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Final Blog Entry posted:Not sure if it matters one way or the other if both channels run into the corner, but on all my doors the top piece runs the full width and the channels for the side pieces stop just short of the top. Hmm, alright. I was hoping there was a way that sealed a bit better since I've got gaps as-is.
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Aug 27, 2020 21:59
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Motronic posted:
Cam I believe. I imagine you just need to buy a new lock, the cheapest one will have the parts.
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Aug 27, 2020 22:34
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Alternatively tailpiece.
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Aug 27, 2020 23:13
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Should I get this product for lubricating interior house door hinges? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Advanced-Dry-Lube-with-Teflon-16-TDL/202532762 If not, what should I buy?
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Aug 27, 2020 23:43
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I've used graphite lubricant, something like this stuff (just a random product I grabbed). You don't need 9.3oz, holy crap. A little tube is plenty.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:09
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I tried the dry lube before on a hinge and it just resulted in a big mess of powder everywhere, worked great for CO2 powered race cars, not so great for the hinge. How did you not get it everywhere when applying?
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Aug 28, 2020 00:21
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Stangy yet delightful posted:Should I get this product for lubricating interior house door hinges? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Advanced-Dry-Lube-with-Teflon-16-TDL/202532762 That stuff works for me and doesn’t attract a ton of dirt.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:25
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DIY secret santa maybe?
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Aug 28, 2020 00:36
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tangy yet delightful posted:I tried the dry lube before on a hinge and it just resulted in a big mess of powder everywhere, worked great for CO2 powered race cars, not so great for the hinge. How did you not get it everywhere when applying? Hold a damp tissue around the injection site to catch the overflow. Some is gonna fly free, that's just a fact of life.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:50
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H110Hawk posted:Cam I believe. I imagine you just need to buy a new lock, the cheapest one will have the parts. Nevets posted:Alternatively tailpiece. Awesome, thank you. That was the language I needed. I couldn't find just the tailpiece but I did find a knockoff schlage cylinder and tailpiece on amazon for $12. Good enough! Thanks again.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:50
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Remulak posted:What's the problem with self-rekeying? I bought one of those the other day and it matched my existing key in seconds, I thought it was pretty slick. Slick, but terrible. FWIW a local locksmith charged me $10 to rekey a lock and threw in a bunch of keys for free. I also bought a padlock that takes my house key, which is pretty nifty!
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Aug 28, 2020 02:49
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My gas oven has been hearing up very slowly lately - I turned it on to make dinner tonight, and after 15 minutes or so it was warm inside, but I could still comfortably touch the inside with my hand. Any ideas on what to check?
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Aug 28, 2020 02:52
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Check that the burner isn't full of crud.
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Aug 28, 2020 14:25
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devicenull posted:Slick, but terrible. FWIW a local locksmith charged me $10 to rekey a lock and threw in a bunch of keys for free. If you can't find a reasonably priced local locksmith you also might be able to rekey it yourself. I replaced the cylinders in my side & rear door mortise locks with matching ones but couldn't find a replacement sized correctly for the front door deadbolt. A $25 kit from ebay and I was able to change the pins to fit my new key.
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Aug 28, 2020 15:28
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tangy yet delightful posted:Should I get this product for lubricating interior house door hinges? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Blaster-9-3-oz-Advanced-Dry-Lube-with-Teflon-16-TDL/202532762 I've never had luck blasting them externally. I just pop one pin out at a time and dunk it in some generic automotive grease, wipe the excess, and slide it back in.
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Aug 28, 2020 15:44
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opengl128 posted:I've never had luck blasting them externally. I just pop one pin out at a time and dunk it in some generic automotive grease, wipe the excess, and slide it back in. Is there anything wrong with my method of just spraying WD-40 on it?
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Aug 28, 2020 15:51
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Bioshuffle posted:Is there anything wrong with my method of just spraying WD-40 on it? You're not going to damage the hinge, no. It'll pick up atmospheric dust and get kinda cruddy faster than if you take it apart and apply a dry lube like graphite, but it's also 10000x easier to just spray it with something. I use a teflon based spray on my door hinges because it doesn't require dismantling anything and it lasts a few years before it starts squeaking again.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:08
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Is there a brand of home locks/deadbolts/door knobs that doesn’t 100% suck?
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Aug 28, 2020 16:18
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KKKLIP ART posted:Is there a brand of home locks/deadbolts/door knobs that doesn’t 100% suck? What is your goal? What is your problem statement? Why won't it be met with: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kwikset-660-Satin-KW1-Satin-Chrome-Single-Cylinder-Deadbolt/1002468974
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Aug 28, 2020 17:10
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H110Hawk posted:What is your goal? What is your problem statement? Why won't it be met with: I don't know what their particular complaint might be, but I'm interested in an answer to this as well. Particularly for inside hardware. Nearly everything I've ever had are rattly garbage.
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Aug 28, 2020 17:58
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If you want something nicer than kwikset that isn't solved by properly cleaning (decrud, degrease, deoil) and lubricating your locks (dry graphite) then go up a something by Schlage or Yale that isn't patented. They will have tolerance (at all...) and should get you smoother action. Basically you'll want to buy it from a locksmith.
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Aug 28, 2020 18:15
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H110Hawk posted:If you want something nicer than kwikset that isn't solved by properly cleaning (decrud, degrease, deoil) and lubricating your locks (dry graphite) then go up a something by Schlage or Yale that isn't patented. They will have tolerance (at all...) and should get you smoother action. Basically you'll want to buy it from a locksmith. Figured that might be the case. I had the local locksmiths swap out all of the Kwikset deadbolts with Schlage when I moved into this place. The handles were already Schlage.......so you needed two different keys to get into any of the doors? (POs are always idiots). I'm gonna guess the inside handles are all Kwiksets, or something of that general quality.
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Aug 28, 2020 18:20
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Motronic posted:Figured that might be the case. I had the local locksmiths swap out all of the Kwikset deadbolts with Schlage when I moved into this place. The handles were already Schlage.......so you needed two different keys to get into any of the doors? (POs are always idiots). People love their false sense of security. Don't lock your handle, just the deadbolt. If you do lock it, spend the time to make sure the latch fully engages the strike plate, that your strike plate is installed correctly, and that your lock has a properly functioning deadlock plunger thing. Basically there should be 0 exposed tapered part of the latch when the door is closed, and the deadlock plunger should be depressed by the strike plate preventing it from retracting at all without moving the handle. This is some random google result that had pictures: https://www.go-rbcs.com/articles/the-deadlocking-plunger-weakness Interior door hardware (as in, handles on interior-only doors) is generally garbage. Also you can put any properly fitting core into whatever lock you want. So your handles can be one brand and cylinders another. You just need the keyway to match. Fun fact you can convert KW1 keys to basic Schlage keys (I don't know the model) with a quick grind on the keyway portion to change the angle from / to \. Don't ask me why I know this. If you find some good hardware that's reasonably priced I'm interested to hear, ours is generally fine but it would be nice to know for when it needs replacing. I've been meaning to disassemble our back door's handle for years now. It was never installed right and jams up something fierce about half the time you turn it. A good hard jerk on the handle tends to undo it but there is something metal-on-metal wearing down in the cylinder.
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Aug 28, 2020 18:50
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The exterior hardware on my french doors to the lanai, which are 15 months old, are rusted. What can I do to fix that? Do I need to replace them already (hinges, handle, deadbolt), or is there a trick to remove rust? I live in Central Florida so it shouldn't be due to ocean salt. I did try some WD-40 and aluminum foil, but all that did was destroy the paint around the deadbolt.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:08
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KKKLIP ART posted:Is there a brand of home locks/deadbolts/door knobs that doesn’t 100% suck? How much do you want to spend? We went with all Emtek hardware - it's *not* cheap (we paid $150 per interior door set, and $300 for the front door lock/handle) - but it looks and feels *nice*. The deadbolts use standard Schlage SC1 keyways, so it's not any more secure then standard off the shelf stuff. devicenull fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Aug 29, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2020 03:57
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H110Hawk posted:What is your goal? What is your problem statement? Why won't it be met with: New house, exterior knobs are a mishmash of stuff that is like a push button lock, double cylinder deadbolts, and just want to have nice hardware and matching new keys on all our outside doors.
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Aug 29, 2020 18:11
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Reporting back about my garage door opener replacement project. It was decided to go with a genie opener over a chamberlain, thing finally showed up today, I ended up having to make a few adjustments that took some time. On the header that connects the rail track to the front wall of the garage I kept the previous slightly wider bracket since the holes for the lag bolts on the new one were just slightly outside of the old holes and I didn't want to drill new ones just to the outside and possibly compromise the structure and have the thing pull out of the stud. Put the rail in there and used some steel washers as shims to get it centered up. Also had to move the slotted angle iron bracket that holds the motor unit around 6 inches towards the door as the new rail track was shorter than the old one. Luckily the joists in the ceiling are oriented towards the front and back of the garage and not side to side so it was just a matter of confirming they were there with a stud finder and drilling new holes. Was able to use the old wiring for the sensors and opener on the wall, and the whole thing seems to work like a charm. I was even able to reuse the old keypad outside by reprogramming it to the second door that didn't previously have a pad on the outside. Took a bit longer than I expected but  , feel slightly paranoid that I missed something stupid but I think that's more because it was my first time doing this type of project.e: some images for clarification on wtf i'm talking about, describing stuff is hard.   Stanky Bean fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 05:26
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Also I know usually people put a 2x4 piece up for the header, I'm assuming to spread the force of bolting the rail into the wall and keep the drywall from compressing as seen in that first image, but I didn't as that is how it was before and the way it's been since the place was built. So cue everyone telling me I majorly should have done that I guess. e: lol I was a bit cranky last night as I couldn't sleep and was fretting. Stanky Bean fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Aug 30, 2020 |
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Aug 30, 2020 08:31
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Chef Boyardeez Nuts posted:Previous owner wanted to ensure that a laundry stand mount persisted through the heat death of the universe: Update to a post from page 510 about a weekend project that became my summer project. I finally managed to dig below the massive concrete slab to find what I thought were three pieces of rebar holding the thing together.  Now it turns out they were pipes of some sort. Now I'm not sure if I should cap them before filling in the hole. They aren't supply lines and I don't *think* they're on the sewer line. The house predates modern plumbing so I wonder if I found an old well pump or something. Edit: the water isn't coming from the pipesits from me blasting the dirt off my large adult concrete slab son.
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Aug 31, 2020 02:12
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I had a moment of panic when I saw the water on the ground next to the cut pipes. The insides of the pipes looks pristine which would not be the case if they were used for any length of time as water pipes. My guess is they were just stuck in there because the PO hated you and wanted you to suffer.
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Aug 31, 2020 02:58
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I also had a terrifying thought after I confirmed it wasn't rebar and went to make sure my gas meter wasn't spinning. I'm pretty sure there's a old foundation corpse under there, I found some more concrete and brick work nearby.
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Aug 31, 2020 03:28
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All of this deadbolt talk is very timely. I've had a deadbolt keyboard that's Kwikset for about 15 years or so. It's finally broke down on me and I'm looking to replace it. What's a good balance of security (I'm in a very low crime area, the door is in my garage, so not overly concerned with top notch) and neat new features? I have an Insteon home automation as well as we all have iOS so Homekit can be used, but ultimately as long as it has a keypad that's the bare minimum requirements as we hate keys. Would be nice to be able to lock the house when the kids forget to do so, but they usually also leave the door wide loving open so there's no fix for that. Any thoughts on this? I see Shlage makes one that is not unreasonably priced. Thanks in advance! https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Deadbolt-Century-CEN-622/dp/B00YUPDV34/ref=sr_1_1?tag=imoreb-20&ascsubtag=UUimUdUnU57260YYwYg&th=1
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Aug 31, 2020 15:39
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TraderStav posted:All of this deadbolt talk is very timely. I've had a deadbolt keyboard that's Kwikset for about 15 years or so. It's finally broke down on me and I'm looking to replace it. What's a good balance of security (I'm in a very low crime area, the door is in my garage, so not overly concerned with top notch) and neat new features? I have a couple of very similar ones (with zwave) hooked up to home assistant and they work fine. Your striker plate needs to be dead on or they eat batteries. On security.....who knows? I don't really count on even traditional deadbolts to be more than a deterrent consider like....windows and stuff exist. The alarm system is the closest thing to "security", and obviously that's just reactive.
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Aug 31, 2020 16:01
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TraderStav posted:I have an Insteon home automation as well as we all have iOS so Homekit can be used, but ultimately as long as it has a keypad that's the bare minimum requirements as we hate keys. Would be nice to be able to lock the house when the kids forget to do so, but they usually also leave the door wide loving open so there's no fix for that. You could put a hydraulic door closer on it so it shuts itself.
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Aug 31, 2020 16:57
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full-blown industrial access control with 2fa credentials at every door and badge-in/badge-out
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Aug 31, 2020 17:04
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So I have a weird issue. I have a floor joist that is super high. I've done some measuring and checking with levels and it appears that the post that was installed under it was too high. It's under the kitchen, and there's a hump in the floor almost the entire length of the joist, although on the wall end it's a not too bad. It's about 1/2" hump for most of it. It's like this:  And here's a picture, standing under the kitchen so the joist that is bad is labeled in red. The orange beams are just structure for a staircase above but they also tilt up. The other boards and stuff are just framing for a small closet, I can rip them down when I do it so the floor doesn't settle on them.  The beam marked in red and orange slope upwards towards that jack, 1/2 high on the jack side than the exterior wall. Maybe the joist is crowned, but I put a long level on it and it's not too bad. Maybe it's a little thicker in in the center (like 1/8" inch) but the main issue is that it clearly slopes up towards the jack. I think I just need to jack up the beams around that post, remove it, and then replace it with a 1/2 shorter jack post. Unfortunately that post is just a solid steel tube, so I don't think I can shorten it. But it's not bolted into the floor or anything, so I can just pull it out and stick an adjustable jack in. I don't think it's a big deal, I'll probably call a couple contractors to give me some advice, but I think it's something can tackle on my own.
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Aug 31, 2020 17:33
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The surface light on my over-the-stove microwave burnt out and I replaced it with an LED one. When the light is 'off' the LED is still on, but very very dim. 1) Is this ok? 2) I assume that even with an incandescent light there was power going to the socket, but not enough to light the incandescent. Seems like either was the light socket would be an energy vampire?
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Aug 31, 2020 21:01
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The Slack Lagoon posted:The surface light on my over-the-stove microwave burnt out and I replaced it with an LED one. When the light is 'off' the LED is still on, but very very dim. The Slack Lagoon posted:2) I assume that even with an incandescent light there was power going to the socket, but not enough to light the incandescent. Seems like either was the light socket would be an energy vampire? Maybe and maybe not. Leakage at AC can be capacitive or resistive. Capacitive leakage to an incandescent bulb would probably lead to very little power transfer because the filament does not get a chance to heat up. All of the energy stored in the capacitor is then returned on the negative going side of the cycle. In this case the LED consumes more energy when it's off because it rectifies that AC leakage and does not have to warm up first.
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Aug 31, 2020 22:22
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Think that might be the issue - microwave light has a high and low, and the bulb is non-dimming. I'll try one that's dimmable. I know I could use a regular 40w incandescent but that would literally use more energy than the rest of the bulbs we have on at night combined, and we have that bulb on pretty frequently
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Sep 1, 2020 00:49
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Not fixing clothes qualifies for this thread, but: Years and years ago, I bought a pair of jika-tabi in Japan, that I wore quite a bit. Eventually, a hole formed in the heel, and so I chucked them out. Not too long ago, I thought "gently caress it, I'll order another pair" and bought a pair online that came from Japan. After like a month or two, I got a hole in the heel again, in nearly the exact same spot.  Is there any way I can repair it? And possible reinforce it to stop it happening again? I notice that on this model it actually had the canvas stitched to the sole. You can see in the photo that the stitching has snapped - you can see the holes in the rubber of the sole. Could it be as simple as restitching, with more or thicker thread?...
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Sep 1, 2020 02:16
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