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It's a pretty straight forward DIY job. 1)Shut off the water using the valves below the faucet 2)Verify you've shut off the water 3)unscrew the hoses supplying water to the faucet 4)unscrew the nut on the underside of the counter holding the faucet on 5)lift and remove faucet from too of counter 6)do everything above in reverse with the new faucet There's probably a million YouTube videos that will walk you through it.
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Aug 11, 2020 19:43
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SpartanIvy posted:It's a pretty straight forward DIY job. Won't that leave me with two big holes in my counter where the current handle and sprayer are? I guess I could swap those out with a soap dispenser and a new (redundant) sprayer, though, if the holes are a standard diameter.
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Aug 11, 2020 19:56
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Ah, when I initially saw your picture I thought the handle was the sprayer and missed the sprayer entirely. The holes are usually in a standard spacing, so you can get a faucet with a cover plate like the one you pictured, and it will cover up the extra unused holes. That will move your faucet to the center hole though. If your counter has non-standard holes or you need your faucet on the far left, they sell individual caps you can use to fill the extra holes in. Finally, you could replace them with other things. Soap dispensers are handy. You could also install a small designated filtered-water spigot. I've also seen switches for garbage disposals. E: as you said, make sure the diameters match.
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Aug 11, 2020 20:05
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Academician Nomad posted:What's involved in replacing a kitchen faucet / sprayer built into the counter like this: I wouldn't choose that faucet for that layout. It's not going to reach properly into the larger sink. Is there a reason you're not choosing a single hole version (which they probably have in that exact same style)?
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Aug 11, 2020 21:32
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I don't know about that faucet in particular, but a lot that I saw were single hole, but came with an optional 3-hole adapter.
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Aug 11, 2020 21:35
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Motronic posted:I wouldn't choose that faucet for that layout. Wife's first choice. I'm sure she'd be amenable to choosing something else, though. Edit: Yep, it's 1 or 3 holes, can get rid of the base plate https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-E...R-DST/206323116 Academician Nomad fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Aug 11, 2020 |
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Aug 11, 2020 22:21
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Academician Nomad posted:What's involved in replacing a kitchen faucet / sprayer built into the counter like this: https://i.imgur.com/GmNhcuC.png What the heck is this weird nubby thing next to the faucet?? I have one, and it seems like its only purpose is to get dirty and look gross? I can't figure out how to remove it because I don't even know what it's called.
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Aug 11, 2020 23:13
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Bioshuffle posted:https://i.imgur.com/GmNhcuC.png In the photo it's the valve for the spout. In your situation it's probably a dishwasher air gap. Search for that to see pictures. It's purpose is that if your drain gets backed up it'll pour water out of that and into your sink instead of out the dishwasher and all over the floor.
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Aug 11, 2020 23:24
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I would recommend you go for commercial-style faucet. Can't beat the flexibility and functionality of it, plus, never have to worry about the pull out handle leaking into the cabinet. https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Glaci...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Aug 12, 2020 13:01
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Academician Nomad posted:Wife's first choice. I'm sure she'd be amenable to choosing something else, though. In that (single hole) it's quite easy. It's a couple of hoses and one clip with a nut to hold it onto the sink. You will of course be left with two holes in the countertop, and I'd suggest a soap dispenser and, if you have a garbage disposal, an air switch to activate it if you don't already have something convenient and air gapped for that. Most quality faucets will have matching options available for both of those things. I'm not really sure you'll get that with big box store tier stuff, but that looks generic enough that the other generic brushed stainless versions of those things should look fine with it. But I really would suggest going to a proper plumbing supply or similar to shop for a better quality faucet. Future you will thank yourself. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Aug 12, 2020 |
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Aug 12, 2020 17:38
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Is it wise to turn the water main off while on a week vacation (also drain the house pipes or leave the water in?) and if so should I turn off the electric water heater (at the breaker) as well? tia plumbing goons
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Aug 16, 2020 04:48
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SpartanIvy posted:In the photo it's the valve for the spout. In your situation it's probably a dishwasher air gap. Search for that to see pictures. That's exactly what it was! Thank you. Here's something that's interesting. The home I bought has a jacuzzi tub. I figured I could just switch out the jet fixtures and be done with it. The first one came out with some struggle. Not a big issue though. But the others? Not so much. It looks like they.. Glued? Or caulked the things shut. Why would they do that? I have no idea how any of this works and the home didn't come with a manual. Why would they try and glue the thing shut? Any ideas? https://imgur.com/a/jjljg80
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Aug 16, 2020 04:50
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Budget Dracula posted:Is it wise to turn the water main off while on a week vacation (also drain the house pipes or leave the water in?) and if so should I turn off the electric water heater (at the breaker) as well? tia plumbing goons If your landscaping will die don't do it. I've thought about it but never done it. Killing the laundry and water heater at the valve isn't your worst idea. Laundry hoses are a huge cause of home owners insurance claims. Don't drain your lines unless it's going to freeze out, in which case you should likely know what to do with it by now.
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Aug 16, 2020 05:56
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Budget Dracula posted:Is it wise to turn the water main off while on a week vacation (also drain the house pipes or leave the water in?) and if so should I turn off the electric water heater (at the breaker) as well? tia plumbing goons Yes, absolutely turn off the water, assuming you don't have anything that will run expecting water while you're gone (e.g. sprinklers.) Any time I'm away more than 24 hours, I shut it off. No need to turn the water heater off, but you can. Mine has a vacation mode that keeps the temp much lower.
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Aug 16, 2020 14:23
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B-Nasty posted:No need to turn the water heater off, but you can. Mine has a vacation mode that keeps the temp much lower. If the shutoff is turning your house plumbing into a closed system, you absolutely need to turn the water heater off. Even if you had an expansion tank I wouldn't trust it for that long of a period.
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Aug 16, 2020 15:52
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So I just finished replacing my kitchen sink and everything went as well as it could except for the fact that the stub out is metal and appears to be rusting from the inside out. Cleaned out what I could with a dry rag and some shop vac and it appeared that everything came up Milhouse, no leaks on the stuff I hosed with except I get see v sporadic dripping from the middle of that stub out. Guessing that needs to be replaced but... how the gently caress does one do that?
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Aug 17, 2020 04:56
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angryrobots posted:If the shutoff is turning your house plumbing into a closed system, you absolutely need to turn the water heater off. Even if you had an expansion tank I wouldn't trust it for that long of a period. Yeah, especially since it is the case it is electric so a simple breaker switch and not standing on one leg while reading pilot light directions.
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Aug 17, 2020 14:21
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C-Bangin' it 
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B-Nasty posted:No need to turn the water heater off, but you can. You clearly shouldn’t be giving advice in this thread.
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Aug 17, 2020 16:02
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angryrobots posted:If the shutoff is turning your house plumbing into a closed system, you absolutely need to turn the water heater off. Even if you had an expansion tank I wouldn't trust it for that long of a period. There's still water in the tank. My comment assumed you didn't try to drain the pipes. There will be no issues with the water in the tank for one week. edit: to clarify, most/many meters have backflow preventers anyway. The plumbing is always a closed system even if you have the main valve open.
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Aug 17, 2020 17:30
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 What color is this facuet? Brushed nickel? Bronze? I can't tell, and I need to get matching towel rings. The closest I seem to be able to get is this- but it doesn't look quite right. What about this one?  Chrome? Brushed nickel? Satin nickel? I can't tell, and they all look the same. I didn't realize that you should get matching ones and threw out the old pieces like an idiot. I'm trying to buy them online as I'm sure they have a better selection than Home Depot would.
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Aug 17, 2020 18:05
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B-Nasty posted:edit: to clarify, most/many meters have backflow preventers anyway. The plumbing is always a closed system even if you have the main valve open. But what if the water heater is a PO special with no expansion tank, that's been ok so far because it's an older meter with no check valve? Or any number of scenarios you can imagine when we're given minimal info and not looking at it in person. Turning off the water heater hurts nothing.
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Aug 17, 2020 21:25
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angryrobots posted:Yeah it will probably be ok. If your failure scenario is heating runaway, there's always the T&P valve. If it was common that closing the main and thus closing the system caused issues, we'd see water heaters exploding left and right where backflow valves are common if the homeowner didn't open the hot tap all day. The concern with it sitting off is that it's going to pass through and/or sit at the perfect Legionella temp. If you turn it back on and don't use any hot water until it hits a safe temp again, fine.
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Aug 18, 2020 00:00
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Does the garbage disposal need to be powered on for the air gap to drain properly? I am such a loving genius. I was so preoccupied with the drain pipes I had the airgap cover off, and I'm sitting there wondering why there was water everywhere. Actually, I am such a loving genius I didn't realize the cover doesn't serve to keep the water in. Had to replace the gasket, and clear the drain line. I have a working dishwasher again! Bioshuffle fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 01:11
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So, we had a toilet repair performed recently. Cracked plastic flange. The plumber came out and put some kind of metal ring on top of the plastic flange (so the bolts could do their job), new wax seal, and re-seated the toilet. This was his second time re-seating that toilet in the past month (it was wobbly when we moved in and he re-seated it, but, the flange was not cracked at that first visit). A couple days after that most recent second repair, my wife noticed some small amount of water damage in the ceiling that is below the toilet. But we don't look up there frequently; it's unclear if the damage occurred before or after the latest repair. It's dry right now. I'm not sure what to do here. Have the same plumber come out who may have messed up the repair in the first place and evaluate his own work (he'd charge a fee to do this, I imagine)? Flush the toilet a few times to see if more water damage occurs? Get an entirely different plumber out to pull the toilet and evaluate the repair? We're leaning toward that third option but all options seem to suck. What to do?
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Aug 18, 2020 14:32
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I bought a 50s construction house that has this kitchen sink. Closed yesterday and moved in partially to reduce my commute.  It started leaking out the faucet after one day of use. The basin style makes me think replacing the faucet isn't going to be a bing bang remove and replace job. My tools are still 2.5 hours away but I can get my plumbing kit this weekend. My question is, for a faucet that old/that style, are the internals going to be similar to what I had in my last house (70s construction). Are parts going to be sourceable?
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Aug 18, 2020 15:11
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That's a high end Crane sink from back in the day and you should be able to still find parts for it. Is it leaking out the base of the faucet or is it just dripping because a valve don't close all the way? This looks to be the model: https://retrorenovation.com/wp-cont...1-1953039-2.jpg E: if you decide to get rid of it, give it to me. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 15:22
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SpartanIvy posted:That's a high end Crane sink from back in the day and you should be able to still find parts for it. Is it leaking out the base of the faucet or is it just dripping because a valve don't close all the way? Dripping because a valve doesn't close all the way. Sorry to say, but my wife looooooves the sink so I better fix it. Thanks for identifying it!
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Aug 18, 2020 15:33
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Many Crane sinks have a lots of parts commonality between others, so try and figure out which sinks share parts with yours and search for all those as well to cast a wider net for parts.
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Aug 18, 2020 16:00
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pmchem posted:So, we had a toilet repair performed recently. Cracked plastic flange. The plumber came out and put some kind of metal ring on top of the plastic flange (so the bolts could do their job), new wax seal, and re-seated the toilet. This was his second time re-seating that toilet in the past month (it was wobbly when we moved in and he re-seated it, but, the flange was not cracked at that first visit). update on this for posterity, and -- what do I do next? I bought a moisture meter. I took measurements before a flush along the water damaged area. generally 0%, but, one position did have readings of 6%. I went upstairs and flushed. measured immediately afterwards, no change in areas previously measured, but I also went "off mark" -- just away from the visible damage area, that I did not measure pre-flush -- and got a reading of 15%. I waited ~20 minutes, re-measured, no changes. That reading of 15%, though. The plumber came last Friday. So the area has had 4 nights to dry out since his latest repair. Is 15% a reasonable reading for something with no "new" water since that time?
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Aug 18, 2020 18:45
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tactlessbastard posted:I bought a 50s construction house that has this kitchen sink. Closed yesterday and moved in partially to reduce my commute. And if your nerve goes... SpartanIvy posted:E: if you decide to get rid of it, give it to me. gently caress him, I want it. pmchem posted:update on this for posterity, and -- what do I do next? Yes. Not much air moving up there between your joists, so it can sit. In the event it's still leaking: It may also be running along to a drywall joint somewhere, so don't be surprised to find a perfectly straight brown line on the ceiling in the near future. Give it a week. The ceiling's already damaged; a little more won't make the repair any more difficult. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 03:17
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PainterofCrap posted:Yes. Not much air moving up there between your joists, so it can sit. yes! that’s how we noticed the damage in the first place, a perfectly straight, brown line. that’s all that is visible. i flushed 4 more times in a row tonight and measured various times/positions afterwards. no change as of yet (within margin of error). pmchem fucked around with this message at 03:33 on Aug 19, 2020 |
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Aug 19, 2020 03:31
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That looks like a brushed or satin brass or bronze to me, nickel would be grey and that has more gold in it. Bioshuffle posted:What about this one? Definitely not chrome. It's either satin or brushed nickel, but good news, the name varies based on who made it! And even two brands with satin nickel finishes probably won't match!
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Aug 19, 2020 04:22
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If you bought that $30 moisture meter from home Depot, 15% is basically its upper range. And yes, you absolutely have water coming from upstairs. Take a screwdriver and poke a couple of holes and drywall, so it has a chance to dry overnight. If there is no air circulating, drywall can stay wet for days.
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Aug 20, 2020 13:42
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Nitrox posted:If you bought that $30 moisture meter from home Depot, 15% is basically its upper range. And yes, you absolutely have water coming from upstairs. Take a screwdriver and poke a couple of holes and drywall, so it has a chance to dry overnight. If there is no air circulating, drywall can stay wet for days. well, it's a $45 meter, but yeah, the pinless General Tools brand from home depot. on wall and masonry settings it can run up to 100%. on hardwood/softwood settings it has lower percent caps. I've been using the wall setting. as a general update, I flushed that toilet 5 times in a row yesterday and saw a little water leaking out around one side of its base, so, sigh, it's gotta be fixed. but both immediately and much later, the ceiling readings below were unchanged. is there a particular advantage to poking holes in it to dry instead of just repairing the cause of the leak and giving the drywall (ceiling) time?
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Aug 20, 2020 14:56
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pmchem posted:well, it's a $45 meter, but yeah, the pinless General Tools brand from home depot. on wall and masonry settings it can run up to 100%. on hardwood/softwood settings it has lower percent caps. I've been using the wall setting. I'd just cut the drywall out. If it's been wet, it'll start to grow mold. Patching it shouldn't be that hard.
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Aug 20, 2020 17:31
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pmchem posted:is there a particular advantage to poking holes in it to dry instead of just repairing the cause of the leak and giving the drywall (ceiling) time? But. If you don't intend to remove the drywall, your best bet is to stop the source of water, and leave the mold be. It'll stop growing in the absence of water, and sitting in a wall won't damage anything, won't be significantly present in the air you're breathing, etc. If you think it's been less than 72 hours, then yes, punch some holes and get some airflow, a box fan, etc. Time is your enemy here. Mold likes damp, mold likes stagnant air. Your paint is acting as a moisture barrier too, so drying from the painted side of the drywall is much tougher than having some holes in it and drying from the inside out.
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Aug 21, 2020 04:10
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About to take an adventure into installing a Set Rite Kit to raise my flange above floor level and reinstall my toilet. Wish me luck!
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Aug 22, 2020 01:49
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Academician Nomad posted:About to take an adventure into installing a Set Rite Kit to raise my flange above floor level and reinstall my toilet. Wish me luck! Goonspeed with your poo poo throne repair. I hope it will handle the mightiest of dumps.
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Aug 22, 2020 02:26
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wesleywillis posted:Goonspeed with your poo poo throne repair. I hope it will handle the mightiest of dumps. Repair successful (?) However, replacing kitchen faucet was a complete failure. Stupid old bolt locking the faucet on is rusted shut, and I can't even figure out what I'm supposed to do with the underside of the (separate) handle to get it to come out.   So short of buying an angle grinder to destroy the faucet entirely, I guess I'm paying a plumber to do it. Ugh
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Aug 22, 2020 21:19
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Yes to second picture. There is a long 10 mm nut in the middle you need to undo. Then the entire faucet lifts up. Obviously remove hot and cold supply hoses at the valve downstream or at the first nut, see picture one. Edit: looks like you also have a nut on each side. Once you remove supply lines, you can take a long flat screwdriver and slowly hammer them loose. Feel free to bang on that faucet from the top, if you don't plan on saving it. The vibrations will probably break the rust loose
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Aug 23, 2020 01:58
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