you need tiny hands with skinny arms to reach beyond the Cat, and I don't think my neighbors would appreciate me having one of their kids to climb under there.

edit: One clip disconnected, 3 to go.

DARPA fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Aug 22, 2020

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Jeep seems to love that. One of the O2 connectors on my TJ was on top of the bellhousing for no good reason,especially because they could have just shortened the O2 side of the harness.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

So how do you clean out the blower of a TJ?

Mine was parked under a tree for ten years apparently, when i turn on the fan I get pelted in the face with dirt and debris

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
Step one, take off the whole dash and remove the HVAC box

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Turn it on and walk away? Remove the blower fan under the glovebox and see what you can yank out from there?

Kirk Vikernes
Apr 26, 2004

Count Goatnackh

IOwnCalculus posted:

Turn it on and walk away? Remove the blower fan under the glovebox and see what you can yank out from there?

After the fan is removed, shut all vents but the farthest one from the blower motor and blow through it with a leaf blower and see what you can flush out.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

Turn it on and walk away? Remove the blower fan under the glovebox and see what you can yank out from there?

There's A LOT of poo poo in the fan I can hear it......I don't think leaving it on would get it all out tbh.

Sir Not Appearing posted:

After the fan is removed, shut all vents but the farthest one from the blower motor and blow through it with a leaf blower and see what you can flush out.

Didn't think of this, good idea. I could blow it through the cowl as well.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
Can you pull the blower motor without removing the whole assembly? Then you could reach in and pull the mess out. I can't remember if tj blowers come out easily or not.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Pretty sure you can pull the blower motor without loving with everything else, yeah. Should twist out, iirc. You are definitely going to want to pull the cowl and clean out well in there as well.

mashed
Jul 27, 2004

Depending on the year you can get to it through the engine compartment underneath the battery. You need to take the battery out and the computer and then you can get into the blower motor under / behind that. I did it that way on my 1999 tj.

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.
FCA is offering me $1k to take my 18 GC, put 100 miles on it on the dyno and give me an unlimited miles rental while they have it for 2-6 weeks. And they'll do any pending recalls too (I have an EGR reprogram appointment on Wednesday).

Any downside to this? Anyone else get these offers?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I wouldn't be surprised if that's them getting spot checked on diesel emissions since everyone seems to be a bit "creative" in following rules ever since dieselgate.

I'd do that deal.

Evil SpongeBob
Dec 1, 2005

Not the other one, couldn't stand the other one. Nope nope nope. Here, enjoy this bird.
Yeah, they said they'd return it washed and a full tank of fuel. Jokes on them, I haven't washed it during this heat wave since I made this trip.

mod sassinator
Dec 13, 2006
I came here to Kick Ass and Chew Bubblegum,
and I'm All out of Ass
Demand that the rental is a Trackhawk. :getin:

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

Braincloud posted:

My XJ has a case of the front-end clunks, however it goes away once it’s driven a few hundred feet. Seems to be only the passenger side.

4” lift, I’ve replaced the track bar with a RE one with heims, sits on stock JK rims and BFG Mud T/As. 2” hub-centric wheel spacers (which have been checked for wear and torque). I have pushed, pulled, wiggled, kicked everything under the front end and cannot figure out why it’s clunking and why it goes away after a short distance. Only comes back after sitting a while.

U-joints are solid, some play in the front driveline but that seems to be from the backlash, plenty of clean fluid in the diff, bushings are all in good condition. Wheel bearings maybe? I get no horizontal movement on the wheel when jacked up and I push/pull on the top and no signs of fluid leaking.

Check the trackbar mount to the axle and see if it is slightly oval. I have this problem with mine and it sometimes clunks.

I believe to fit it I need to drill out the hole to a circle and go to a larger bolt/nut/sleeve.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

th vwls hv scpd posted:

Check the trackbar mount to the axle and see if it is slightly oval. I have this problem with mine and it sometimes clunks.

I believe to fit it I need to drill out the hole to a circle and go to a larger bolt/nut/sleeve.

Or weld a thick washer to the face with the right sized hole :)

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

And, longer term, make sure that thing stays TIGHT.

Braincloud
Sep 28, 2004

I forgot...how BIG...
Definitely not the track bar mount - I drilled it out to install the new RE trackbar and larger mounting bolt. Was clunking before the upgrade and upgrading didn’t fix it.

It’s just weird since it goes away after driving a few hundred feet and doesn’t come back until it’s been sitting a while.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Coil spring retainers? edit: or spacers, if you have them?

I’m reaching, but I could see them being slightly misaligned or loose causing a clunk which would probably go away after a couple suspension cycles.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Sep 3, 2020

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
With retainers or spacers I think you'd need to remove the weight almost completely (ie: send it hard) to unseat anything enough to move it far enough to make a difference.

It might be the front driveline that you said has some play in it? The slip section clunking?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

Astonishing Wang posted:

With retainers or spacers I think you'd need to remove the weight almost completely (ie: send it hard) to unseat anything enough to move it far enough to make a difference.

It might be the front driveline that you said has some play in it? The slip section clunking?
I agree. I was envisioning, perhaps, backing into the parking space and braking abruptly?

But this is like, Car Talk level suspension of disbelief / wild rear end guess.

Astonishing Wang posted:

It might be the front driveline that you said has some play in it? The slip section clunking?
This is more likely - try greasing it? If it warmed up a little, grease flows better, clunking stops?

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Sep 3, 2020

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

I'm guessing you reverse out of a driveway and then drive away? My grandma's Lexus makes a very audible clunk when you brake in reverse - the brake pads sliding in the calipers. I wonder if they are the culprits for your rattle?

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
If you ever smell burning toast while off-road on a camping trip, get out and check, because jeeps don't usually smell like toast. Odds are that a squirrel has dragged a loaf of bread and old lime peels from your cook table at night and wedged them between the fuel rail and intake manifold right over the exhaust. You'll smell it for a while but you just passed a small fishing village and it's about breakfast time so you might keep going, thinking that they eat burnt toast. They definitely don't, because nobody likes burnt toast. When you stop to check and notice smoke coming out of the hood vents you probably won't think to take a picture, at least I didn't. A half-gallon of water later I felt pretty sure that the leftover wet crumbs wouldn't ignite, and I only had to worry about the muffler that had been ripped off banging around when the rear end articulated, and whatever that slapping sound was under my feet.

PadreScout
Mar 14, 2008
So I have a fun problem. 99 XJ - 4 litre, blah blah.



I lost my fan clutch bearing. Which is a discontinued part.

Previous to catastrophic failure I got one of those NSK 885586 bearings the guys on NAJAX speak so well of. Had intended to go find someone with a press to use and get that fixed. Wasn't punctual enough.


Now freaking nobody will work on it. Which is great and all but no water pump, no alternator. Anyone have experience with a short belt to bypass the mechanical fan? I'd risk driving it on the single electrical long enough to get it to a press if I had a water pump turning.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

PadreScout posted:

So I have a fun problem. 99 XJ - 4 litre, blah blah.



I lost my fan clutch bearing. Which is a discontinued part.

Previous to catastrophic failure I got one of those NSK 885586 bearings the guys on NAJAX speak so well of. Had intended to go find someone with a press to use and get that fixed. Wasn't punctual enough.


Now freaking nobody will work on it. Which is great and all but no water pump, no alternator. Anyone have experience with a short belt to bypass the mechanical fan? I'd risk driving it on the single electrical long enough to get it to a press if I had a water pump turning.

Does it need a press? like can you tap it in with a 2x4 and a hammer and feel okay about it?

PadreScout
Mar 14, 2008

Astonishing Wang posted:

Does it need a press? like can you tap it in with a 2x4 and a hammer and feel okay about it?

From what I've read, people have tried and it sometimes works. Evidently it's a very tight fit and trying to hammer it is a great way to screw up your bearing. Not impossible, but not a great idea. As it stands I limped the Jeep back to my place, so it's safely parked and can wait for a better solution which I'm kind of debating between finding a short belt, bypassing the mechanical fan entirely and just switching it to electric fans permanently - or finding someone willing to press it in.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

PadreScout posted:

From what I've read, people have tried and it sometimes works. Evidently it's a very tight fit and trying to hammer it is a great way to screw up your bearing. Not impossible, but not a great idea. As it stands I limped the Jeep back to my place, so it's safely parked and can wait for a better solution which I'm kind of debating between finding a short belt, bypassing the mechanical fan entirely and just switching it to electric fans permanently - or finding someone willing to press it in.

From what I've heard you don't want to bypass the mechanical fan on the XJ. Extra fans are great, but leave the mechanical there or your chances of overheating go up one million percent.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I should be surprised, but yet I am not, at the fact that apparently the XJ has the mechanical fan on some shaft other than just sticking it on the water pump.

Strictly speaking, if you're moving the entire time there's no need for a fan. Airflow through the radiator does the job on its own. Sitting still for more than a few seconds and you'll need it.

Vaguely related, I drove my TJ during some of this record-smashing heat we've had, and was sitting in a parking lot for about a minute while it was about 115 out. Just that little bit of sitting still was enough to basically lock the fan clutch solid. The extra load of the fan at 4000+ RPM was enough to make me have to shift even earlier than usual.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.
If you're near central Mass and can bring it to me, I have a 12 ton press. Any other goons near your area if not?

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