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kimbo305 posted:How loose were they? How many fractions of a turn did you have to tighten them? You shouldn't have to do it, but this might be a situation to use some loctite. I didn't keep track this time, but I'll make a note to do so if they loosen again
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Aug 27, 2020 21:33
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Ciaphas posted:It took an hour and a lot of swearing but I got my (mechanical) disc brakes all dialed in the other day. It's nice to be able to stop on command again Almost never. Occasionally I have to adjust a bit for pad wear, which takes maybe 5 minutes? BB7s.
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Aug 27, 2020 23:33
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e.pilot posted:mech discs should be immediately replaced with TRP HY/RDs I've got mechanical discs and I can lock them up with no problem but my hands get loving tired on long downhills. I'm definitely looking to upgrade, or take steroids.
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Aug 28, 2020 02:17
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Hmph, wonder if this is another manifestation of the cheap hardware problems I ran into with this bike before. I've had to tweak em three or four times in the few months I've had it. I did not think it would be relatively expensive for a reeeassooonnnn 
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Aug 28, 2020 02:53
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Do any of you have much experience with the yokozuna brakes vs hyrd? The being able to dial in the bite seems like something I would appreciate more than self adjusting for pad wear.
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Aug 28, 2020 02:56
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FogHelmut posted:I've got mechanical discs and I can lock them up with no problem but my hands get loving tired on long downhills. I'm definitely looking to upgrade, or take steroids. being able to lock up brakes says nothing of required lever force and modulation, if that’s your criteria of good brakes then rim brakes are just fine too
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Aug 28, 2020 03:11
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CopperHound posted:Do any of you have much experience with the yokozuna brakes vs hyrd? The being able to dial in the bite seems like something I would appreciate more than self adjusting for pad wear. The pad gap with Hy/Rd is actually pretty good. You can purposely choke up the brake arm a bit, though TRPsays to not do that, and it may keep the self adjusting from fully working. The Yokozunas are a tiny bit mushier feeling, and I only feel entitled to say that because both are supposed to be self contained units, and I’m running similar compressionless housing. I would get whichever is cheaper — the performance is close.
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Aug 28, 2020 03:15
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if you choke up HY/RDs a bunch they will not adjust, but it takes a long time to manifest itself as a problem, and all you have to do to reset it is adjust it back to the recommended amount and pump it a few times, then set it how you’d like
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Aug 28, 2020 03:32
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e.pilot posted:being able to lock up brakes says nothing of required lever force and modulation, if that’s your criteria of good brakes then rim brakes are just fine too They don't lack stopping power is what I'm saying. And yes I am saying my hands get tired from modulating the lever with force for long durations.
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Aug 28, 2020 03:52
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e.pilot posted:mech discs should be immediately replaced with TRP HY/RDs 
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Aug 28, 2020 06:09
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eSporks posted:I think you mean trp spyke/spyre. 
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Aug 28, 2020 06:19
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Spyre is one of those things that looks like it should be better on paper but isn’t really an improvement in performance over conventional mech disc brakes
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Aug 28, 2020 06:51
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Spyres would be infinitely better if they had a way to lock the piston adjustment in place like with BB7s or a set screw or something. They rely only on threadlocker, which is inadequate. The Spykes on my fatbike have never needed adjusting other than for pad wear, despite being the same design but for mountain bike levers. I'm guessing it's because on that bike I'm not going fast enough for things to heat up to the point where the threadlocker melts. A high heat threadlocker that doesn't need a torch to loosen like Rocksett would probably fix the issue, but I can't find it in Canada for a reasonable price.
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Aug 28, 2020 07:07
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I've got Spyres! How does the Hy/Rd compare to a full hydraulic setup? I am aware I am quickly approaching the "should have bought the more expensive bike in the first place" zone.
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Aug 28, 2020 07:12
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I had Spyres with normal cable housing and found them incredibly weak. I’ve read multiple reports that you have to run them with compressionless housing to get the most out of them. Hy/Rds and Yokozunas are probably 75% as strong, in that pulling a lever with the same hand force produces 75% as much braking force. And a decently set up BB7 is maybe 50%.
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Aug 28, 2020 10:49
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e.pilot posted:mech discs should be immediately replaced with TRP HY/RDs FogHelmut posted:How does the Hy/Rd compare to a full hydraulic setup? evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 11:26 on Aug 28, 2020 |
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Aug 28, 2020 11:11
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eSporks posted:I think you mean trp spyke/spyre. How could you possibly be so wrong
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Aug 28, 2020 12:24
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FogHelmut posted:I've got Spyres! If you were building up a bike I wouldn’t do HY/RD over a full hydro setup, but if you’ve got mech disc already, the cost and ease of installing HY/RD is 100% worth it. They’re not quite as good as full hydro, but drat if they aren’t close, especially for the price.
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Aug 28, 2020 15:52
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Well my mechanical disks are very adequate for the road, but I'm taking my gravel bike down single tracks and stuff where I should really be on a mountain bike, and there have been times where I thought my hands were going to fail. I'm running Tiagra which is fine, and the full Tiagra hydro levers, lines, calipers is about $240 on eBay vs the Hy/Rd at about $100 less. Hy/Rd is almost zero effort to install, whereas the full setup will allow me to be sequestered to the garage for a couple hours. Tough choice.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:47
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e.pilot posted:If you were building up a bike I wouldn’t do HY/RD over a full hydro setup, but if you’ve got mech disc already, the cost and ease of installing HY/RD is 100% worth it. They’re not quite as good as full hydro, but drat if they aren’t close, especially for the price. I dunno. Personally if I have reasonably functioning mechanical discs, I'm not gonna spend $150 (plus new compressionless housing) to swap to something that is only slightly better. I'd rather spend $200-$350 (depending on what group you're matching to - apex 1x is hella cheap, 105 2x is a bit spendy but still quite reasonable) and go all the way.
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Aug 28, 2020 16:48
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bicievino posted:I dunno. Personally if I have reasonably functioning mechanical discs, I'm not gonna spend $150 (plus new compressionless housing) to swap to something that is only slightly better. I'd rather spend $200-$350 (depending on what group you're matching to - apex 1x is hella cheap, 105 2x is a bit spendy but still quite reasonable) and go all the way. I mostly agree but it’s also a lot more effort to install a full hydro setup. Installing hydro you’d need to run hoses, put ends on the hoses, get brake fluid and bleed kit, bleed the brakes, and install levers and re-wrap the bars. It’s a lot more daunting of a task, especially if you’ve never done it before. Installing HY/RD is literally 6 bolts, nothing to bleed, and hardly anything to adjust. The only extra parts you might need are some new brake cables if the old mech cables are too short. For sure they’re a compromise but they’re still vastly better than mech disc, for the cost of a nice set of tires you can massively improve brake modulation, effort, and feel.
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Aug 28, 2020 17:26
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Eh, I guess it's more a question of how bad the mech discs are. I've only ever used BB7s (very frustrating, would spend any amount to replace) and Spyres (annoying for the reasons mentioned upthread, but totally functional). I didn't find HY/RDs to be dramatically better than Spyres. Some, but not enough to justify the weird midspot of price for me.
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Aug 28, 2020 17:33
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I went from Spyres to HY/RD on my last road bike and found the difference in feel to be substantial. 🤷🏼♀️ I still have HY/RD on my commuter/tourer, as there’s not really a good way to get hydro with an alfine on drop bars.
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Aug 28, 2020 18:03
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e.pilot posted:alfine on drop bars.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:53
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CopperHound posted:Are you doing microshift or di2? I did microshift for a little while but absolutely hated the levers, now I have an IRD bar end and TRP SS levers and it’s perfect.
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Aug 28, 2020 19:55
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e.pilot posted:I did microshift for a little while but absolutely hated the levers, now I have an IRD bar end and TRP SS levers and it’s perfect. The TRP Hylex? The drillium silvers are dreamy
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Aug 28, 2020 20:11
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:The TRP Hylex? The drillium silvers are dreamy not the drillium but they are silver  along with the silver bar end and silver HY/RDs 
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Aug 28, 2020 20:16
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bicievino posted:I dunno. Personally if I have reasonably functioning mechanical discs, I'm not gonna spend $150 (plus new compressionless housing) to swap to something that is only slightly better. I'd rather spend $200-$350 (depending on what group you're matching to - apex 1x is hella cheap, 105 2x is a bit spendy but still quite reasonable) and go all the way.
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Aug 28, 2020 21:06
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What is a hy/rd getting you? Other than a more complicated brake. The main advantage of hydro is the lack of housing compression followed by self centering pads. Hy/rd does nothing for the former, and spyre does just fine for the latter. Hy/rd is solar powered flashlight.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:09
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eSporks posted:What is a hy/rd getting you? Other than a more complicated brake. The main advantage of hydro is the lack of housing compression followed by self centering pads. Hy/rd does nothing for the former, and spyre does just fine for the latter. Hand feel my dude.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:19
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eSporks posted:What is a hy/rd getting you? Other than a more complicated brake. The main advantage of hydro is the lack of housing compression followed by self centering pads. Hy/rd does nothing for the former, and spyre does just fine for the latter. Self adjusting pads, better modulation, more progressive feel, they’re self contained and won’t require any maintenance or adjustment other than putting new pads in occasionally. Literally put them on and forget about them and have better feeling brakes for the cost of a nice pair of tires.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:19
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e.pilot posted:Self adjusting pads, better modulation, more progressive feel, they’re self contained and won’t require any maintenance or adjustment other than putting new pads in occasionally. Literally put them on and forget about them and have better feeling brakes for the cost of a nice pair of tires.
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Aug 28, 2020 23:51
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Crumps Brother posted:You never have to bleed them? How does that work? They’re self contained and as long as you never open them shouldn’t require bleeding, if they need bleeding something is likely broken or they’ve been opened. Fluid replacement eventually every few years sure, but that’s still way less fiddling than mech discs. 
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Aug 29, 2020 00:05
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e.pilot posted:not the drillium but they are silver When I asked TRP about lever compatibility /w the HY/RDs, they told me to use RL520 long pull levers. Good to know the RRL levers work
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Aug 29, 2020 04:51
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You all have a type/brand of lube to recommend? My current bottle of wet lube is running out and I'll need to get more soon. Normally I would be riding in pretty rainy conditions very frequently. Right now due to COVID it's mostly just dry roads and occasional mud or lots of mud for my gravel bike.
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Aug 31, 2020 19:22
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Rock and Roll Gold, always and forever. It's reputation as "King of Lubes" is well-deserved.
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Aug 31, 2020 21:17
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Morgan Blue Race Oil in the summer and Morgan Blue Rolls Pro in the winter. The rolls pro will go black / look gross quickly but lasts a long time even when getting a bit wet, and won't completely wash out as easily as some in heavy rain
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Aug 31, 2020 23:51
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I wax my chain in a double boiler like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAyjdmbm0CY But I make my own wax like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHr9znwpwmQ If you are lazy, you can just buy something like https://moltenspeedwax.com/collections/molten-speed-wax and put it in a pot inside a pan of boiling water for a couple minutes. I like waxing my chain cuz it has lower friction and is cleaner(I.E. my bike doesn't get poo poo dirty): https://www.cyclingweekly.com/news/latest-news/is-a-waxed-chain-worth-it-321497
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Sep 1, 2020 23:05
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Pooper Hero posted:I wax my chain in a double boiler like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAyjdmbm0CY
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Sep 1, 2020 23:12
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Pooper Hero posted:I wax my chain in a double boiler like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fAyjdmbm0CY OzCycle is an idiot and uses roughly 10x too much PTFE. You can actually just use straight food grade paraffin and the performance will be within <1W of wax with any amount of lubricious micronized solids. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 23:31 on Sep 1, 2020 |
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Sep 1, 2020 23:26
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